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What is Baroness Warsi's 'dinner table test'? What is Baroness Warsi's 'dinner table test'?
(40 minutes later)
By Jon Kelly BBC News MagazineBy Jon Kelly BBC News Magazine
Hostility to Muslims has "passed the dinner table test", a peer claims. So how did this item of furniture become the benchmark for what is and isn't acceptable to say?Hostility to Muslims has "passed the dinner table test", a peer claims. So how did this item of furniture become the benchmark for what is and isn't acceptable to say?
You start with the cutlery on the outside and work your way in. The port is passed from right to left and you never, ever, blow your nose on the napkin.You start with the cutlery on the outside and work your way in. The port is passed from right to left and you never, ever, blow your nose on the napkin.
To the socially gauche, meal-time manners are already baffling enough. And now it appears that, all along, an unwritten code has governed the opinions we express while sitting down to eat.To the socially gauche, meal-time manners are already baffling enough. And now it appears that, all along, an unwritten code has governed the opinions we express while sitting down to eat.
In a speech, Baroness Warsi, co-chairman of the Tory Party, is expected to warn that prejudice towards Muslims had "passed the dinner table test" and become socially acceptable.In a speech, Baroness Warsi, co-chairman of the Tory Party, is expected to warn that prejudice towards Muslims had "passed the dinner table test" and become socially acceptable.
Her remarks are no doubt designed to provoke a debate about tolerance and mutual respect within a multicultural society. But, intriguingly, they also suggest that prandial protocol is governed by a strict set of rules about discussing controversial issues.Her remarks are no doubt designed to provoke a debate about tolerance and mutual respect within a multicultural society. But, intriguingly, they also suggest that prandial protocol is governed by a strict set of rules about discussing controversial issues.
Just as the water cooler is associated with gossip or chats about last night's television, the dinner table has certain assumed conversational rules of engagement; don't upset Auntie Margaret by talking about Uncle Ian's first marriage, for instance.Just as the water cooler is associated with gossip or chats about last night's television, the dinner table has certain assumed conversational rules of engagement; don't upset Auntie Margaret by talking about Uncle Ian's first marriage, for instance.
It also, too, carries with it associations of a cosy evening among friends or the "hard-working families" so often invoked by MPs.It also, too, carries with it associations of a cosy evening among friends or the "hard-working families" so often invoked by MPs.
Indeed, this is not the first occasion that a British centre-right politician has invoked such imagery.Indeed, this is not the first occasion that a British centre-right politician has invoked such imagery.
During his time as Tory party leader, William Hague staked out a claim for his own brand of "kitchen table Conservatism" - to the extent, according to contemporary reports, of installing an actual wooden table at the heart of his party's headquarters to act as a reminder to staffers how swing voters might sit down to their chicken Kievs.During his time as Tory party leader, William Hague staked out a claim for his own brand of "kitchen table Conservatism" - to the extent, according to contemporary reports, of installing an actual wooden table at the heart of his party's headquarters to act as a reminder to staffers how swing voters might sit down to their chicken Kievs.
In the most recent case, the meal-time analogy is used to make a point about the limits of polite discourse. The etiquette expert Simon Fanshawe says he agrees with Baroness Warsi that such occasions imply a level of conversational civility.In the most recent case, the meal-time analogy is used to make a point about the limits of polite discourse. The etiquette expert Simon Fanshawe says he agrees with Baroness Warsi that such occasions imply a level of conversational civility.
"I love a good argument, but I never let people bring up Iraq at my dinner table - it simply descends into a toxic row," he says."I love a good argument, but I never let people bring up Iraq at my dinner table - it simply descends into a toxic row," he says.
"It all comes back to the old rule that you don't talk about religion, sex or money at dinner."It all comes back to the old rule that you don't talk about religion, sex or money at dinner.
"Essentially, eating together isn't about the food, it's about the common experience - that's why you wait for each other before you start, that's why you don't leave the TV on. Then you combine that with the British terror of conflict - it's about avoiding feeling uncomfortable.""Essentially, eating together isn't about the food, it's about the common experience - that's why you wait for each other before you start, that's why you don't leave the TV on. Then you combine that with the British terror of conflict - it's about avoiding feeling uncomfortable."
However, not everyone is so appreciative of Baroness Warsi's rhetorical device.However, not everyone is so appreciative of Baroness Warsi's rhetorical device.
The Times food critic Giles Coren argues that the dining table is most commonly used by politicians to hark back to a mythic bygone age of nuclear families.The Times food critic Giles Coren argues that the dining table is most commonly used by politicians to hark back to a mythic bygone age of nuclear families.
Moreover, he insists, it is fetishised via dinner parties by those least likely to express an aversion to any minority group.Moreover, he insists, it is fetishised via dinner parties by those least likely to express an aversion to any minority group.
"It has these north London, Islington connotations, when in fact those sort of people would be desperate to have a Muslim or a black person or a homosexual at their dinner table to show how inclusive they are," he says."It has these north London, Islington connotations, when in fact those sort of people would be desperate to have a Muslim or a black person or a homosexual at their dinner table to show how inclusive they are," he says.
"I think she wants some Jamie Oliver cred. But we're always being told we don't sit down for dinner together enough."I think she wants some Jamie Oliver cred. But we're always being told we don't sit down for dinner together enough.
"Because eating and drinking is something that we all have in common, politicians think talking about it will make them look normal.""Because eating and drinking is something that we all have in common, politicians think talking about it will make them look normal."
It is a charge that surely would be rejected by Baroness Warsi, who was reared in the distinctly un-metropolitan environs of Dewsbury, west Yorkshire, of working-class stock.It is a charge that surely would be rejected by Baroness Warsi, who was reared in the distinctly un-metropolitan environs of Dewsbury, west Yorkshire, of working-class stock.
But the writer and restaurant critic Zoe Williams insists that the kind of meals attended by a front-rank politician have very different social rules from those experienced by most of the population.But the writer and restaurant critic Zoe Williams insists that the kind of meals attended by a front-rank politician have very different social rules from those experienced by most of the population.
"If you're at a dinner party and you're sat next to Michael Gove, it's a very, very active social test," she says. "You're expected to be provocative - it's like going on the Late Review.""If you're at a dinner party and you're sat next to Michael Gove, it's a very, very active social test," she says. "You're expected to be provocative - it's like going on the Late Review."
Lexicographers will be alert to whether Warsi's phrase catches on. In the meantime, the social obstacle confronted at dinner tables by most of us surely will be remembering to keep our elbows off them.Lexicographers will be alert to whether Warsi's phrase catches on. In the meantime, the social obstacle confronted at dinner tables by most of us surely will be remembering to keep our elbows off them.


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I generally stick to Army Mess rules and avoid religion or politics. Both are subjects upon which strong views are held and about which people can get very upset if their opinions are not respected. Discussion of politics can also cause indigestion brought on by indignation at the appallingly mediocre current crop and their failure to do their duty or meet their obligations!I generally stick to Army Mess rules and avoid religion or politics. Both are subjects upon which strong views are held and about which people can get very upset if their opinions are not respected. Discussion of politics can also cause indigestion brought on by indignation at the appallingly mediocre current crop and their failure to do their duty or meet their obligations!
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    • "You don't talk about religion, sex or money at dinner" Mr Fanshawe has clearly never come for his tea at my house"You don't talk about religion, sex or money at dinner" Mr Fanshawe has clearly never come for his tea at my house
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    • The subjects to be avoided depend to a large extent on those present at the dinner table. Almost any subject can offend someone.The subjects to be avoided depend to a large extent on those present at the dinner table. Almost any subject can offend someone.
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    • In common with most of the "Hard-working families" of the UK we can't afford to go out to dinner parties. Among friends and family when we *do* get together, we have many, much more important things to talk about - I'm very pleased to say.In common with most of the "Hard-working families" of the UK we can't afford to go out to dinner parties. Among friends and family when we *do* get together, we have many, much more important things to talk about - I'm very pleased to say.
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    • "...it's about avoiding feeling uncomfortable."My in-laws tend to stick very strictly to these 'dinner table rules', and I actually find that makes me way more uncomfortable than a more informal dinner would. I feel the conversation is very stilted, and very impersonal. Give me a raucous tabke where people talk abut money, sex, religion, shout across the room, and interrupt each other any day!"...it's about avoiding feeling uncomfortable."My in-laws tend to stick very strictly to these 'dinner table rules', and I actually find that makes me way more uncomfortable than a more informal dinner would. I feel the conversation is very stilted, and very impersonal. Give me a raucous tabke where people talk abut money, sex, religion, shout across the room, and interrupt each other any day!
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