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Barbican exhibition delves into 'vulgar' fashion Barbican exhibition delves into 'vulgar' fashion
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What constitutes good – or bad – taste? That is the central question posed at the Barbican’s new exhibition, The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined, which opens on 13 October. What constitutes good – or bad – taste? That is the central question posed at the Barbican’s new exhibition, The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined.
Taking in 500 years of fashion, and featuring over 40 designers, it collects together garments that were, and are, considered “vulgar”, but the connotations are not necessarily negative. Co-curator Judith Clark explains: “It’s meant to celebrate, not to humiliate.” Taking in 500 years of fashion, and featuring over 40 designers, it brings together garments that were, and are, considered “vulgar”, but the connotations are not necessarily negative. Co-curator Judith Clark said: “It’s meant to celebrate, not to humiliate.”
Clark’s fellow curator is psychoanalyst Adam Phillips, and the exhibition aims to unpick the very concept of vulgarity in a cerebral way. “We were thinking about the word ‘vulgar’ and the language around it, specifically how violent, divisive and awful it is,” says Clark, adding that they have “attempted to be more celebratory of the word, and not allow it to be a pejorative”. Clark’s fellow curator is psychoanalyst Adam Phillips, and the exhibition aims to unpick the concept of vulgarity in a cerebral way. “We were thinking about the word ‘vulgar’ and the language around it, specifically how violent, divisive and awful it is,” said Clark, adding that they have “attempted to be more celebratory of the word, and not allow it to be a pejorative”.
The exhibition presents modern-day outfits from designers such as Alessandro Michele (Gucci), Mary Katrantzou and Gareth Pugh juxtaposed with outfits from the Renaissance, French revolution and the 1920s, to show the line of influence, commonalities with fabrication and style, and to highlight the cyclical nature of fashion.The exhibition presents modern-day outfits from designers such as Alessandro Michele (Gucci), Mary Katrantzou and Gareth Pugh juxtaposed with outfits from the Renaissance, French revolution and the 1920s, to show the line of influence, commonalities with fabrication and style, and to highlight the cyclical nature of fashion.
The duo has divided the exhibition into 11 different rooms, themed around different concepts of vulgarity, as defined by Philips. These include the Pop Art-centric “Too Popular” section which features Andy Warhol’s Souper Dress alongside sweet wrapper-themed dresses from Jeremy Scott’s Moschino collection. There is also the “Exaggerated Bodies” room, which features Malcolm McClaren and Vivienne Westwood’s “tits” T-shirt and Maison Margiela’s duo of wig shoulder pads. The duo has spread the exhibition over 11 rooms, themed around different concepts of vulgarity, as defined by Philips. These include the Pop Art-centric “Too Popular” section, which features Andy Warhol’s Souper Dress alongside sweet wrapper-themed dresses from Jeremy Scott’s Moschino collection. There is also the “Exaggerated Bodies” room, which features Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood’s “tits” T-shirt and Maison Margiela’s duo of wig shoulder pads.
Then there’s the “Common” room which includes Rihanna’s 9-to-5 boots which she designed in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik. “Common isn’t a pejorative term here, it just means usual. And our usual material is denim,” says Clark. Still, class is deeply felt throughout the 11 rooms – but most literally in the “Ruling In and Ruling Out” room, which includes etiquette guides from the 16th century and beyond. Then there’s the “Common” room which includes Rihanna’s 9-to-5 boots which she designed in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik. “Common isn’t a pejorative term here, it just means usual. And our usual material is denim,” said Clark. Still, class is deeply felt throughout the 11 rooms – but most literally in the “Ruling In and Ruling Out” room, which includes etiquette guides from the 16th century and beyond.
“The concept of vulgarity is always about defending class boundaries,” explains Clark. “That’s why we included the etiquette books. They take the idea of what’s vulgar, and what’s not, to ridiculous levels.” “The concept of vulgarity is always about defending class boundaries,” explained Clark. “That’s why we included the etiquette books. They take the idea of what’s vulgar, and what’s not, to ridiculous levels.”
Alongside this, there are items that have divided the taste-makers, including the Kimye issue of American Vogue, the Tom Ford editorial for Vogue Paris featuring a sexualised child model, and David LaChapelle’s portrait of a woman snorting a line of diamonds as if they were cocaine. These artefacts help contemporise the exhibition, linking it to today’s fashion climate, where designers have embraced the concept of “ugly” as an aesthetic choice, consciously moving away from notions of classical beauty. Just think of Christopher Kane’s use of Crocs at his London fashion week show; purposefully “ugly” hair and makeup on the catwalk (Preen, Vetements); and oversize silhouettes, nicknamed “lampshading”. Alongside this, there are items that have divided the taste-makers, including the Kimye issue of American Vogue, the Tom Ford editorial for Vogue Paris featuring a sexualised child model, and David LaChapelle’s portrait of a woman snorting a line of diamonds as if they were cocaine. These artefacts help contemporise the exhibition, linking it to today’s fashion climate, where designers have embraced the concept of “ugly” as an aesthetic choice, consciously moving away from notions of classical beauty. Just think of Christopher Kane’s use of Crocs at his London fashion week show; purposefully ugly hair and makeup on the catwalk (Preen, Vetements); and oversized silhouettes, nicknamed “lampshading”.
“There is lots of irony on the catwalk these days,” says Clark. “I think a lot of contemporary designers use humour and referencing in a knowing way. We have featured designers who can twist and turn with the idea of taste and playing with the rules of etiquette.” “There is lots of irony on the catwalk these days,” said Clark. “I think a lot of contemporary designers use humour and referencing in a knowing way. We have featured designers who can twist and turn with the idea of taste and playing with the rules of etiquette.”
With recent fashion talking points such as Moschino paper dolls, Balenciaga’s lawn-chair-print dresses and Dolce & Gabbana’s food-themed collection, the idea of the vulgar is constantly being twisted and questioned. “Hopefully, this exhibition will provoke a bit of thought about what the limits of taste are,” suggests Clark. With recent fashion talking points such as Moschino paper dolls, Balenciaga’s lawn chair-print dresses and Dolce & Gabbana’s food-themed collection, the idea of the vulgar is constantly being twisted and questioned. “Hopefully, this exhibition will provoke a bit of thought about what the limits of taste are,” said Clark.
The Vulgar, Fashion Redefined is at Barbican, London, from 13 October 2016 to 5 February 2017.The Vulgar, Fashion Redefined is at Barbican, London, from 13 October 2016 to 5 February 2017.