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| Insider's guide to Abidjan: 'We enjoy city life, regardless of war or crisis' | Insider's guide to Abidjan: 'We enjoy city life, regardless of war or crisis' |
| (about 7 hours later) | |
| In five words | In five words |
| Constant construction, melting pot, Coupé-décalé | Constant construction, melting pot, Coupé-décalé |
| Sound of the city | Sound of the city |
| In Abidjan, time is money. Drivers who wait outside our stations want to fill their cars with passengers, and the young men nicknamed “Gnamgbro” are tasked with finding them. They sit with their heads out the windows, shouting the names of destinations to passers-by. In the recording, you can hear one of them shouting “Adjamé renault, Adjamé liberté 200” (the destination and the price). | In Abidjan, time is money. Drivers who wait outside our stations want to fill their cars with passengers, and the young men nicknamed “Gnamgbro” are tasked with finding them. They sit with their heads out the windows, shouting the names of destinations to passers-by. In the recording, you can hear one of them shouting “Adjamé renault, Adjamé liberté 200” (the destination and the price). |
| Best building | Best building |
| St Paul’s Cathedral is a symbolic place in Abidjan, not just for religious reasons, but because of its design. It was built in 1985, 25 years after independence from France, and designed by Italian architect Aldo Spirito. Many artistic representations of our city use the cathedral. | |
| How green is your city? | How green is your city? |
| Since 2014, our legislation has forbidden the use of plastic bags and smoking in public places. But we have a big problem with how to manage the garbage in the city, and our lagoon is really polluted. The government are working on it, but we do not yet have a monthly clean-up day. Many people also cycle in Abidjan, but it is not to reduce carbon emissions – it’s just a practical way to get around. | Since 2014, our legislation has forbidden the use of plastic bags and smoking in public places. But we have a big problem with how to manage the garbage in the city, and our lagoon is really polluted. The government are working on it, but we do not yet have a monthly clean-up day. Many people also cycle in Abidjan, but it is not to reduce carbon emissions – it’s just a practical way to get around. |
| Best local artist | Best local artist |
| Loza Maléombho is a young Ivorian designer (born in Brazil), who recently returned to live and work in Abidjan, where she has opened up a showroom in the city’s business district. Her brand has been described as a fusion between traditional cultures and sub-cultures, and contemporary fashion. After working with H&M, one of her creations appeared in Beyoncé’s recent music video. | Loza Maléombho is a young Ivorian designer (born in Brazil), who recently returned to live and work in Abidjan, where she has opened up a showroom in the city’s business district. Her brand has been described as a fusion between traditional cultures and sub-cultures, and contemporary fashion. After working with H&M, one of her creations appeared in Beyoncé’s recent music video. |
| Biggest controversy | Biggest controversy |
| Since 2010, the post-electoral crisis has given birth to a debate between two conflicting groups: supporters of Laurent Gbagbo – our country’s former president, who was arrested in 2011 for war crimes – and supporters of Alassane Ouattara, our current president. Gbagbo’s trial at the International Criminal Court commenced earlier this year; it is known as a “trial of shame” by one group, and “trial of justice” by the other. | Since 2010, the post-electoral crisis has given birth to a debate between two conflicting groups: supporters of Laurent Gbagbo – our country’s former president, who was arrested in 2011 for war crimes – and supporters of Alassane Ouattara, our current president. Gbagbo’s trial at the International Criminal Court commenced earlier this year; it is known as a “trial of shame” by one group, and “trial of justice” by the other. |
| The look on the street | The look on the street |
| Abidjan’s look is urban, relaxed and more recently, “Afro chic”. Regardless of standard of living, people in the city are inspired by French and American trends, but now this wave has returned to the source and people like to infuse their style with African fabrics, jewels and pearls. | Abidjan’s look is urban, relaxed and more recently, “Afro chic”. Regardless of standard of living, people in the city are inspired by French and American trends, but now this wave has returned to the source and people like to infuse their style with African fabrics, jewels and pearls. |
| Most under-rated location | Most under-rated location |
| Our natural parks deserve some recognition. At the centre of town, the forest of Banco is the lungs of Abidjan, and a nice place to soak up nature. However, it doesn’t interest people, and the city’s residents rarely visit. It could be something to do with the fact that the place is considered the dangerous headquarters of criminals … | Our natural parks deserve some recognition. At the centre of town, the forest of Banco is the lungs of Abidjan, and a nice place to soak up nature. However, it doesn’t interest people, and the city’s residents rarely visit. It could be something to do with the fact that the place is considered the dangerous headquarters of criminals … |
| Best cultural Instagram | Best cultural Instagram |
| Abidjan Places is one of my favourite Instagram accounts. It shares images from the city’s inhabitants, and paints a colourful picture of city life. | Abidjan Places is one of my favourite Instagram accounts. It shares images from the city’s inhabitants, and paints a colourful picture of city life. |
| Moment in history | Moment in history |
| When we qualified for the World Cup for the first time in 2006. The country needed this qualification; it united Ivorians under difficult circumstances after the war in 2002. | When we qualified for the World Cup for the first time in 2006. The country needed this qualification; it united Ivorians under difficult circumstances after the war in 2002. |
| Worst building | Worst building |
| Sadly, this would have to be La Pyramide. In spite of its interesting design – it was constructed to bring the feel of an African market into an urban setting – the building is old and dirty. Today it has deteriorated, and is inhabited by illegal tenants, many of whom are homeless. | Sadly, this would have to be La Pyramide. In spite of its interesting design – it was constructed to bring the feel of an African market into an urban setting – the building is old and dirty. Today it has deteriorated, and is inhabited by illegal tenants, many of whom are homeless. |
| What your city does better than anywhere else | What your city does better than anywhere else |
| We like to enjoy life in Abidjan, regardless of the situation in our city and country – be it war or political crisis | We like to enjoy life in Abidjan, regardless of the situation in our city and country – be it war or political crisis |
| Our food always satisfies foreigners, and it’s diverse like our ethnic tribes – sweet, a little spiced and colourful. | Our food always satisfies foreigners, and it’s diverse like our ethnic tribes – sweet, a little spiced and colourful. |
| In Abidjan, the best places to buy food are the street stalls, where it’s inexpensive, and there is always a spot nearby to buy a refreshing drink. At the end of the day, people like to get together to chat and eat while listening to music in the streets. We like to enjoy life in Abidjan, regardless of the situation in our city and country – be it war or political crisis. | In Abidjan, the best places to buy food are the street stalls, where it’s inexpensive, and there is always a spot nearby to buy a refreshing drink. At the end of the day, people like to get together to chat and eat while listening to music in the streets. We like to enjoy life in Abidjan, regardless of the situation in our city and country – be it war or political crisis. |
| Homegrown talent | Homegrown talent |
| Zouglou Makers are a group of men who play a style of music known as Zouglou, which is typical to Abidjan. You can catch them live in many spots around town, mainly in the suburb of Yopougon. | Zouglou Makers are a group of men who play a style of music known as Zouglou, which is typical to Abidjan. You can catch them live in many spots around town, mainly in the suburb of Yopougon. |
| Top insider’s tip | Top insider’s tip |
| It’s obligatory to try our aforementioned street food if you’re in the city. Garba is a personal favourite. The dish is semolina made of manioc (a tuberous tree root) with fried tuna – simple and delicious. | It’s obligatory to try our aforementioned street food if you’re in the city. Garba is a personal favourite. The dish is semolina made of manioc (a tuberous tree root) with fried tuna – simple and delicious. |
| Who to follow | Who to follow |
| Joana Choumali | Joana Choumali |
| Côte d’Ivoire tourism | Côte d’Ivoire tourism |
| Mignardise and Co (for nice places to eat!) | Mignardise and Co (for nice places to eat!) |
| AbidjanByStyle | AbidjanByStyle |
| From me | From me |
| Orphelie Thalmas writes the Rhythmes d’Afrique blog, which focuses on art and culture in Africa, and recently won Best Blogger in Côte d’Ivoire. You can follow her on Instagram and Twitter. | Orphelie Thalmas writes the Rhythmes d’Afrique blog, which focuses on art and culture in Africa, and recently won Best Blogger in Côte d’Ivoire. You can follow her on Instagram and Twitter. |
| This video, made by Orphelie, shows Abidjan’s two faces. At the beginning, you will see her saying “ici c’est Babi” (“here is Babi”) – a nickname for Abidjan. The music is by DJ Leo, who plays the national Coupé Décalé music. | This video, made by Orphelie, shows Abidjan’s two faces. At the beginning, you will see her saying “ici c’est Babi” (“here is Babi”) – a nickname for Abidjan. The music is by DJ Leo, who plays the national Coupé Décalé music. |
| Follow Guardian Cities on Twitter and Facebook and join the discussion | Follow Guardian Cities on Twitter and Facebook and join the discussion |
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