Insider's guide to Chișinău: communist brutalism, cars and elements of chaos
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http://www.theguardian.com/cities/2016/oct/24/insiders-guide-chisinau-moldova-communist-brutalism Version 0 of 1. In five words Where everything is just beginning. What sound defines your city? Chișinău can feel like a bumpy maxi-taxi ride: sweaty in the summer, muddy and soaked in winter, and crammed at peak hours, with a driver who counts the ticket money, talks on the phone and drives, all at once. Best building The diverse architecture reflects the different eras of Chișinău. Next to the concrete, grey brutalism of Soviet buildings and the modern high-rises, some architectural jewels have lasted throughout the city’s history – though some have been neglected. The recently restored National Art Museum showcases neoclassical style with gothic elements. It took 11 years and a decisive €1m grant from Romania to bring it back to life. The museum was built in 1901 as a gymnasium for girls. Unusually, its construction was funded by a woman, Natalia Dadiani. She was married to a Georgian prince and was known for promoting women’s rights to education. When Moldova came under the control of the Soviet Union after 1945, the Central Committee of the Communist Party would call the building home for more than two decades. Homegrown talent The song Sub Pielea Mea has seen the band Carla’s Dreams reach fame far beyond the borders of Moldova. The band members are known for their use of local slang and trademark look: during public appearances all the members paint their faces, and wear hoods and glasses to protect their identities. Look on the street Biggest controversy Lately there always seems to be controversies surrounding the city’s mayor, whether it is about the potholes in the newly built road or him kissing a church icon. First elected in 2007, Dorin Chirtoacă has managed to secure his third mandate by convincing the electorate that otherwise the worst might happen: a pro-Russian candidate could take over city hall. In a dysfunctional city, he has become a character in urban folklore and has inspired numerous memes with the headline, “It is Chirtoacă’s fault” about things that go wrong in the city, the country and the world. Most under-rated location? On the edge of Chișinău lies the botanical garden. Sheltering countless species of flowers, both indoor and outdoor gardens, the venue is a perfect city escape. How green is your city? With an obvious imbalance between development and sustainability, Chișinău is the most polluted city in the country. It is home to shrinking green spaces, a growing number of cars and one of the largest dumpsites in Europe. Despite NGO-led initiatives, the city lacks a coordinated green strategy. What stands out, though, is rising bicycle ownership and interest in cycling: VeloHora, the largest cycling competition in eastern Europe, hosted 14,000 participants from Moldova and abroad this year on the streets of Chișinău. Worst building In 2015 the French embassy in Chișinău found itself partially surrounded by a multistorey monster residential complex. This was despite a 2011 ban by city hall on constructions in Chișinău’s historical district. It’s reflective of a rising trend of unlawful, poorly planned developments in the city. Moment in history The April 2009 protests were explosive and unexpected. When the Communist party won a third term amid suspicions of fraud, winning almost 50% of the vote, peaceful protests started in the city, but the news spread fast on social networks and more young people took to the streets. Soon the situation degenerated into violent clashes between protesters and the armed forces. The results were subsequently cancelled and a new round of elections were organised. However, hopes of the young generation for a better future have not materialised, despite government changes. Best local artist The journalist and artist Vasile Botnaru makes use of some good local wine to create his minimalist and picturesque paintings. He even made a political statement with his dry wine art, by creating a portrait of Russian government official Gennady Onishchenko, who was associated with imposing an embargo on Moldovan wines in 2013, due to its links with the EU. What does your city do better than anywhere else? Inscribing the country’s national identity crisis on the city’s walls through graffiti. Moldova’s contemporary history has been a greatly politicised struggle between “Moldovanism” and “Romanianism”. Best Instagram Fascinated with documenting the human side of post-communist countries, Ramin Mazur is an established photojournalist from Moldova. His works have been published in the Financial Times, Der Spiegel, the Telegraph and Al Jazeera among others, and have been displayed in exhibitions around the world. Top insider tips Visit a range of festivals: the international documentary film festival Cronograf, shown in a communist-style cinema; the sweetest festival in eastern Europe, “Mai Dulce”; and follow KLumea for more festivals across Moldova. Finally, get a taste of underground culture at Zemstvei Museum, or enjoy a Dionysian experience at the Wine Vernissage, the local wine-makers’ yearly gathering. Five to follow Nata Albot I love Chisinau Zpace Ion Stefanita Etno Jazz Festival About me Anastasia Costisanu is a freelance journalist and recent graduate in journalism, media and globalisation. You can follow her on LinkedIn here. |