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Insider's guide to Ouagadougou: singed chicken, potholes, but no plastic bags Insider's guide to Ouagadougou: singed chicken, potholes, but no plastic bags Insider's guide to Ouagadougou: singed chicken, potholes, but no plastic bags Insider's guide to Ouagadougou: singed chicken, potholes, but no plastic bags
(about 11 hours later)
Ouagadougou in five wordsOuagadougou in five words
Hospitality, culture, singed chickens, mopedsHospitality, culture, singed chickens, mopeds
Sound of the citySound of the city
This sound conveys all the activities in the great Rood Wooko market of Ouagadougou. Located in the middle of the city, it is the centre of social activity, culture and trade. Butchers, clothing vendors, electrical shops, salons – you name it, it’s got it. In the clip you can hear the call of street vendors, the honking of vehicles and the sound of customers arguing for the best price.This sound conveys all the activities in the great Rood Wooko market of Ouagadougou. Located in the middle of the city, it is the centre of social activity, culture and trade. Butchers, clothing vendors, electrical shops, salons – you name it, it’s got it. In the clip you can hear the call of street vendors, the honking of vehicles and the sound of customers arguing for the best price.
Best buildingBest building
This hall of fame is located at the end of boulevard Muammar Gaddafi. Originally called the Memorial to National Heroes, it was renamed the Hall of Martyrs in May 2015 in homage to the victims of the popular uprising in Burkina Faso, and in memory of those who died.This hall of fame is located at the end of boulevard Muammar Gaddafi. Originally called the Memorial to National Heroes, it was renamed the Hall of Martyrs in May 2015 in homage to the victims of the popular uprising in Burkina Faso, and in memory of those who died.
What this city does better than anywhere elseWhat this city does better than anywhere else
The kitchen is rich and varied in Burkina, and during a trip to Ouaga, you should sink your teeth into the singed chicken known as poulet bicyclette. This delicious dish can be eaten with different vegetables accompanied by Brakina, the local beer, or various other natural juices (tamarind and tropical fruits juices). Boiled beans, peas and other leaf dishes are also local delicacies. You can order these in restaurants – but for the most authentic taste, go to the local markets.The kitchen is rich and varied in Burkina, and during a trip to Ouaga, you should sink your teeth into the singed chicken known as poulet bicyclette. This delicious dish can be eaten with different vegetables accompanied by Brakina, the local beer, or various other natural juices (tamarind and tropical fruits juices). Boiled beans, peas and other leaf dishes are also local delicacies. You can order these in restaurants – but for the most authentic taste, go to the local markets.
Homegrown talentHomegrown talent
Sa Majesté Askoy is a young Burkinabé rap artist, and currently one of the most popular musicians in Ouagadougou, who performs in the local Mooré language. He has participated in many music festivals and performances in the west African region, and in our city, he can be seen performing at the Institut Burkinabè or P’tit Bazar.Sa Majesté Askoy is a young Burkinabé rap artist, and currently one of the most popular musicians in Ouagadougou, who performs in the local Mooré language. He has participated in many music festivals and performances in the west African region, and in our city, he can be seen performing at the Institut Burkinabè or P’tit Bazar.
Street styleStreet style
The Faso Dan Fani is a colourful local cotton fabric used by many Ouagalais to promote the country’s culture.The Faso Dan Fani is a colourful local cotton fabric used by many Ouagalais to promote the country’s culture.
How green is the city?How green is the city?
Our city is full of many beautiful green spaces, like the Bangreweogo nature reserve, which is a perfect place to take a stroll away from the heat. Or, catch a live music performance in the Jardin de l’amitié, a culture park with a relaxing atmosphere. In order to protect these parks and other green spaces in Ouaga, a law prohibits the importation, marketing and distribution of packaging and non-biodegradable plastic bags in the country. This really helps to keep our spaces free from garbage.Our city is full of many beautiful green spaces, like the Bangreweogo nature reserve, which is a perfect place to take a stroll away from the heat. Or, catch a live music performance in the Jardin de l’amitié, a culture park with a relaxing atmosphere. In order to protect these parks and other green spaces in Ouaga, a law prohibits the importation, marketing and distribution of packaging and non-biodegradable plastic bags in the country. This really helps to keep our spaces free from garbage.
Best InstagramBest Instagram
Instagram is not a well-used social media platform in Burkina Faso as the number of people with a mobile internet connection is very low. However, this popular account provides a nice insight into what everyday life is like living in Ouaga.Instagram is not a well-used social media platform in Burkina Faso as the number of people with a mobile internet connection is very low. However, this popular account provides a nice insight into what everyday life is like living in Ouaga.
Biggest controversyBiggest controversy
The most recent controversy in Ouagadougou and elsewhere in the country is linked to a vigilante-style defence group called Koglweogo. This militia group, whose name means “guardians of the forest” in Mooré, was created by rural populations to stop, punish and judge criminals. The Koglweogo have multiplied around the major cities in central Burkina Faso, to counter increasing instances of robbery. Some are volunteers; others work on behalf of people who believe they have suffered, in most cases, from livestock or crop stealing.The most recent controversy in Ouagadougou and elsewhere in the country is linked to a vigilante-style defence group called Koglweogo. This militia group, whose name means “guardians of the forest” in Mooré, was created by rural populations to stop, punish and judge criminals. The Koglweogo have multiplied around the major cities in central Burkina Faso, to counter increasing instances of robbery. Some are volunteers; others work on behalf of people who believe they have suffered, in most cases, from livestock or crop stealing.
Some of the population believes that this group contributes to the safety of neighbourhoods, while others oppose the violent practices of Koglweogo, which they believe do not respect human rights.Some of the population believes that this group contributes to the safety of neighbourhoods, while others oppose the violent practices of Koglweogo, which they believe do not respect human rights.
Worst buildingWorst building
Not quite a building, but the Boulevard des Tansoba is the worst road in the city. Connecting the interchange of the East National Highway 4 with the Ouaga 2000 road, the Boulevard runs through four districts for a total of 6.5km, and is the worst piece of construction and infrastructure, according to many Ouagalais.Not quite a building, but the Boulevard des Tansoba is the worst road in the city. Connecting the interchange of the East National Highway 4 with the Ouaga 2000 road, the Boulevard runs through four districts for a total of 6.5km, and is the worst piece of construction and infrastructure, according to many Ouagalais.
Built in the early 1990s, the road is seriously deteriorating, with huge potholes causing accidents. Due to complaints from the public, the authorities planned to renovate the route before the end of 2016. But 2017 is fast approaching ...Built in the early 1990s, the road is seriously deteriorating, with huge potholes causing accidents. Due to complaints from the public, the authorities planned to renovate the route before the end of 2016. But 2017 is fast approaching ...
Moment in historyMoment in history
The fight against the amendment of Article 37 of the constitution – which limits presidential time in office to two terms of five years – led to a popular uprising across the country in October 2014. The uprising was a result of former president Blaise Compaoré’s wishes to amend the constitution to enable him to run for a fifth term. He had already been in power for 27 years. And so, millions of Burkinabé took to the streets in big cities like Ouagadougou and Bobo Dioulasso, to demand his resignation. The fight against the amendment of Article 37 of the constitution – which limits presidential time in office to two terms of five years – led to a popular uprising in October 2014. Former president Blaise Compaoré wanted to amend the constitution to become a candidate once again, after already holding power for 27 years. And so, millions of Burkinabé took to the streets in big cities like Ouagadougou and Bobo Dioulasso, to demand his resignation. Being the capital and the seat of power in the country, Ouagadougou was home to a significant political uprising.
As the capital city, Ouagadougou became a hotbed of political action, after officers of the Presidential Security Regiment that had guarded Compaoré staged a coup, during which 14 unarmed protesters were killed. An uprising followed in October, when protesters called for a blockade of parliament; the National Assembly and several other public buildings were set on fire. Soon after the uprising, Compaoré dissolved his government and fled across the border to Ivory Coast. The National Assembly and several other public buildings were burned, and Compaoré was forced to resign, and fled across the border to Ivory Coast.
Insider’s tipInsider’s tip
Located about 30km from the heart of Ouagadougou, the site of the Sculpture Symposium on Granite Laongo is a field of artistic expression, where many sculptors from Africa and the whole world have left their mark. Artists come here in February to leave their work on the stones.Located about 30km from the heart of Ouagadougou, the site of the Sculpture Symposium on Granite Laongo is a field of artistic expression, where many sculptors from Africa and the whole world have left their mark. Artists come here in February to leave their work on the stones.
The biannual Fespaco festival, devoted to Pan-African cinema, is also worth visiting, to catch some of the best up-and-coming African films screened across the city.The biannual Fespaco festival, devoted to Pan-African cinema, is also worth visiting, to catch some of the best up-and-coming African films screened across the city.
Five to followFive to follow
Burkina Cahier CultureBurkina Cahier Culture
Amélie GuéAmélie Gué
Smockey AbazonSmockey Abazon
Boukari OuédraogoBoukari Ouédraogo
Kindo BassératouKindo Bassératou
About meAbout me
Jérôme William Bationo is a journalist and blogger from Burkina Faso. He is currently chief-editor of the journal Info Science and Culture, and works as an art critic and correspondent. You can follow him here.Jérôme William Bationo is a journalist and blogger from Burkina Faso. He is currently chief-editor of the journal Info Science and Culture, and works as an art critic and correspondent. You can follow him here.