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Red legs flash over the green strand Red legs flash over the green strand
(6 days later)
Harlech, Gwynedd Redshank circle above Ynys while Roma samphire pickers search the saltings
Jim Perrin
Sat 2 Sep 2017 05.30 BST
Last modified on Wed 14 Feb 2018 17.08 GMT
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A flight of redshank, wings elegantly barred and bent, clatter and yelp out of a draining channel as I circle Glastraeth, the “green strand” at the mouth of the river Dwyryd, which was once a crucial Welsh wintering ground for curlews, pintails and geese.A flight of redshank, wings elegantly barred and bent, clatter and yelp out of a draining channel as I circle Glastraeth, the “green strand” at the mouth of the river Dwyryd, which was once a crucial Welsh wintering ground for curlews, pintails and geese.
The redshank circle round, calls modulating to a plaintive diminuendo, and descend towards the reed-fringed former mill pool at Ynys.The redshank circle round, calls modulating to a plaintive diminuendo, and descend towards the reed-fringed former mill pool at Ynys.
I trail after them, noting as I go four egrets feeding across the saltings, wondering if they now share the heronry in the lee of Harlech castle.I trail after them, noting as I go four egrets feeding across the saltings, wondering if they now share the heronry in the lee of Harlech castle.
From the footbridge over the river that drains the fine northern lakes of the Rhinogydd, I glimpse a flash of colour on a sandbank downstream.From the footbridge over the river that drains the fine northern lakes of the Rhinogydd, I glimpse a flash of colour on a sandbank downstream.
Focusing the glass, what leaps into view is the ruddy, wind-ruffled, punk hairstyle of a red-breasted merganser. Backlit by the lowering sun it becomes a glorious vibrant halo, visionary and intensely strange. I wander close, interposing tufts of reeds for concealment.Focusing the glass, what leaps into view is the ruddy, wind-ruffled, punk hairstyle of a red-breasted merganser. Backlit by the lowering sun it becomes a glorious vibrant halo, visionary and intensely strange. I wander close, interposing tufts of reeds for concealment.
There are three of the birds – females, pearly flanked, crested heads glowing among the muted sea-marsh tints. Mergansers are reliable presences on the estuary from this time of year onwards.There are three of the birds – females, pearly flanked, crested heads glowing among the muted sea-marsh tints. Mergansers are reliable presences on the estuary from this time of year onwards.
They see me and take to the water, paddling quietly upstream in queenly convoy.They see me and take to the water, paddling quietly upstream in queenly convoy.
Beyond Llechollwyn, where the saltings curve round to merge into Morfa Harlech nature reserve, I spot a group of stooping figures. I sally over and recognise a woman among them as someone I’d once met at the house of Mrs Lock, the Roma fortune teller on Anglesey.Beyond Llechollwyn, where the saltings curve round to merge into Morfa Harlech nature reserve, I spot a group of stooping figures. I sally over and recognise a woman among them as someone I’d once met at the house of Mrs Lock, the Roma fortune teller on Anglesey.
To reassure them of good intent I drop into my greeting a few words conned years ago from George Borrow’s book Romano Lavo-Lil. We talk of the samphire they are gathering. One of the men hands me a sprig, carefully pinched off rather than uprooted, and I savour its sharp salt tang. This is rock samphire, a member of the carrot family, now a much-prized delicacy with which metro-foodies garnish their salt-marsh lamb.To reassure them of good intent I drop into my greeting a few words conned years ago from George Borrow’s book Romano Lavo-Lil. We talk of the samphire they are gathering. One of the men hands me a sprig, carefully pinched off rather than uprooted, and I savour its sharp salt tang. This is rock samphire, a member of the carrot family, now a much-prized delicacy with which metro-foodies garnish their salt-marsh lamb.
Slim pickings here, so I tell the Roma family of an unexpected source on the farther shore, and we part with goodwill on both sides.Slim pickings here, so I tell the Roma family of an unexpected source on the farther shore, and we part with goodwill on both sides.
CoastlinesCoastlines
Country diaryCountry diary
BirdsBirds
Roma, Gypsies and TravellersRoma, Gypsies and Travellers
RiversRivers
WildlifeWildlife
PlantsPlants
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