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Maison Margiela menswear is a chip off the eastern bloc Maison Margiela menswear is a chip off the eastern bloc
(7 months later)
To some, the menswear catwalks are the poor relations to their female equivalents – a trouser-heavy prologue to the haute couture shows that begin in Paris on Sunday. But those people have not been paying attention. Right now, menswear in the French capital is having a burst of creative energy.To some, the menswear catwalks are the poor relations to their female equivalents – a trouser-heavy prologue to the haute couture shows that begin in Paris on Sunday. But those people have not been paying attention. Right now, menswear in the French capital is having a burst of creative energy.
Both on and off the catwalk, a look is emerging from the Paris autumn/winter 2016 menswear shows. It isn’t a trend as such, more a long-term shift in the way men who care about clothes are dressing, which blurs the lines between smart and casual. It is a haphazard, almost accidental way of dressing – padded coats over smart trousers, giant trapper hats worn with tailored pieces, tracksuit bottoms worn too high at the waist with long wool overcoats and a beanie hat.Both on and off the catwalk, a look is emerging from the Paris autumn/winter 2016 menswear shows. It isn’t a trend as such, more a long-term shift in the way men who care about clothes are dressing, which blurs the lines between smart and casual. It is a haphazard, almost accidental way of dressing – padded coats over smart trousers, giant trapper hats worn with tailored pieces, tracksuit bottoms worn too high at the waist with long wool overcoats and a beanie hat.
It is an incongruous styling technique that has been pushed by a small but incredibly influential group of new east European designers. They include the Russian Gosha Rubchinskiy, whose own-brand show was a highlight earlier in the week. In a down-at-heel theatre his catwalk featured a gravel runway, dry ice, banana-yellow trapper hats, skater-boy chains and off-key trackpants.It is an incongruous styling technique that has been pushed by a small but incredibly influential group of new east European designers. They include the Russian Gosha Rubchinskiy, whose own-brand show was a highlight earlier in the week. In a down-at-heel theatre his catwalk featured a gravel runway, dry ice, banana-yellow trapper hats, skater-boy chains and off-key trackpants.
The look is echoed at the much-lauded Vetements label, a collective including the Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia. Now big brands have picked up on this aesthetic – Balenciaga has installed Gvasalia as its new creative director, and backstage at the Louis Vuitton show on Thursday the designer Kim Jones praised the creativity of the east Europeans.The look is echoed at the much-lauded Vetements label, a collective including the Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia. Now big brands have picked up on this aesthetic – Balenciaga has installed Gvasalia as its new creative director, and backstage at the Louis Vuitton show on Thursday the designer Kim Jones praised the creativity of the east Europeans.
Related: John Galliano attempts fashion comeback after four years
It is fair to say that John Galliano, the creative director at Maison Margiela, has not prioritised menswear at the label since he joined in October 2014. The official party line is that Galliano oversees everything Margiela related, but does not specifically design the men’s collection.It is fair to say that John Galliano, the creative director at Maison Margiela, has not prioritised menswear at the label since he joined in October 2014. The official party line is that Galliano oversees everything Margiela related, but does not specifically design the men’s collection.
The label’s owner, Renzo Rosso – who also owns Diesel – has said Galliano will put his imprint on menswear in mid-2016, which all seems a bit vague and a missed opportunity, especially since there is both a buzz about menswear and, commercially, Rosso’s risky hire of Galliano has paid off with revenues reportedly up 30%.The label’s owner, Renzo Rosso – who also owns Diesel – has said Galliano will put his imprint on menswear in mid-2016, which all seems a bit vague and a missed opportunity, especially since there is both a buzz about menswear and, commercially, Rosso’s risky hire of Galliano has paid off with revenues reportedly up 30%.
On the Margiela catwalk at Paris there was evidence too of the eastern bloc styling aesthetic – only without the excitement. The look was an unlikely mix of cycling bib shorts (the sort favoured by professional time-trial specialists), giant duffle coats with ripped-off sleeves and hefty boots. Cropped quilted jackets were worn over suits. Jackets were deconstructed – missing sleeves and glimpses of the inner workings of tailoring are a Margiela hallmark. Also present and correct were MA1 bomber jackets, which have had plenty of airtime on the catwalks of London and Milan already.On the Margiela catwalk at Paris there was evidence too of the eastern bloc styling aesthetic – only without the excitement. The look was an unlikely mix of cycling bib shorts (the sort favoured by professional time-trial specialists), giant duffle coats with ripped-off sleeves and hefty boots. Cropped quilted jackets were worn over suits. Jackets were deconstructed – missing sleeves and glimpses of the inner workings of tailoring are a Margiela hallmark. Also present and correct were MA1 bomber jackets, which have had plenty of airtime on the catwalks of London and Milan already.
The show notes referred to clothes being “interrupted”, which (unusually for show notes, which are often incomprehensible) is a rather helpful way of describing this new Parisian aesthetic.The show notes referred to clothes being “interrupted”, which (unusually for show notes, which are often incomprehensible) is a rather helpful way of describing this new Parisian aesthetic.