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Visiting the ghosts of Paris 1968 Visiting the ghosts of Paris 1968
(3 days later)
Young people have been demonstrating again in Paris, 40 years after the riots which nearly toppled the French government. But John Pickford, who was studying there in 1968, says today's protests are a very different affair.Young people have been demonstrating again in Paris, 40 years after the riots which nearly toppled the French government. But John Pickford, who was studying there in 1968, says today's protests are a very different affair.
Students occupied the Sorbonne for five weeks in 1968Students occupied the Sorbonne for five weeks in 1968
I saw her at the entrance to a cafe in the heart of the student district of Paris - a woman of about 20 with ash-blonde hair and blood streaming through it.I saw her at the entrance to a cafe in the heart of the student district of Paris - a woman of about 20 with ash-blonde hair and blood streaming through it.
This was the day when weeks of tension between students and the authorities finally erupted in violence in the streets around the Sorbonne university.This was the day when weeks of tension between students and the authorities finally erupted in violence in the streets around the Sorbonne university.
That cafe became my place of refuge for the next six hours as a surreal battle raged around it.That cafe became my place of refuge for the next six hours as a surreal battle raged around it.
Students in the Boulevard St Michel were lobbing cobblestones at police while traffic was still passing.Students in the Boulevard St Michel were lobbing cobblestones at police while traffic was still passing.
A police tear-gas grenade exploded in a puff of smoke on the back of a fleeing student, and another on the side of a stationary bus full of passengers.A police tear-gas grenade exploded in a puff of smoke on the back of a fleeing student, and another on the side of a stationary bus full of passengers.
The students in 1968... believed they could change France, if not the worldThe students in 1968... believed they could change France, if not the world
There were sporadic charges at the students by police in riot gear - batons, helmets, shields - like medieval hit squads.There were sporadic charges at the students by police in riot gear - batons, helmets, shields - like medieval hit squads.
It was in one such charge that I saw the girl with blonde hair clubbed over the head.It was in one such charge that I saw the girl with blonde hair clubbed over the head.
Anarchist's flagAnarchist's flag
When I walk the streets of Paris, some camera in my head starts whirring and the sights and sounds of 40 years ago come to life.When I walk the streets of Paris, some camera in my head starts whirring and the sights and sounds of 40 years ago come to life.
Today's students are worried about getting a good jobToday's students are worried about getting a good job
And I find myself asking questions. Could that outpouring of energy, anger and rebellion that was May 1968 happen again? What is preoccupying the students of today?And I find myself asking questions. Could that outpouring of energy, anger and rebellion that was May 1968 happen again? What is preoccupying the students of today?
The entrance to the Sorbonne is now guarded by security men but rather impressively - or worryingly, some might say - after two minutes of negotiation, one of them decided to let me in.The entrance to the Sorbonne is now guarded by security men but rather impressively - or worryingly, some might say - after two minutes of negotiation, one of them decided to let me in.
Was it telling him I was a student there 40 years ago that convinced him I was no threat?Was it telling him I was a student there 40 years ago that convinced him I was no threat?
Sitting on a stone bench in the sunny, cobbled courtyard, I looked up at the great dome that towers over it.Sitting on a stone bench in the sunny, cobbled courtyard, I looked up at the great dome that towers over it.
In 1968, some intrepid youth had climbed right to the top and unfurled there the black flag of the anarchists.In 1968, some intrepid youth had climbed right to the top and unfurled there the black flag of the anarchists.
It fluttered over the citadel of the university for weeks, even after the student occupation had ended.It fluttered over the citadel of the university for weeks, even after the student occupation had ended.
'Students are never happy''Students are never happy'
A student came to sit beside me in the sunshine and smoke an elegantly rolled cigarette. I asked her what she thought of 1968. She looked bemused. "Rien," (nothing) she said.A student came to sit beside me in the sunshine and smoke an elegantly rolled cigarette. I asked her what she thought of 1968. She looked bemused. "Rien," (nothing) she said.
The students of 1968 thought they could change the worldThe students of 1968 thought they could change the world
"But, the students weren't very happy in 1968, were they?" I ventured."But, the students weren't very happy in 1968, were they?" I ventured.
"Students are never happy," she replied."Students are never happy," she replied.
But for Claire Prest, who is now in her 60s, the streets of Paris in May 1968 were brimming with romantic intensity. She had just begun a love affair with the man she would marry.But for Claire Prest, who is now in her 60s, the streets of Paris in May 1968 were brimming with romantic intensity. She had just begun a love affair with the man she would marry.
"See you a la manif" (see you at the demo) was part of their courtship, as were the debates they witnessed together in the great lecture halls of the Sorbonne during the student occupation."See you a la manif" (see you at the demo) was part of their courtship, as were the debates they witnessed together in the great lecture halls of the Sorbonne during the student occupation.
She looks back on a time of creativity and excitement, with slogans like "Il est interdit d'interdire" (it is forbidden to forbid) as the rallying cries.She looks back on a time of creativity and excitement, with slogans like "Il est interdit d'interdire" (it is forbidden to forbid) as the rallying cries.
Later when I met Claire's daughter, Genevieve, I asked her how it felt to be, in a sense, a child of 1968. She paused and raised her eyebrows. "They certainly weren't revolutionary parents!" she said.Later when I met Claire's daughter, Genevieve, I asked her how it felt to be, in a sense, a child of 1968. She paused and raised her eyebrows. "They certainly weren't revolutionary parents!" she said.
Riot policeRiot police
Now that camera in my head begins whirring again and I see more ghosts.Now that camera in my head begins whirring again and I see more ghosts.
One banner read: 'Do we need another 1968?'One banner read: 'Do we need another 1968?'
I see those ancient metro trains - whose construction and design owed more to the 1920s than the 60s - with slatted wooden seats and notices saying "Defence de Cracher" (no spitting). I see those ancient metro trains - whose construction and design owed more to the 1920s than the 60s - with slatted wooden seats and notices saying "Defense de Cracher" (no spitting).
I see the little jukeboxes in cafes that used to play - endlessly - that breathy, suggestive "succes de scandale" of the time, "Je t'aime moi non plus".I see the little jukeboxes in cafes that used to play - endlessly - that breathy, suggestive "succes de scandale" of the time, "Je t'aime moi non plus".
I see men smoking pipes while reading the Communist newspaper, L'Humanite.I see men smoking pipes while reading the Communist newspaper, L'Humanite.
But back in the present, I see some real ghosts - police in riot gear and police vans lined up in a side street. Yes, there was going to be a demonstration that afternoon by 16-18 year olds from the lycees (secondary schools).But back in the present, I see some real ghosts - police in riot gear and police vans lined up in a side street. Yes, there was going to be a demonstration that afternoon by 16-18 year olds from the lycees (secondary schools).
They are angry because reforms under President Sarkozy have led to the axing of nearly 12,000 teaching posts and, they claim, larger classes.They are angry because reforms under President Sarkozy have led to the axing of nearly 12,000 teaching posts and, they claim, larger classes.
Paying the rentPaying the rent
So in 2008, with the plane trees in the Jardin de Luxembourg coming into fresh leaf, I watched thousands of lycee students marching up the Boulevard St Michel, and at moments, I was back in that Paris spring of 40 years ago.So in 2008, with the plane trees in the Jardin de Luxembourg coming into fresh leaf, I watched thousands of lycee students marching up the Boulevard St Michel, and at moments, I was back in that Paris spring of 40 years ago.
One banner read: "Do we need another 1968?" and I saw a fleeting reference to Tibet, but the focus of this protest was domestic and the goals limited.One banner read: "Do we need another 1968?" and I saw a fleeting reference to Tibet, but the focus of this protest was domestic and the goals limited.
The students had specific grievances in 1968 as well, notably against the rigidly hierarchical way the universities were organised - but they went on to believe they could change France, if not the world.The students had specific grievances in 1968 as well, notably against the rigidly hierarchical way the universities were organised - but they went on to believe they could change France, if not the world.
A teacher highlighted the difference for me: "This generation doesn't want to change society. They just want to be able to get a job good enough to pay the rent and that's why they're worried about the quality of their education."A teacher highlighted the difference for me: "This generation doesn't want to change society. They just want to be able to get a job good enough to pay the rent and that's why they're worried about the quality of their education."
Nonetheless, when sufficiently fired up and organised, French students have shown in recent years that no government can afford to be complacent once they take to the streets.Nonetheless, when sufficiently fired up and organised, French students have shown in recent years that no government can afford to be complacent once they take to the streets.
Last week the right-of-centre newspaper, Le Figaro, summed up that perception with a quote which, not surprisingly, remains anonymous:Last week the right-of-centre newspaper, Le Figaro, summed up that perception with a quote which, not surprisingly, remains anonymous:
"The young are like toothpaste, easier to get out of the tube than to put back in again.""The young are like toothpaste, easier to get out of the tube than to put back in again."
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 19 April, 2008 at 1130 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 19 April, 2008 at 1130 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.