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Myanmar's diving scavengers and other working lives Myanmar's diving scavengers and other working lives
(7 days later)
With Myanmar's first credible general election in 25 years just weeks away, our Myanmar correspondent Jonah Fisher met five people in Yangon to find out how the country's reforms have affected their working lives.With Myanmar's first credible general election in 25 years just weeks away, our Myanmar correspondent Jonah Fisher met five people in Yangon to find out how the country's reforms have affected their working lives.
Since political reforms began in Myanmar, also known as Burma, in 2011, the economy has been growing steadily at more than 5% a year.Since political reforms began in Myanmar, also known as Burma, in 2011, the economy has been growing steadily at more than 5% a year.
In Yangon, also known as Rangoon, that change is evident in new buildings, nascent shopping malls and, unfortunately, the traffic.In Yangon, also known as Rangoon, that change is evident in new buildings, nascent shopping malls and, unfortunately, the traffic.
Some have done very well since the lifting of international sanctions and the opening up of Myanmar's economy. But what about those at the bottom of the pile?Some have done very well since the lifting of international sanctions and the opening up of Myanmar's economy. But what about those at the bottom of the pile?
Than Nyunt, 50, earns a living diving for scraps of iron and timber in the Yangon River. Each morning, he boards a creaking wooden boat and heads out on to the water.Than Nyunt, 50, earns a living diving for scraps of iron and timber in the Yangon River. Each morning, he boards a creaking wooden boat and heads out on to the water.
At a promising-looking spot, an anchor is dropped and dragged along the river bed. If it hits something, Than Nyunt dons a rudimentary home-made mask and leaps into the water.At a promising-looking spot, an anchor is dropped and dragged along the river bed. If it hits something, Than Nyunt dons a rudimentary home-made mask and leaps into the water.
Dangerous businessDangerous business
The Yangon River serves as the sewer as well as the lifeblood for Myanmar's largest city. Its colour is somewhere between melted milk chocolate and black coffee. Visibility is zero.The Yangon River serves as the sewer as well as the lifeblood for Myanmar's largest city. Its colour is somewhere between melted milk chocolate and black coffee. Visibility is zero.
"We are clever at this and experienced. We know the river," he says with a smile."We are clever at this and experienced. We know the river," he says with a smile.
"When we're on the river bed we crawl on our hands and knees touching things.""When we're on the river bed we crawl on our hands and knees touching things."
Finding anything is largely down to luck. On average, he earns about $15 (£10) a day. But turning up a large piece of iron such as a propeller or anchor, can earn his team between $50 and $100.Finding anything is largely down to luck. On average, he earns about $15 (£10) a day. But turning up a large piece of iron such as a propeller or anchor, can earn his team between $50 and $100.
It is a dangerous business. The air he breathes is pumped from a simple compressor through a hose that can easily snag.It is a dangerous business. The air he breathes is pumped from a simple compressor through a hose that can easily snag.
"Many people have been killed doing this, including my trainer and some of my friends," he says."Many people have been killed doing this, including my trainer and some of my friends," he says.
Some divers have been trapped inside shipwrecks or had their masks ripped off by strong, underwater currents.Some divers have been trapped inside shipwrecks or had their masks ripped off by strong, underwater currents.
Myanmar's recent transformation has made very little difference to the divers, but for others it has brought opportunity.Myanmar's recent transformation has made very little difference to the divers, but for others it has brought opportunity.
With diplomats for parents, Ye Htut Win or Sharky , as he is better known, spent most of his formative years living abroad. During that time he developed a passion for European delicacies, and in the mid-1990s challenged himself to return home and make them.With diplomats for parents, Ye Htut Win or Sharky , as he is better known, spent most of his formative years living abroad. During that time he developed a passion for European delicacies, and in the mid-1990s challenged himself to return home and make them.
He employed farmers on the outskirts of Yangon to grow vegetables which he then sold to Yangon's hotels. Later, he tried replicating Western dishes.He employed farmers on the outskirts of Yangon to grow vegetables which he then sold to Yangon's hotels. Later, he tried replicating Western dishes.
"I've always believed that good food has a power, a magic that can bring joy," he says."I've always believed that good food has a power, a magic that can bring joy," he says.
Shielded by the cocoon of sanctions and Myanmar's pariah status, Sharky was able to hone his skills as a farmer, gourmet cheesemaker and baker.Shielded by the cocoon of sanctions and Myanmar's pariah status, Sharky was able to hone his skills as a farmer, gourmet cheesemaker and baker.
'The genie is out of the bottle''The genie is out of the bottle'
"The country was isolated, it was literally lockdown so I had no competition," he says. "Literally you could do what you want. As long as it was not politics.""The country was isolated, it was literally lockdown so I had no competition," he says. "Literally you could do what you want. As long as it was not politics."
But the market was also limited. There was a very small group of resident expats, and most Burmese had not tasted Western food.But the market was also limited. There was a very small group of resident expats, and most Burmese had not tasted Western food.
But with the country opening up and the number of tourists rising each year, Sharky is now reaping the rewards.But with the country opening up and the number of tourists rising each year, Sharky is now reaping the rewards.
He is about to open his fourth branch, on the iconic Pansodan street in downtown Yangon. Like his other restaurants-cum-delis, it will sell everything from hummus and ham, to Burmese sea salt.He is about to open his fourth branch, on the iconic Pansodan street in downtown Yangon. Like his other restaurants-cum-delis, it will sell everything from hummus and ham, to Burmese sea salt.
He believes that whatever happens politically, Myanmar's economic transformation is irreversible.He believes that whatever happens politically, Myanmar's economic transformation is irreversible.
"I think the genie is out of the bottle," he says. "During this period, whoever governs the country, jobs have to be provided, futures have to be provided for, and I do believe that you cannot stop it anymore.""I think the genie is out of the bottle," he says. "During this period, whoever governs the country, jobs have to be provided, futures have to be provided for, and I do believe that you cannot stop it anymore."
Nang Kham Noung has been destined for Myanmar's top table since birth. Her father is the well-connected founder and chairman of the country's biggest bank KBZ.Nang Kham Noung has been destined for Myanmar's top table since birth. Her father is the well-connected founder and chairman of the country's biggest bank KBZ.
Thanks in part to its close ties to the government, KBZ has grown rapidly from just 50 branches in 2011 to more than 350 now.Thanks in part to its close ties to the government, KBZ has grown rapidly from just 50 branches in 2011 to more than 350 now.
After studying in Singapore and Qatar, Marlene, as she prefers to be called, was summoned back to Yangon by her father and, at the age of 24, became the fresh-faced executive director of KBZ Group. After studying in Singapore, London and Qatar, Marlene, as she prefers to be called, was summoned back to Yangon by her father and, at the age of 24, became the fresh-faced executive director of KBZ Group.
Cash is kingCash is king
"My sister and I are second generation business leaders. The plan is that my father will pass on the bank to my sisters and I to run the business.""My sister and I are second generation business leaders. The plan is that my father will pass on the bank to my sisters and I to run the business."
For now, she is focused on learning how the business works. Cash is still king in Myanmar - a legacy of a run on the country's private banks in 2003 - so branch offices are piled high with blocks of banknotes.For now, she is focused on learning how the business works. Cash is still king in Myanmar - a legacy of a run on the country's private banks in 2003 - so branch offices are piled high with blocks of banknotes.
"We have just reintroduced cards so it's taking time to rebuild confidence in the system," she says."We have just reintroduced cards so it's taking time to rebuild confidence in the system," she says.
Until recently, sanctions meant the Burmese financial system was, in effect, cut off from the international network. That is slowly changing.Until recently, sanctions meant the Burmese financial system was, in effect, cut off from the international network. That is slowly changing.
Cash machines in Myanmar accept foreign cards but transactions between Western and Burmese banks are still complicated.Cash machines in Myanmar accept foreign cards but transactions between Western and Burmese banks are still complicated.
"It's getting easier every day," Marlene says. "But it's still more difficult than in other countries because international banks are just getting to know us again and they have their own compliance policies.""It's getting easier every day," Marlene says. "But it's still more difficult than in other countries because international banks are just getting to know us again and they have their own compliance policies."
Internet entrepreneur Ye Myat Min is also 24, and on paper at least, also a millionaire.Internet entrepreneur Ye Myat Min is also 24, and on paper at least, also a millionaire.
His fortune though is entirely self-made. Two and a half years ago Ye Myat's internet and app design company Nex started by renting six desks in a dingy building in downtown Yangon.His fortune though is entirely self-made. Two and a half years ago Ye Myat's internet and app design company Nex started by renting six desks in a dingy building in downtown Yangon.
At the time, Ye Myat divided his time between his studies in Singapore and trying to get the business off the ground.At the time, Ye Myat divided his time between his studies in Singapore and trying to get the business off the ground.
The combination did not work. His grades plummeted and, much to his parents' annoyance, he dropped his studies and returned to work full-time in Yangon.The combination did not work. His grades plummeted and, much to his parents' annoyance, he dropped his studies and returned to work full-time in Yangon.
Anonymous appealAnonymous appeal
But the timing was good. Myanmar was on the cusp of a connectivity revolution. State-of-the-art mobile networks were about to be built across the country and smartphone sales were rocketing.But the timing was good. Myanmar was on the cusp of a connectivity revolution. State-of-the-art mobile networks were about to be built across the country and smartphone sales were rocketing.
"The internet connection back in 2009 was really bad," Ye Myat says. Bad enough that he could watch a feature film in the time that it took to load a single simple web page."The internet connection back in 2009 was really bad," Ye Myat says. Bad enough that he could watch a feature film in the time that it took to load a single simple web page.
These days, the internet is not as good as other Asian countries but, says Ye Myat, it is "getting usable".These days, the internet is not as good as other Asian countries but, says Ye Myat, it is "getting usable".
Ye Myat's most popular and controversial product is an anonymous chatting app called Hush. It enables people to exchange messages without revealing anything about themselves.Ye Myat's most popular and controversial product is an anonymous chatting app called Hush. It enables people to exchange messages without revealing anything about themselves.
Myanmar's past as a closed-off country means that many people are "very conservative, shy and closed about their opinions", he explains.Myanmar's past as a closed-off country means that many people are "very conservative, shy and closed about their opinions", he explains.
His anonymous platform allows people to speak more openly about their opinions.His anonymous platform allows people to speak more openly about their opinions.
The company currently has 30 employees and is expecting to add another 10 in the coming months. They are hoping to become profitable too.The company currently has 30 employees and is expecting to add another 10 in the coming months. They are hoping to become profitable too.
When Myanmar goes to the polls on 8 November, it will take a leap into the unknown after 25 years of military rule. However, one man is approaching the day with certainty if not clarity.When Myanmar goes to the polls on 8 November, it will take a leap into the unknown after 25 years of military rule. However, one man is approaching the day with certainty if not clarity.
San Zarni Bo is the country's most famous astrologer, dispensing predictions in newspapers and on radio stations and in person from a modest house on the outskirts of Yangon.San Zarni Bo is the country's most famous astrologer, dispensing predictions in newspapers and on radio stations and in person from a modest house on the outskirts of Yangon.
Inside, the waiting room is packed, mainly with women. Some of them are pregnant and wanting guidance on an auspicious date for a Caesarean, others seek advice on their children's names.Inside, the waiting room is packed, mainly with women. Some of them are pregnant and wanting guidance on an auspicious date for a Caesarean, others seek advice on their children's names.
Polished diamondPolished diamond
Each morning, he sees up to 30 people reading palms and analysing birth dates making, he tells us, more than $1,000 a day.Each morning, he sees up to 30 people reading palms and analysing birth dates making, he tells us, more than $1,000 a day.
"Astrology is based on both the tradition and the culture here in Myanmar," he explains."Astrology is based on both the tradition and the culture here in Myanmar," he explains.
"It's for everything. If they want to build a house the astrologer can calculate a good time to start it.""It's for everything. If they want to build a house the astrologer can calculate a good time to start it."
But San Zarni Bo dispenses more than personal advice.But San Zarni Bo dispenses more than personal advice.
Astrology and numerology permeate Burmese political life and key decisions. Even the timing of the move to the new capital Nay Pyi Taw is said to have been taken on advice of fortune tellers.Astrology and numerology permeate Burmese political life and key decisions. Even the timing of the move to the new capital Nay Pyi Taw is said to have been taken on advice of fortune tellers.
The outlook for election day, according to San Zarni Bo, is mixed at best.The outlook for election day, according to San Zarni Bo, is mixed at best.
"It's not an auspicious day. In fact, it's a very bad day," he says. "There may be instability. There may be a coup d'etat.""It's not an auspicious day. In fact, it's a very bad day," he says. "There may be instability. There may be a coup d'etat."
He is a longstanding supporter of opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi and has predicted she will eventually become the country's president.He is a longstanding supporter of opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi and has predicted she will eventually become the country's president.
"She's like a diamond being polished getting brighter and brighter. She's born on 19 June - she can gain more and more from the instability.""She's like a diamond being polished getting brighter and brighter. She's born on 19 June - she can gain more and more from the instability."
Part of the Myanmar Direct series.Part of the Myanmar Direct series.