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| Marques’Almeida feeling good as label channels spirit of Nina Simone | |
| (35 minutes later) | |
| “An artist’s duty, as far as I am concerned, is to reflect the times,” Nina Simone once said. | |
| Marques’Almeida, the London fashion week duo worn by Rihanna and much-liked by the Instagram generation, used Simone as a muse and a soundtrack, and took her words to heart. | |
| The inspiration for their Tuesday afternoon show was diversity, with the women modelling their clothes – some professional, others friends of the brand – a representation of the mix that could be seen on the street outside the east London venue. | The inspiration for their Tuesday afternoon show was diversity, with the women modelling their clothes – some professional, others friends of the brand – a representation of the mix that could be seen on the street outside the east London venue. |
| This was a show that didn’t fall in line with the trends seen at the rest of London fashion week – and felt all the more interesting for it. The collection began with black and white-striped suiting that had a bit of a Tim Burton’s Beetlejuice vibe. | This was a show that didn’t fall in line with the trends seen at the rest of London fashion week – and felt all the more interesting for it. The collection began with black and white-striped suiting that had a bit of a Tim Burton’s Beetlejuice vibe. |
| The references widened to the 1980s – with power jackets, floor-length overcoats and ra-ra skirts, and XL polka dots and extreme platforms like the ones worn by performance artist Leigh Bowery. Statement earrings, the kind Simone was so fond of, were worn as a homage. It felt vibrant, fun, esoteric, but also desirable – certainly for the fan base of millennials that make up the brand’s customers. | The references widened to the 1980s – with power jackets, floor-length overcoats and ra-ra skirts, and XL polka dots and extreme platforms like the ones worn by performance artist Leigh Bowery. Statement earrings, the kind Simone was so fond of, were worn as a homage. It felt vibrant, fun, esoteric, but also desirable – certainly for the fan base of millennials that make up the brand’s customers. |
| Marques’Almeida was founded in 2011 by Central Saint Martins graduates Marta Marques and Paolo Almeida and has since become the go-to brand for the kind of cool, extrovert style that plays out so well on social media. Frayed denim, oversized jackets and maxi shirt dresses – often in bright colours – are all part of their look. | Marques’Almeida was founded in 2011 by Central Saint Martins graduates Marta Marques and Paolo Almeida and has since become the go-to brand for the kind of cool, extrovert style that plays out so well on social media. Frayed denim, oversized jackets and maxi shirt dresses – often in bright colours – are all part of their look. |
| New versions of these tropes were all present and correct here: shearling coats with a metallic finish, asymmetric striped shirts and denim suits with frayed edges. New additions to this school of photogenic dressing came in bi-coloured pieces – a jacket with one half black and the other white, or trousers with one black leg and one white. A nice touch came for the designers’ finale – Marques appeared in a black sweatshirt, Almeida in a white one. | New versions of these tropes were all present and correct here: shearling coats with a metallic finish, asymmetric striped shirts and denim suits with frayed edges. New additions to this school of photogenic dressing came in bi-coloured pieces – a jacket with one half black and the other white, or trousers with one black leg and one white. A nice touch came for the designers’ finale – Marques appeared in a black sweatshirt, Almeida in a white one. |
| Backstage, the designers elaborated on their inspirations – which, as well as Simone, included the photographs of Malian photographer Malick Sidibe and the paintings of Russian artist Kazimir Malevich. These were seen through the eyes of the young women who regularly model in their shows – and, to go back to Simone, the times we live in. | Backstage, the designers elaborated on their inspirations – which, as well as Simone, included the photographs of Malian photographer Malick Sidibe and the paintings of Russian artist Kazimir Malevich. These were seen through the eyes of the young women who regularly model in their shows – and, to go back to Simone, the times we live in. |
| “If there was ever a time to talk about diversity, it’s now,” said Marques. “All our girls are different and we wanted to celebrate that.” The show notes underlined this – quotes from the models about empowerment shared page space with those from Simone and Sidibe. | “If there was ever a time to talk about diversity, it’s now,” said Marques. “All our girls are different and we wanted to celebrate that.” The show notes underlined this – quotes from the models about empowerment shared page space with those from Simone and Sidibe. |
| Marques’Almeida is a brand that manages to be on the radar of Rihanna, LVMH and real-life consumers all at the same time. The musician regularly wears the duo’s clothes, and the French conglomerate awarded them around £250,000 in 2015 as the winners of their Prize for Young Fashion Designers. | Marques’Almeida is a brand that manages to be on the radar of Rihanna, LVMH and real-life consumers all at the same time. The musician regularly wears the duo’s clothes, and the French conglomerate awarded them around £250,000 in 2015 as the winners of their Prize for Young Fashion Designers. |
| The relatively reasonable price tags – £220 for a pair of jeans, £170 for a top – mean they are within the reach of young women who lap up 90s references and selfie-friendly design signatures now familiar to those in the know. | The relatively reasonable price tags – £220 for a pair of jeans, £170 for a top – mean they are within the reach of young women who lap up 90s references and selfie-friendly design signatures now familiar to those in the know. |
| Their macro-padded jacket for autumn/winter 2016 has become almost meme-worthy. This collection refreshes that feed with new designs. Expect to see those half-black, half-white trousers, as worn by a digital influencer, on Instagram, in six months’ time. | Their macro-padded jacket for autumn/winter 2016 has become almost meme-worthy. This collection refreshes that feed with new designs. Expect to see those half-black, half-white trousers, as worn by a digital influencer, on Instagram, in six months’ time. |
| Tuesday was the final day of London fashion week. Shows from Christopher Kane, Burberry, Preen and Ashley Williams were highlights. The focus now shifts to Milan where Gucci shows its collection on Wednesday afternoon. | Tuesday was the final day of London fashion week. Shows from Christopher Kane, Burberry, Preen and Ashley Williams were highlights. The focus now shifts to Milan where Gucci shows its collection on Wednesday afternoon. |