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Reviewing the Met Gala Runway: ‘Manus vs. Machina’ Reviewing the Met Gala Runway: ‘Manus vs. Machina’
(about 4 hours later)
We should have known what we were in for when Taylor Swift arrived.We should have known what we were in for when Taylor Swift arrived.
Ms. Swift, who has been on something of a campaign to crush her former ladylike image, seized her moment as co-host of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala this year to make a different kind of statement, arriving just after 6 p.m. to take her place on the receiving line in a tiered halter-necked silver crocodile print Louis Vuitton dress with side cutouts, knee-high spiked gladiator boots, dark lipstick and a shock of platinum hair. Think Pris of “Blade Runner” reimagined by Marvel and ready to join the Avengers, and you’ll get the idea. The dress divided the online-viewing community, and set the tone for the night.Ms. Swift, who has been on something of a campaign to crush her former ladylike image, seized her moment as co-host of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala this year to make a different kind of statement, arriving just after 6 p.m. to take her place on the receiving line in a tiered halter-necked silver crocodile print Louis Vuitton dress with side cutouts, knee-high spiked gladiator boots, dark lipstick and a shock of platinum hair. Think Pris of “Blade Runner” reimagined by Marvel and ready to join the Avengers, and you’ll get the idea. The dress divided the online-viewing community, and set the tone for the night.
If the theme of this year’s blockbuster exhibition is “Manus x Machina,” the dress code for the opening party seemed to be, rather “Manus vs. Machina” and fall into one of the two categories. For anyone wondering why the promise of wearables is as yet unfulfilled, this red carpet was the answer. Apparently, when designers think fashion and technology, they think Mr. Roboto.If the theme of this year’s blockbuster exhibition is “Manus x Machina,” the dress code for the opening party seemed to be, rather “Manus vs. Machina” and fall into one of the two categories. For anyone wondering why the promise of wearables is as yet unfulfilled, this red carpet was the answer. Apparently, when designers think fashion and technology, they think Mr. Roboto.
The predominant color of the evening was silver, and the predominant pattern was circuitry. This was as simple as the silver sequins on Anna Ewers (in Jason Wu), Brie Larson (in Proenza Schouler, also with side cutouts, which were something of a trend), and Gigi Hadid (in a Tommy Hilfiger bustier bodysuit with a chiffon overlay and metallic neckpiece), or as elaborate as Kim Kardashian’s pieced-together gown of Balmain armor. The brand had something of a banner evening, dressing not only most of the Kardashians but also a number of assorted models. It turns out the designer Olivier Rousteing’s penchant for dresses made from elaborate, ropelike macramé bears an unexpected resemblance to a motherboard — also the theme of Kendall Jenner’s wired-up Versace dress and Lady Gaga’s Versace jacket, worn without pants because, well, in the future, who needs them?The predominant color of the evening was silver, and the predominant pattern was circuitry. This was as simple as the silver sequins on Anna Ewers (in Jason Wu), Brie Larson (in Proenza Schouler, also with side cutouts, which were something of a trend), and Gigi Hadid (in a Tommy Hilfiger bustier bodysuit with a chiffon overlay and metallic neckpiece), or as elaborate as Kim Kardashian’s pieced-together gown of Balmain armor. The brand had something of a banner evening, dressing not only most of the Kardashians but also a number of assorted models. It turns out the designer Olivier Rousteing’s penchant for dresses made from elaborate, ropelike macramé bears an unexpected resemblance to a motherboard — also the theme of Kendall Jenner’s wired-up Versace dress and Lady Gaga’s Versace jacket, worn without pants because, well, in the future, who needs them?
(Madonna also had a pants-less moment, in Givenchy, though the reasoning behind that look, which included a long lace train and thigh and arm wraps, was less apparent.)(Madonna also had a pants-less moment, in Givenchy, though the reasoning behind that look, which included a long lace train and thigh and arm wraps, was less apparent.)
At least Beyoncé, in skin-tone latex Givenchy, like some sort of synthetic goddess, abstracted the idea a little, as did the clone wars trio of Jenna Lyons, Lena Dunham and Jenni Konner, in matching J. Crew tuxes. But generally, there was little obvious experimentation on display, save for Solange Knowles, who seemed to be channeling a genetically modified lemon drop via fanlike pleating by David Laport and patent thigh-highs.At least Beyoncé, in skin-tone latex Givenchy, like some sort of synthetic goddess, abstracted the idea a little, as did the clone wars trio of Jenna Lyons, Lena Dunham and Jenni Konner, in matching J. Crew tuxes. But generally, there was little obvious experimentation on display, save for Solange Knowles, who seemed to be channeling a genetically modified lemon drop via fanlike pleating by David Laport and patent thigh-highs.
You can understand it — it’s risky to step into the digital corner, because no one really knows what the splicing of the technology and fashion industries is going to look like. (Though Emma Watson’s Calvin Klein bustier-pants-train combo made from recycled plastic bottles was not a bad idea.) Perhaps that’s why a number of guests chose to eschew the references to code entirely and to opt instead for what seemed like classic costume drama.You can understand it — it’s risky to step into the digital corner, because no one really knows what the splicing of the technology and fashion industries is going to look like. (Though Emma Watson’s Calvin Klein bustier-pants-train combo made from recycled plastic bottles was not a bad idea.) Perhaps that’s why a number of guests chose to eschew the references to code entirely and to opt instead for what seemed like classic costume drama.
Corsets made a notable appearance; so did capes. There were assorted princess styles on Kate Bosworth and Zoe Saldana in Dolce & Gabbana; a Cinderella ball gown on Claire Danes that required both her husband Hugh Dancy and the designer Zac Posen to help when she needed to turn around; medieval royalty channeled by Florence Welch in Gucci and Nicole Kidman in Alexander McQueen; a Jane Eyre moment courtesy of Lauren Bush Lauren; and an inexplicable knickers-and-frock-coat combo from Monse on Sarah Jessica Parker, which looked like nothing so much as a garment borrowed from the “Hamilton” stage.Corsets made a notable appearance; so did capes. There were assorted princess styles on Kate Bosworth and Zoe Saldana in Dolce & Gabbana; a Cinderella ball gown on Claire Danes that required both her husband Hugh Dancy and the designer Zac Posen to help when she needed to turn around; medieval royalty channeled by Florence Welch in Gucci and Nicole Kidman in Alexander McQueen; a Jane Eyre moment courtesy of Lauren Bush Lauren; and an inexplicable knickers-and-frock-coat combo from Monse on Sarah Jessica Parker, which looked like nothing so much as a garment borrowed from the “Hamilton” stage.
Oh, and there was Tavi Gevinson’s “Little House on the Prairie” Coach look — in case anyone needed a reminder of the good old days before devices changed everything.Oh, and there was Tavi Gevinson’s “Little House on the Prairie” Coach look — in case anyone needed a reminder of the good old days before devices changed everything.
The barbell effect between old and torn was so extreme, it was something of a relief to find the other big trend of the evening was white, set by the event’s chairwoman, Anna Wintour, in Chanel and then modeled by everyone from Jennifer Hudson (in frothy H&M) to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (in minimal Ralph Lauren), which served as something of a palate cleanser between entrances. The barbell effect between old and tron was so extreme, it was something of a relief to find the other big trend of the evening was white, set by the event’s chairwoman, Anna Wintour, in Chanel and then modeled by everyone from Jennifer Hudson (in frothy H&M) to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (in minimal Ralph Lauren), which served as something of a palate cleanser between entrances.
For that, see also Zendaya’s sleek one-sleeved gold Michael Kors, Kerry Washington’s jazzy black Marc Jacobs, and the sea of classic black tuxes on most of the men. Zayn Malik (in Versace armor) and Jeremy Scott (in a studded skeleton tux) being the few exceptions, and Idris Elba and Tom Hiddleston, both in tails, particularly swish.For that, see also Zendaya’s sleek one-sleeved gold Michael Kors, Kerry Washington’s jazzy black Marc Jacobs, and the sea of classic black tuxes on most of the men. Zayn Malik (in Versace armor) and Jeremy Scott (in a studded skeleton tux) being the few exceptions, and Idris Elba and Tom Hiddleston, both in tails, particularly swish.
In the end, however, it was the number of short dresses that was the real surprise. Though Alicia Vikander’s Louis Vuitton red leather breastplate and silk apron combo was a little confusing, the molded navy satin tunic over a black miniskirt on Michelle Williams was cool; ditto Zoë Kravitz’s Valentino mini and Kate Mara’s above-the-knee chain-mail Paco Rabanne.In the end, however, it was the number of short dresses that was the real surprise. Though Alicia Vikander’s Louis Vuitton red leather breastplate and silk apron combo was a little confusing, the molded navy satin tunic over a black miniskirt on Michelle Williams was cool; ditto Zoë Kravitz’s Valentino mini and Kate Mara’s above-the-knee chain-mail Paco Rabanne.
The idea that a woman could get dressed up and stretch her legs too? That’s a genuine advance.The idea that a woman could get dressed up and stretch her legs too? That’s a genuine advance.