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Raqqa: a journey into the destroyed heart of the Islamic State capital Raqqa: a journey into the destroyed heart of the Islamic State capital
(4 months later)
After months of brutal fighting, the battle to retake Raqqa, the self-declared capital of the Islamic State caliphate, is almost over. Scroll down to follow photographer Achilleas Zavallis and reporter Martin Chulov as they journey from the Iraqi border to the wasteland of the frontline of the ancient Syrian city where the few remaining Isis fighters are making their last stand.After months of brutal fighting, the battle to retake Raqqa, the self-declared capital of the Islamic State caliphate, is almost over. Scroll down to follow photographer Achilleas Zavallis and reporter Martin Chulov as they journey from the Iraqi border to the wasteland of the frontline of the ancient Syrian city where the few remaining Isis fighters are making their last stand.
Crossing the Syrian borderCrossing the Syrian border
Bobbing rhythmically over barren hills, the donkey heads of Rojava’s oil trade draw crude from the ground, sending it down thin pipes to a refinery nearby. These basic black pumps are the linchpin of the region’s economy, and are central to what happens after Isis is finally pushed from Raqqa and its surrounds. Oil could galvanise Kurdish claims on autonomy. The subterranean riches here are also tempting for forces fighting to the south, Russian, Iranian, American and Syrian.Bobbing rhythmically over barren hills, the donkey heads of Rojava’s oil trade draw crude from the ground, sending it down thin pipes to a refinery nearby. These basic black pumps are the linchpin of the region’s economy, and are central to what happens after Isis is finally pushed from Raqqa and its surrounds. Oil could galvanise Kurdish claims on autonomy. The subterranean riches here are also tempting for forces fighting to the south, Russian, Iranian, American and Syrian.
Driving between Kobani and Ain IssaDriving between Kobani and Ain Issa
Syria’s newest refugees arrive most days here, on a dusty outpost near a teeming refugee camp. They tumble exhausted from clapped out lorries and cars that have barely made the journey. Their faces swathed in scarves to avoid the dust and flies, they settle into makeshift tents, and wait.Syria’s newest refugees arrive most days here, on a dusty outpost near a teeming refugee camp. They tumble exhausted from clapped out lorries and cars that have barely made the journey. Their faces swathed in scarves to avoid the dust and flies, they settle into makeshift tents, and wait.
Many come from Raqqa. Others from towns and villages close to Deir ez-Zor, where Isis is fighting yet another last stand. Their fate, like that of the millions of others who have fled five years of war and insurgency, is uncertain.Many come from Raqqa. Others from towns and villages close to Deir ez-Zor, where Isis is fighting yet another last stand. Their fate, like that of the millions of others who have fled five years of war and insurgency, is uncertain.
Visiting the Ain Issa IDP campVisiting the Ain Issa IDP camp
Refugees from Syria and Iraq are crammed into this camp, one of the biggest in the Raqqa hinterland. Some had been displaced more than three times before arriving here. “Everywhere we go, the airstrikes follow,” said Abu Jassem, originally from Falluja in Iraq.Refugees from Syria and Iraq are crammed into this camp, one of the biggest in the Raqqa hinterland. Some had been displaced more than three times before arriving here. “Everywhere we go, the airstrikes follow,” said Abu Jassem, originally from Falluja in Iraq.
In one corner are the widows and orphans of foreign fighters. Blond and red-headed children frolic in a small courtyard. Their mothers hide behind curtains, many wearing chadors. They are stigmatised by their captors and by other refugees.In one corner are the widows and orphans of foreign fighters. Blond and red-headed children frolic in a small courtyard. Their mothers hide behind curtains, many wearing chadors. They are stigmatised by their captors and by other refugees.
East Raqqa YPG baseEast Raqqa YPG base
In this half-finished concrete building, fighters in the war with Isis rest and recuperate, before heading to the frontline a mile away. Their dead and wounded are brought here. They sleep, eat and plan the war in the room upstairs, from where they can see smoke rising from the battle.In this half-finished concrete building, fighters in the war with Isis rest and recuperate, before heading to the frontline a mile away. Their dead and wounded are brought here. They sleep, eat and plan the war in the room upstairs, from where they can see smoke rising from the battle.
Here, Hazam, a Kurd from Kobani, who lost a hand in the battle for his home town, oversees a fighting force of mostly Arab youths from Raqqa. Hazam is supervised by a Kurd from the Turkish mountains.Here, Hazam, a Kurd from Kobani, who lost a hand in the battle for his home town, oversees a fighting force of mostly Arab youths from Raqqa. Hazam is supervised by a Kurd from the Turkish mountains.
Fighting nearbyFighting nearby
Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF) fighters help a shellshocked comrade to his feet. The fighter and his team were hit by an RPG round, fired by Isis militants, while trying to assist cut-off members of their unit on the east Raqqa front line.Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF) fighters help a shellshocked comrade to his feet. The fighter and his team were hit by an RPG round, fired by Isis militants, while trying to assist cut-off members of their unit on the east Raqqa front line.
Approaching the frontlineApproaching the frontline
Less than half a mile from the Raqqa clock tower, anti-Isis fighters are dug into the ruins of several buildings. Some use holes in a wall to scope for extremists further on.Less than half a mile from the Raqqa clock tower, anti-Isis fighters are dug into the ruins of several buildings. Some use holes in a wall to scope for extremists further on.
Their foes, like them, move through holes they have smashed through walls. The enemy is often less than two buildings away, hidden in the remnants of a ruined city that was once the heart of their so-called caliphate, but volunteers fighting with the Kurds say they have never seen a live Isis member.Their foes, like them, move through holes they have smashed through walls. The enemy is often less than two buildings away, hidden in the remnants of a ruined city that was once the heart of their so-called caliphate, but volunteers fighting with the Kurds say they have never seen a live Isis member.
Burnt-out cars are used as a temporary road blockade near a SDF base as a precautionary measure against Isis suicide car bombs.Burnt-out cars are used as a temporary road blockade near a SDF base as a precautionary measure against Isis suicide car bombs.
Near Clock Tower SquareNear Clock Tower Square
Beyond the jagged wasteland there is a prize that all those fighting Isis are aiming for: a clock tower that stands on a small roundabout. Public executions were routinely performed there, and some of the group’s most infamous members lived nearby.Beyond the jagged wasteland there is a prize that all those fighting Isis are aiming for: a clock tower that stands on a small roundabout. Public executions were routinely performed there, and some of the group’s most infamous members lived nearby.
Islamic State
Middle East and North Africa
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