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An insider's guide to Salzburg: power plants, synth-pop and Cara Delevingne | An insider's guide to Salzburg: power plants, synth-pop and Cara Delevingne |
(about 4 hours later) | |
In five words | In five words |
Not only Mozart and Trapp. | Not only Mozart and Trapp. |
Sound of the city | Sound of the city |
I would have to say the Salzburger Stier (the Bull of Salzburg in English), an ancient organ located inside the fortress of Hohensalzburg. It plays a single chord three times a day and is loud enough to be heard throughout the old town. In the past, people said the sound reminded them of the crying of a bull, hence the name. The Stier used to be the local archbishop’s audible reminder of his power over the city, nowadays it mainly makes tourists wonder what the heck it was they just heard. | I would have to say the Salzburger Stier (the Bull of Salzburg in English), an ancient organ located inside the fortress of Hohensalzburg. It plays a single chord three times a day and is loud enough to be heard throughout the old town. In the past, people said the sound reminded them of the crying of a bull, hence the name. The Stier used to be the local archbishop’s audible reminder of his power over the city, nowadays it mainly makes tourists wonder what the heck it was they just heard. |
Best building | Best building |
That would be the Heizkraftwerk Mitte, a caloric power plant located just on the border of the historic city centre. Planned by internationally acclaimed architects Marie-Claude Bétrix und Eraldo Consolascio it caused widespread public protest when it was presented to the public in 2003, due to its very modern architecture – many people claimed it was an eyesore and a blemish on the city’s skyline. | |
It basically looks like a huge brick made of concrete with a massive chimney stretching over 70 metres into the sky, contrasting sharply with the medieval, baroque and turn of the century buildings nearby. What’s not to like? The new Heizkraftwerk and its premises would have been an award-winning project, if it wasn’t for local politicians who interfered – a very poignant example of courage in urban planning turned sour. | It basically looks like a huge brick made of concrete with a massive chimney stretching over 70 metres into the sky, contrasting sharply with the medieval, baroque and turn of the century buildings nearby. What’s not to like? The new Heizkraftwerk and its premises would have been an award-winning project, if it wasn’t for local politicians who interfered – a very poignant example of courage in urban planning turned sour. |
Favourite venue of the moment | Favourite venue of the moment |
Salzburg’s most popular jazz club, the Jazzit, welcomes international jazz acts to the city. When you can’t afford a ticket to a show you can still have a beer in their bar or garden. Sometimes they open the stage doors and you can hear the live music playing from afar. The venue also hosts a regular electroswing party, the Cirque de la Nuit. Besides live electroswing bands from all over Europe, they often feature acts inspired by the 1920s, like an absinthe fairy, jugglers and dancers. Locals don fancy frocks, bowties and suspenders and dance the night away. | Salzburg’s most popular jazz club, the Jazzit, welcomes international jazz acts to the city. When you can’t afford a ticket to a show you can still have a beer in their bar or garden. Sometimes they open the stage doors and you can hear the live music playing from afar. The venue also hosts a regular electroswing party, the Cirque de la Nuit. Besides live electroswing bands from all over Europe, they often feature acts inspired by the 1920s, like an absinthe fairy, jugglers and dancers. Locals don fancy frocks, bowties and suspenders and dance the night away. |
Homegrown talent | Homegrown talent |
I’d suggest Please Madame, a local synth-pop band. The four guys are fastly gaining popularity in Austria and Germany, naming bands like the Artic Monkeys and The Editors as their biggest influences. In Salzburg your best chance to see them live is at the Rockhouse, a concert venue running support programmes for the city’s young music scene, with success: some of Austria and Germany’s most popular bands, like the Makemakes or Olympique (who are also from Salzburg) have been supported by the Rockhouse, or had their first major gig there. | I’d suggest Please Madame, a local synth-pop band. The four guys are fastly gaining popularity in Austria and Germany, naming bands like the Artic Monkeys and The Editors as their biggest influences. In Salzburg your best chance to see them live is at the Rockhouse, a concert venue running support programmes for the city’s young music scene, with success: some of Austria and Germany’s most popular bands, like the Makemakes or Olympique (who are also from Salzburg) have been supported by the Rockhouse, or had their first major gig there. |
Biggest controversy | Biggest controversy |
During the recent refugee crisis, pretty much every refugee who travelled over the Balkan route to Germany had to pass through the main station in Salzburg. Tens of thousands of people passed through in a matter of just days – a huge challenge for a town of just 150,000 people, and a herculean task for the local city administration. | During the recent refugee crisis, pretty much every refugee who travelled over the Balkan route to Germany had to pass through the main station in Salzburg. Tens of thousands of people passed through in a matter of just days – a huge challenge for a town of just 150,000 people, and a herculean task for the local city administration. |
Most refugees had to stay in the city for a day or two before being allowed to resume their journey – housing and feeding all those people on short to no notice was no small feat. It was wonderful to behold the helpfulness of the local people who organised private mass donations over social media whenever something was needed – be it food, sleeping bags, nappies or winter coats. At the same time the outbreak of hate and xenophobia from other parts of the population was nearly unbearable, especially on social media – a conflict that still simmers. | Most refugees had to stay in the city for a day or two before being allowed to resume their journey – housing and feeding all those people on short to no notice was no small feat. It was wonderful to behold the helpfulness of the local people who organised private mass donations over social media whenever something was needed – be it food, sleeping bags, nappies or winter coats. At the same time the outbreak of hate and xenophobia from other parts of the population was nearly unbearable, especially on social media – a conflict that still simmers. |
What’s the look on the street? | What’s the look on the street? |
Most under-rated location | Most under-rated location |
The area around the Glanspitz in the northern part of the city has recently been reshaped. It’s now a very nice landscape garden with a little wood and rivers, a football pitch, water gardens, fruit trees and picnic grounds. Sometimes the city administration organises public barbecue parties there. During the winter months there is a little hill for sledging – and few people know about it. It came into existence when an (architecturally interesting) hydroelectric power station was built there and the piece of land surrounding it had to be redesigned. | The area around the Glanspitz in the northern part of the city has recently been reshaped. It’s now a very nice landscape garden with a little wood and rivers, a football pitch, water gardens, fruit trees and picnic grounds. Sometimes the city administration organises public barbecue parties there. During the winter months there is a little hill for sledging – and few people know about it. It came into existence when an (architecturally interesting) hydroelectric power station was built there and the piece of land surrounding it had to be redesigned. |
Best Instagram account | Best Instagram account |
This is the Instagram account of Lisa Brandstötter who organises regular Instawalks. She has an amazing eye for the not-so-common shot of famous scenes in Salzburg. | This is the Instagram account of Lisa Brandstötter who organises regular Instawalks. She has an amazing eye for the not-so-common shot of famous scenes in Salzburg. |
Moment in history | Moment in history |
It might be recent history but, on 2 December 2014, Chanel held its annual Métiers d’Art show in Salzburg’s Leopoldskron palace – and everyone went completely crazy. The preparations for the show were handled as if they were an issue of national secrecy. Everyone wanted to spot some of the models – the likes of Cara Delevingne and Kendall Jenner were here. | It might be recent history but, on 2 December 2014, Chanel held its annual Métiers d’Art show in Salzburg’s Leopoldskron palace – and everyone went completely crazy. The preparations for the show were handled as if they were an issue of national secrecy. Everyone wanted to spot some of the models – the likes of Cara Delevingne and Kendall Jenner were here. |
The motto of the show was Salzburg-Paris, as it is said that the local traditional clothing inspired Coco Chanel in creating her iconic suits. The designs featured in the show were adorned with edelweiss, frills and bows. Some resembled lederhosen or dirndl dresses. | The motto of the show was Salzburg-Paris, as it is said that the local traditional clothing inspired Coco Chanel in creating her iconic suits. The designs featured in the show were adorned with edelweiss, frills and bows. Some resembled lederhosen or dirndl dresses. |
Best local artist | Best local artist |
Jana & JS, consisting of Jana Balluch and Jean-Sébastien Philippe, are an Austrian-French couple specialising in detailed stencil street art. Their work deals with themes such as the way architecture changes through time, or urban landscapes and their inhabitants. It often features portraits of people, fitted into existing architectural elements. They layer single images, mostly photographs they have taken, in different stages of transparency, to create pretty surreal effects. | Jana & JS, consisting of Jana Balluch and Jean-Sébastien Philippe, are an Austrian-French couple specialising in detailed stencil street art. Their work deals with themes such as the way architecture changes through time, or urban landscapes and their inhabitants. It often features portraits of people, fitted into existing architectural elements. They layer single images, mostly photographs they have taken, in different stages of transparency, to create pretty surreal effects. |
The best known piece of work they did in Salzburg is located in the Steingasse, a narrow alley in the old town that used to be the city’s red light district. In it a young girl sits in front of a gigantic apartment block, contrasting individualism and anonymity – or at least that’s my interpretation. | The best known piece of work they did in Salzburg is located in the Steingasse, a narrow alley in the old town that used to be the city’s red light district. In it a young girl sits in front of a gigantic apartment block, contrasting individualism and anonymity – or at least that’s my interpretation. |
Top insider’s tip | Top insider’s tip |
When in Salzburg, attending a performance of classical music is an absolute must. Yet tickets to the famous Salzburg Festival are pretty hard to come by, and pretty expensive as well. But there are two alternative options: during the summer months you can visit the Siemens Festspielnächte, a free open air cinema in the heart of the old town that exclusively shows performances from the Salzburg Festival. Just bring your picnic basket and enjoy! | When in Salzburg, attending a performance of classical music is an absolute must. Yet tickets to the famous Salzburg Festival are pretty hard to come by, and pretty expensive as well. But there are two alternative options: during the summer months you can visit the Siemens Festspielnächte, a free open air cinema in the heart of the old town that exclusively shows performances from the Salzburg Festival. Just bring your picnic basket and enjoy! |
During the rest of the year you can attend one of the many recitals by the students of the Mozarteum conservatory. The Mozarteum is one of the most acclaimed conservatories of the world and most of the recitals are free to attend. | During the rest of the year you can attend one of the many recitals by the students of the Mozarteum conservatory. The Mozarteum is one of the most acclaimed conservatories of the world and most of the recitals are free to attend. |
From me | From me |
Originally an art historian, Carolina Hubelnig is now a professional lifestyle blogger and co-owner of a digital media agency. She is a lifelong lover of cats. | Originally an art historian, Carolina Hubelnig is now a professional lifestyle blogger and co-owner of a digital media agency. She is a lifelong lover of cats. |
Five to follow | Five to follow |
Ginger in the basement | Ginger in the basement |
Fräulein Flora’s Favourite Hangouts | Fräulein Flora’s Favourite Hangouts |
Stadt Salzburg | Stadt Salzburg |
Eva Schatz | Eva Schatz |
Saltzburger Festspiele | Saltzburger Festspiele |
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