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| Cubans Have Mixed Opinions on Effect of Visit by Pope Francis | |
| (35 minutes later) | |
| HAVANA — In a dilapidated eatery in Old Havana, Josef Fonseca, 92, sat in a worn plastic chair Saturday evening watching the arrival of Pope Francis in Cuba on a television with a snowy screen. | HAVANA — In a dilapidated eatery in Old Havana, Josef Fonseca, 92, sat in a worn plastic chair Saturday evening watching the arrival of Pope Francis in Cuba on a television with a snowy screen. |
| Fonseca, an old truck driver who has been retired for decades, wept as the pope descended from the airplane to be greeted by President Raúl Castro. A small crowd of workers and pensioners gathered in silence to hear the speech, focused intently on the small TV. | Fonseca, an old truck driver who has been retired for decades, wept as the pope descended from the airplane to be greeted by President Raúl Castro. A small crowd of workers and pensioners gathered in silence to hear the speech, focused intently on the small TV. |
| Mr. Fonseca mopped his watery blue eyes with a pink rag. | Mr. Fonseca mopped his watery blue eyes with a pink rag. |
| “I’m a little emotional,” he said, his speech halting. “He’s a Latino, he understands us better. It’s not that the others have been bad, just that this one is different. This one gets closer to our humanity.” | “I’m a little emotional,” he said, his speech halting. “He’s a Latino, he understands us better. It’s not that the others have been bad, just that this one is different. This one gets closer to our humanity.” |
| The pontiff arrived in a nation brimming with anticipation. Though Cuba has received the last two popes, Francis is different for many Cubans: a Latin American who speaks of the ills of capitalist systems and about social equality — and who can do so in Spanish. | The pontiff arrived in a nation brimming with anticipation. Though Cuba has received the last two popes, Francis is different for many Cubans: a Latin American who speaks of the ills of capitalist systems and about social equality — and who can do so in Spanish. |
| On Friday night, a couple hundred young Catholics gathered in the courtyard of the Havana Cathedral. | On Friday night, a couple hundred young Catholics gathered in the courtyard of the Havana Cathedral. |
| They prayed, sang and embraced in the shadows of the church, stationed at the center of a secular country. A nun implored those gathered to let the love and mercy of God change their lives, as the image of Pope Francis was projected on the facade of the building. | They prayed, sang and embraced in the shadows of the church, stationed at the center of a secular country. A nun implored those gathered to let the love and mercy of God change their lives, as the image of Pope Francis was projected on the facade of the building. |
| Drawn from across the Havana area, the young Catholics closed their eyes. “This pope has done things differently,” whispered Eddie Gonzalez, 31, clutching a paddle with the pope’s image on it. “He has revolutionized the way the church approaches the world.” | Drawn from across the Havana area, the young Catholics closed their eyes. “This pope has done things differently,” whispered Eddie Gonzalez, 31, clutching a paddle with the pope’s image on it. “He has revolutionized the way the church approaches the world.” |
| That approach includes helping to broker the rapprochement between Cuba and the United States, a success that will echo throughout Francis’ trip to Cuba and the United States. | That approach includes helping to broker the rapprochement between Cuba and the United States, a success that will echo throughout Francis’ trip to Cuba and the United States. |
| “He is Argentine,” said Javier Molina Ortega, 59, noting the military dictatorship that Argentina lived under and the thousands of lives lost during the 1970s and early ’80s. “What happened there is worse than what happened here. I think he understands our problems well.” | “He is Argentine,” said Javier Molina Ortega, 59, noting the military dictatorship that Argentina lived under and the thousands of lives lost during the 1970s and early ’80s. “What happened there is worse than what happened here. I think he understands our problems well.” |
| But along with the pope’s arrival come questions: Will he speak publicly about political freedom, or will he walk the fine line between speaking his mind to the Cuban state without souring the mood of his hosts? How will he go about trying to expand the freedom of practice for Catholics in Cuba, who make up just 4 to 5 percent of the population? How will he go about attempting to expand the Catholic population at large — especially among Cubans, Latin America’s most aged population? | But along with the pope’s arrival come questions: Will he speak publicly about political freedom, or will he walk the fine line between speaking his mind to the Cuban state without souring the mood of his hosts? How will he go about trying to expand the freedom of practice for Catholics in Cuba, who make up just 4 to 5 percent of the population? How will he go about attempting to expand the Catholic population at large — especially among Cubans, Latin America’s most aged population? |
| “In our country, we have faith,” said Julio Pernoz Santiago, 26, who was at the gathering on Friday night in front of the Cathedral of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception. “At the moment, though, there are some discrepancies between religion and politics.” | “In our country, we have faith,” said Julio Pernoz Santiago, 26, who was at the gathering on Friday night in front of the Cathedral of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception. “At the moment, though, there are some discrepancies between religion and politics.” |
| In reality, those differences are perhaps at their smallest since the government swept into power after the 1959 revolution. Back then, Fidel Castro declared Cuba an atheist state and chased off religious leaders, in some cases even claiming the church’s properties. | In reality, those differences are perhaps at their smallest since the government swept into power after the 1959 revolution. Back then, Fidel Castro declared Cuba an atheist state and chased off religious leaders, in some cases even claiming the church’s properties. |
| But these days, the church enjoys a wider berth. The state is now considered secular by its Constitution. Struggling to fund its social programs, the government has allowed the church to pick up the slack — feeding the poor, providing clothing, offering limited classes and providing youth programs and activities. | But these days, the church enjoys a wider berth. The state is now considered secular by its Constitution. Struggling to fund its social programs, the government has allowed the church to pick up the slack — feeding the poor, providing clothing, offering limited classes and providing youth programs and activities. |
| Cubans share mixed opinions on the lasting effect that the pontiff’s visit will have. Some are confident that this is a symbolic moment that will expedite the state’s slow process of opening up to the world. Others think the visit is mere theatrics, another of the government’s attempts to appear to be changing while Cubans get by, on average, with $20 a month in earnings. | Cubans share mixed opinions on the lasting effect that the pontiff’s visit will have. Some are confident that this is a symbolic moment that will expedite the state’s slow process of opening up to the world. Others think the visit is mere theatrics, another of the government’s attempts to appear to be changing while Cubans get by, on average, with $20 a month in earnings. |
| “Life will stay the same,” said Mary Lahera Orta, 29. But even with her wariness, she allowed that the pope’s arrival was at least somewhat exciting. “O.K., sure, it’s nice, but things won’t get better.” | “Life will stay the same,” said Mary Lahera Orta, 29. But even with her wariness, she allowed that the pope’s arrival was at least somewhat exciting. “O.K., sure, it’s nice, but things won’t get better.” |
| Others were more optimistic. | Others were more optimistic. |
| “It won’t change everything, but it will change some things,” said Vilmar Aguilar, 40. “At the very least, it brings a message of peace and love to the nation.” | “It won’t change everything, but it will change some things,” said Vilmar Aguilar, 40. “At the very least, it brings a message of peace and love to the nation.” |
| Still others, while lavishing praise on the pope, argue that it is the government itself, led by Mr. Castro, that is bringing the change. “Everyone thinks it’s just the pope,” said Yosbany Cano Gancés, 39, a government worker. “But the real change has been coming from Raúl.” | Still others, while lavishing praise on the pope, argue that it is the government itself, led by Mr. Castro, that is bringing the change. “Everyone thinks it’s just the pope,” said Yosbany Cano Gancés, 39, a government worker. “But the real change has been coming from Raúl.” |
| Whatever the pope’s message is during his brief visit to Cuba, one thing he is not expected to do is meet with political dissidents. The decision has sparked criticism from certain crowds for taking what they view as a politically expedient route. | Whatever the pope’s message is during his brief visit to Cuba, one thing he is not expected to do is meet with political dissidents. The decision has sparked criticism from certain crowds for taking what they view as a politically expedient route. |
| “There is a deep concern that the pope will be exploited by the government, a sensitivity that he may come and they might not get recognition for the hardships they have observed,” said Candida R. Moss, a professor of early Christianity at the University of Notre Dame. | “There is a deep concern that the pope will be exploited by the government, a sensitivity that he may come and they might not get recognition for the hardships they have observed,” said Candida R. Moss, a professor of early Christianity at the University of Notre Dame. |
| For some Cubans, however, that hardly matters. Early Saturday morning, as the sun crept over the pastel montage of Havana, Ramon Rodríguez wheeled himself along a main avenue in the neighborhood of Marianao. | For some Cubans, however, that hardly matters. Early Saturday morning, as the sun crept over the pastel montage of Havana, Ramon Rodríguez wheeled himself along a main avenue in the neighborhood of Marianao. |
| The pope would be passing by, and he wanted to be ready. There wasn’t exactly competition. The bus station that he settled in front of was still closed, and aside from the occasional passer-by who waved or stopped to chat, he was alone. Traffic groaned by as the city awoke. | The pope would be passing by, and he wanted to be ready. There wasn’t exactly competition. The bus station that he settled in front of was still closed, and aside from the occasional passer-by who waved or stopped to chat, he was alone. Traffic groaned by as the city awoke. |
| “In the 1980s, religion here was difficult,” he said, adding that he was a practicing Catholic. “Fidel was our religion.” | “In the 1980s, religion here was difficult,” he said, adding that he was a practicing Catholic. “Fidel was our religion.” |
| “Now, it’s more normal,” he said. | “Now, it’s more normal,” he said. |