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| Uncool Camden: will redevelopment ruin London's legendary market? | |
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| Camden may be one of London’s most instantly recognisable neighbourhoods, but Londoners can be a little snobby about the place. The area has a distinct character, which you notice as soon as you leave the tube and head past colourful facades adorned with garish murals and enormous three-dimensional signs. It’s no longer as cool as it was, but most Londoners will admit to having hung out here at some point, watching gigs at sticky-floored clubs and mooching round the markets. Come to Camden and you know what you will get: market stalls, music, Italian goths, tattoos and T-shirts of dubious taste. | Camden may be one of London’s most instantly recognisable neighbourhoods, but Londoners can be a little snobby about the place. The area has a distinct character, which you notice as soon as you leave the tube and head past colourful facades adorned with garish murals and enormous three-dimensional signs. It’s no longer as cool as it was, but most Londoners will admit to having hung out here at some point, watching gigs at sticky-floored clubs and mooching round the markets. Come to Camden and you know what you will get: market stalls, music, Italian goths, tattoos and T-shirts of dubious taste. |
| The area was part of the first wave of London gentrification, starting in the 1960s, with the opening of the Roundhouse as a performance venue, followed swiftly by the arrival of Compendium Books, which sold political and avant garde literature. These gave the place a countercultural buzz and new residents were enticed by the stirrings of coolness, cheap housing and proximity to central London. | The area was part of the first wave of London gentrification, starting in the 1960s, with the opening of the Roundhouse as a performance venue, followed swiftly by the arrival of Compendium Books, which sold political and avant garde literature. These gave the place a countercultural buzz and new residents were enticed by the stirrings of coolness, cheap housing and proximity to central London. |
| As industry started to leave the area, opportunities arose. An old timber yard by the canal was taken over in 1972 by a group of craftspeople, and on 30 March 1974 they opened the first Camden Lock market, with 16 stalls. The first food stall arrived shortly after, opened by June Foulds, a former Olympic silver medallist who began selling cakes and pies from a dilapidated old tea stall. Soon other markets opened nearby – Union Street, Stables Market and the Canal Market. | As industry started to leave the area, opportunities arose. An old timber yard by the canal was taken over in 1972 by a group of craftspeople, and on 30 March 1974 they opened the first Camden Lock market, with 16 stalls. The first food stall arrived shortly after, opened by June Foulds, a former Olympic silver medallist who began selling cakes and pies from a dilapidated old tea stall. Soon other markets opened nearby – Union Street, Stables Market and the Canal Market. |
| Camden became increasingly fashionable during the punk era: The Clash were based nearby and visited regularly | Camden became increasingly fashionable during the punk era: The Clash were based nearby and visited regularly |
| The markets rapidly expanded as Camden’s new arrivals began decking out their Victorian homes with antiques and crafts. The area became increasingly fashionable during the punk era: The Clash were based nearby and regularly visited Compendium, while the Roundhouse and Dingwalls hosted scene-defining gigs. By the 1980s Camden’s markets were a London fixture: a fresher alternative to Portobello Road, with the music scene giving them a youthful, anti-establishment feel. | The markets rapidly expanded as Camden’s new arrivals began decking out their Victorian homes with antiques and crafts. The area became increasingly fashionable during the punk era: The Clash were based nearby and regularly visited Compendium, while the Roundhouse and Dingwalls hosted scene-defining gigs. By the 1980s Camden’s markets were a London fixture: a fresher alternative to Portobello Road, with the music scene giving them a youthful, anti-establishment feel. |
| “The accent throughout is on the young, fashionable and wild” read a typical listing in a London guidebook as tourists flocked to Camden Lock. Drawn by the area’s young vibe, MTV moved into Terry Farrell’s old, postmodern TV-am building overlooking Camden Lock in 1993 – but by now Camden’s star was starting to wane, its veneer of cool fading as the high street succumbed to commercialisation. When Compendium closed in 2001 – having survived punk, Britpop, and the pop-up shop Prince opened nearby in 1994 – it felt like the end of an era. It was replaced by a shop selling DM boots. | “The accent throughout is on the young, fashionable and wild” read a typical listing in a London guidebook as tourists flocked to Camden Lock. Drawn by the area’s young vibe, MTV moved into Terry Farrell’s old, postmodern TV-am building overlooking Camden Lock in 1993 – but by now Camden’s star was starting to wane, its veneer of cool fading as the high street succumbed to commercialisation. When Compendium closed in 2001 – having survived punk, Britpop, and the pop-up shop Prince opened nearby in 1994 – it felt like the end of an era. It was replaced by a shop selling DM boots. |
| But still Camden Lock market prevails. Located between Chalk Farm Road and Regent’s Canal, it is said to attract 28 million tourists a year, who stream towards the canal from the tube station in a multilingual torrent, oblivious to Camden’s diminishing reputation and happy to take in the colourful atmosphere. Camden Lock still features a number of craftsmen and women among the higgledy-piggledy selection of stalls, shops, bars and restaurants that spill across cobbled yards and old warehouses. | But still Camden Lock market prevails. Located between Chalk Farm Road and Regent’s Canal, it is said to attract 28 million tourists a year, who stream towards the canal from the tube station in a multilingual torrent, oblivious to Camden’s diminishing reputation and happy to take in the colourful atmosphere. Camden Lock still features a number of craftsmen and women among the higgledy-piggledy selection of stalls, shops, bars and restaurants that spill across cobbled yards and old warehouses. |
| 28 million tourists a year arrive in a multilingual torrent, oblivious to Camden’s diminishing reputation | 28 million tourists a year arrive in a multilingual torrent, oblivious to Camden’s diminishing reputation |
| It feels timeless, but change is coming. Across the road from Camden Lock, a pair of cranes tower over a derelict Victorian terrace behind which the Canal Market once stood. This is the first stage of a redevelopment project by landowners Market Tech, who are planning to transform Camden, market by market. At Camden Lock, stallholders are worried. Will the new changes kill the place stone dead? | It feels timeless, but change is coming. Across the road from Camden Lock, a pair of cranes tower over a derelict Victorian terrace behind which the Canal Market once stood. This is the first stage of a redevelopment project by landowners Market Tech, who are planning to transform Camden, market by market. At Camden Lock, stallholders are worried. Will the new changes kill the place stone dead? |
| “I’m not against change, it’s the way it’s being carried out,” says Bill (not his real name – all the traders interviewed wished to remain anonymous for fear of upsetting Market Tech). “A market requires people to help each other out – if somebody runs out of pound coins or runs out of gas, they know they can turn to somebody for help. That’s going out the window because the people at the top don’t support us. We don’t know who to contact when we have a problem. We send an email but never get any response. People are starting to assume the worst.” | “I’m not against change, it’s the way it’s being carried out,” says Bill (not his real name – all the traders interviewed wished to remain anonymous for fear of upsetting Market Tech). “A market requires people to help each other out – if somebody runs out of pound coins or runs out of gas, they know they can turn to somebody for help. That’s going out the window because the people at the top don’t support us. We don’t know who to contact when we have a problem. We send an email but never get any response. People are starting to assume the worst.” |
| Numerous stallholders expressed similar grievances, worried about Market Tech’s plans for their previously independent space. When would the new development begin, and what would it mean for their current businesses? Would more brands appear at the market? Why the obsession with food and entertainment? And why are traders insisting that nobody from Market Tech sufficiently appreciates their concerns? | Numerous stallholders expressed similar grievances, worried about Market Tech’s plans for their previously independent space. When would the new development begin, and what would it mean for their current businesses? Would more brands appear at the market? Why the obsession with food and entertainment? And why are traders insisting that nobody from Market Tech sufficiently appreciates their concerns? |
| In response, Market Tech issued a statement insisting that its market manager enjoys a “regular and positive dialogue” with traders, and the company is “fully committed to building and maintaining Camden’s rich heritage and unique markets, to develop a vibrant and creative atmosphere and a place for independents, start-ups and small businesses to grow”. | In response, Market Tech issued a statement insisting that its market manager enjoys a “regular and positive dialogue” with traders, and the company is “fully committed to building and maintaining Camden’s rich heritage and unique markets, to develop a vibrant and creative atmosphere and a place for independents, start-ups and small businesses to grow”. |
| The entity we call Camden Market is actually several markets in the area. In 2014, Market Tech began buying four of the sites – Camden Lock, Canal Market, Stables Market and Union Street Market – uniting them under a single owner for the first time. Market Tech, owned by Israeli businessman Teddy Sagi, has bought other Camden sites, including a stretch of high street, the Barfly club and the Open University building. Sagi made his fortune through online gambling company Playtech, which he founded in 1999 following a short spell in an Israeli prison for manipulating bond prices. | The entity we call Camden Market is actually several markets in the area. In 2014, Market Tech began buying four of the sites – Camden Lock, Canal Market, Stables Market and Union Street Market – uniting them under a single owner for the first time. Market Tech, owned by Israeli businessman Teddy Sagi, has bought other Camden sites, including a stretch of high street, the Barfly club and the Open University building. Sagi made his fortune through online gambling company Playtech, which he founded in 1999 following a short spell in an Israeli prison for manipulating bond prices. |
| It is Market Tech’s cranes that loom over Chalk Farm Road, where they are in the process of redeveloping the old Canal Market into Hawley Wharf. This will be completed in 2018 and will feature a new market, shops, 195 private and affordable homes, a cinema, open spaces, refurbished railway arches and a primary school. At Union Street, the long-term plan is to sweep away the ramshackle old market and construct a new, two-storey market block with boutique hotel. | It is Market Tech’s cranes that loom over Chalk Farm Road, where they are in the process of redeveloping the old Canal Market into Hawley Wharf. This will be completed in 2018 and will feature a new market, shops, 195 private and affordable homes, a cinema, open spaces, refurbished railway arches and a primary school. At Union Street, the long-term plan is to sweep away the ramshackle old market and construct a new, two-storey market block with boutique hotel. |
| Traders at Camden Lock are eyeing the schemes with concern. In February, Market Tech secured planning permission to replace a two-storey block from the 1990s with new retail and office units, adding a new bridge and improving access from the high street. These are, the company said, “focused on a sensitive approach to improving access to the market and the canalside, with a design that will preserve and enhance the fantastic heritage of its surrounds, which is integral to its appeal.” | Traders at Camden Lock are eyeing the schemes with concern. In February, Market Tech secured planning permission to replace a two-storey block from the 1990s with new retail and office units, adding a new bridge and improving access from the high street. These are, the company said, “focused on a sensitive approach to improving access to the market and the canalside, with a design that will preserve and enhance the fantastic heritage of its surrounds, which is integral to its appeal.” |
| It also promised to resurrect a long-disused stretch of covered canal known as Dead Dog Basin, as well as the miles of tunnels collectively known as the Camden Catacombs. Since then, however, everything has gone quiet. | It also promised to resurrect a long-disused stretch of covered canal known as Dead Dog Basin, as well as the miles of tunnels collectively known as the Camden Catacombs. Since then, however, everything has gone quiet. |
| “There’s no communication about the plans, no reassurances or explanations about what is happening,” says Jill, a longtime trader, who points out that several traders will lose their shops in this development. “It’s a disparaging way of treating tenants.” | “There’s no communication about the plans, no reassurances or explanations about what is happening,” says Jill, a longtime trader, who points out that several traders will lose their shops in this development. “It’s a disparaging way of treating tenants.” |
| The food market in the cobbled West Yard has been managed by street-food specialists Kerb since the summer, when the market’s existing food stalls were given notice or invited to re-apply at increased rates. Kerb says that after a rigorous consultation process, more than half of previous traders were offered a space in the food market, or an alternative Camden location. | The food market in the cobbled West Yard has been managed by street-food specialists Kerb since the summer, when the market’s existing food stalls were given notice or invited to re-apply at increased rates. Kerb says that after a rigorous consultation process, more than half of previous traders were offered a space in the food market, or an alternative Camden location. |
| “This space is basically being sublet to Kerb,” says Felix, who has worked at the market since the 1980s. “That indicates to me how [Market Tech] want to run the market – they will franchise out different bits so they become somebody else’s responsibility. I never liked the food offering because it doesn’t mix well with retail. It’s a better set-up now, not as cramped – but it’s still poorly managed, and they treated people so badly.” | “This space is basically being sublet to Kerb,” says Felix, who has worked at the market since the 1980s. “That indicates to me how [Market Tech] want to run the market – they will franchise out different bits so they become somebody else’s responsibility. I never liked the food offering because it doesn’t mix well with retail. It’s a better set-up now, not as cramped – but it’s still poorly managed, and they treated people so badly.” |
| Most traders agree that Camden Lock needed to change. Its popularity can make it uncomfortable, with crowds jostling in cramped yards and spilling over the towpath, causing occasional conflict with cyclists and joggers. | Most traders agree that Camden Lock needed to change. Its popularity can make it uncomfortable, with crowds jostling in cramped yards and spilling over the towpath, causing occasional conflict with cyclists and joggers. |
| Camden Lock has traditionally fostered a separate and somewhat more refined identity to the neighbouring Stables Market, but now they are under the same ownership those lines are blurred. Older traders decry the arrival of stalls selling touristy tat, while pointing out the idiosyncratic delights still to be found among the alleys and passages. There’s a shop specialising in leather bags and belts, another selling vintage board games, several record shops, clothes shops, antiques stalls and jewellers selling handmade designs. | Camden Lock has traditionally fostered a separate and somewhat more refined identity to the neighbouring Stables Market, but now they are under the same ownership those lines are blurred. Older traders decry the arrival of stalls selling touristy tat, while pointing out the idiosyncratic delights still to be found among the alleys and passages. There’s a shop specialising in leather bags and belts, another selling vintage board games, several record shops, clothes shops, antiques stalls and jewellers selling handmade designs. |
| Tourists soak up the atmosphere, eat some food but don’t actually buy anything … | Tourists soak up the atmosphere, eat some food but don’t actually buy anything … |
| But into this tight network have recently encroached brands such as Storm and Irregular Choice. Traders fear this will change the nature of the market and lead to rent increases. “What they are trying to do is open up the market to the high street, and that’s a good idea in principle,” says Bill. “But you don’t want the market to become the high street – it’s a different beast.” | But into this tight network have recently encroached brands such as Storm and Irregular Choice. Traders fear this will change the nature of the market and lead to rent increases. “What they are trying to do is open up the market to the high street, and that’s a good idea in principle,” says Bill. “But you don’t want the market to become the high street – it’s a different beast.” |
| Another concern is the increased focus on food and the night-time economy, with parts of the market area being regularly fenced off for events. “They said they wanted to open it up, make the market less claustrophobic, encourage craftspeople to return and make it more attractive to Londoners,” says Felix. “But it needed something: tourists soak up the atmosphere and eat some food, but they don’t actually buy anything. There had been a drain of craftspeople because the previous management let the quality of goods decline.” (There have been whispers that remaining craftsmen and women will be transferred to “glass boxes” in the proposed new building, so tourists can ogle them working “like monkeys in a cage”.) | Another concern is the increased focus on food and the night-time economy, with parts of the market area being regularly fenced off for events. “They said they wanted to open it up, make the market less claustrophobic, encourage craftspeople to return and make it more attractive to Londoners,” says Felix. “But it needed something: tourists soak up the atmosphere and eat some food, but they don’t actually buy anything. There had been a drain of craftspeople because the previous management let the quality of goods decline.” (There have been whispers that remaining craftsmen and women will be transferred to “glass boxes” in the proposed new building, so tourists can ogle them working “like monkeys in a cage”.) |
| Market Tech is also trying to persuade traders to sign up to its own electronic point-of-sale (Epos) system. “It’s going to be written into our contracts that we have to use a tablet they provide that will be connected to their system, so they know the details of every transaction,” explains Jill. “They are also proposing we use their payment system – this is how shopping centres are run: they take a cut of turnover rather than rent.” Market Tech says the Epos system is provided at zero cost, and will improve the experience of shoppers by allowing them to pay for anything by card. Traders, though, fear they will be selected for their turnover rather than the quality of their products. | Market Tech is also trying to persuade traders to sign up to its own electronic point-of-sale (Epos) system. “It’s going to be written into our contracts that we have to use a tablet they provide that will be connected to their system, so they know the details of every transaction,” explains Jill. “They are also proposing we use their payment system – this is how shopping centres are run: they take a cut of turnover rather than rent.” Market Tech says the Epos system is provided at zero cost, and will improve the experience of shoppers by allowing them to pay for anything by card. Traders, though, fear they will be selected for their turnover rather than the quality of their products. |
| “They want us to do things that only small chains can do, like marketing ourselves online,” complains Roger, a craftsman based in the covered Market Hall. “We don’t have time to do this sort of thing. This new payment system – it works for the new businesses they are bringing in, the small chains, but not us. It is very difficult for us.” | “They want us to do things that only small chains can do, like marketing ourselves online,” complains Roger, a craftsman based in the covered Market Hall. “We don’t have time to do this sort of thing. This new payment system – it works for the new businesses they are bringing in, the small chains, but not us. It is very difficult for us.” |
| Of course, all of these fears could be groundless. Market Tech’s plans do not entail such a radical restructuring of Camden Lock that it will be wiped from the map. But it will be changed irrevocably. | Of course, all of these fears could be groundless. Market Tech’s plans do not entail such a radical restructuring of Camden Lock that it will be wiped from the map. But it will be changed irrevocably. |
| Traders claim that nobody at Market Tech answers emails or holds group meetings, and that with such a high turnover of staff, stallholders have no idea who to talk to. Market Tech insists there has been “extensive consultation with existing traders, the local community, interest and conservation groups, and visitors to the area” – but the five traders interviewed said that communication was virtually nil. | Traders claim that nobody at Market Tech answers emails or holds group meetings, and that with such a high turnover of staff, stallholders have no idea who to talk to. Market Tech insists there has been “extensive consultation with existing traders, the local community, interest and conservation groups, and visitors to the area” – but the five traders interviewed said that communication was virtually nil. |
| “That’s been a deliberate break with the past; we always had regular meetings before,” says Bill, before hitting on the issue that seems to be at the heart of the Camden Market controversy. “People who have worked here for 15 or 20 years deserve more credit and respect.” | “That’s been a deliberate break with the past; we always had regular meetings before,” says Bill, before hitting on the issue that seems to be at the heart of the Camden Market controversy. “People who have worked here for 15 or 20 years deserve more credit and respect.” |
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