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A tangle of 18th-century cottages and a modern estate A tangle of 18th-century cottages and a modern estate
(6 months later)
For years, I’d avoided Brough Lane. The rough track climbs steeply up a ridgeline south of the Hope Valley, but its wild views of Stanage to the northeast and Kinder Scout to the northwest are overwhelmed by the looming presence of Hope’s vast cement works, a structure that is undeniably and colossally industrial – the steroidal elephant in the national park’s bijou living room.For years, I’d avoided Brough Lane. The rough track climbs steeply up a ridgeline south of the Hope Valley, but its wild views of Stanage to the northeast and Kinder Scout to the northwest are overwhelmed by the looming presence of Hope’s vast cement works, a structure that is undeniably and colossally industrial – the steroidal elephant in the national park’s bijou living room.
Yet I felt a little ashamed of my prejudice. For a start, the works are surrounded by woodland and birds are abundant. There is the village of Bradwell, filling its valley with a tangle of 18th-century cottages and a modern estate. Thanks to cement, it’s a vibrant working community, and a contrast to neighbours more fully absorbed into Sheffield’s commuter belt.Yet I felt a little ashamed of my prejudice. For a start, the works are surrounded by woodland and birds are abundant. There is the village of Bradwell, filling its valley with a tangle of 18th-century cottages and a modern estate. Thanks to cement, it’s a vibrant working community, and a contrast to neighbours more fully absorbed into Sheffield’s commuter belt.
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The brook running through Bradwell meets the Noe just north of the village at Brough. Such confluences were sacred in Celtic mythology, but the valley was also rich in lead, ultimately of more interest to the Romans. They built an encampment at Brough to defend the empire’s interest and protect their road from Buxton.The brook running through Bradwell meets the Noe just north of the village at Brough. Such confluences were sacred in Celtic mythology, but the valley was also rich in lead, ultimately of more interest to the Romans. They built an encampment at Brough to defend the empire’s interest and protect their road from Buxton.
Bradwell was no less contested after the Romans left. Halfway up Brough Lane, I stopped to watch a buzzard hanging off the wind on the crest of a steep slope of hawthorn and birch called Rebellion Knoll. On its far side is Deadman’s Clough. Both names recall Saxon conflicts. The heaped bones of fallen warriors have been found hereabouts.Bradwell was no less contested after the Romans left. Halfway up Brough Lane, I stopped to watch a buzzard hanging off the wind on the crest of a steep slope of hawthorn and birch called Rebellion Knoll. On its far side is Deadman’s Clough. Both names recall Saxon conflicts. The heaped bones of fallen warriors have been found hereabouts.
The ridge of Brough Lane reaches its summit on Bleak Knoll, aptly named since it was wilder there, with the treeless spread of Abney Moor at my back. To the east, the sky was blue and the brown heather bathed in sunlight. To the west, grey clouds thickened over Staffordshire, the sharp air promising snow. And all the while, overhead, two larks competed with each other, oblivious to the changing weather, their exultant song snatched away by the strengthening wind.The ridge of Brough Lane reaches its summit on Bleak Knoll, aptly named since it was wilder there, with the treeless spread of Abney Moor at my back. To the east, the sky was blue and the brown heather bathed in sunlight. To the west, grey clouds thickened over Staffordshire, the sharp air promising snow. And all the while, overhead, two larks competed with each other, oblivious to the changing weather, their exultant song snatched away by the strengthening wind.
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