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Marc Jacobs closes New York fashion week in trademark spectacular style Sequins, chandeliers, spotlights: Marc Jacobs closes New York fashion week in outré style
(about 7 hours later)
Marc Jacobs closed New York fashion week on Thursday night with a show so spectacular the city’s other designers will be relieved they don’t have to follow it.Marc Jacobs closed New York fashion week on Thursday night with a show so spectacular the city’s other designers will be relieved they don’t have to follow it.
Related: Sequins compulsory: inside Marc Jacobs' New York fashion week partyRelated: Sequins compulsory: inside Marc Jacobs' New York fashion week party
The location was Ziegfeld Theatre, a baroque single-screen cinema resplendent with red velvet walls and glittering chandeliers. Jacobs’ name was six-foot-high in lights above the entrance; in the lobby, ushers in waistcoats handed out drinks and snacks in shiny crimson ‘Marc Jacobs’-branded cups. In the main arena, three runways ran between the plush cinema seats, where Jacobs’ celebrity friends, including Debbie Harry and Sofia Coppola, proved their superhuman levels of chic by remaining crumb free while eating popcorn.The location was Ziegfeld Theatre, a baroque single-screen cinema resplendent with red velvet walls and glittering chandeliers. Jacobs’ name was six-foot-high in lights above the entrance; in the lobby, ushers in waistcoats handed out drinks and snacks in shiny crimson ‘Marc Jacobs’-branded cups. In the main arena, three runways ran between the plush cinema seats, where Jacobs’ celebrity friends, including Debbie Harry and Sofia Coppola, proved their superhuman levels of chic by remaining crumb free while eating popcorn.
On the stage, a 20-piece swing band waited for its cue, while virtual curtains were pulled back on the cinema screen, and the first model was shown striding down the red carpet outside. Her long walk took her past a Marc Jacobs-branded board, of the kind celebrities pose in front of dutifully at events, where she lingered for comic effect before gliding up the escalator and passing through the lobby. When she at last arrived in person, illuminated by a spotlight, the band started playing.On the stage, a 20-piece swing band waited for its cue, while virtual curtains were pulled back on the cinema screen, and the first model was shown striding down the red carpet outside. Her long walk took her past a Marc Jacobs-branded board, of the kind celebrities pose in front of dutifully at events, where she lingered for comic effect before gliding up the escalator and passing through the lobby. When she at last arrived in person, illuminated by a spotlight, the band started playing.
The staging was over the top, and so too was the model casting: Jacobs hired all the hottest names of the moment (Joan Smalls, Lineisy Montero, Molly Bair, Kendall Jenner) as well as a some more unusual choices, including Beth Ditto, in a rare appearance of a plus size women on the official fashion week catwalk, and Emily Ratajkowski, the actor who infamously starred in the Robin Thicke’s Blurred Lines video.The staging was over the top, and so too was the model casting: Jacobs hired all the hottest names of the moment (Joan Smalls, Lineisy Montero, Molly Bair, Kendall Jenner) as well as a some more unusual choices, including Beth Ditto, in a rare appearance of a plus size women on the official fashion week catwalk, and Emily Ratajkowski, the actor who infamously starred in the Robin Thicke’s Blurred Lines video.
How could the clothes live up to such levels of pizzazz? Jacobs answered that challenge by throwing every conceivable sparkly, shiny idea at the collection.How could the clothes live up to such levels of pizzazz? Jacobs answered that challenge by throwing every conceivable sparkly, shiny idea at the collection.
The exhaustive 61 looks picked up on a lot of the ideas Jacobs is famous for: awkwardly pretty tank tops, quirky Beetlejuice stripes, and grunge, particularly, in checked shirts used as layers. If there was a dominant theme it was Americana – models had morning-after rockabilly hair and many wore American flag bras or carried star spangled handbags. But there was so much more besides: baseball jackets, majorette uniforms, trouser suits, brooches, fur stoles, cowboy boots, clashes of texture in wooly jumpers worn over shimmering evening skirts, and cinematic references in the repeated printed motif of a woman wearing 3D glasses. It was a riot of texture and tone – as wilfully discordant as the music the band played – but it worked brilliantly.The exhaustive 61 looks picked up on a lot of the ideas Jacobs is famous for: awkwardly pretty tank tops, quirky Beetlejuice stripes, and grunge, particularly, in checked shirts used as layers. If there was a dominant theme it was Americana – models had morning-after rockabilly hair and many wore American flag bras or carried star spangled handbags. But there was so much more besides: baseball jackets, majorette uniforms, trouser suits, brooches, fur stoles, cowboy boots, clashes of texture in wooly jumpers worn over shimmering evening skirts, and cinematic references in the repeated printed motif of a woman wearing 3D glasses. It was a riot of texture and tone – as wilfully discordant as the music the band played – but it worked brilliantly.
Related: Opening Ceremony show at New York fashion week: five things to knowRelated: Opening Ceremony show at New York fashion week: five things to know
The show came at a time of immense pressure for the brand: earlier this year, Jacobs’ diffusion line – Marc by Marc Jacobs – was closed, and its designers, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, left to set up their own label. The idea was for the whole of the company’s stock to be designed under the main “Marc Jacobs” banner, a consolidation that occurred amid rumours of an upcoming IPO. It was important to get this first glimpse of the new all-encompassing Marc Jacobs right, then, and no expense had been spared in the effort.The show came at a time of immense pressure for the brand: earlier this year, Jacobs’ diffusion line – Marc by Marc Jacobs – was closed, and its designers, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, left to set up their own label. The idea was for the whole of the company’s stock to be designed under the main “Marc Jacobs” banner, a consolidation that occurred amid rumours of an upcoming IPO. It was important to get this first glimpse of the new all-encompassing Marc Jacobs right, then, and no expense had been spared in the effort.
Guests were even given branded napkins and a program containing a quiz for true Marc Jacobs fans. One question “what colour were @themarcjacobs Calvins on his Instagram leak?” referred to a social media slip up this summer, when Jacobs accidentally posted a nude picture destined for a lover to his Instagram account, captioned: “it’s yours to try!” Though he has shrugged off the incident with humour, even releasing a T-shirt with that caption as its slogan it must be nice to know with this remarkable show he has given the fashion industry something else to talk about. Guests were even given branded napkins and a program containing a quiz for true Marc Jacobs fans. One question “what colour were @themarcjacobs Calvins on his Instagram leak?” referred to a social media slip up this summer, when Jacobs accidentally posted a nude picture destined for a lover to his Instagram account, captioned: “it’s yours to try!” Though he has shrugged off the incident with humour, even releasing a T-shirt with that caption as its slogan. Still it must be nice to know that with this remarkable show he has given the fashion industry something else to talk about.