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California Today: Stunning Views on the Train to Tahoe California Today: Stunning Views on the Train to Tahoe
(about 4 hours later)
Good morning.Good morning.
Please note: California Today will pause for the Christmas holiday and be back on Tuesday.Please note: California Today will pause for the Christmas holiday and be back on Tuesday.
Californians by the droves are escaping to the winter playground of Lake Tahoe for the holiday weekend.Californians by the droves are escaping to the winter playground of Lake Tahoe for the holiday weekend.
Roughly three million people visit the resort area each year. Almost by default, many will reach for their car keys and tire chains, hoping for the best in a battle against traffic and potentially icy roads.Roughly three million people visit the resort area each year. Almost by default, many will reach for their car keys and tire chains, hoping for the best in a battle against traffic and potentially icy roads.
But there’s another way up the mountain. Amtrak’s California Zephyr operates daily from the Bay Area to Truckee, an old railway town within a short distance of a half-dozen or so Tahoe ski resorts.But there’s another way up the mountain. Amtrak’s California Zephyr operates daily from the Bay Area to Truckee, an old railway town within a short distance of a half-dozen or so Tahoe ski resorts.
According to Jim Loomis, a travel writer, the train route is among the most picturesque in North America.According to Jim Loomis, a travel writer, the train route is among the most picturesque in North America.
“It’s just my opinion, but I think a lot of people would agree with me,“ said Mr. Loomis, who wrote the guidebook, “All Aboard! The Complete North American Train Travel Guide.”“It’s just my opinion, but I think a lot of people would agree with me,“ said Mr. Loomis, who wrote the guidebook, “All Aboard! The Complete North American Train Travel Guide.”
“It’s just a spectacularly beautiful trip.”“It’s just a spectacularly beautiful trip.”
The Zephyr, which began in 1949, departs from Emeryville once daily in the morning and continues all the way to Chicago. It hugs the shores of the San Pablo and Suisun Bays, before heading across the checkerboard farmland of the Central Valley toward Sacramento.The Zephyr, which began in 1949, departs from Emeryville once daily in the morning and continues all the way to Chicago. It hugs the shores of the San Pablo and Suisun Bays, before heading across the checkerboard farmland of the Central Valley toward Sacramento.
From there, it moves into the Sierra foothills, through Auburn and the heart of Gold Rush country. Cinematic views of snowy peaks, lakes and forest unfold as it climbs to the highest point of the journey near Donner Pass (about 7,000 feet above sea level), skirting Lake Donner below.From there, it moves into the Sierra foothills, through Auburn and the heart of Gold Rush country. Cinematic views of snowy peaks, lakes and forest unfold as it climbs to the highest point of the journey near Donner Pass (about 7,000 feet above sea level), skirting Lake Donner below.
Finally, a series of descending plateaus leads to the Truckee depot.Finally, a series of descending plateaus leads to the Truckee depot.
The trip takes about five and half hours, a couple of hours longer than it would by car (depending on traffic). Seats run from $46 to $88, and a dining car sells meals, coffee and wine.The trip takes about five and half hours, a couple of hours longer than it would by car (depending on traffic). Seats run from $46 to $88, and a dining car sells meals, coffee and wine.
Anthony Albert, a San Francisco tech worker, made the trip with his girlfriend two weeks ago and splurged for one of the sleeper rooms at a cost of about $180. He shared a series of photos from the journey (below).Anthony Albert, a San Francisco tech worker, made the trip with his girlfriend two weeks ago and splurged for one of the sleeper rooms at a cost of about $180. He shared a series of photos from the journey (below).
Once in Truckee, passengers can grab one of the buses that depart hourly from the station and make stops at nearby ski slopes. Ruth Geresy, manager of the Truckee Welcome Center, said that Enterprise and Hertz also offer to meet people at the station with a rental car.Once in Truckee, passengers can grab one of the buses that depart hourly from the station and make stops at nearby ski slopes. Ruth Geresy, manager of the Truckee Welcome Center, said that Enterprise and Hertz also offer to meet people at the station with a rental car.
For Mr. Loomis, the Amtrak ride makes a Tahoe getaway as much about the journey as the destination.For Mr. Loomis, the Amtrak ride makes a Tahoe getaway as much about the journey as the destination.
“It’s the only way to go in my opinion,” he said.“It’s the only way to go in my opinion,” he said.
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• A civil rights investigation was opened into policing in Kern County and Bakersfield after a series of deadly shootings. [The Associated Press]• A civil rights investigation was opened into policing in Kern County and Bakersfield after a series of deadly shootings. [The Associated Press]
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Last week, a reader suggested that we share some of the topics that we’re pondering for future California Today newsletters.Last week, a reader suggested that we share some of the topics that we’re pondering for future California Today newsletters.
A few that piqued our interest:A few that piqued our interest:
• A recent report in Science magazine said researchers found that the biggest refineries around Los Angeles are pumping out vastly larger quantities of pollution than is being officially reported. What do city and environmental leaders know about this? What do the refinery operators have to say?• A recent report in Science magazine said researchers found that the biggest refineries around Los Angeles are pumping out vastly larger quantities of pollution than is being officially reported. What do city and environmental leaders know about this? What do the refinery operators have to say?
• Central Valley farmers are up in arms over the so-called Bay-Delta plan, which could reduce their use of irrigation water. Environmentalists say it’s needed to revive fish and wildlife by leaving more water in rivers. What would be the toll on local economies?• Central Valley farmers are up in arms over the so-called Bay-Delta plan, which could reduce their use of irrigation water. Environmentalists say it’s needed to revive fish and wildlife by leaving more water in rivers. What would be the toll on local economies?
• News reports say a $330 million tax incentive program has led more than half a dozen television shows to relocate production to California. The industry promotes the giveaways as job creators. Critics say taxpayers are getting a raw deal. Are Californians getting their money’s worth? And how do the incentives compare with other states and industries?• News reports say a $330 million tax incentive program has led more than half a dozen television shows to relocate production to California. The industry promotes the giveaways as job creators. Critics say taxpayers are getting a raw deal. Are Californians getting their money’s worth? And how do the incentives compare with other states and industries?
Tell us any other ideas, suggestions and tips: CAtoday@nytimes.com.Tell us any other ideas, suggestions and tips: CAtoday@nytimes.com.
California Today goes live at 6 a.m. Pacific time weekdays.California Today goes live at 6 a.m. Pacific time weekdays.
The California Today columnist, Mike McPhate, is a third-generation Californian — born outside Sacramento and raised in San Juan Capistrano. He lives in Davis. Follow him on Twitter.The California Today columnist, Mike McPhate, is a third-generation Californian — born outside Sacramento and raised in San Juan Capistrano. He lives in Davis. Follow him on Twitter.
California Today is edited by Julie Bloom, who grew up in Los Angeles and attended U.C. Berkeley.California Today is edited by Julie Bloom, who grew up in Los Angeles and attended U.C. Berkeley.