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Insider's guide to Palermo: mafia architecture, music and lamb guts Insider's guide to Palermo: mafia architecture, music and lamb guts
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In five wordsIn five words
Iced granita under palm trees.Iced granita under palm trees.
Sound of the citySound of the city
A scacciapensieri – a typical instrument known also as marranzanu in Sicilian dialect – is played using your mouth and plucked with your finger, as the positions of the tongue make different sounds. Now, few people play this instrument, but this clip includes three original pieces composed and played by the musician Giuseppe Marino.A scacciapensieri – a typical instrument known also as marranzanu in Sicilian dialect – is played using your mouth and plucked with your finger, as the positions of the tongue make different sounds. Now, few people play this instrument, but this clip includes three original pieces composed and played by the musician Giuseppe Marino.
Best buildingBest building
The Arab-Norman Cathedral of Palermo represents a charming example of the historical commingling of cultures in the city. In AD831 the Saracens took control of Palermo and transformed the original seventh century cathedral into a large mosque called Gami, until the Norman conquest of the city returned the building to Christian worship. The cathedral as we know it today was erected in 1185 by the archbishop Walter Ophamil.The Arab-Norman Cathedral of Palermo represents a charming example of the historical commingling of cultures in the city. In AD831 the Saracens took control of Palermo and transformed the original seventh century cathedral into a large mosque called Gami, until the Norman conquest of the city returned the building to Christian worship. The cathedral as we know it today was erected in 1185 by the archbishop Walter Ophamil.
In July 2015 it was given world heritage status by Unesco, together with other monuments in the region including the Monreale and Cefalù Cathedrals and the Palatine Chapel, which are part of the Arab-Norman itinerary – defined as an “outstanding example of a socio-cultural syncretism between western, Islamic, and Byzantine cultures”.In July 2015 it was given world heritage status by Unesco, together with other monuments in the region including the Monreale and Cefalù Cathedrals and the Palatine Chapel, which are part of the Arab-Norman itinerary – defined as an “outstanding example of a socio-cultural syncretism between western, Islamic, and Byzantine cultures”.
Homegrown talentHomegrown talent
Davide Shorty is a songwriter, beat-maker and rapper from Palermo who moved to London a few years ago. His single My Soul Trigger dedicated to his hometown, gained him the third place in the Italy’s X Factor and nationwide popularity. Shorty was previously part of the group Combomastas known for the hit U Tagghiamu stu Palluni (2008).Davide Shorty is a songwriter, beat-maker and rapper from Palermo who moved to London a few years ago. His single My Soul Trigger dedicated to his hometown, gained him the third place in the Italy’s X Factor and nationwide popularity. Shorty was previously part of the group Combomastas known for the hit U Tagghiamu stu Palluni (2008).
Biggest controversy?Biggest controversy?
Due to its geographical position, Sicily has become a primary destination for an increasing number of refugees and migrants. According to statistics from the UNHCR, at the time of writing, 59,042 people have arrived in Italy by sea in 2016 – 35,289 in Sicily – and 29% of arrivals come from the world’s top 10 highest refugee-producing countries.Due to its geographical position, Sicily has become a primary destination for an increasing number of refugees and migrants. According to statistics from the UNHCR, at the time of writing, 59,042 people have arrived in Italy by sea in 2016 – 35,289 in Sicily – and 29% of arrivals come from the world’s top 10 highest refugee-producing countries.
Sicilian inhabitants, especially those on the small island of Lampedusa, have been on the frontline welcoming refugees. Agnese Ciulla, regional government member responsible for social activity, recently attracted media attention because she takes care of 480 unaccompanied minors as foster children (15% of arrivals by sea are unaccompanied minors).Sicilian inhabitants, especially those on the small island of Lampedusa, have been on the frontline welcoming refugees. Agnese Ciulla, regional government member responsible for social activity, recently attracted media attention because she takes care of 480 unaccompanied minors as foster children (15% of arrivals by sea are unaccompanied minors).
But not all Sicilians are as receptive, on 28 March in Palermo an protest took place in Via Monfenera, where an overcrowded reception centre hosts 240 migrants. But migrant reception is not always easy to organise, and on 28 March, a protest took place in Palermo’s Via Monfenera, where an overcrowded reception centre hosts 240 migrants.
The look on the streetThe look on the street
Best Instagram accountBest Instagram account
Amo Palermo is more than an Instagram account as it is also a blog on Palermo’s architectural, social and economic progress. All pictures are taken by the bloggers and provide a special portrait of the city’s most relevant cultural and artistic locations. From liberty-styles facades to byzantine details spread around the city centre, the page shows the different faces of Palermo in a single glimpse.Amo Palermo is more than an Instagram account as it is also a blog on Palermo’s architectural, social and economic progress. All pictures are taken by the bloggers and provide a special portrait of the city’s most relevant cultural and artistic locations. From liberty-styles facades to byzantine details spread around the city centre, the page shows the different faces of Palermo in a single glimpse.
Worst buildingWorst building
During the 1950s and 60s an abnormal building expansion known as Sacco di Palermo (Palermo’s Sack) upset the architectural character of the city. The wider construction was, in many cases, favourable to Cosa Nostra (Sicilian mafia) business interests, and produced 10 or more storey concrete buildings. Some 19th-century liberty-style houses were demolished to make way for the new buildings. A clear example is the demolition of Villa Deliella (designed by the architect Ernesto Basile, famous representative of art nouveau style), which was destroyed in 1959 over just one weekend. A car park is now in its place.During the 1950s and 60s an abnormal building expansion known as Sacco di Palermo (Palermo’s Sack) upset the architectural character of the city. The wider construction was, in many cases, favourable to Cosa Nostra (Sicilian mafia) business interests, and produced 10 or more storey concrete buildings. Some 19th-century liberty-style houses were demolished to make way for the new buildings. A clear example is the demolition of Villa Deliella (designed by the architect Ernesto Basile, famous representative of art nouveau style), which was destroyed in 1959 over just one weekend. A car park is now in its place.
Moment in historyMoment in history
The Maxiprocesso (Maxi-trial) is a famous criminal trial against mafia members that took place in 1986-7 at the Tribunale di Palermo, thanks to the work of the “anti-mafia pool” made up of a team of prosecutors coordinated by Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino. More than 400 people were investigated for a series of mafia-connected crimes. The trial ended with 19 life sentences and more than 300 convictions (among them also the mafia bosses Toto Riina and Bernardo Provenzano), and overall 2,665 years of imprisonment.The Maxiprocesso (Maxi-trial) is a famous criminal trial against mafia members that took place in 1986-7 at the Tribunale di Palermo, thanks to the work of the “anti-mafia pool” made up of a team of prosecutors coordinated by Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino. More than 400 people were investigated for a series of mafia-connected crimes. The trial ended with 19 life sentences and more than 300 convictions (among them also the mafia bosses Toto Riina and Bernardo Provenzano), and overall 2,665 years of imprisonment.
The Maxi-trial was the first time in history when mafia existence was recognised by the state and punished as a specific crime. Falcone and Borsellino were both killed in two different attacks organised by mafia in 1992. Giovanni Falcone, his wife Francesca Morvillo and the members of the security detail were killed in an explosion on the motorway near Capaci, 18km far from Palermo. Two red obelisks, one at each side of the street, commemorate the victims.The Maxi-trial was the first time in history when mafia existence was recognised by the state and punished as a specific crime. Falcone and Borsellino were both killed in two different attacks organised by mafia in 1992. Giovanni Falcone, his wife Francesca Morvillo and the members of the security detail were killed in an explosion on the motorway near Capaci, 18km far from Palermo. Two red obelisks, one at each side of the street, commemorate the victims.
Best local artistBest local artist
Palermo suburbs with their mixture of cultures, flavours and energy is in my opinion successfully represented by the work of photographer Francesco Faraci. He says his work is inspired by “contradictions, existential paradoxes, and cultural crossroads of Sicily and the immigration flow”. This picture is from his long-term project Malacarne (literally “badflesh”), which started in 2013 and portrays children living in the poorest outskirts of the city. His work has been published in Italian and international newspapers and websites.Palermo suburbs with their mixture of cultures, flavours and energy is in my opinion successfully represented by the work of photographer Francesco Faraci. He says his work is inspired by “contradictions, existential paradoxes, and cultural crossroads of Sicily and the immigration flow”. This picture is from his long-term project Malacarne (literally “badflesh”), which started in 2013 and portrays children living in the poorest outskirts of the city. His work has been published in Italian and international newspapers and websites.
What does your city do better than anywhere else?What does your city do better than anywhere else?
Sicilian street food is one of the most appreciated peculiarities of the region in both Italy and abroad. Stigghiola (lamb guts) are one of Palermo’s specialities, but for more sensitive visitors or vegetarians, fried panelle (made of chickpeas flour, to eat inside a sandwich or alone) are a more than convincing alternative.Sicilian street food is one of the most appreciated peculiarities of the region in both Italy and abroad. Stigghiola (lamb guts) are one of Palermo’s specialities, but for more sensitive visitors or vegetarians, fried panelle (made of chickpeas flour, to eat inside a sandwich or alone) are a more than convincing alternative.
Sicily is also famous for its sweets: cassata, cassatelle and cannoli above all, and an original Palermitan invention is the Setteveli cake. Like the city, the cake is composed of stratifications. But in this case, it’s seven different layers of chocolate.Sicily is also famous for its sweets: cassata, cassatelle and cannoli above all, and an original Palermitan invention is the Setteveli cake. Like the city, the cake is composed of stratifications. But in this case, it’s seven different layers of chocolate.
Here’s a taste of our street food, with Nino u’ballerino (Nino the dancer) serving up Palermo’s top speciality pani ca’meusa (bread with spleen).Here’s a taste of our street food, with Nino u’ballerino (Nino the dancer) serving up Palermo’s top speciality pani ca’meusa (bread with spleen).
Most under-rated locationMost under-rated location
A unique view of Palermo can be enjoyed on Foro Italico lawn, a fascinating promenade located between Mount Pellegrino and the sea. Unfortunately the green area – a park on the cost of the city – has suffered years of neglectful behaviour by public administration and acts of vandalism by citizens. But recently, local authorities launched a recovery campaign of the area.A unique view of Palermo can be enjoyed on Foro Italico lawn, a fascinating promenade located between Mount Pellegrino and the sea. Unfortunately the green area – a park on the cost of the city – has suffered years of neglectful behaviour by public administration and acts of vandalism by citizens. But recently, local authorities launched a recovery campaign of the area.
How green is your city?How green is your city?
Despite the significant parks like Villa Giulia and the Botanical Gardens in the centre of the city, Palermo is not a very green city. Environmental awareness is slowly rising, however, the most recent example is the installation of new eco-friendly tourist information points.Despite the significant parks like Villa Giulia and the Botanical Gardens in the centre of the city, Palermo is not a very green city. Environmental awareness is slowly rising, however, the most recent example is the installation of new eco-friendly tourist information points.
Most recently, on 16 June, a series of violent blazes spread along the northern coast of Sicily, including the wooded areas around Palermo. Due to high temperatures and wind, it was very difficult to distinguish the fires, and this soon escalated into an environmental disaster.Most recently, on 16 June, a series of violent blazes spread along the northern coast of Sicily, including the wooded areas around Palermo. Due to high temperatures and wind, it was very difficult to distinguish the fires, and this soon escalated into an environmental disaster.
Insider’s tipInsider’s tip
A few steps away from the Ballarò market is Via Porta di Castro, located on the old bed of river Kemonia. Here inside the flat of the journalists Giuseppe Cadilli and Valeria Giarrusso is a mysterious chamber, like something out of One Thousand and One Nights. The wonderland chamber (or blue chamber, as it has been named) was discovered accidentally in 2013 during a renovation by Franco Fazzio, and has been studied by experts from Bonn University, who tried to decipher the Arab inscriptions that were hidden for ages behind layers of white pastel. The mystery behind this chamber is still not completely clear. In the meantime, the room is open to visitors on specific days. A few steps away from the Ballarò market is Via Porta di Castro, located on the old bed of river Kemonia. Here inside the flat of the journalists Giuseppe Cadili and Valeria Giarrusso is a mysterious chamber, like something out of One Thousand and One Nights. The wonderland chamber (or blue chamber, as it has been named) was discovered accidentally in 2013 during a renovation by Franco Fazzio, and has been studied by experts from Bonn University, who tried to decipher the Arab inscriptions that were hidden for ages behind layers of white pastel. The mystery behind this chamber is still not completely clear. In the meantime, the room is open to visitors on specific days.
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Anna Ditta is a Sicilian-born freelance journalist, based between Palermo and Rome. Follow her on Twitter.Anna Ditta is a Sicilian-born freelance journalist, based between Palermo and Rome. Follow her on Twitter.