This article is from the source 'guardian' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.
You can find the current article at its original source at https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2016/oct/17/insiders-guide-beijing-caged-birds-smog-internet-satire
The article has changed 5 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.
| Version 0 | Version 1 |
|---|---|
| An insider's guide to Beijing: caged birds, smog and internet satire An insider's guide to Beijing: caged birds, smog and internet satire | |
| (about 2 months later) | |
| In five words | In five words |
| Alleys, imperial architecture, concrete sprawl | Alleys, imperial architecture, concrete sprawl |
| Sound of the city | Sound of the city |
| Old Beijingers have a hobby of keeping caged birds that sing – their bright, melodic chirps are a pleasant wake-up call, even if you’re not an early riser. In the narrow hutongs, their tones echo alongside the boisterous conversations of residents, the thick Beijing accent unmistakable anywhere. But these oases are never far away from wide-scale chaos: bad urban planning from the Mao era means that huge roads cut across the fabric of the city, so the sound of cars is a constant in the capital. | Old Beijingers have a hobby of keeping caged birds that sing – their bright, melodic chirps are a pleasant wake-up call, even if you’re not an early riser. In the narrow hutongs, their tones echo alongside the boisterous conversations of residents, the thick Beijing accent unmistakable anywhere. But these oases are never far away from wide-scale chaos: bad urban planning from the Mao era means that huge roads cut across the fabric of the city, so the sound of cars is a constant in the capital. |
| Best building | Best building |
| Hidden in the southern part of the historical area of Qianmen, is one of the most wonderfully preserved wooden theatres in China, Zhengyici, built in 1688. The outside, in keeping with Beijing’s traditional courtyard home style of siheyuan, is inconspicuous. But inside, it’s a two-floor space with fantastic acoustics for classical performances, and fewer than 100 seats. The roofed stage, when flooded with light, flushes bright red – so atmospheric it can give you goosebumps. The theatre has hosted Beijing Opera from masters such as Mei Lanfang, and today it puts on some of the most original performing arts you’ll see in the city, doing “classical with a contemporary twist” very well indeed. | Hidden in the southern part of the historical area of Qianmen, is one of the most wonderfully preserved wooden theatres in China, Zhengyici, built in 1688. The outside, in keeping with Beijing’s traditional courtyard home style of siheyuan, is inconspicuous. But inside, it’s a two-floor space with fantastic acoustics for classical performances, and fewer than 100 seats. The roofed stage, when flooded with light, flushes bright red – so atmospheric it can give you goosebumps. The theatre has hosted Beijing Opera from masters such as Mei Lanfang, and today it puts on some of the most original performing arts you’ll see in the city, doing “classical with a contemporary twist” very well indeed. |
| Worst building | Worst building |
| The ugliest building in Beijing isn’t Rem Koolhaas’s controversial CCTV tower, known commonly as the “big underpants” due to its shape. More repulsive are a series of residential apartment blocks – bland, occasionally communist in style and akin to the UK’s giant housing estates – which can be found bang in the city centre. | The ugliest building in Beijing isn’t Rem Koolhaas’s controversial CCTV tower, known commonly as the “big underpants” due to its shape. More repulsive are a series of residential apartment blocks – bland, occasionally communist in style and akin to the UK’s giant housing estates – which can be found bang in the city centre. |
| These blocks were built in the 90s and 00s after the one-storey housing in the hutongs was torn down for being too “old”, ironic given that many of their rapidly erected replacements have already fallen into disrepair. The complexes on the west side of Beixinqiao station, as well as Min An Xiaoqu nearby, are particularly oppressive. | These blocks were built in the 90s and 00s after the one-storey housing in the hutongs was torn down for being too “old”, ironic given that many of their rapidly erected replacements have already fallen into disrepair. The complexes on the west side of Beixinqiao station, as well as Min An Xiaoqu nearby, are particularly oppressive. |
| Biggest controversy | Biggest controversy |
| A year ago it was used to be pollution. But since hazy skies are less of a pain in the backside now, everyone is talking about how unaffordable the city has become. Housing prices in Beijing have skyrocketed in the last decade, and continue to soar inside the fifth ring road. Prices are closing in on those of London and New York; completely absurd given that the average salary in Beijing is merely a fraction of what it is in these cities (around £500 a month). | A year ago it was used to be pollution. But since hazy skies are less of a pain in the backside now, everyone is talking about how unaffordable the city has become. Housing prices in Beijing have skyrocketed in the last decade, and continue to soar inside the fifth ring road. Prices are closing in on those of London and New York; completely absurd given that the average salary in Beijing is merely a fraction of what it is in these cities (around £500 a month). |
| Only residents with a Beijing household registration, known as a hukou, or who have paid taxes and national insurance for at least five years, can even think about buying. For the migrant workers that prop up much of the labour industry, many don’t even get basic social benefits and are in danger of being kicked out. | Only residents with a Beijing household registration, known as a hukou, or who have paid taxes and national insurance for at least five years, can even think about buying. For the migrant workers that prop up much of the labour industry, many don’t even get basic social benefits and are in danger of being kicked out. |
| Young people from outside Beijing often rent shared rooms, or even dormitory housing (as cheap as £30 or £40 a month), some of them in illegal underground basements. | Young people from outside Beijing often rent shared rooms, or even dormitory housing (as cheap as £30 or £40 a month), some of them in illegal underground basements. |
| Laws imposing higher taxes and deposits on second homes have seen buyers circumventing regulations by getting fake-divorced – a privilege given many don’t even have the right to buy property in the capital. | Laws imposing higher taxes and deposits on second homes have seen buyers circumventing regulations by getting fake-divorced – a privilege given many don’t even have the right to buy property in the capital. |
| Homegrown talent | Homegrown talent |
| There’s not much in the way of English-speaking talent, but Papi Jiang has become China’s biggest internet sensation after her satirical rants on topics of popular culture went viral on Youku (A Chinese version of YouTube) earlier this year. In her classic “survival guide for males”, she enacts what Chinese women really mean when they say reply “nothing” to their partner’s questions, including the line: “You don’t know my menstrual cycle and you dare say you love me?” | There’s not much in the way of English-speaking talent, but Papi Jiang has become China’s biggest internet sensation after her satirical rants on topics of popular culture went viral on Youku (A Chinese version of YouTube) earlier this year. In her classic “survival guide for males”, she enacts what Chinese women really mean when they say reply “nothing” to their partner’s questions, including the line: “You don’t know my menstrual cycle and you dare say you love me?” |
| Although she’s originally from Shanghai, the capital is where Papi Jiang learnt her trade, honing her performance skills at the prestigious Central Academy of Drama, where she returned for graduate studies. | Although she’s originally from Shanghai, the capital is where Papi Jiang learnt her trade, honing her performance skills at the prestigious Central Academy of Drama, where she returned for graduate studies. |
| Papi Jiang doesn’t do live shows – the whole point is that she’s a web celebrity. You may not understand what she is saying, but this mouthy student at the Central Academy of Film is clearly offering Chinese people something they crave. | Papi Jiang doesn’t do live shows – the whole point is that she’s a web celebrity. You may not understand what she is saying, but this mouthy student at the Central Academy of Film is clearly offering Chinese people something they crave. |
| Look on the street | Look on the street |
| Simplicity is a work-in-progress when it comes to high street fashion. While the nation is slowly coming round to the idea of less is more – Beijing is at the forefront of the transition. | Simplicity is a work-in-progress when it comes to high street fashion. While the nation is slowly coming round to the idea of less is more – Beijing is at the forefront of the transition. |
| Long, drapey but slightly old-fashioned dresses are a popular style; for colder days, skinny jeans and sports trainers is a favourite combination with young women. In the summer, “legs out” is go-to for girls – thigh-gripping jeans shorts paired with platforms or high heels (with socks) are everywhere. But while high on the leg is OK, low cuts on top will still get you a stare. | Long, drapey but slightly old-fashioned dresses are a popular style; for colder days, skinny jeans and sports trainers is a favourite combination with young women. In the summer, “legs out” is go-to for girls – thigh-gripping jeans shorts paired with platforms or high heels (with socks) are everywhere. But while high on the leg is OK, low cuts on top will still get you a stare. |
| What is your city’s most under-rated location? | What is your city’s most under-rated location? |
| Next to Zhangzizhonglu underground station is a complex that is mysterious and spectacular. The Duan Qirui Former Government Building, constructed in the early 20th century, is unkempt. Many of the buildings are disused, with the back ones acting as dormitories for Beijing’s Renmin University (a bit underutilised, you would think, given the historical value of the site). Anyone can stroll in, although the complex is gated – say you’re visiting Peanut Cafe and keep striding along. | Next to Zhangzizhonglu underground station is a complex that is mysterious and spectacular. The Duan Qirui Former Government Building, constructed in the early 20th century, is unkempt. Many of the buildings are disused, with the back ones acting as dormitories for Beijing’s Renmin University (a bit underutilised, you would think, given the historical value of the site). Anyone can stroll in, although the complex is gated – say you’re visiting Peanut Cafe and keep striding along. |
| What does Beijing do better than anywhere else? | What does Beijing do better than anywhere else? |
| The Jianbing. These are crispy folded pancakes with an egg cracked on to them and spread out with a wooden spatula, all on a flat round pan. A layer of deep fried crispy dough is later added in the middle, sprinkled with hot and savoury sauces, spring onions and coriander, and then folded over. Different types of pancakes are often on offer, including wholegrain, purple rice and buckwheat rice. | The Jianbing. These are crispy folded pancakes with an egg cracked on to them and spread out with a wooden spatula, all on a flat round pan. A layer of deep fried crispy dough is later added in the middle, sprinkled with hot and savoury sauces, spring onions and coriander, and then folded over. Different types of pancakes are often on offer, including wholegrain, purple rice and buckwheat rice. |
| Best Instagram | Best Instagram |
| Jens Schott Knudsen is a lawyer and freelance photographer who has lived in the Chinese capital since 2012 and has collaborated with historians and urban planners to document the city’s rapid change. He likes to shoot early or late in the day, when Beijing “feels like a different world”, he says. “At 6am it’s quieter, less crowded, but there is still a lot of life on the streets – from sleepy eyed workers to school children lining up for breakfast snacks.” | Jens Schott Knudsen is a lawyer and freelance photographer who has lived in the Chinese capital since 2012 and has collaborated with historians and urban planners to document the city’s rapid change. He likes to shoot early or late in the day, when Beijing “feels like a different world”, he says. “At 6am it’s quieter, less crowded, but there is still a lot of life on the streets – from sleepy eyed workers to school children lining up for breakfast snacks.” |
| How green is your city? | How green is your city? |
| Not very. Beijing is known for its smoggy days, but things are improving since the government decided something had to be done – all the news coverage from abroad was becoming an embarrassment. There has been an effort to shut down polluting industries around the city since, or at least move them elsewhere. | Not very. Beijing is known for its smoggy days, but things are improving since the government decided something had to be done – all the news coverage from abroad was becoming an embarrassment. There has been an effort to shut down polluting industries around the city since, or at least move them elsewhere. |
| While no congestion charge exists, different digits on vehicle number plates are banned from the roads on different days of the week. The city that was once home to “a million bicycles” is forgoing them for public transport and cars though. | While no congestion charge exists, different digits on vehicle number plates are banned from the roads on different days of the week. The city that was once home to “a million bicycles” is forgoing them for public transport and cars though. |
| And to shortcut the route of cleaning up pollution, the city has plans to literally “blow away” urban smog, particularly in winter when it’s worse, by creating “ventilation corridors”, channels for the wind through the city’s green spaces. | And to shortcut the route of cleaning up pollution, the city has plans to literally “blow away” urban smog, particularly in winter when it’s worse, by creating “ventilation corridors”, channels for the wind through the city’s green spaces. |
| Moment in history | Moment in history |
| Beijing was a fortified city with an extensive system of inner and outer city walls, gates, watchtowers and defence that was not just mechanically advanced, but architecturally spectacular. | Beijing was a fortified city with an extensive system of inner and outer city walls, gates, watchtowers and defence that was not just mechanically advanced, but architecturally spectacular. |
| That all changed in 1949 when, with a view to making Beijing the next Moscow, Mao ordered the tearing down of Beijing’s city wall, which ran in a circle along what is now the inner ring road. With the city’s defence destroyed (it took decades to pull down), much of the inside also underwent reconstruction in the 90s – historical areas were heavily rebuilt and turned into featureless apartment blocks. Parts of the inner city have since become heavily commercialised, such as the area near the Drum and Bell tower – the old clock towers of Beijing; Nanluoguxiang alley close by has been made into a famous “snack street” that is now forever chockablock with people and waste – a no-go area for locals. | |
| Top insider’s tip | Top insider’s tip |
| The tourist areas of Nanluoguxiang and popular spots in the old city are best skipped for a more authentic version of old Beijing in Huguosi Dajie, named after a temple that no longer stands – si means temple and huguo mean protect the country. The streets surrounding it are where locals go for snacks (xiao chi); Huguosi Xiaochi is a popular joint, as well as many other restaurants on the same stretch. There used to be a huge market, but when it was shut down in recent years, many of the stalls spilt on to Mianhua Hutong, which now overflows with food vendors and fresh produce. | The tourist areas of Nanluoguxiang and popular spots in the old city are best skipped for a more authentic version of old Beijing in Huguosi Dajie, named after a temple that no longer stands – si means temple and huguo mean protect the country. The streets surrounding it are where locals go for snacks (xiao chi); Huguosi Xiaochi is a popular joint, as well as many other restaurants on the same stretch. There used to be a huge market, but when it was shut down in recent years, many of the stalls spilt on to Mianhua Hutong, which now overflows with food vendors and fresh produce. |
| Five to follow | Five to follow |
| Beijing Postcards | Beijing Postcards |
| Sinica Podcast | Sinica Podcast |
| Do hits | Do hits |
| City explorers | City explorers |
| Ancient Beijing | Ancient Beijing |
| About me | About me |
| Yuan is a Beijing-born, Beijing-based journalist and writer who has studied in the UK. You can follow her on Twitter here. Her Beijing food adventures are documented on her Instagram account here. | Yuan is a Beijing-born, Beijing-based journalist and writer who has studied in the UK. You can follow her on Twitter here. Her Beijing food adventures are documented on her Instagram account here. |