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Pope Francis in Cuba: pontiff arrives in Santiago - as it happened Pope Francis in Cuba: pontiff arrives in Santiago - as it happened
(17 days later)
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It is Pope Francis’s penultimate day in Cuba before heading to the US for his first ever visit to the country. Francis is credited with playing a key role in the easing of relations between the two countries, though the US economic embargo against Cuba remains.It is Pope Francis’s penultimate day in Cuba before heading to the US for his first ever visit to the country. Francis is credited with playing a key role in the easing of relations between the two countries, though the US economic embargo against Cuba remains.
The pontiff will deliver a homily at a Santiago church tomorrow before heading to Washington DC.The pontiff will deliver a homily at a Santiago church tomorrow before heading to Washington DC.
Here are some of the highlights of his trip from today:Here are some of the highlights of his trip from today:
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Pope Francis is in the village of El Cobre, praying to Our Lady of Charity in the Minor Basilica of the Shrine of Our Lady of Charity. He will give a homily there tomorrow at morning mass.Pope Francis is in the village of El Cobre, praying to Our Lady of Charity in the Minor Basilica of the Shrine of Our Lady of Charity. He will give a homily there tomorrow at morning mass.
Pope Francis, praying to Our Lady of Charity, also known as Our Lady of Copper. #PapaEnCuba. pic.twitter.com/4UPZPWj1FOPope Francis, praying to Our Lady of Charity, also known as Our Lady of Copper. #PapaEnCuba. pic.twitter.com/4UPZPWj1FO
#PapaEnCuba leaves a silver vase with his coat of arms and ceramic flowers at Shrine of Our Lady. pic.twitter.com/Fm2BWaCwP0#PapaEnCuba leaves a silver vase with his coat of arms and ceramic flowers at Shrine of Our Lady. pic.twitter.com/Fm2BWaCwP0
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Pope Francis travels to village of El Cobre in Santiago for a visit to Our Lady of the Charity.Pope Francis travels to village of El Cobre in Santiago for a visit to Our Lady of the Charity.
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While the Pope refrained from making overtly political statements during his first few days in Cuba, his audience may not have seen it that way, says John L Allen, associate editor of the news site Crux.While the Pope refrained from making overtly political statements during his first few days in Cuba, his audience may not have seen it that way, says John L Allen, associate editor of the news site Crux.
This is especially true, Allen says, because as a leader of a global religion, the Pope’s actions are “unavoidably political.” More in his analysis on Crux:This is especially true, Allen says, because as a leader of a global religion, the Pope’s actions are “unavoidably political.” More in his analysis on Crux:
When the pontiff invoked “change,” he seemed to have in mind primarily personal moral conversion. When he referred to a traitor, he was talking about the New Testament figure of Matthew, who was a tax collector for the Romans and thus considered a traitor to his own Jewish people.When the pontiff invoked “change,” he seemed to have in mind primarily personal moral conversion. When he referred to a traitor, he was talking about the New Testament figure of Matthew, who was a tax collector for the Romans and thus considered a traitor to his own Jewish people.
In other words, this was not party rhetoric but basic homiletics.In other words, this was not party rhetoric but basic homiletics.
Yet in the Cuban context, in which “change” is the watchword of everyone hoping for the island’s isolation and stagnation to end, and where generations have been raised to watch out for counter-revolutionary traitors, those terms still can’t help but have a political ring.Yet in the Cuban context, in which “change” is the watchword of everyone hoping for the island’s isolation and stagnation to end, and where generations have been raised to watch out for counter-revolutionary traitors, those terms still can’t help but have a political ring.
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Video from Pope Francis’s open mass in Holguín earlier today. More than 100,000 people gathered for the mass at Revolutionary Square.Video from Pope Francis’s open mass in Holguín earlier today. More than 100,000 people gathered for the mass at Revolutionary Square.
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Francis is meeting with bishops in Santiago before a prayer at the Minor Basilica of the Shrine of Our Lady of Charity of El Cobre. Similar to today, he has a packed schedule for tomorrow, when he makes his first trip to the US.Francis is meeting with bishops in Santiago before a prayer at the Minor Basilica of the Shrine of Our Lady of Charity of El Cobre. Similar to today, he has a packed schedule for tomorrow, when he makes his first trip to the US.
He’ll begin Tuesday back at the Minor Basilica for mass, where he will deliver a homily. Then, he’ll deliver a speech and meet with families at the Cathedral of our Lady of Assumption.He’ll begin Tuesday back at the Minor Basilica for mass, where he will deliver a homily. Then, he’ll deliver a speech and meet with families at the Cathedral of our Lady of Assumption.
The Pope and his entourage are due to leave Cuba around noon, heading to Andrews Air Force Base just outside of Washington DC. President Barack Obama is set to officially welcome him at the base, a rare gesture that has been extended to nearly no other world leader.The Pope and his entourage are due to leave Cuba around noon, heading to Andrews Air Force Base just outside of Washington DC. President Barack Obama is set to officially welcome him at the base, a rare gesture that has been extended to nearly no other world leader.
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Scenes from the Pope’s blessing of Holguín from the Loma de la Cruz.Scenes from the Pope’s blessing of Holguín from the Loma de la Cruz.
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More from Angela Bruno, who spotted this piece by BBC Mundo Miami Editor Lilet Heredero, who was born and raised in Cuba. She shed light on what it was like to grow up in the atheist Cuba of the 80s – and what it was like to enter a new world full of religion once she left.More from Angela Bruno, who spotted this piece by BBC Mundo Miami Editor Lilet Heredero, who was born and raised in Cuba. She shed light on what it was like to grow up in the atheist Cuba of the 80s – and what it was like to enter a new world full of religion once she left.
The whole story is in Spanish, here. Below, we’ve translated Heredero’s most revelatory memories.The whole story is in Spanish, here. Below, we’ve translated Heredero’s most revelatory memories.
A Very First EasterA Very First Easter
“When I left Cuba and experienced by first Holy Week, it was then only that I realized how removed my life had been from religion. … My reality was very different than that of other Latin American countries.“When I left Cuba and experienced by first Holy Week, it was then only that I realized how removed my life had been from religion. … My reality was very different than that of other Latin American countries.
I remember sitting with my friend under the spring London sun. She explained to me that during Easter, the resurrection of Christ was celebrated. … I didn’t have a clue.”I remember sitting with my friend under the spring London sun. She explained to me that during Easter, the resurrection of Christ was celebrated. … I didn’t have a clue.”
Praying to ChePraying to Che
“In school, we pledged allegiance to communism and our daily ‘prayer’ was dedicated to becoming just like Che. I don’t remember hearing about religion in any class. During that time, one of the most common catchphrases was Marx’s, ‘Religion is the opium of the people.’”“In school, we pledged allegiance to communism and our daily ‘prayer’ was dedicated to becoming just like Che. I don’t remember hearing about religion in any class. During that time, one of the most common catchphrases was Marx’s, ‘Religion is the opium of the people.’”
No Xmas, Just RevolutionNo Xmas, Just Revolution
“If you’re asking what happened during Christmas, I’ll tell you: We had a family dinner on the 24th and a party to await the 1st of January, known to us as the anniversary of the Revolution. No mention of Christ and no Christmas tree.”“If you’re asking what happened during Christmas, I’ll tell you: We had a family dinner on the 24th and a party to await the 1st of January, known to us as the anniversary of the Revolution. No mention of Christ and no Christmas tree.”
Hidden PrayersHidden Prayers
“The religious had to hide their beliefs if they didn’t want to lose their jobs or be expelled from the university. Some people had a very rough time – but that was never spoken of.”“The religious had to hide their beliefs if they didn’t want to lose their jobs or be expelled from the university. Some people had a very rough time – but that was never spoken of.”
Grandmothers and SaintsGrandmothers and Saints
“My two grandmothers never went back to church. Before the revolution, they went to mass every Sunday. But the two of them always hid their saint medallions in their chests. My maternal grandmother wore a medallion for the Lady of Charity, Cuba’s patron saint. My paternal grandmother wore one for Saint Jude, because according to her, it made miracles happen.”“My two grandmothers never went back to church. Before the revolution, they went to mass every Sunday. But the two of them always hid their saint medallions in their chests. My maternal grandmother wore a medallion for the Lady of Charity, Cuba’s patron saint. My paternal grandmother wore one for Saint Jude, because according to her, it made miracles happen.”
Goodbye to GodlessnessGoodbye to Godlessness
“When the Berlin wall fell, some of the winds of change could be felt in Cuba. … In the early ‘90s, the Communist Party admitted its first Catholic member.“When the Berlin wall fell, some of the winds of change could be felt in Cuba. … In the early ‘90s, the Communist Party admitted its first Catholic member.
During Cuba’s hard economic crisis, known as the Special Period, my grandmother returned to the church. She would come back home with canned meat, tuna and medicine.During Cuba’s hard economic crisis, known as the Special Period, my grandmother returned to the church. She would come back home with canned meat, tuna and medicine.
Every Sunday, the lines for the church in my neighborhood grew longer … they were several blocks long.Every Sunday, the lines for the church in my neighborhood grew longer … they were several blocks long.
In 1992, Cuba amended its constitution, leaving atheism behind and declared itself a secular state.”In 1992, Cuba amended its constitution, leaving atheism behind and declared itself a secular state.”
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Some insights in to what the Catholic clergy are up to while waiting for the Pope.Some insights in to what the Catholic clergy are up to while waiting for the Pope.
selfies have arrived in Cuba, btw pic.twitter.com/ldjVzVRSUvselfies have arrived in Cuba, btw pic.twitter.com/ldjVzVRSUv
Warming up the chair? pic.twitter.com/uxSfF7mXXEWarming up the chair? pic.twitter.com/uxSfF7mXXE
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Tomorrow, Francis heads to Washington DC, where he will become the first Pope to address Congress. The Capitol has put some measures in place in an attempt to deter politicians from overwhelming the pontiff with photo ops and handshakes.Tomorrow, Francis heads to Washington DC, where he will become the first Pope to address Congress. The Capitol has put some measures in place in an attempt to deter politicians from overwhelming the pontiff with photo ops and handshakes.
David Hawkings wrote in Roll Call about how Congressional leadership is looking for lawmakers to line the aisles and promise not to go for a papal handshake:David Hawkings wrote in Roll Call about how Congressional leadership is looking for lawmakers to line the aisles and promise not to go for a papal handshake:
All of them are on the same page about bending over backward to accommodate the Vatican’s expectations, which can summarized as “Look, but don’t touch,” lest Congress drive its record-low public approval even lower by coming across as collectively preening and boorish before a global television audience.All of them are on the same page about bending over backward to accommodate the Vatican’s expectations, which can summarized as “Look, but don’t touch,” lest Congress drive its record-low public approval even lower by coming across as collectively preening and boorish before a global television audience.
The first manifestation of that was last week’s “courtesy notice” delivered to all senators and House members, over the signatures of the top four leaders, offering this behavioral guidance: “Out of respect for the pope’s schedule and the expectation of a timely address, we respectfully request that you assist us by refraining from handshakes and conversations along and down the center aisle.”The first manifestation of that was last week’s “courtesy notice” delivered to all senators and House members, over the signatures of the top four leaders, offering this behavioral guidance: “Out of respect for the pope’s schedule and the expectation of a timely address, we respectfully request that you assist us by refraining from handshakes and conversations along and down the center aisle.”
But the bosses are assuming their ask is going to be ignored — by the most fervently faithful Catholic lawmakers, who won’t be able to risk trying to kiss the papal ring or touch the hem of his cassock, as well as by many of the most publicity-driven members, desperate to make it into the same TV frame as Francis and get photographed glad-handing or even hugging him.But the bosses are assuming their ask is going to be ignored — by the most fervently faithful Catholic lawmakers, who won’t be able to risk trying to kiss the papal ring or touch the hem of his cassock, as well as by many of the most publicity-driven members, desperate to make it into the same TV frame as Francis and get photographed glad-handing or even hugging him.
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The Pope’s visit has offered a platform to celebrate Cuban music, says my colleague Angela Bruno.The Pope’s visit has offered a platform to celebrate Cuban music, says my colleague Angela Bruno.
Yami Montoya, a Cuban journalist, said on Twitter: “Cuban rhythms, faith and culture are present in today’s in today’s holy celebration conducted by Pope Francis in Holguín”Yami Montoya, a Cuban journalist, said on Twitter: “Cuban rhythms, faith and culture are present in today’s in today’s holy celebration conducted by Pope Francis in Holguín”
Paloma Ovejero, correspondent for Spain’s COPE, captured musicians playing at this morning’s mass in Holguín.Paloma Ovejero, correspondent for Spain’s COPE, captured musicians playing at this morning’s mass in Holguín.
The video prompted Twitter user José Sierra to remark on the Pontiff’s restraint: “How difficult it is not to dance or move, even just a little bit, while listening to this music!”The video prompted Twitter user José Sierra to remark on the Pontiff’s restraint: “How difficult it is not to dance or move, even just a little bit, while listening to this music!”
@pgovejero Qué dificilísimo es de no bailar o no moverse ni siquiera un poquito, al escuchar esta música. #PapaEnCuba #Holguín@pgovejero Qué dificilísimo es de no bailar o no moverse ni siquiera un poquito, al escuchar esta música. #PapaEnCuba #Holguín
Pero qué música!!! Pero qué Cuba esta!!! Toma Aleluya @cope_es #ElPapaenCuba pic.twitter.com/7Qi7RYY040Pero qué música!!! Pero qué Cuba esta!!! Toma Aleluya @cope_es #ElPapaenCuba pic.twitter.com/7Qi7RYY040
Ovejero wrote: “What music! This country that is Cuba!”Ovejero wrote: “What music! This country that is Cuba!”
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Catechism students and musicians are waiting for the Pope in Santiago, where he has just landed.Catechism students and musicians are waiting for the Pope in Santiago, where he has just landed.
Un grupo de niños de la catequesis de la Caridad del Cobre se prepara para dar la bienvenida al @Pontifex_es mañana pic.twitter.com/SQhNt2Bi24Un grupo de niños de la catequesis de la Caridad del Cobre se prepara para dar la bienvenida al @Pontifex_es mañana pic.twitter.com/SQhNt2Bi24
Los santiagueros esperan a ritmo de son al @Pontifex_es #PapaEnCuba pic.twitter.com/q5eFulxERULos santiagueros esperan a ritmo de son al @Pontifex_es #PapaEnCuba pic.twitter.com/q5eFulxERU
In the above video from AP reporter Teresa de Miguel, the lead singer belts out, “How good it is to wait for the Pope, this town of Santiago is waiting for the Pope …”In the above video from AP reporter Teresa de Miguel, the lead singer belts out, “How good it is to wait for the Pope, this town of Santiago is waiting for the Pope …”
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Pope Francis arrives in SantiagoPope Francis arrives in Santiago
The papal plane has landed in Santiago, where it was met by cheering, flag-waving crowds.The papal plane has landed in Santiago, where it was met by cheering, flag-waving crowds.
Pope Francis will spend the evening meeting and praying with bishops.Pope Francis will spend the evening meeting and praying with bishops.
Tomorrow morning, he is scheduled to deliver a homily and speech in Santiago, before flying to Washington DC in the afternoon for his first visit to the US.Tomorrow morning, he is scheduled to deliver a homily and speech in Santiago, before flying to Washington DC in the afternoon for his first visit to the US.
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Democratic presidential hopeful Martin O’Malley, the only Catholic running from that party (so far), wrote an editorial for National Catholic Reporter about the Pope’s visit to the US.
O’Malley agrees with Francis’s stance on climate change and economic inequality, issues that have been more difficult for the six Catholic Republicans running for president to discuss.
This, I believe, is why so many people — not only Catholics, but people of so many creeds and faiths, and those who profess to not have religious faith — are energized by Pope Francis’ message. He is a reformer, but one who creates change by “letting the light in” so all of us can see the truth and act upon that truth. As he works to heal wounds and divisions within his own church, he inspires millions of others: to embrace those who have been marginalized by poverty or discrimination; to act now to head off the devastation of climate change for the sake of our “common home,” this one earth; and to reach out and help those most in need.
What does the call of his message hold for us as citizens of the United States?
Pope Francis will undoubtedly challenge America with a question: At a time of growing inequality, entrenched poverty, and widespread uncertainty and unrest in the world, will we be a force for healing and reconciliation? Or, out of fear for ourselves and distrust of the unknown, will we turn our backs on the work of waging peace, as a moral leader among nations?
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The live feed in Cuba shows that the Pope’s Alitalia jet has left from Holguín for Santiago, reports the Guardian’s Latin America correspondent Jonathan Watts, who is in Havana.
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Soon, Pope Francis will pray at the Shrine of Our Lady of Charity of El Cobre, the patron saint of Cuba. To the country’s many Santería followers, this will look like him honoring their deity, Ochún.
A survey conducted earlier this year showed that about 13% of Cuba’s population practices Santería, the syncretic religion with ties to Catholic saints.
The Guardian’s Jonathan Watts reports from Havana:
Eduardo Marrero, a pensioner, wearing a green Santería bracelet said that he occasionally went to church, but that he sought help from Santería priests for specific problems, such as health issues, or wishes, including more wealth or a longer life. Once a year or so, he sacrifices a chicken to the saints. “I have faith in both. They complement one another,” he said.
Throughout history, the Catholic church has had a somewhat awkward relationship with such syncretic religions. At times, priests have described them as the work of the devil. Today, however, they are more tolerant, partly because congregations would probably fall dramatically if Santería followers were excluded.
“There have been worried about this, but I don’t think syncretism damages the church. It’s not prohibited,” said Cirilo Castro, a priest. “When people come on Sundays, some are devout, some are pragmatic and some are Santería believers. But they all take their place and they are all respectful.”
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The scene from Santiago hours before the Pope arrives:
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After a few minutes on Loma de la Cruz, the Pope headed back down the hill to the Holguín airport, where he will take a short trip south to Santiago, Cuba’s second largest city.
There, he will meet with bishops before holding a prayer with them and his entourage at the Minor Basilica of the Shrine of Our Lady of Charity of El Cobre.
Boarding for Santiago. #PapaEnCuba pic.twitter.com/W53YMzQNUW
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Pope Francis is near the summit of Loma de la Cruz (Cross Hill), where he is preparing to bless the city of Holguín. A children’s choir sang Ode to Joy just before the ceremony began.
.@Pontifex about to offer solemn blessing over entire city of Holguin, Cuba. #PapaEnCuba pic.twitter.com/aNb4HHqOFR
Pope Francis to the chorus of children: You sing very well. And please, don't forget, pray for me! #PapaEnCuba pic.twitter.com/b2KHxD9cDx
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In less than an hour, Pope Francis will bless the city of Holguín from Loma de la Cruz, a hill that is topped by a wooden cross. The city is on the eastern part of the island and it is the first time it has hosted a Pope.
He delivered a homily at a mass at the city’s Plaza de la Revolución earlier today:
I know the efforts and the sacrifices being made by the Church in Cuba to bring Christ’s word and presence to all, even in the most remote areas. Here I would mention especially the “mission houses” which, given the shortage of churches and priests, provide for many people a place for prayer, for listening to the word of God, for catechesis and community life. They are small signs of God’s presence in our neighborhoods and a daily aid in our effort to respond to the plea of the apostle Paul: “I beg you to lead a life worthy of the calling to which you have been called, with all lowliness and meekness, forbearing one another in love, eager to maintain the unity of the Spirit in the bond of peace” (cf. Eph 4:1-3).
I now turn my eyes to the Virgin Mary, Our Lady of Charity of El Cobre, whom Cuba embraced and to whom it opened its doors forever. I ask Our Lady to look with maternal love on all her children in this noble country. May her “eyes of mercy” ever keep watch over each of you, your homes, your families, and all those who feel that they have no place. In her love, may she protect us all as she once cared for Jesus.
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More from my colleague Angela Bruno.
Anti-Castro activists have been sharing this image on Twitter, showing what appears to be the arrest of members of the Ladies in White – an opposition group campaigning for the release of detained relatives.
The quote bubble above the Pope’s head reads, “Everything’s good, General Castro.”
RT @KarelBecerra: Visita del #PapaEnCuba #Cuba #PopeinUS #PopeFrancis pic.twitter.com/9BEJB2pvBk
Numerous pro-democracy activists have been detained by Cuban security forces and prevented from attending the Pope’s events over the last two days, including 22 of the 24 members of the Ladies in White.
It is not clear when this picture was taken, but it is in sharp contrast to the whimsical Pope emojis and Pope paraphernalia that have emerged stateside.
This kind of criticism runs through an opinion piece by Guardian contributor Alfredo José Estrada, who says that Cubans – and especially Cuban Americans – want the pope to hold the Castros accountable:
Conservative Cuban Americans gave stink-eye to the pope’s active involvement in negotiations between Obama and Castro. He not only sent each of them a personal letter of encouragement, but also hosted secret meetings within the walls of the Vatican. Having put his credibility on the line, he also has much riding on the success of the trip.
This includes efforts to increase the influence of the Church in Cuba. Much has changed since John Paul’s visit – Christmas and Good Friday are once again national holidays. Cuba remains the most restrictive place in Latin America for Catholics: for instance, the Church is not allowed to operate elementary and secondary schools. Francis would also like to obtain the return of confiscated church properties, such as Belen, the Jesuit high school where Fidel Castro was educated.
His religious efforts, too, get mixed reviews from Cuban Americans, who accuse the Church of accommodating a corrupt regime in service of its aims. Cuban Archbishop Jaime Ortega (who also welcomed John Paul and Benedict to Cuba) has been criticized for cozying up to the Castros and ignoring the plight of dissidents. Equally troubling to my parents is Raul’s unusually close relationship with the pope, which has encompassed multiple meetings between the two. In the early years of the Revolution, by contrast, Raul was his brother’s enforcer, an unflinching Marxist ideologue; recently he has become more pragmatic, and after meeting with the Pope said he might even rejoin the faith. Many Cuban exiles regard him as a war criminal and mass murderer.
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In Philadelphia, where the Pope is due for a visit on Saturday and Sunday, residents are being warned about how Francis’s trip will affect their ability to buy liquor and send mail.
Guardian US deputy sports editor Bryan Graham, a native Philadelphian, captured some of the preparation this past weekend.
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