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An insider's guide to Montevideo: a mix of tranquility and vibrant culture An insider's guide to Montevideo: a mix of tranquility and vibrant culture
(about 3 hours later)
In five wordsIn five words
The Rambla, mate, blue skies …The Rambla, mate, blue skies …
Sound of the city?Sound of the city?
Ferias are noisy street markets that happen once a week in every neighbourhood. You can buy fruit, fish and veggies straight from the farms.Ferias are noisy street markets that happen once a week in every neighbourhood. You can buy fruit, fish and veggies straight from the farms.
Everyone’s tuning intoEveryone’s tuning into
Tiranos Temblad is a Youtube show created and narrated by Agustin Ferrando. The show gathers, in an eight to 10-minute clip, all Uruguay-related activity from Youtube over the previous couple of weeks. Its 71 editions have had a huge impact on many of the million or so Uruguayans living abroad. It was even mentioned on a speech by Cristina Fernández, the Argentine president. Tiranos Temblad is a Youtube show created and narrated by Agustin Ferrando. The show gathers, in an eight to 10-minute clip, all Uruguay-related activity from Youtube over the previous couple of weeks. Its 71 editions have had a huge impact on many of the million or so Uruguayans living abroad. It was even mentioned in a speech by Cristina Fernández, the Argentine president.
Best venue?Best venue?
El Bajo. Not long ago, these blocks in the Old City of Montevideo were abandoned and it wasn’t a place where I would recommend people go. But a couple of years ago, a group of artists and entrepreneurs took the place over and refurbished it. Now El Bajo is home to visual artists, an underground theatre, artistic residences, photography, art and design exhibitions and trendy shops. It’s a must for the informed visitor.El Bajo. Not long ago, these blocks in the Old City of Montevideo were abandoned and it wasn’t a place where I would recommend people go. But a couple of years ago, a group of artists and entrepreneurs took the place over and refurbished it. Now El Bajo is home to visual artists, an underground theatre, artistic residences, photography, art and design exhibitions and trendy shops. It’s a must for the informed visitor.
Who’s top of the playlist?Who’s top of the playlist?
Musician, composer and producer Riki Musso may be over 50 years old, but he definitely seems younger. For over 25 years he was a part of the Latin Grammy winning local band El Cuarteto de Nos, but left in 2009 over creative differences. In 2014, his solo album Formidable was a big hit and was the big winner at the local music awards – the Graffitis. It goes from pop to rock and samba, passing through Candombe and features his trademark touch – humour.Musician, composer and producer Riki Musso may be over 50 years old, but he definitely seems younger. For over 25 years he was a part of the Latin Grammy winning local band El Cuarteto de Nos, but left in 2009 over creative differences. In 2014, his solo album Formidable was a big hit and was the big winner at the local music awards – the Graffitis. It goes from pop to rock and samba, passing through Candombe and features his trademark touch – humour.
Best local artistBest local artist
Recently Montevideo had an election for the city’s mayor and an artist, Alfredo Ghierra, introduced himself as a fake candidate. His campaign, called Ghierra Intendente (Ghierra for Mayor), was more performance than politics. Besides a very cool TV spot, the campaign included a three-floor exhibition with more than 40 real projects for the city created by Ghierra and his crew.Recently Montevideo had an election for the city’s mayor and an artist, Alfredo Ghierra, introduced himself as a fake candidate. His campaign, called Ghierra Intendente (Ghierra for Mayor), was more performance than politics. Besides a very cool TV spot, the campaign included a three-floor exhibition with more than 40 real projects for the city created by Ghierra and his crew.
The proposals for the city included a map of fruit trees, the creation of an underground parking space, public easels for painters and pulpits for giving speeches.The proposals for the city included a map of fruit trees, the creation of an underground parking space, public easels for painters and pulpits for giving speeches.
What’s the look on the street?What’s the look on the street?
Uruguayans in general are not very concerned with fashion. But there is of course a placefor fashion in the city and Blogcouture is one of the first fashion blogs in the country. Their articles and social media posts reflect the looks and trends of Montevideo’s elite. Uruguayans in general are not very concerned with fashion. But there is of course a place for fashion in the city and Blogcouture is one of the first fashion blogs in the country. Their articles and social media posts reflect the looks and trends of Montevideo’s elite.
Best cultural InstagramBest cultural Instagram
Fernanda Montoro uses simple lines, finding old environments with a sense of calm. She is a lovely photographer with a unique sensibility that captures the spirit of our city.Fernanda Montoro uses simple lines, finding old environments with a sense of calm. She is a lovely photographer with a unique sensibility that captures the spirit of our city.
Everyone’s talking about …Everyone’s talking about …
Education. Former president Pepe Mujica talked about “education, education, education” when he assumedthe presidency in 2010, and it is still the hottest topic today. Even though every child in school now has their own laptop computer, the results are not filtering through and young Uruguayans are quitting school early. The money destined for education is not enough and teacher’s unions went of strike for 29 days this year, demanding 6% of the national budget. Education. Former president Pepe Mujica talked about “education, education, education” when he assumed the presidency in 2010, and it is still the hottest topic today. Even though every child in school now has their own laptop computer, the results are not filtering through and young Uruguayans are quitting school early. The money destined for education is not enough and teacher’s unions went of strike for 29 days this year, demanding 6% of the national budget.
What Montevideo does better than anywhere else …What Montevideo does better than anywhere else …
If we’re talking about music, what we do best is Candombe. Candombe is very powerful and is the most traditional Uruguayan sound. It is played with three drums: chico, repique and piano (alto, tenor and bass). Every neighbourhood has a comparsa, each with its own signature musical cadence.If we’re talking about music, what we do best is Candombe. Candombe is very powerful and is the most traditional Uruguayan sound. It is played with three drums: chico, repique and piano (alto, tenor and bass). Every neighbourhood has a comparsa, each with its own signature musical cadence.
Llamadas is the main Candombe event of the year and takes place for two days on the same street it used to a hundred years ago – Isla de Flores. All the comparsas compete for the honour of first place. Many residents of the street rent their balconies to visitors. It is the best time of the year to visit Montevideo.Llamadas is the main Candombe event of the year and takes place for two days on the same street it used to a hundred years ago – Isla de Flores. All the comparsas compete for the honour of first place. Many residents of the street rent their balconies to visitors. It is the best time of the year to visit Montevideo.
Moment from historyMoment from history
The Generación del 45 was a group of writers and artists who had a huge social, political and cultural influence locally and regionally that continues today. For me, they were the last movement of real substance that gave identity to Uruguayans. Bright, intimate and critical, they found leadership in the novelist Juan Carlos Onetti. Other members of the bohemian group included Carlos Maggi, Idea Vilariño, Manuel Fores Mora, José Pedro Díaz, Amanda Berenguer, Tola Invernizzi, Líber Falco and Ida Vitale.The Generación del 45 was a group of writers and artists who had a huge social, political and cultural influence locally and regionally that continues today. For me, they were the last movement of real substance that gave identity to Uruguayans. Bright, intimate and critical, they found leadership in the novelist Juan Carlos Onetti. Other members of the bohemian group included Carlos Maggi, Idea Vilariño, Manuel Fores Mora, José Pedro Díaz, Amanda Berenguer, Tola Invernizzi, Líber Falco and Ida Vitale.
Best street artBest street art
Alfalfa is the alias of Nicolás Sánchez. He was born in Venezuela but has Uruguayan parents and now lives here. A couple of years ago the streets of Montevideo started to get some new inhabitants – creatures from the sea and mythological monsters painted by Alfalfa with great skill and detail.Alfalfa is the alias of Nicolás Sánchez. He was born in Venezuela but has Uruguayan parents and now lives here. A couple of years ago the streets of Montevideo started to get some new inhabitants – creatures from the sea and mythological monsters painted by Alfalfa with great skill and detail.
From MeFrom Me
María Zanocchi is a film and advertising producer and art lover. She enjoys writing and cooking, and is seven months pregnant with Antonia.María Zanocchi is a film and advertising producer and art lover. She enjoys writing and cooking, and is seven months pregnant with Antonia.
Five to FollowFive to Follow
Fran CunhaFran Cunha
Diego RosenblattDiego Rosenblatt
Gonzalo FrascaGonzalo Frasca
LevedadLevedad
Teo y la MaquinaTeo y la Maquina