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| Mapping country: modern technology adds a new chapter to an ancient story Mapping country: modern technology adds a new chapter to an ancient story | |
| (about 4 hours later) | |
| As the helicopter lifted, Tjawina Porter murmured to herself in Ngaanyatjarra. It had been perhaps half a century since she set foot on the sacred site, a prohibitive distance away except by air. | As the helicopter lifted, Tjawina Porter murmured to herself in Ngaanyatjarra. It had been perhaps half a century since she set foot on the sacred site, a prohibitive distance away except by air. |
| The senior Ngaanyatjarra woman from Tjukurla had flown over the area in 2014 and thought she’d relocated the site, Talykira. Now she would walk it. | The senior Ngaanyatjarra woman from Tjukurla had flown over the area in 2014 and thought she’d relocated the site, Talykira. Now she would walk it. |
| Supporting her 80-something-year-old frame on a metal cane and accompanied by her daughter and niece, Porter whispered as she walked. The site did – and perhaps sometimes still does – hold water. There was none there now but still Porter was sure this was the place. | Supporting her 80-something-year-old frame on a metal cane and accompanied by her daughter and niece, Porter whispered as she walked. The site did – and perhaps sometimes still does – hold water. There was none there now but still Porter was sure this was the place. |
| The three sat down and Porter told the story of the Bush Turkey Dreaming, crooking her finger to signify the protagonist, Nganurti. Talykira marks a significant site in the story of the Nganurti’s travels and antics across the land while seeking a source of fire. It also marks an important water source in this desert region. | The three sat down and Porter told the story of the Bush Turkey Dreaming, crooking her finger to signify the protagonist, Nganurti. Talykira marks a significant site in the story of the Nganurti’s travels and antics across the land while seeking a source of fire. It also marks an important water source in this desert region. |
| Talykira holds significant cultural importance for many if not all the Aboriginal people who gathered in September for a five-day dual-purpose camp in a remote part of the Central Desert, just east of the Western Australian border. | Talykira holds significant cultural importance for many if not all the Aboriginal people who gathered in September for a five-day dual-purpose camp in a remote part of the Central Desert, just east of the Western Australian border. |
| At night the men sang of Tjukurpa, the Dreaming, around a campfire. In daylight hours groups set off for site visits and burning trips. | At night the men sang of Tjukurpa, the Dreaming, around a campfire. In daylight hours groups set off for site visits and burning trips. |
| Senior men and women from communities across the Northern Territory, South Australia and Western Australia had convened to discuss business and visit a number of sacred sites within the Katiti-Petermann and Ngaanyatjarra Indigenous protected areas in the NT and WA, accompanied by anthropologists. | Senior men and women from communities across the Northern Territory, South Australia and Western Australia had convened to discuss business and visit a number of sacred sites within the Katiti-Petermann and Ngaanyatjarra Indigenous protected areas in the NT and WA, accompanied by anthropologists. |
| By confirming and noting the sacred sites, the Central Land and Ngaanyatjarra councils – which represent Indigenous groups in the Central Desert region – seek to equip itself with cultural information about traditional country, ownership and seniority. They can then help Indigenous groups protect and preserve their sites from any adverse affects from mining, tourism and development projects on the rest of their land. | By confirming and noting the sacred sites, the Central Land and Ngaanyatjarra councils – which represent Indigenous groups in the Central Desert region – seek to equip itself with cultural information about traditional country, ownership and seniority. They can then help Indigenous groups protect and preserve their sites from any adverse affects from mining, tourism and development projects on the rest of their land. |
| While these site searches went on, senior people and young Indigenous rangers conducted burns from the ground and, instructed by Central Land Council experts, from the sky. | While these site searches went on, senior people and young Indigenous rangers conducted burns from the ground and, instructed by Central Land Council experts, from the sky. |
| The burning clears patches of thick dry fuel in the lead-up to summer, but senior people must first find their stories in the landscape to ensure they won’t be destroyed by the fires. | The burning clears patches of thick dry fuel in the lead-up to summer, but senior people must first find their stories in the landscape to ensure they won’t be destroyed by the fires. |
| “Burning trips guided by the elders are as much about fire management as they are about passing on valuable ecological and cultural knowledge to younger generations,” says the Central Land Council director, David Ross. | “Burning trips guided by the elders are as much about fire management as they are about passing on valuable ecological and cultural knowledge to younger generations,” says the Central Land Council director, David Ross. |
| It also allows people to visit parts of their country they often couldn’t otherwise reach, explains the Ngaanyatjarra council anthropologist Bryony Nicholson. | It also allows people to visit parts of their country they often couldn’t otherwise reach, explains the Ngaanyatjarra council anthropologist Bryony Nicholson. |
| “It is because the cultural focus has been supported, from the planning stage to the burning itself, that the Ngaanyatjarra rangers are so confident using the aerial incendiary machine,” she says. | “It is because the cultural focus has been supported, from the planning stage to the burning itself, that the Ngaanyatjarra rangers are so confident using the aerial incendiary machine,” she says. |
| “You don’t have to feel nervous about putting fire in the landscape when you have the level of knowledge held by these senior people underpinning operations. Without them, it’s a different story. | “You don’t have to feel nervous about putting fire in the landscape when you have the level of knowledge held by these senior people underpinning operations. Without them, it’s a different story. |
| “The Ngaanyatjarra IPA [Indigenous protected area] really supports this focus because it is what is important for people in looking after country and it delivers positive land management outcomes as well.” | “The Ngaanyatjarra IPA [Indigenous protected area] really supports this focus because it is what is important for people in looking after country and it delivers positive land management outcomes as well.” |
| Some of the sacred sites are nearby but not all are mapped, and not all those on the map are in the right place. Senior men, including the Ngaanyatjarra council director, Mark Butler, as well as Ernest Bennett and Lyle Giles, consulted maps. | Some of the sacred sites are nearby but not all are mapped, and not all those on the map are in the right place. Senior men, including the Ngaanyatjarra council director, Mark Butler, as well as Ernest Bennett and Lyle Giles, consulted maps. |
| Talykira hadn’t been visited in decades. From this camp, only Porter had been there. Some of the men, including Simon Butler, had flown over it the previous day but not landed. | Talykira hadn’t been visited in decades. From this camp, only Porter had been there. Some of the men, including Simon Butler, had flown over it the previous day but not landed. |
| “That was really wonderful,” says Butler, who lives in the remote Western Australian community of Wingellina. “We’ve been in the helicopter, having a look around countryside, and we’ve been really proud of that country.” | “That was really wonderful,” says Butler, who lives in the remote Western Australian community of Wingellina. “We’ve been in the helicopter, having a look around countryside, and we’ve been really proud of that country.” |
| On the eve of the final day they decided to visit Talykira the next morning and take the “newspaper lady” with them so they could share their story with the rest of the world. | On the eve of the final day they decided to visit Talykira the next morning and take the “newspaper lady” with them so they could share their story with the rest of the world. |
| Climbing into the helicopter, the first group – Joe Young, Jimmy Donegan, Albert Fox and Steve Mitchell – make jokes through the communications system and direct the pilot. | Climbing into the helicopter, the first group – Joe Young, Jimmy Donegan, Albert Fox and Steve Mitchell – make jokes through the communications system and direct the pilot. |
| The aircraft lands in a clearing and the four walk towards the rise, matching snippets of song to bits of land and discussing the story, becoming more excited as they go. | The aircraft lands in a clearing and the four walk towards the rise, matching snippets of song to bits of land and discussing the story, becoming more excited as they go. |
| “The turkey man stole the fire. He crossed through here,” Mitchell says, pointing. “All the way, right up to the seaside. Then they pull it out, they pull him outside and drag him away.” | “The turkey man stole the fire. He crossed through here,” Mitchell says, pointing. “All the way, right up to the seaside. Then they pull it out, they pull him outside and drag him away.” |
| Young explains the significance of the “mixed-up area”, important for many Indigenous desert people. “They’re using all this one reserve. It’s a big story, big culture.” | Young explains the significance of the “mixed-up area”, important for many Indigenous desert people. “They’re using all this one reserve. It’s a big story, big culture.” |
| He says his mother and father took him around the country as a boy but not to this place, although he knew of it. His brother taught him to honour and share it. Young in turn brought his daughters on the trip. The land may be traditionally theirs but it is for everyone to visit, he says. | He says his mother and father took him around the country as a boy but not to this place, although he knew of it. His brother taught him to honour and share it. Young in turn brought his daughters on the trip. The land may be traditionally theirs but it is for everyone to visit, he says. |
| “My fathers and my mothers have all passed away, so have the elders,” he says. “I’m glad to see this place, my Dream site. This is for everybody, not just for myself and my brothers and sisters. This land, it’s for everybody. That’s why I’m here.” | “My fathers and my mothers have all passed away, so have the elders,” he says. “I’m glad to see this place, my Dream site. This is for everybody, not just for myself and my brothers and sisters. This land, it’s for everybody. That’s why I’m here.” |
| Anthony Whiting, an anthropologist with the Central Land Council, accompanied the men on many of their site trips over the week. He says they enables traditional owners to reconnect with their land and culture. | Anthony Whiting, an anthropologist with the Central Land Council, accompanied the men on many of their site trips over the week. He says they enables traditional owners to reconnect with their land and culture. |
| “The large number of people attending spoke to the significance of the site, as did the stories of the Tjukurpa they sung and spoke about,” he says. “They felt strong on the country, visiting the sacred sites and singing the songs for that country and felt that the country and sacred sites also became strong from their visit and their performance of the songs.” | “The large number of people attending spoke to the significance of the site, as did the stories of the Tjukurpa they sung and spoke about,” he says. “They felt strong on the country, visiting the sacred sites and singing the songs for that country and felt that the country and sacred sites also became strong from their visit and their performance of the songs.” |
| Not everyone can make it out bush. Toby Farmer learns later of the group’s success while on dialysis in Alice Springs, receiving a photo from Whiting. He visited Talykira often as a child and finding the site again had been on his mind since he left for the Warburton mission to go to school. | Not everyone can make it out bush. Toby Farmer learns later of the group’s success while on dialysis in Alice Springs, receiving a photo from Whiting. He visited Talykira often as a child and finding the site again had been on his mind since he left for the Warburton mission to go to school. |
| “I was there with my family, my mother and father ... After rain we would go out,” he says. “Talykira, if you dig him up [the water] will come out quick. | “I was there with my family, my mother and father ... After rain we would go out,” he says. “Talykira, if you dig him up [the water] will come out quick. |
| “When I saw that photo, I thought, ‘Oh yeah! They found that place. Winner!’ Make me happy. It’s a really important place. Big story.” | “When I saw that photo, I thought, ‘Oh yeah! They found that place. Winner!’ Make me happy. It’s a really important place. Big story.” |
| The long-held memories of senior people reveal a mosaic of stories, Nicholson says. It begins with the most important one, the Tjukurpa. Then tales of the “early days people” are added and the experience of people such as Porter living and travelling around this country. | The long-held memories of senior people reveal a mosaic of stories, Nicholson says. It begins with the most important one, the Tjukurpa. Then tales of the “early days people” are added and the experience of people such as Porter living and travelling around this country. |
| “In 2016, add to this the stories of travelling across country in a helicopter, visiting sites for the first time and patch burning with an incendiary machine,” Nicholson says. | “In 2016, add to this the stories of travelling across country in a helicopter, visiting sites for the first time and patch burning with an incendiary machine,” Nicholson says. |
| “It’s just another story of lives and events played out on country but it’s what’s important when it comes to looking after it. Visiting country, actually being there, is to experience the real ‘telling’ of the story. It is what makes the mark or leaves the lasting impression that becomes the story for the next generation to tell.” | “It’s just another story of lives and events played out on country but it’s what’s important when it comes to looking after it. Visiting country, actually being there, is to experience the real ‘telling’ of the story. It is what makes the mark or leaves the lasting impression that becomes the story for the next generation to tell.” |
| • Helen Davidson travelled as a guest of Country Needs People | • Helen Davidson travelled as a guest of Country Needs People |