Little Serow review: Thai food turned up to 11
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Version 0 of 1. This review appears in The Washington Post’s 2015 Fall Dining Guide. Little Serow Yes, you’ll probably have to wait in line if you want to eat during the first seating, and, no, the kitchen can’t accommodate fussy eaters. Little Serow packs heat, meat and nuts into its menu, just as cooks all across Northern Thailand do. The payoff — for standing outside, for an adventurous palate — is eight or so courses of food that’s “spicy and loud,” as our enthusiastic server explains, pointing out that the basket of herbs and a pouch of sticky rice are there to refresh the palate and swab sauces. My companion, a novice to the strangely green basement venue from Johnny Monis, the chef-owner of the neighboring Komi, can’t stop smiling. “Everyone is so NICE here!” Nor can my guest put her spoon down after she samples her first taste of ma hor: Plums, pineapple, dried shrimp and pork — by turns sweet and hot — have that effect on a person. Same with soft eggplant and green beans garnished with mint and shaved cured duck egg, a tart contrast to the first small plate. Shredded catfish is preceded by “a little fire extinguisher,” a server says, pouring a gratis glass of bubbly to tame the flames of tropical spices and the stab of galangal. Bringing up the rear are the softest pork ribs in town, sweetened with whiskey and sprinkled with dill. The family-style feast remains $45 a person, the same price charged when the Thai thriller opened four years ago. What has changed is my reaction to what’s proved to be one of the most consistent and polished performances in Washington. Welcome to the four-star club, Little Serow. → 4 stars Little Serow: 1511 17th St. NW. No phone. www.littleserow.com. Open: Dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Prices: Prix fixe $45. Sound check: 87 decibels / Extremely loud. The Top 10: No. 10: The Grill Room No. 9: Komi No. 8: G by Mike Isabella No. 7: Garrison No. 6: The Riggsby No. 5: The Inn at Little Washington No. 3: Masseria No. 2 Rasika/Rasika West End No. 1 Rose’s Luxury |