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| Appliance of DNA science can shine a light on forced labour in the cotton fields Appliance of DNA science can shine a light on forced labour in the cotton fields | |
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| How do you know if a T-shirt you are about to buy is free of the taint of forced labour? Scientists say they will soon have the answer, thanks to DNA technology aimed at tracing fibres from a shirt all the way back to the originnal plant. | How do you know if a T-shirt you are about to buy is free of the taint of forced labour? Scientists say they will soon have the answer, thanks to DNA technology aimed at tracing fibres from a shirt all the way back to the originnal plant. |
| DNA Applied Science, a New York-based company that uses DNA tagging to prevent counterfeiting and theft of products including cash, weapons and pharmaceuticals, began researching cotton after it emerged that many luxury brands, not least products labelled 100% Egyptian cotton, were fake. | DNA Applied Science, a New York-based company that uses DNA tagging to prevent counterfeiting and theft of products including cash, weapons and pharmaceuticals, began researching cotton after it emerged that many luxury brands, not least products labelled 100% Egyptian cotton, were fake. |
| James Hayward, the chief executive of DNA Applied Science, says: “We became interested in cotton about 10 years ago, when we heard that many of the high quality cotton sold for a premium was not what it claimed to be.” | James Hayward, the chief executive of DNA Applied Science, says: “We became interested in cotton about 10 years ago, when we heard that many of the high quality cotton sold for a premium was not what it claimed to be.” |
| His work, which enabled him to distinguish between different types of cotton fibres, led to a realisation that DNA technology could also be applied to the finished product, to determine where the cotton in a shirt comes from. | His work, which enabled him to distinguish between different types of cotton fibres, led to a realisation that DNA technology could also be applied to the finished product, to determine where the cotton in a shirt comes from. |
| Now, amid growing concern over forced labour in the global cotton industry, Hayward is working with the US Department of Agriculture on developing a way of identifying different species of cotton based on country of origin. | Now, amid growing concern over forced labour in the global cotton industry, Hayward is working with the US Department of Agriculture on developing a way of identifying different species of cotton based on country of origin. |
| Every cotton plant has different DNA, he says, making it possible to discriminate between higher quality cotton – like Egyptian or the US equivalent, Pima cotton – and cheaper, lower quality brands. | Every cotton plant has different DNA, he says, making it possible to discriminate between higher quality cotton – like Egyptian or the US equivalent, Pima cotton – and cheaper, lower quality brands. |
| “The first thing we did was to discriminate between Pima cotton and upland cotton,” says Hayward. “We proved back in 2009 that up to 80% of the cotton sold as Pima is not. We thought the same was true for Egyptian cotton.” | “The first thing we did was to discriminate between Pima cotton and upland cotton,” says Hayward. “We proved back in 2009 that up to 80% of the cotton sold as Pima is not. We thought the same was true for Egyptian cotton.” |
| Hayward found that cotton, which is grown in more than 100 countries, has “one of the most complex supply chains” he has ever come across, often involving remote locations. This complexity makes it easier for unscrupulous producers to substitute cheaper cotton in bales. Another concern is that the substituted cotton could come from fields in which forced labour is used. | Hayward found that cotton, which is grown in more than 100 countries, has “one of the most complex supply chains” he has ever come across, often involving remote locations. This complexity makes it easier for unscrupulous producers to substitute cheaper cotton in bales. Another concern is that the substituted cotton could come from fields in which forced labour is used. |
| This year, US retailer Target was forced to pull 750,000 sheets and pillowcases from its stores after it discovered they had been falsely labelled as Egyptian and were made with inferior cotton. The retailer cut its ties with Welspun India, one of the world’s biggest textile manufacturers, following an internal investigation that, it said, confirmed Welspun had substituted inferior cotton in products. There was no suggestion that Welspun used cotton picked with the aid of forced labour. | This year, US retailer Target was forced to pull 750,000 sheets and pillowcases from its stores after it discovered they had been falsely labelled as Egyptian and were made with inferior cotton. The retailer cut its ties with Welspun India, one of the world’s biggest textile manufacturers, following an internal investigation that, it said, confirmed Welspun had substituted inferior cotton in products. There was no suggestion that Welspun used cotton picked with the aid of forced labour. |
| “It was a marketing fiasco”, but one that was sadly predictable, says Hayward. | “It was a marketing fiasco”, but one that was sadly predictable, says Hayward. |
| To prevent counterfeiting or mislabelling, Applied Science DNA is working on two different types of DNA. The first uses an engineered botanical DNA to tag the fibre before it is baled to track it from a particular source. | To prevent counterfeiting or mislabelling, Applied Science DNA is working on two different types of DNA. The first uses an engineered botanical DNA to tag the fibre before it is baled to track it from a particular source. |
| Hayward’s team have produced a botanical DNA tag called SigNature T, which is like a “molecular barcode” for textiles and clothing. This tag is applied in a spray to the fibre at the point where the seeds are removed by a cotton gin before it is baled up. | Hayward’s team have produced a botanical DNA tag called SigNature T, which is like a “molecular barcode” for textiles and clothing. This tag is applied in a spray to the fibre at the point where the seeds are removed by a cotton gin before it is baled up. |
| “We DNA tag at the cotton gin,” says Hayward. “We are tagging hundreds of millions of pounds of cotton.” | “We DNA tag at the cotton gin,” says Hayward. “We are tagging hundreds of millions of pounds of cotton.” |
| After the cotton is tagged, it can be tested along the supply chain, to ensure that less expensive cotton is not being substituted or added. | After the cotton is tagged, it can be tested along the supply chain, to ensure that less expensive cotton is not being substituted or added. |
| “We go to the locations and verify whether they are 100% cotton every step of the way,” says Hayward, “It keeps the retailers from being cheated.” | “We go to the locations and verify whether they are 100% cotton every step of the way,” says Hayward, “It keeps the retailers from being cheated.” |
| The second, most difficult task for Hayward is to identify the natural DNA of each species of cotton. This could eventually enable consumers and retailers to know if any fibres have come from countries that are using forced labour to harvest cotton. | The second, most difficult task for Hayward is to identify the natural DNA of each species of cotton. This could eventually enable consumers and retailers to know if any fibres have come from countries that are using forced labour to harvest cotton. |
| According to Hayward, 13 countries are known to use forced labour in cotton production, the most notorious being Uzbekistan, the fifth largest global producer. | According to Hayward, 13 countries are known to use forced labour in cotton production, the most notorious being Uzbekistan, the fifth largest global producer. |
| “A retailer can have unwittingly included cotton that has been harvested with child or adult slaves,” he says. | “A retailer can have unwittingly included cotton that has been harvested with child or adult slaves,” he says. |
| Now Hayward hopes his work with the US Department of Agriculture will bring him closer to being able to identify the type of cotton in finished goods. | Now Hayward hopes his work with the US Department of Agriculture will bring him closer to being able to identify the type of cotton in finished goods. |
| They are already in a position to discern differences between Uzbek cotton and some US varieties, he says. And while the research that could identify the source of cotton from the finished product is not yet ready, it is only a matter of time. | They are already in a position to discern differences between Uzbek cotton and some US varieties, he says. And while the research that could identify the source of cotton from the finished product is not yet ready, it is only a matter of time. |
| Asked if he will be able to test whether a T-shirt was made with cotton picked by forced labour, Hayward says: “We will soon be able to check the finished product. We are working our way to the stage of being able to identify the cotton from finished goods.” | Asked if he will be able to test whether a T-shirt was made with cotton picked by forced labour, Hayward says: “We will soon be able to check the finished product. We are working our way to the stage of being able to identify the cotton from finished goods.” |