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The good, bad and ugly hair days The good, bad and ugly hair days
(30 minutes later)
By Chikodili Emelumadu BBC Africa Have Your SayBy Chikodili Emelumadu BBC Africa Have Your Say
It was only after losing a huge chunk of hair that I stopped straightening it with chemical relaxer - something I had done growing up in Nigeria since the age of six.It was only after losing a huge chunk of hair that I stopped straightening it with chemical relaxer - something I had done growing up in Nigeria since the age of six.
My bald patch was dubbed the "helicopter landing pad" by my flat mates at university for months afterwards.My bald patch was dubbed the "helicopter landing pad" by my flat mates at university for months afterwards.
I share this painful anecdote because a new documentary has re-ignited the natural versus straightened hair debate among black women.I share this painful anecdote because a new documentary has re-ignited the natural versus straightened hair debate among black women.
I've had my hair chemicalised for the last 10 years. It's so easy to manage because I have a lot of hair. I love it Olivia at Queens Hair DesignI've had my hair chemicalised for the last 10 years. It's so easy to manage because I have a lot of hair. I love it Olivia at Queens Hair Design
Chris Rock's film Good Hair focuses on the United States and the lengths and money African-Americans will go to achieve longer, smoother, shinier, straighter "good" hair - using hot presses, creme relaxers, weaves and wigs.Chris Rock's film Good Hair focuses on the United States and the lengths and money African-Americans will go to achieve longer, smoother, shinier, straighter "good" hair - using hot presses, creme relaxers, weaves and wigs.
Women in Africa are no strangers to the lure of "the creamy crack", as our American counterparts call relaxer - likening it to cocaine because of its addictive nature, and are as willing to take the risk of burning their scalps using it.Women in Africa are no strangers to the lure of "the creamy crack", as our American counterparts call relaxer - likening it to cocaine because of its addictive nature, and are as willing to take the risk of burning their scalps using it.
'Feel the burn''Feel the burn'
"I've had my hair chemicalised for the last 10 years," Olivia told the BBC as she had her hair done in Queens Hair Designers in the Kenyan capital, Nairobi."I've had my hair chemicalised for the last 10 years," Olivia told the BBC as she had her hair done in Queens Hair Designers in the Kenyan capital, Nairobi.
Cameroonian first lady Chantal Biya's leonine mane is her trademarkCameroonian first lady Chantal Biya's leonine mane is her trademark
"It's so easy to manage because I have a lot of hair. I love it.""It's so easy to manage because I have a lot of hair. I love it."
The most common ingredient in relaxers is sodium hydroxide or lye. In the documentary, an aluminium can dipped in a bowl containing the chemical melts completely.The most common ingredient in relaxers is sodium hydroxide or lye. In the documentary, an aluminium can dipped in a bowl containing the chemical melts completely.
But Florence, a hairdresser at Queens Hair Design, dismisses the "if you feel the burn, it's working" belief.But Florence, a hairdresser at Queens Hair Design, dismisses the "if you feel the burn, it's working" belief.
She says it is all about technique and places the blame for any "helicopter landing pads" squarely on too-clean or already traumatised scalps.She says it is all about technique and places the blame for any "helicopter landing pads" squarely on too-clean or already traumatised scalps.
"Usually before I relax your hair I will ask you whether you have recently braided or washed your hair. If you have then the hair will not relax nicely," she explains."Usually before I relax your hair I will ask you whether you have recently braided or washed your hair. If you have then the hair will not relax nicely," she explains.
South African Elma Titus, who specialises in African hair and scalp problems, agrees that relaxers are not solely to blame for the problem of hair loss.South African Elma Titus, who specialises in African hair and scalp problems, agrees that relaxers are not solely to blame for the problem of hair loss.
"It could be the chemicals or it could be the extensions that you're putting in your hair all the time without giving your hair time to recuperate - or even the wigs," she says."It could be the chemicals or it could be the extensions that you're putting in your hair all the time without giving your hair time to recuperate - or even the wigs," she says.
Human hairHuman hair
Apart from the health implications women face in search of good hair, there is the expense. Black women are said to spend about three times more on their hair than other women.Apart from the health implications women face in search of good hair, there is the expense. Black women are said to spend about three times more on their hair than other women.
My bad scalp days are well and truly over Chikodili EmelumaduMy bad scalp days are well and truly over Chikodili Emelumadu
The cost of extensions and wigs can be staggering, ranging from $10 a-piece for synthetic hair to as much as $800 (£486) and upwards for human hair pieces.The cost of extensions and wigs can be staggering, ranging from $10 a-piece for synthetic hair to as much as $800 (£486) and upwards for human hair pieces.
Yet it does not seem to deter women bent on achieving perfect flowing locks.Yet it does not seem to deter women bent on achieving perfect flowing locks.
Take Cameroon's first lady Chantal Biya for example. Her leonine mane of tawny hair has become her trademark.Take Cameroon's first lady Chantal Biya for example. Her leonine mane of tawny hair has become her trademark.
Nigerian Cherish Angula admitted to the BBC's Africa Have Your Say programme that she had just spent $750 getting a lace-front wig - but she said it is money well spent.Nigerian Cherish Angula admitted to the BBC's Africa Have Your Say programme that she had just spent $750 getting a lace-front wig - but she said it is money well spent.
"It lasts three, four times as long as ordinary weave-ons [extensions] and so it works out cheaper for me."It lasts three, four times as long as ordinary weave-ons [extensions] and so it works out cheaper for me.
"It is basically a whole head unit, you attach it with glue around the circumference of your head and it gives it a more natural appearance like the hair is growing from your head."It is basically a whole head unit, you attach it with glue around the circumference of your head and it gives it a more natural appearance like the hair is growing from your head.
"It's basically the same thing that celebrities like Beyonce wear.""It's basically the same thing that celebrities like Beyonce wear."
Fashion facism?Fashion facism?
What might seem like vanity to some can in fact boil down to survival for many women in Africa where careers and incomes can rely on one's hair style.What might seem like vanity to some can in fact boil down to survival for many women in Africa where careers and incomes can rely on one's hair style.
If you really want the job you'll have to do what they want Judy at Queens Hair DesignIf you really want the job you'll have to do what they want Judy at Queens Hair Design
In Kenya, for example, a woman with the natural look or dreadlocks is unlikely to succeed at job interviews.In Kenya, for example, a woman with the natural look or dreadlocks is unlikely to succeed at job interviews.
"If you really want the job you'll have to do what they want," says Judy at Queens Hair Design."If you really want the job you'll have to do what they want," says Judy at Queens Hair Design.
And even the thought of opting for a natural look is greeted with hilarity by the Queens Hair Design clientele.And even the thought of opting for a natural look is greeted with hilarity by the Queens Hair Design clientele.
But some women, such as journalist Phyllis Nyambura who edits a women's supplement for a Tanzanian newspaper, are trying to take on such prejudices.But some women, such as journalist Phyllis Nyambura who edits a women's supplement for a Tanzanian newspaper, are trying to take on such prejudices.
"The weaves were great at first," Ms Nyambura says."The weaves were great at first," Ms Nyambura says.
"I would change my hairstyles and look different all the time but the problem was that they are a bit expensive and there is also that fake thing about them.""I would change my hairstyles and look different all the time but the problem was that they are a bit expensive and there is also that fake thing about them."
For my part, I am immune to the fashion fascism, and my bad scalp days are well and truly over.For my part, I am immune to the fashion fascism, and my bad scalp days are well and truly over.


Here are some of your stories:
I relax my hair, I have since I was 16 and I don't think there's anything wrong with it. I've never researched the health detriments, but if I find it to be disturbing, then I have no problems switching to natural...but I anticipate that I'll have to be creative to make it easily manageable on a daily basis. On that note, I totally reject weaves, wigs and certain hair additions that simply aim at making one look European, i.e long flowing hair. Relaxed short hair, I have no problems with, braids are purely African (or so I assume) so I have no problem with that either, long, if it's yours, otherwise, I interpret such hair to poor value of one's self and ignorant self degradation. I say this knowing some think of relaxed hair such as mine in this way also :)Tolu, USA
After years of braiding, relaxing and a stint where I shaved my hair because I could not handle taking care of it, I now have dreadlocks. Because my hair was short when I started my dreadlocks, I short dreadlocks. But its cheaper, and I get more compliments. Though a man did offer me marijuana on a recent trip to San Francisco. I politely walked on.Janet, Kampala, Uganda
Its 7 months since I left Nigeria to Singapore and making a new hair style with a weavon is d last thing on my mind because all d Asian and Indians here have bountiful natural hairs. It painful to not see hair straighteners (relaxers), but fixing a good weavon is unacceptable cos there r no weavons 4 sale, we have to order from Nigeria b4 we fix hairs. I miss all d latest hair dos and fixing Nigeria could offer. It is horrible for us (55 persons)Cecilia, Singapore
Bad hair story: I went to the hairdressers to ask for a fringe like the picture I showed her. She cut too much far in on the head so I have a fringe much too far back on my head. It's still there! She said it looked fashionable and she was 50. It had to be fashionable back then! It looked awful.Julie, Copenhagen, Denmark
It's not just African-Americans. I also see many Latinas and other women of colour burn the holy-heck out of their hair to go "blonde." And what about those of us who fear showing our gray hair? I think there is a phobia of just being ourselves in society, and it's all around, not just in the U. S. I have decided to stop dying my hair and let it go completely gray, much to the dismay of some of the women I work with. Why is it that it's okay for a man to go grey, but not a woman?CM, Huante, Lawndale, USA
I had a good hair growth when I started braiding but after using several relaxers on ma hair, it started breaking and dwindling in growth that I had to barb my hair and start all over from the scratch.Ifure, Uyo, Nigeria
I recently found a relaxer that was able to relax my kinky hair for the first time. Before that though, I had tried to relax my hair with other which simply didn't do the trick. They would leave my hair brittle and hard, just a day after relaxing the thick, moppy and kinky mass. Thus, after repeated trials and accompanying disappointments and frustrations, the option was to cut it and and keep what we call a 'perm cut' in Ghana. Now, it is about five inches long; not long enough to pull a pony tail with, but quite ok. Currently, it is not too expensive to get my hair done, but who knows the extent to which i would go when I finally get sucked into the hair fascism in Africa, where everyday gets born with 'just the style for us'.
Nana, Accra, Ghana
I actually really like your natural hair. Alex, Toronto, Canada

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