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Country diary: a storm here is a spectator​​ sport of the utmost drama Country diary: a storm here is a spectator​​ sport of the utmost drama
(2 months later)
Castlemartin, Pembrokeshire To see how many features I once climbed have been battered away by wave and wind is a salutary lesson in human ambition
Jim Perrin
Sat 4 Nov 2017 05.30 GMT
Last modified on Mon 27 Nov 2017 14.20 GMT
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Meadowsweet still flowered along lanes through an obscenity of tank ranges; grasses riffled and glistened in the verges; far offshore, Lundy dipped in and out of view. Nowhere’s better in stormy weather than south Pembrokeshire’s Castlemartin peninsula. Here the elemental interplay of land and sea is slow-motion spectator sport of the utmost drama.Meadowsweet still flowered along lanes through an obscenity of tank ranges; grasses riffled and glistened in the verges; far offshore, Lundy dipped in and out of view. Nowhere’s better in stormy weather than south Pembrokeshire’s Castlemartin peninsula. Here the elemental interplay of land and sea is slow-motion spectator sport of the utmost drama.
I was there when Storm Ophelia was at her raging height, to watch sculpting forces of weather at work on massively bedded, malleable limestone. In my decades as a rock climber, pioneering routes on this coast obsessed me. To look east from the Green Bridge of Wales and see how many of the features I had climbed have been battered away by wave and wind is a salutary lesson in human ambition.I was there when Storm Ophelia was at her raging height, to watch sculpting forces of weather at work on massively bedded, malleable limestone. In my decades as a rock climber, pioneering routes on this coast obsessed me. To look east from the Green Bridge of Wales and see how many of the features I had climbed have been battered away by wave and wind is a salutary lesson in human ambition.
This coastline changes every year. Hundreds of tonnes fell away from the Green Bridge recently; more will surely go this winter, until only the stub of a stack remains. From the larger Elegug Stacks nearby, a huge buttress has collapsed; but the cairn on top, built on a wild weekend 47 years ago by the late Peter Biven and myself, is visible against the light, evoking memories of youth’s lithe strength expending itself in struggling up a vile amalgam of fissile rock, guano and sea-cabbages to attain that summit.This coastline changes every year. Hundreds of tonnes fell away from the Green Bridge recently; more will surely go this winter, until only the stub of a stack remains. From the larger Elegug Stacks nearby, a huge buttress has collapsed; but the cairn on top, built on a wild weekend 47 years ago by the late Peter Biven and myself, is visible against the light, evoking memories of youth’s lithe strength expending itself in struggling up a vile amalgam of fissile rock, guano and sea-cabbages to attain that summit.
Rather than being depressed by the memory, my spirits are lifted by the buoyant grace of a fulmar that hangs on the wind at the cliff-edge, observing with benign eye. Sailors’ tradition held these birds to be seamen’s souls; I imagine it as the spirit of James Fisher. His 1952 New Naturalist monograph on the fulmar is a classic of 20th-century nature writing.Rather than being depressed by the memory, my spirits are lifted by the buoyant grace of a fulmar that hangs on the wind at the cliff-edge, observing with benign eye. Sailors’ tradition held these birds to be seamen’s souls; I imagine it as the spirit of James Fisher. His 1952 New Naturalist monograph on the fulmar is a classic of 20th-century nature writing.
Less stately and far noisier is a flock of choughs – small, red-legged crows whose squealing cries pierce even the gale’s thud and bluster. Chough and fulmar are on my list of favourite birds: for the air-mastery they display; for their embodiment of the essence of all wild places. The rocks may crumble and fold; we grow old; but nature gives these immortal birds as consolation for transience. What joy they bring!Less stately and far noisier is a flock of choughs – small, red-legged crows whose squealing cries pierce even the gale’s thud and bluster. Chough and fulmar are on my list of favourite birds: for the air-mastery they display; for their embodiment of the essence of all wild places. The rocks may crumble and fold; we grow old; but nature gives these immortal birds as consolation for transience. What joy they bring!
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