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For $14.50, Afghan Refugees Make a Desperate Bet on a Way Out For $14.50, Afghan Refugees Make a Desperate Bet on a Way Out
(about 9 hours later)
KABUL, Afghanistan — The winding road to Germany starts on the outskirts of Kabul, at the Ahmad Shah Baba bus depot. KABUL, Afghanistan — The winding road to Germany starts on the outskirts of Kabul, at the Ahmad Shah Baba bus depot.
This is where some of the youngest and poorest Afghans hoping to migrate to Europe gather each day to leave. If they carry a backpack at all, it is usually slack, with little inside. Some have begun hearing that there is one country eager to have them.This is where some of the youngest and poorest Afghans hoping to migrate to Europe gather each day to leave. If they carry a backpack at all, it is usually slack, with little inside. Some have begun hearing that there is one country eager to have them.
“I am trying to go to Germany,” Abdul Javed, 16, said after buying a bus ticket. “Hopefully I will pass this test and get there.”“I am trying to go to Germany,” Abdul Javed, 16, said after buying a bus ticket. “Hopefully I will pass this test and get there.”
He stood in the depot’s small office, where a red carpet had been thrown over the counter so passengers could rest their elbows as they counted out their cash.He stood in the depot’s small office, where a red carpet had been thrown over the counter so passengers could rest their elbows as they counted out their cash.
The ticket agent, Rahmatullah, says he does not have a bus headed all the way to Munich. But the equivalent of $14.50 secures a seat on the first leg of the journey, to Nimruz, a desolate province along Afghanistan’s border with Iran.The ticket agent, Rahmatullah, says he does not have a bus headed all the way to Munich. But the equivalent of $14.50 secures a seat on the first leg of the journey, to Nimruz, a desolate province along Afghanistan’s border with Iran.
Until last year most of the teenagers headed toward Nimruz wanted to go no farther than Iran, to seek work as laborers. But these days, the province is better known as the first stop on the path to Europe.Until last year most of the teenagers headed toward Nimruz wanted to go no farther than Iran, to seek work as laborers. But these days, the province is better known as the first stop on the path to Europe.
Now some 40 buses depart each day to Nimruz, according to ticket agents from a range of bus companies in Kabul.Now some 40 buses depart each day to Nimruz, according to ticket agents from a range of bus companies in Kabul.
The Ahmad Shah Baba service is among the most popular, having gained a reputation for fast and reckless driving that can finish the journey in 12 hours.The Ahmad Shah Baba service is among the most popular, having gained a reputation for fast and reckless driving that can finish the journey in 12 hours.
When Rahmatullah thinks of how many people are leaving Afghanistan — every ticket he sells is a reminder — he feels wonder and sadness. “There were never this many people leaving until now,” he said.When Rahmatullah thinks of how many people are leaving Afghanistan — every ticket he sells is a reminder — he feels wonder and sadness. “There were never this many people leaving until now,” he said.
For a generation, Afghans had been the largest group of refugees in the world, other than Palestinians. Last year, the number of Afghan refugees was overtaken by fleeing Syrians.For a generation, Afghans had been the largest group of refugees in the world, other than Palestinians. Last year, the number of Afghan refugees was overtaken by fleeing Syrians.
Yet Afghans are leaving at an accelerated rate. Through July, about 77,700 Afghans had reached Turkey and Europe and applied for asylum this year, compared with 58,500 for all of 2014, according to data from the United Nations. And after Syrians, Afghans make up the largest group of the more than 381,000 people to have arrived in Europe by sea this year.Yet Afghans are leaving at an accelerated rate. Through July, about 77,700 Afghans had reached Turkey and Europe and applied for asylum this year, compared with 58,500 for all of 2014, according to data from the United Nations. And after Syrians, Afghans make up the largest group of the more than 381,000 people to have arrived in Europe by sea this year.
Many young Afghans feel a gloom settling over their future, as well as their country’s. The Taliban are gaining more territory. The departure of foreign troops and organizations has left behind a shrunken economy. The new government, now almost a year old, has done little that anyone can recall.Many young Afghans feel a gloom settling over their future, as well as their country’s. The Taliban are gaining more territory. The departure of foreign troops and organizations has left behind a shrunken economy. The new government, now almost a year old, has done little that anyone can recall.
“Some time ago, we entered into the dark ages,” said Aynullah, who sells bus tickets from a stall along the crowded highway that leads south out of Kabul, toward Kandahar, and then swoops east to Nimruz. “Some time ago, we entered into the dark ages,” said Aynullah, who sells bus tickets from a stall along the crowded highway that leads south out of Kabul, toward Kandahar, and then swoops west to Nimruz.
Of all the routes to Europe, this is among the worst.Of all the routes to Europe, this is among the worst.
Any Afghan who can afford a flight to Turkey will take it and pick up the trail from there, avoiding Iran. The border police in Iran sometimes shoot at Afghans crossing the desert, migrants and Afghan officials said.Any Afghan who can afford a flight to Turkey will take it and pick up the trail from there, avoiding Iran. The border police in Iran sometimes shoot at Afghans crossing the desert, migrants and Afghan officials said.
“There have been weeks where we have had 44 corpses sent back across the border,” Amir Mohammad Akhundzada, the former governor of Nimruz, said this year. “The bodies were of people who had been in accidents, or hanged for smuggling, or shot while crossing. We are facing a major crisis.”“There have been weeks where we have had 44 corpses sent back across the border,” Amir Mohammad Akhundzada, the former governor of Nimruz, said this year. “The bodies were of people who had been in accidents, or hanged for smuggling, or shot while crossing. We are facing a major crisis.”
Those who get to Turkey through Iran often join fleeing Syrians and Iraqis heading across the sea to Greece and then up through the Balkans. But most do not make it far beyond the border of Iran, at least not on their first try.Those who get to Turkey through Iran often join fleeing Syrians and Iraqis heading across the sea to Greece and then up through the Balkans. But most do not make it far beyond the border of Iran, at least not on their first try.
The odds of success become clear most days at 5 p.m., when the return buses from Nimruz start to roll into the depot. On a recent afternoon, one of the last passengers to stagger off a bus from Nimruz was 18-year-old Rehanullah, his face sallow from dehydration and hunger. Rehanullah, who like many Afghans uses a single name, had set out from Kabul eight days earlier.The odds of success become clear most days at 5 p.m., when the return buses from Nimruz start to roll into the depot. On a recent afternoon, one of the last passengers to stagger off a bus from Nimruz was 18-year-old Rehanullah, his face sallow from dehydration and hunger. Rehanullah, who like many Afghans uses a single name, had set out from Kabul eight days earlier.
“I didn’t have a particular country in mind — I just wanted to go,” he said.“I didn’t have a particular country in mind — I just wanted to go,” he said.
He had grown up in Jalalabad, in Afghanistan’s east, where he worked in a mechanics shop, earning little. The war had touched his family: An older brother was killed three years ago.He had grown up in Jalalabad, in Afghanistan’s east, where he worked in a mechanics shop, earning little. The war had touched his family: An older brother was killed three years ago.
“I believe Europe will treat us as humans,” he said. But here, “I have nothing in my hand — nothing.”“I believe Europe will treat us as humans,” he said. But here, “I have nothing in my hand — nothing.”
Rehanullah recalled his father’s words to him before he left home: “Yes, there is no future here. If you want to go, go.”Rehanullah recalled his father’s words to him before he left home: “Yes, there is no future here. If you want to go, go.”
He had set out with the equivalent of $65 in the pocket of his blue shalwar kameez, the traditional, loosefitting clothing of Afghanistan. In his backpack, he carried a pair of jeans and a T-shirt he would change into once Afghanistan was far behind him. He never got the chance.He had set out with the equivalent of $65 in the pocket of his blue shalwar kameez, the traditional, loosefitting clothing of Afghanistan. In his backpack, he carried a pair of jeans and a T-shirt he would change into once Afghanistan was far behind him. He never got the chance.
In Nimruz, he met a smuggler who agreed to ferry him across the border. An impossible number of people squeezed into a Toyota Corolla, Rehanullah said, explaining that he was one of four in the trunk.In Nimruz, he met a smuggler who agreed to ferry him across the border. An impossible number of people squeezed into a Toyota Corolla, Rehanullah said, explaining that he was one of four in the trunk.
The next thing he knew, the car had stopped and other passengers were bleeding. The police had fired on the car, killing two people with him, he said.The next thing he knew, the car had stopped and other passengers were bleeding. The police had fired on the car, killing two people with him, he said.
After a day in jail, he was deported. He made it back to Kabul, only after persuading the bus driver to let him on for free. “I begged the driver for half an hour.”After a day in jail, he was deported. He made it back to Kabul, only after persuading the bus driver to let him on for free. “I begged the driver for half an hour.”
It is the sort of story that is not unusual to hear as the return buses arrive. But the pessimism of the passengers lingers in the bus depot for only as long as it takes everyone to disperse.It is the sort of story that is not unusual to hear as the return buses arrive. But the pessimism of the passengers lingers in the bus depot for only as long as it takes everyone to disperse.
The rest of the day, it is as though the people at the bus depot are bound by some communal decision to be optimistic, and they all keep worries to themselves.The rest of the day, it is as though the people at the bus depot are bound by some communal decision to be optimistic, and they all keep worries to themselves.
At the depot’s entrance, a group of young men squatted, discussing the price of a ticket.At the depot’s entrance, a group of young men squatted, discussing the price of a ticket.
Sher Mohammad, one of the bus drivers, watched them with a touch of pity. “Look at them,” he said. “All are 16, 17, 18, 19.”Sher Mohammad, one of the bus drivers, watched them with a touch of pity. “Look at them,” he said. “All are 16, 17, 18, 19.”
“They are boys,” Mr. Mohammad said, “and they think they will have a better life — and their parents encourage them to leave.”“They are boys,” Mr. Mohammad said, “and they think they will have a better life — and their parents encourage them to leave.”
Rahmatullah, the ticket agent, often sells enough tickets in a day to fill up two, sometimes three buses, each with 57 seats.Rahmatullah, the ticket agent, often sells enough tickets in a day to fill up two, sometimes three buses, each with 57 seats.
But soon, he said, he may sell his last ticket and board a bus himself, heading toward Germany, by way of Nimruz.But soon, he said, he may sell his last ticket and board a bus himself, heading toward Germany, by way of Nimruz.
He knows the odds better than anyone, but he makes the equivalent of only $11 a day, not nearly enough to skip Iran by flying to Turkey.He knows the odds better than anyone, but he makes the equivalent of only $11 a day, not nearly enough to skip Iran by flying to Turkey.
“It’s too dangerous to go by road, but I can’t afford air travel,” he said. “God willing, I will go soon.”“It’s too dangerous to go by road, but I can’t afford air travel,” he said. “God willing, I will go soon.”