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Welcome to Richie McCaw country – the town that made an All Blacks legend Welcome to Richie McCaw country – the town that made an All Blacks legend
(about 4 hours later)
Dusk has fallen on the sleepy New Zealand farming township of Kurow and at the eponymous hotel there is only one topic of conversation tonight. Dusk has fallen on the sleepy New Zealand farming township of Kurow and at the eponymous hotel there is only one topic of conversation.
“Richie was always fizzing,” says Andrew Gard, 34, nursing a litre bottle of DB, and dressed in a dark green fleece and sweat- stained bucket hat. “Richie was always fizzing,” says Andrew Gard, 34, nursing a litre bottle of DB and dressed in a dark green fleece and sweat- stained bucket hat. “Just so alive, so alive.”
“Just so alive, so alive.”
The childhood friend Gard refers to is Richie McCaw – captain of the All Blacks – who on Saturday will walk out on to the Twickenham turf in the Rugby World Cup final against their arch rivals, Australia.The childhood friend Gard refers to is Richie McCaw – captain of the All Blacks – who on Saturday will walk out on to the Twickenham turf in the Rugby World Cup final against their arch rivals, Australia.
At that game’s final whistle, he is also expected to walk into retirement – and so conclude one of the most illustrious and record-breaking rugby careers of all time. At the game’s final whistle, he is expected to walk into retirement – alongside fellow team mates Keven Mealamu, Dan Carter, Ma’a Nonu and Conrad Smith – and so conclude one of the most illustrious and record-breaking rugby careers of all time.
For Gard and the people of McCaw’s hometown (population 350), it will be the final Test of 148 played by their local farm boy “done good” – 109 as captain.For Gard and the people of McCaw’s hometown (population 350), it will be the final Test of 148 played by their local farm boy “done good” – 109 as captain.
And although there is much speculation about McCaw’s direction after rugby – the corporate world? flying? – Kurow residents don’t care; they know their boy can do anything he wants to. And although there is much speculation about McCaw’s direction after rugby – the corporate world? flying? – Kurow residents do not care; they know their boy can do anything he wants to.
Gard speaks in measured, thoughtful tones as he remembers the early days that made McCaw the fearless, confident man he is today; a childhood when the two boys rode tractors on the McCaw family farm, had sleepovers and fished for trout in the McCaws’ pond.Gard speaks in measured, thoughtful tones as he remembers the early days that made McCaw the fearless, confident man he is today; a childhood when the two boys rode tractors on the McCaw family farm, had sleepovers and fished for trout in the McCaws’ pond.
“Richie got noticed early because he was going where the ball was going to be, instead of where it was,” says Gard.“Richie got noticed early because he was going where the ball was going to be, instead of where it was,” says Gard.
“If you ever go and watch kids play rugby, they are chasing the ball like bees around a honey pot. But Richie was always two phases ahead, predicting the next state of play.“If you ever go and watch kids play rugby, they are chasing the ball like bees around a honey pot. But Richie was always two phases ahead, predicting the next state of play.
“He’s hard alright – and a big, boisterous country bastard from up the haka [valley]. But there’s so much more to him than that. It has always made sense to me, how well he’s done.”“He’s hard alright – and a big, boisterous country bastard from up the haka [valley]. But there’s so much more to him than that. It has always made sense to me, how well he’s done.”
The Kurow hotel’s TV has been playing All Blacks rugby games on loop since sundown, and bets are flying as jugs of Speight’s beer flow. From every table you hear the same name whispered, shouted and bellowed: McCaw, Richard, Richie. The Kurow hotel’s TV has been playing All Blacks rugby games on a loop since sundown and bets are flying as jugs of Speight’s beer flow. From every table, you hear the same name whispered, shouted and bellowed: McCaw, Richard, Richie.
“Hey mate, if the All Blacks win by 30 points, you gotta mow my lawns for a year!” a local shearer yells to his friend across the pool table.“Hey mate, if the All Blacks win by 30 points, you gotta mow my lawns for a year!” a local shearer yells to his friend across the pool table.
Kurow sits on an isolated stretch of State Highway 83 between the gliding centre of Omarama and the seaside port of Oamaru. The main drag – Bledisloe Street – is wide and nondescript, with a handful of coffee shops, two pubs and no traffic lights. Humble would be an understatement. Kurow sits on an isolated stretch of State Highway 83 between the gliding centre of Omarama and the seaside port of Oamaru. The main drag, Bledisloe Street, is wide and nondescript, with a handful of coffee shops, two pubs and no traffic lights. Humble would be an understatement.
The Waitaki Valley is good farming country, lush and fertile, and the McCaw family are renowned in the district as excellent farmers, and top notch, salt-of-the-earth people.The Waitaki Valley is good farming country, lush and fertile, and the McCaw family are renowned in the district as excellent farmers, and top notch, salt-of-the-earth people.
In Kurow no one has a bad word to say about them – or “Haka Jack”, as McCaw was known as a kid. In Kurow, no one has a bad word to say about them – or “Haka Jack”, as McCaw was known as a kid.
Related: Rugby World Cup final: everything you need to know
Richard Hugh McCaw, 34, grew up in the isolated Hakataramea Valley, about six miles (10km) north of Kurow. The land is rich, undulating and picturesque – in the spring a vivid palette of deep green grass, hazy purple mountains and mauve blossom trees. An oasis for any child, let alone one who thrived outdoors.Richard Hugh McCaw, 34, grew up in the isolated Hakataramea Valley, about six miles (10km) north of Kurow. The land is rich, undulating and picturesque – in the spring a vivid palette of deep green grass, hazy purple mountains and mauve blossom trees. An oasis for any child, let alone one who thrived outdoors.
“Richard was impeccably brought up: good behaviour wasn’t asked for – it was expected,” says his former primary school teacher, Kate Pavletich, 71, who has known McCaw since he was born. Related: Rugby World Cup final: everything you need to know
“The man I see today is the same one I saw as a boy. He hasn’t changed, not on the inside.” “Richard was impeccably brought up: good behaviour wasn’t asked for – it was expected,” says his former primary school teacher, Kate Pavletich, 71, who has known McCaw since he was born. “The man I see today is the same one I saw as a boy. He hasn’t changed, not on the inside.”
Pavletich is especially proud she hounded McCaw and his classmates to learn the New Zealand national anthem by heart. “I always told them, you’ll never know when you have to sing it!” she laughs. Pavletich is especially proud she hounded McCaw and his classmates to learn the New Zealand national anthem by heart. “I always told them, you’ll never know when you have to sing it,” she laughs.
“Richie was your typical farm boy – absolutely lived for rugby and farming. He was very even, very balanced and still is. I didn’t know he’d be an All Black then, but I always knew he’d be a leader. He demands so much of himself, and he demands that from everyone around him too. Richie doesn’t suffer fools lightly.” “Richie was your typical farm boy – absolutely lived for rugby and farming. He was very even, very balanced and still is. I didn’t know he’d be an All Black then, but I always knew he’d be a leader. He demands so much of himself and he demands that from everyone around him, too. Richie doesn’t suffer fools lightly.”
Barney McCone, 69, coached McCaw at Kurow rugby club from the age of five to 13, when he left town to attend school at Otago Boys High in Dunedin.Barney McCone, 69, coached McCaw at Kurow rugby club from the age of five to 13, when he left town to attend school at Otago Boys High in Dunedin.
McCone remembers a quiet, dedicated kid – “burly and thick-set” – who spoke few words on the pitch but easily commanded respect from his peers.McCone remembers a quiet, dedicated kid – “burly and thick-set” – who spoke few words on the pitch but easily commanded respect from his peers.
“Margaret [McCaw’s mother], rang me up before he was of age to play and said: ‘Can you please take him? He’s driving me up the wall’,” says McCone, a lifetime Kurow farmer.“Margaret [McCaw’s mother], rang me up before he was of age to play and said: ‘Can you please take him? He’s driving me up the wall’,” says McCone, a lifetime Kurow farmer.
“When Richard turned up he was just full on; his natural reflexes and instincts are tremendous. He’d be running away with the ball before the other kids had even got it into their heads to think about moving. But talent’s only part of it – Richard has got to where he is now because he worked for it.” “When Richard turned up, he was just full on; his natural reflexes and instincts are tremendous. He’d be running away with the ball before the other kids had even got it into their heads to think about moving. But talent’s only part of it – Richard has got to where he is now because he worked for it.”
With the World Cup final on Saturday, Kurow is rapidly transforming itself into a monochrome of black and white. All Blacks flags hang in the window of every second house, and a 4.8m image of McCaw on the main street has been joined by two giant painted hay bales, depicting a couple of Kiwi birds eating a French frog and a South African antelope. With the World Cup final on Saturday, Kurow is rapidly transforming itself into a monochrome of black and white. All Blacks flags hang in the window of every second house and a 4.8m image of McCaw on the main street has been joined by two giant painted hay bales, depicting a couple of Kiwi birds eating a French frog and a South African antelope.
“Richie is a good guy, a good bastard – the sort of friend you’d want,” says Big Al McDonald, who manages the River Café and Takeaway on Bledisloe Street. “Richie is a good guy, a good bastard – the sort of friend you’d want,” says Big Al McDonald, who manages the River Café and Takeaway on Bledisloe Street. “When he comes to Kurow, he’ll line up for his fish and chips just like everyone else, never skips ahead or nothing.”
“When he comes to Kurow he’ll line up for his fish and chips just like everyone else, never skips ahead or nothing.” Gavin McCaw, McCaw’s cousin, grew up three farms away in the Haka Valley. When McCaw was a teenager, Gavin called him up to lend a hand in the shearing sheds and recalls a kid with boundless energy. “He wouldn’t climb over the sheep gates like a normal fella, he’d leap over them. When he comes to the Kurow pub, you’d never guess who he was, he just acts like a regular old local. But of course, the world’s his oyster.”
Gavin McCaw, McCaw’s cousin, grew up three farms away in the Haka Valley. When McCaw was a teenager, Gavin called him up to lend a hand in the shearing sheds, and recalls a kid “with boundless energy”. The world knows McCaw for his rugby talent and his leadership skills. But in Kurow he is remembered as the clever country boy who was brought up with strong family values and a genuine love for and interest in the farming community around him.
“He wouldn’t climb over the sheep gates like a normal fella, he’d leap over them,” says Gavin McCaw. “When Richard visits, we don’t talk about rugby,” says his former coach McCone. “We talk about the valley, who’s with who, how the farms are going – just local gossip really. Richard manages the pressure of the spotlight because it isn’t who he is – who he is is a really decent farming kid from Kurow and that won’t ever change.”
“When he comes to the Kurow pub, you’d never guess who he was, he just acts like a regular old local. But of course, the world’s his oyster.” A lot of people in Kurow reckon they will not be able to watchMcCaw’s final outing on the world stage – they’ will be too sick, too nervous.
Related: Richie McCaw prepares to leave black hole in heart of New Zealand But Andrew Gard is not fussed. He will go to the Kurow pub at 5am because “it’ll be a bit of a party”. Who will win? He shrugs his shoulders nonchalantly and grins.
The world knows McCaw for his rugby talent and his leadership skills. But in Kurow he’s remembered as the clever country boy who was brought up with strong family values, and a genuine love for and interest in the farming community around him. “When we used to play club matches, Richie would always get growled at by the coaches for getting his uniform dirty before the game,” says Gard. “He’d be diving around the field, rolling on the ground, all that sort of carry on. But that’s just typical Richie, eh? Right into it. Life, I mean.”
“When Richard visits, we don’t talk about rugby,” says old coach Barney McCone.
“We talk about the valley, who’s with who, how the farms are going – just local gossip really. Richard manages the pressure of the spotlight because it isn’t who he is – who he is is a really decent farming kid from Kurow, and that won’t ever change.”
A lot of people in Kurow reckon they won’t be able to watchMcCaw’s final outing on the world stage – they’ll be too sick, too nervous.
But Andrew Gard isn’t fussed. He’ll go to the Kurow pub at 5am because “it’ll be a bit of a party”. Who will win? He shrugs his shoulders nonchalantly and grins.
“When we used to play club matches, Richie would always get growled at by the coaches for getting his uniform dirty before the game,” says Gard.
“He’d be diving around the field, rolling on the ground, all that sort of carry on. But that’s just typical Richie, eh? Right into it. Life, I mean.”