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Is this what you call junk food? Is this what you call junk food?
(20 minutes later)
Hamburgers are seen as the archetypal 'junk food' By Brendan O'Neill Junk food is rarely out of the news these days, but the tag seems to be applied very selectively. So do we really know what is good and bad for us?Hamburgers are seen as the archetypal 'junk food' By Brendan O'Neill Junk food is rarely out of the news these days, but the tag seems to be applied very selectively. So do we really know what is good and bad for us?
You can't open a newspaper or switch on the box without hearing about the latest initiative to wean young people in particular off "junk food" and on to healthier foodstuffs.You can't open a newspaper or switch on the box without hearing about the latest initiative to wean young people in particular off "junk food" and on to healthier foodstuffs.
Last week, the Office for Communications (Ofcom) unveiled plans to ban ads for junk food during TV programmes aimed at kids.Last week, the Office for Communications (Ofcom) unveiled plans to ban ads for junk food during TV programmes aimed at kids.
That followed hot on the heels of the government's clampdown in September on the sale of chocolate, crisps, the fizzy stuff (cola, lemonade, etc) and "low-quality meat" in schools across the nation.That followed hot on the heels of the government's clampdown in September on the sale of chocolate, crisps, the fizzy stuff (cola, lemonade, etc) and "low-quality meat" in schools across the nation.
Obesity to a growing problemAlan Johnson, the secretary of state for education, announced that all schools would have to stop preparing and selling meals consisting of junk food. Obesity to a growing problemAlan Johnson, the Secretary of State for Education, announced that all schools would have to stop preparing and selling meals consisting of junk food.
But what exactly is junk food? It's widely believed that the phrase was coined by Michael Jacobson, director of the American Center for Science in the Public Interest, in 1972.But what exactly is junk food? It's widely believed that the phrase was coined by Michael Jacobson, director of the American Center for Science in the Public Interest, in 1972.
For most people, the phrase conjures up images of hamburgers, pizzas, chips and sweets.For most people, the phrase conjures up images of hamburgers, pizzas, chips and sweets.
For the Food Standards Agency - from which both the government and Ofcom got their definition of junk food - it is any food high in fat, salt or sugar.For the Food Standards Agency - from which both the government and Ofcom got their definition of junk food - it is any food high in fat, salt or sugar.
VibeVibe
So why are some fatty foods defined as "junk", but others are not? For example, government ministers and celebrity chefs look down their noses at French fries (which in McDonald's contain around 5g of fat), and at the same time think nothing of tucking into a dish like duck a la orange (which can contain 15 to 20g of fat in a single serving). So why are some fatty foods defined as "junk", but others are not? For example, government ministers and celebrity chefs look down their noses at French fries (which in McDonald's contain about 5g of fat), and at the same time think nothing of tucking into a dish like duck a la orange (which can contain 15 to 20g of fat in a single serving).
And why are some food outlets, such as McDonald's or Domino's Pizza, labelled as "junk", while others that serve similar dishes, like posh burger bars or Pizza Express, are seen as being acceptable and trendy, and possibly even healthy?And why are some food outlets, such as McDonald's or Domino's Pizza, labelled as "junk", while others that serve similar dishes, like posh burger bars or Pizza Express, are seen as being acceptable and trendy, and possibly even healthy?
We compared the nutritional content of dishes served in various high street restaurant chains and discovered that the label "junk food" is used selectively indeed.We compared the nutritional content of dishes served in various high street restaurant chains and discovered that the label "junk food" is used selectively indeed.
CHICKENCHICKEN
Two of the most popular chicken restaurants are Nando's and KFC. Yet where Nando's is pitched more at the dining out market, with its wooden furniture and Portuguese vibe, KFC is a purveyor of fast food - read "junk".Two of the most popular chicken restaurants are Nando's and KFC. Yet where Nando's is pitched more at the dining out market, with its wooden furniture and Portuguese vibe, KFC is a purveyor of fast food - read "junk".
In truth, a meal in Nando's often contains more calories and more fat than a meal in KFC.In truth, a meal in Nando's often contains more calories and more fat than a meal in KFC.
A spokesperson for Nando's says they are currently working on a new nutritional information sheet, which will be available next year. Using the currently available nutrition stats for Nando's, it seems their food is not necessarily any healthier than KFC's.A spokesperson for Nando's says they are currently working on a new nutritional information sheet, which will be available next year. Using the currently available nutrition stats for Nando's, it seems their food is not necessarily any healthier than KFC's.
KFC's pledged to stop using trans fatsIn Nando's, a chicken burger, chips and a cola comes in at about 1,029 calories and contains 36.9g of fat. In KFC, the same meal contains 801 calories and 27.4g of fat.KFC's pledged to stop using trans fatsIn Nando's, a chicken burger, chips and a cola comes in at about 1,029 calories and contains 36.9g of fat. In KFC, the same meal contains 801 calories and 27.4g of fat.
A chicken burger meal in Nando's has 135.4g of carbohydrates, while in KFC it has 105.8g of carbs.A chicken burger meal in Nando's has 135.4g of carbohydrates, while in KFC it has 105.8g of carbs.
Because it is flame-grilled rather than fried, Nando's chicken contains less fat than KFC chicken.Because it is flame-grilled rather than fried, Nando's chicken contains less fat than KFC chicken.
So in the above meals, the chicken burger in Nando's has 14.4g of fat while the chicken burger in KFC has 15.8g of fat. But Nando's serves larger portions of fattier chips: in the above meals, Nando's "old-style chips" contain 22.5g of fat, while KFC's French fries contain 11.6g of fat.So in the above meals, the chicken burger in Nando's has 14.4g of fat while the chicken burger in KFC has 15.8g of fat. But Nando's serves larger portions of fattier chips: in the above meals, Nando's "old-style chips" contain 22.5g of fat, while KFC's French fries contain 11.6g of fat.
Could it be that Nando's has escaped the "junk" tag because it is a preferred hangout of respectable young families on shopping trips, while KFC is seen as being urban and garish?Could it be that Nando's has escaped the "junk" tag because it is a preferred hangout of respectable young families on shopping trips, while KFC is seen as being urban and garish?
PIZZAPIZZA
Pizzas are also viewed differently, depending on where you eat them. Domino's Pizza, for example, is considered by many to be "junk food", while Pizza Express, beloved of the middle classes, is seen as healthy Italian grub.Pizzas are also viewed differently, depending on where you eat them. Domino's Pizza, for example, is considered by many to be "junk food", while Pizza Express, beloved of the middle classes, is seen as healthy Italian grub.
Healthy Italian grub?So the new rules announced by Ofcom last week will mean that Domino's Pizza will have to stop sponsoring The Simpsons on Sky One.Healthy Italian grub?So the new rules announced by Ofcom last week will mean that Domino's Pizza will have to stop sponsoring The Simpsons on Sky One.
Again, there is little real difference in terms of nutritional content between an outlet like Domino's and the fashionable minimalist restaurants of Pizza Express.Again, there is little real difference in terms of nutritional content between an outlet like Domino's and the fashionable minimalist restaurants of Pizza Express.
For example, half an American Hot pizza in Pizza Express contains about 517 calories, while half a medium American Hot pizza in Domino's has 507 calories.For example, half an American Hot pizza in Pizza Express contains about 517 calories, while half a medium American Hot pizza in Domino's has 507 calories.
The Domino's pizza contains slightly more fat than the Pizza Express pizza, but fewer carbohydrates.The Domino's pizza contains slightly more fat than the Pizza Express pizza, but fewer carbohydrates.
Half an American Hot in Domino's has about 17.7g of fat and 59.4g of carbs, while half an American Hot in Pizza Express has 13.2g of fat and 68.6g of carbs.Half an American Hot in Domino's has about 17.7g of fat and 59.4g of carbs, while half an American Hot in Pizza Express has 13.2g of fat and 68.6g of carbs.
HAMBURGERSHAMBURGERS
McDonald's, the most famous sellers of hamburgers, is seen by some as the archetypal "junk food" outlet. Yet other, trendier burger bars often serve fattier dishes.McDonald's, the most famous sellers of hamburgers, is seen by some as the archetypal "junk food" outlet. Yet other, trendier burger bars often serve fattier dishes.
McDonald's has become more open about its nutritional content. Its leaflet, Our Food, Nutrition and You, was on prominent display in the two restaurants I visited.McDonald's has become more open about its nutritional content. Its leaflet, Our Food, Nutrition and You, was on prominent display in the two restaurants I visited.
McDonald's have salads nowBy contrast, the manager of The Ultimate Burger in London - one of a clutch of upmarket burger restaurants to open in recent years - was unable to provide nutritional info. Various gastropubs also had no information about their burgers and fries.McDonald's have salads nowBy contrast, the manager of The Ultimate Burger in London - one of a clutch of upmarket burger restaurants to open in recent years - was unable to provide nutritional info. Various gastropubs also had no information about their burgers and fries.
Ed's Easy Diner, however, a 50s-style outlet with branches around the capital, was able to provide info on its burgers and shakes - and they contain more fat than McDonald's fare.Ed's Easy Diner, however, a 50s-style outlet with branches around the capital, was able to provide info on its burgers and shakes - and they contain more fat than McDonald's fare.
Ed's classic hamburger and strawberry milkshake contain 1,104 calories and about 31.8g of fat. In McDonald's, a classic hamburger and strawberry milkshake contain 640 calories and 18g of fat.Ed's classic hamburger and strawberry milkshake contain 1,104 calories and about 31.8g of fat. In McDonald's, a classic hamburger and strawberry milkshake contain 640 calories and 18g of fat.
Aesthetic appealAesthetic appeal
Why does the "junk food" tag seem to be applied selectively, and often to food outlets in urban and suburban areas but not to those in leafier parts? Is there some snobbery at play here?Why does the "junk food" tag seem to be applied selectively, and often to food outlets in urban and suburban areas but not to those in leafier parts? Is there some snobbery at play here?
According to Peter Marsh, of the Social Issues Research Centre in Oxford, which studies food and obesity issues, the term "junk" has become "simply a matter of aesthetics", a way of disapproving of certain foods.According to Peter Marsh, of the Social Issues Research Centre in Oxford, which studies food and obesity issues, the term "junk" has become "simply a matter of aesthetics", a way of disapproving of certain foods.
"Some may argue that it is a matter of content levels of fat, sugar and salt," he says. "But in that case, foie gras, Iles Flotants, most pates and so on are also junk.""Some may argue that it is a matter of content levels of fat, sugar and salt," he says. "But in that case, foie gras, Iles Flotants, most pates and so on are also junk."
Johan Koeslag, a professor of medical physiology in South Africa, says junk food has become an "empty" phrase.Johan Koeslag, a professor of medical physiology in South Africa, says junk food has become an "empty" phrase.
He points out that French fries are seen as "junk food", but roast potatoes are not. Bread is a basic foodstuff, but biscuits are "junk". The sugar in cake is detrimental to health, but the sugar in honey and grapes is not.He points out that French fries are seen as "junk food", but roast potatoes are not. Bread is a basic foodstuff, but biscuits are "junk". The sugar in cake is detrimental to health, but the sugar in honey and grapes is not.
"The adjective 'junk' [is] unfortunate, if not outright misleading," he says."The adjective 'junk' [is] unfortunate, if not outright misleading," he says.
Perhaps it is time we junked the "junk food" tag, and thought up better ways to define food.Perhaps it is time we junked the "junk food" tag, and thought up better ways to define food.


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