An insider's guide to Lima: psychedelic electronica and ceviche by the sea
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Version 0 of 1. In five words Chaotic, growing, yummy, ocean, party. Sound of the city Traffic is hectic and almost unbearable, so noise pollution rules. Cars honking and people yelling insults are the main soundtrack to the city. However, Lima is also the only capital in South America to face the ocean, and the sea provides for beautiful scenery and a soothing sound on quiet nights for those who live nearby. Everybody’s tuning into … Lima has become quite the culinary capital, and Peruvians love to eat, so a TV show focused on cooking by one of the leading local chefs is destined to be a hit. Such is the case of Desde El Jardín, hosted by Pedro Miguel Schiaffino on Peruvian cable channel Plus TV. Best venue That would have to be the Gran Teatro Nacional (Grand National Theatre), which opened in 2012 and boasts the title of biggest theatre in the country. It is home to the National Symphony Orchestra, National Ballet and National Choir. Acts performed here include internationally cast operas such as The Magic Flute and Madame Butterfly and composers such as Ute Lemper, Philip Glass and Wynton Marsalis. Who’s top of the playlist? Dengue Dengue Dengue describe themselves as a “tropical storm of psychedelic electronica”. This duo formed by Rafael Pereira and Felipe Salmón, fuses cumbia, dub, techno and local rhythms from the Peruvian jungle. Favourite local artist Thirty-one-year-old Abel Bentín shows how you can transform something negative into a positive work of art. I met him about six years ago and he described himself as a former fat-kid. His sugar issues became the inspiration for his first exhibit Candyvore– a mix of the naive and the macabre in a visually enticing form. The look on the street Street style in Lima isn’t very fashion forward, there’s a certain love for blending in instead of standing out and whenever someone stands out, they will be ridiculed instead of celebrated for their individuality. That’s why I chose this girl who has been gaining attention with the young crowd for her mix of typical Andean attire and contemporary basics such as denim jackets or t-shirts. She’s been both criticised and praised in on social networks. I think she embodies Peruvians’ fairly recent diminishing rejection of all things Andean. What’s the big talking point? Everyone is talking about Lima’s cardinal Juan Luis Cipriani. A prominent figure in Peru’s political scene (despite the separation between church and state), Cipriani is the leading opposing force against same-sex marriage and the decriminalisation of abortion. This time, however, he’s made the headlines for shamelessly plagiarising both Pope Paul VI and Pope Benedict XVI in two different articles written for Peru’s leading newspaper, El Comercio. The criminal act came to public attention through local news site Utero.pe. Cipriani, once faced with the facts, claimed it was the inevitable result of being provided with such a reduced space in the newspaper, therefore unable to add a footnote citing his sources. Best cultural instagram Lima Social Diary has a little bit of everything that goes on in Lima. It’s a view of Lima’s activities and a who’s who in town. Often the city’s upcoming art shows and exhibits are announced there, as well as concerts and other cultural events. The page offers coverage of almost every major party in the city. What does Lima do better than anyone else? Food. Any kind of food and on any level. From casual, neighbourhood cevicherías to high-end restaurants, such as Rafael and Central. Central, run by Virgilio Martínez (also of Lima in London), is currently number four of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Comedy Gold Luis Melgar is one of the leading figures of growing stand-up comedy scene. His act mainly targets current events and the local political scene – which, believe me, is quite a generous source of comedic material. Moment in history Probably Pope John Paul II’s first visit to Lima 30 years ago in February 1985. Peru has a Catholic majority, and religion is present in almost every aspect of every day life. John Paul II was the first pope to ever visit the country and people still remember that moment vividly, it was a time of economic crisis and during the active days of terrorist group The Shining Path. Best street art I Used to Dream by Elliot Tupac was created in 2012 in the historical centre of Lima and was one of the few surviving murals after the city’s current mayor, Luis Castañeda Lossio, decided to eliminate most of the works in this part of town by covering them in yellow paint – the colour of his political party. Elliot Tupac is Peru’s main representative when it comes to chicha art and has showcased his work at the Maddox Gallery in London. Sadly, this mural is now also a thing of the past. From me I’m a fashion designer, vegetarian and major Madonna fan. Peruvian dad, Uruguayan mom, born in Romania. I’ve been living in Lima since 1997. To follow … Utero.pe An alternative to the traditional news sources with various contributors, with a slight humorous twist Limacitron A visual and musical journey about nightlife in Lima Lima más arriba Photographer Evelyn Merino-Reyna’s view of the city and surroundings from above Beto Ortiz a local journalist |