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Guardian Cities: Live from São Paulo's occupations Guardian Cities: Live from São Paulo's occupations
(35 minutes later)
It’s coming up to 6.30pm here in São Paulo, and it’s time to conclude our live coverage from the city’s occupied buildings, and day one of Guardian Cities’ São Paulo Live.
Thank you for sharing with us your thoughts and feelings about our coverage so far – we hope you agree, it’s been a great start to the week.
Of course there is plenty more to come – on water, transport, indigenous land rights, labour, culture and more from Cracolândia, among other aspects of this fascinating megalopolis. Check back in the coming days, and let us know what you think on the hashtag #GuardianSaoPaulo; emailing saopaulo.week@theguardian.com; or chatting with our journalists.
And if you happen to be with us in São Paulo, do come along to our event in the Copan on Thursday – details here.
To quote a paulistano reader: “Sao Paulo never, ever stops” – but this live blog does. Thanks for following along – até breve.
I am at the Green Corridor on 23 de Maio, covering a different type of occupation – that by greenery, of grey urban space.I am at the Green Corridor on 23 de Maio, covering a different type of occupation – that by greenery, of grey urban space.
Movimento 90 occupying the city with greenery, using money from environmental fines levied against companies #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/mxji4lvQfXMovimento 90 occupying the city with greenery, using money from environmental fines levied against companies #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/mxji4lvQfX
Movimento 90 have been covering São Paulo with plants since 2014. The project has several benefits, including reducing pollution, lowering temperatures and improving acoustics – not to mention its aesthetic appeal.Movimento 90 have been covering São Paulo with plants since 2014. The project has several benefits, including reducing pollution, lowering temperatures and improving acoustics – not to mention its aesthetic appeal.
Another one of its spaces is the Minhocão, where vertical gardens stretch up skyscrapers.Another one of its spaces is the Minhocão, where vertical gardens stretch up skyscrapers.
The project, started under the government of Haddad, finances each green occupation with fines collected for environmental breaches. The space on 23 de Maio was given the green light by Doria, who is continuing the initiative.The project, started under the government of Haddad, finances each green occupation with fines collected for environmental breaches. The space on 23 de Maio was given the green light by Doria, who is continuing the initiative.
It’s important to note that WHO recommends 12.8 sq m of green space in cities, per member of the population. São Paulo has 2.5.It’s important to note that WHO recommends 12.8 sq m of green space in cities, per member of the population. São Paulo has 2.5.
“We just want what is guaranteed to us via the constitution,” says Janice “Preta” Ferreria Silva, 32, a general coordinator at Occupation Hotel Cambridge. As the name suggests, it was once a hotel, owned by a powerful Sao Paulo family.“We just want what is guaranteed to us via the constitution,” says Janice “Preta” Ferreria Silva, 32, a general coordinator at Occupation Hotel Cambridge. As the name suggests, it was once a hotel, owned by a powerful Sao Paulo family.
It had been standing empty for ten years when housing activists occupied it in 2012. Today it is home to 120 low income families, many of them immigrants from Syria, Angola and elsewhere.It had been standing empty for ten years when housing activists occupied it in 2012. Today it is home to 120 low income families, many of them immigrants from Syria, Angola and elsewhere.
From São Paulo's Hotel Cambridge Occupation, which last year earned the right to become public housing after five years of pressuring authorities (photos Andre Lucas) #GuardianSaoPauloِ pic.twitter.com/LSMv2B1cgGFrom São Paulo's Hotel Cambridge Occupation, which last year earned the right to become public housing after five years of pressuring authorities (photos Andre Lucas) #GuardianSaoPauloِ pic.twitter.com/LSMv2B1cgG
In Brazil the right to housing is enshrined in the country’s constitution, though in practice it is rarely respected. Brazil has a housing deficit of more than six million. Occupiers can win the rights to land or property, providing the property or land is unproductive, abandoned or owes back taxes to the municipal government.In Brazil the right to housing is enshrined in the country’s constitution, though in practice it is rarely respected. Brazil has a housing deficit of more than six million. Occupiers can win the rights to land or property, providing the property or land is unproductive, abandoned or owes back taxes to the municipal government.
Last year, after five years of struggle, the occupying residents of Hotel Cambridge won the right to the property. Their fight was the subject of the 2016 documentary Era o Hotel Cambridge.Last year, after five years of struggle, the occupying residents of Hotel Cambridge won the right to the property. Their fight was the subject of the 2016 documentary Era o Hotel Cambridge.
Allan de Oliveira, 28, and his partner Cristina Ribeiro, 23, came to Mauá today to interview for a place in a bigger occupation nearby, at the Prestes Maia building. They have been sleeping rough on Marechal Deodor Square for the past month, after de Oliveira lost his job as an administrative assistant and they were evicted.Allan de Oliveira, 28, and his partner Cristina Ribeiro, 23, came to Mauá today to interview for a place in a bigger occupation nearby, at the Prestes Maia building. They have been sleeping rough on Marechal Deodor Square for the past month, after de Oliveira lost his job as an administrative assistant and they were evicted.
Allan de Oliveira, 28, and partner Cristina Ribeiro, 23, have just got a place in a São Paulo occupation after a month living on the streets. “It was horrible,” he said. “People look at you like they despise you.” pic.twitter.com/dlSaM1aNVjAllan de Oliveira, 28, and partner Cristina Ribeiro, 23, have just got a place in a São Paulo occupation after a month living on the streets. “It was horrible,” he said. “People look at you like they despise you.” pic.twitter.com/dlSaM1aNVj
“It was horrible. The rain soaks everything, your things get stolen,” de Oliviera said of being homeless. “People look at you like they despise you, as if you are garbage.” Some NGOs did help, Ribeiro added, by giving them clothes.“It was horrible. The rain soaks everything, your things get stolen,” de Oliviera said of being homeless. “People look at you like they despise you, as if you are garbage.” Some NGOs did help, Ribeiro added, by giving them clothes.
De Oliveira, who is from São Paulo, has found work as a ju-jitsu teacher in the centre. Ribeiro moved from João Pessoa in Paraíba state to become a model, and has already registered with an agency.De Oliveira, who is from São Paulo, has found work as a ju-jitsu teacher in the centre. Ribeiro moved from João Pessoa in Paraíba state to become a model, and has already registered with an agency.
“This is the centre for fashion,” she said.“This is the centre for fashion,” she said.
The São Paulo city government should give empty properties to homeless people, said Natália Almeida, 29, who lives with her husband and three children in the Mauá Occupation.The São Paulo city government should give empty properties to homeless people, said Natália Almeida, 29, who lives with her husband and three children in the Mauá Occupation.
“Many people on the streets, and many empty buildings. Give the houses to the people. That’s the least they could do.” In many cases, she added, the owners of vacant buildings don’t even pay local taxes, even as they insist on market rents to sell them.“Many people on the streets, and many empty buildings. Give the houses to the people. That’s the least they could do.” In many cases, she added, the owners of vacant buildings don’t even pay local taxes, even as they insist on market rents to sell them.
Natália Almeida, 29, who lives in the Mauá Occupation, says São Paulo City gov should give empty properties to homeless people. pic.twitter.com/L3CCznqOrhNatália Almeida, 29, who lives in the Mauá Occupation, says São Paulo City gov should give empty properties to homeless people. pic.twitter.com/L3CCznqOrh
Almeida, her daughters Kaillani, 15, and Emanuely, 2, and her son Ryan Gabriel, 9, live on the salary her husband Emanuel, 29, a driver, brings home. Before moving to Mauá nine years ago they lived in a Brazilian tenement called a curtiço, or pensão, and shared a tiny room and a bathroom with many other families.Almeida, her daughters Kaillani, 15, and Emanuely, 2, and her son Ryan Gabriel, 9, live on the salary her husband Emanuel, 29, a driver, brings home. Before moving to Mauá nine years ago they lived in a Brazilian tenement called a curtiço, or pensão, and shared a tiny room and a bathroom with many other families.
At Mauá, they pay a “contribution” of $62 a month for a one-room apartment at the bottom of the building, one of the few in the occupation with a bathroom. “I am going to stay here, if God wills,” she said.At Mauá, they pay a “contribution” of $62 a month for a one-room apartment at the bottom of the building, one of the few in the occupation with a bathroom. “I am going to stay here, if God wills,” she said.
Like many of the 1000-odd families living in Mauá, the Almeidas are Evangelical Christians. But that does not mean they plan to vote for Evangelical or conservative candidates in next year’s presidential elections.Like many of the 1000-odd families living in Mauá, the Almeidas are Evangelical Christians. But that does not mean they plan to vote for Evangelical or conservative candidates in next year’s presidential elections.
“I would vote for Lula,” she said. “In our house we are all Workers’ Party.”“I would vote for Lula,” she said. “In our house we are all Workers’ Party.”
I visited the antiga Casa da Moeda (“House of Coins”) – an old mint, as you can tell from the facade. It was occupied at the end of October in a spate of nine occupations of buildings in the city centre.I visited the antiga Casa da Moeda (“House of Coins”) – an old mint, as you can tell from the facade. It was occupied at the end of October in a spate of nine occupations of buildings in the city centre.
The other eight have since been disbanded by police operations, using gas bombs and bats.The other eight have since been disbanded by police operations, using gas bombs and bats.
20 people left occupying the antiga Casa da Moeda - “old Coin House”. They’re busy constructing tents at the weekend so more can join #guardiansaopaulo pic.twitter.com/u2uwlki7Yh20 people left occupying the antiga Casa da Moeda - “old Coin House”. They’re busy constructing tents at the weekend so more can join #guardiansaopaulo pic.twitter.com/u2uwlki7Yh
The mint is the only one that survives today, with 40 families living there.The mint is the only one that survives today, with 40 families living there.
João Batista, 33, is one resident. He was living at Avenida São João 601 when it was disbanded last month, and was briefly imprisoned as a result of the police operation.João Batista, 33, is one resident. He was living at Avenida São João 601 when it was disbanded last month, and was briefly imprisoned as a result of the police operation.
“It wasn’t us who damaged public space, it was the police when they tore down the doors to enter,” he says.“It wasn’t us who damaged public space, it was the police when they tore down the doors to enter,” he says.
João Batista, 33, was in one of 9 occupations that was taken down last month and was imprisoned for a day and night. He tells me he was done for “theft”, “forming a gang” and “damage of public patrimony”. #guardiansaopaulo pic.twitter.com/lLIeuNmqSRJoão Batista, 33, was in one of 9 occupations that was taken down last month and was imprisoned for a day and night. He tells me he was done for “theft”, “forming a gang” and “damage of public patrimony”. #guardiansaopaulo pic.twitter.com/lLIeuNmqSR
One of the pieces I’m most looking forward to reading this week is Jon Watts’ report on retiling the Copan: one of the largest and most iconic buildings in Brazil.One of the pieces I’m most looking forward to reading this week is Jon Watts’ report on retiling the Copan: one of the largest and most iconic buildings in Brazil.
Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, it is often likened to a city within a city.Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, it is often likened to a city within a city.
Ah Sampa! The view from the rooftop of the Copan, where magical things happen. pic.twitter.com/zFSTTbZqZmAh Sampa! The view from the rooftop of the Copan, where magical things happen. pic.twitter.com/zFSTTbZqZm
Hard to dispute that Copan beyond trendy. As well as being stylishly designed by Oscar Niemeyer, it has its own postcode. Not just for rich either. Truly, a city within a city in centre of São Paulo. #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/Ao5BRyGmvrHard to dispute that Copan beyond trendy. As well as being stylishly designed by Oscar Niemeyer, it has its own postcode. Not just for rich either. Truly, a city within a city in centre of São Paulo. #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/Ao5BRyGmvr
"Copan is the coolest building in Latin America" according to magician Giovanni Bright who performs a trick to prove it. #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/UXzbGAfkOL"Copan is the coolest building in Latin America" according to magician Giovanni Bright who performs a trick to prove it. #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/UXzbGAfkOL
João Bento de Lima, 60, has lived in the Mauá Occupation since it began ten years ago. The community had been braced for eviction last week, before the city government announced it was buying the building and they could stay.João Bento de Lima, 60, has lived in the Mauá Occupation since it began ten years ago. The community had been braced for eviction last week, before the city government announced it was buying the building and they could stay.
“I can tell you it was the beauty of God and the struggle of the people who work here,” he says.“I can tell you it was the beauty of God and the struggle of the people who work here,” he says.
João Bento de Lima, 60, at Mauá Occupation in São Paulo. Brazilians know very little about UK, he said. “They mostly talk about the queen, and about Brazilian soccer players (there),” he said. “But I’m sure it is wonderful.” pic.twitter.com/6ZsU8uG5HrJoão Bento de Lima, 60, at Mauá Occupation in São Paulo. Brazilians know very little about UK, he said. “They mostly talk about the queen, and about Brazilian soccer players (there),” he said. “But I’m sure it is wonderful.” pic.twitter.com/6ZsU8uG5Hr
De Lima was born in Natal in Rio Grande do Norte state in the north-east of Brazil, traditionally one of the country’s poorest regions. While working in a furniture factory there, he heard that the construction company building São Paulo’s international airport was hiring.De Lima was born in Natal in Rio Grande do Norte state in the north-east of Brazil, traditionally one of the country’s poorest regions. While working in a furniture factory there, he heard that the construction company building São Paulo’s international airport was hiring.
He moved to the city and got the job. De Lima went on to help build the São Paulo metro; today he works as a doorman. “I got used to São Paulo, and I stayed,” he says.He moved to the city and got the job. De Lima went on to help build the São Paulo metro; today he works as a doorman. “I got used to São Paulo, and I stayed,” he says.
De Lima had met an American once before, but he had never before spoken with someone from the UK – or, as it is known in Brazil, Inglaterra (apologies to Scotland, Ireland and Wales).De Lima had met an American once before, but he had never before spoken with someone from the UK – or, as it is known in Brazil, Inglaterra (apologies to Scotland, Ireland and Wales).
Adenor Bacchi, the Brazilian soccer coach best known as Tite, had recently praised England in a television interview, he notes.Adenor Bacchi, the Brazilian soccer coach best known as Tite, had recently praised England in a television interview, he notes.
Every morning from 1am to 7am, millions of garments change hands at a secretive “dawn market” in downtown São Paulo – the largest informal market in Latin America.Every morning from 1am to 7am, millions of garments change hands at a secretive “dawn market” in downtown São Paulo – the largest informal market in Latin America.
Behind the racks of thousands of Minnie Mouse and Calvin Klein t-shirts, we found an underworld of sweatshops, where immigrants toil away in conditions akin to slavery and a local mafia profits from the use of public space.Behind the racks of thousands of Minnie Mouse and Calvin Klein t-shirts, we found an underworld of sweatshops, where immigrants toil away in conditions akin to slavery and a local mafia profits from the use of public space.
We met 18-year-old Leidi Laura, sporting stylish eyeliner, taking a nap on a pile of tank tops at 2am. Does the feirinha wear her out? “It’s not bad,” she said, “better than hiding behind a sewing machine.”We met 18-year-old Leidi Laura, sporting stylish eyeliner, taking a nap on a pile of tank tops at 2am. Does the feirinha wear her out? “It’s not bad,” she said, “better than hiding behind a sewing machine.”
Leidi was especially happy about her recent promotion to the “sales department” of the family’s small venture.Leidi was especially happy about her recent promotion to the “sales department” of the family’s small venture.
Repórter Brasil’s investigation into conditions at the market will run later this week.Repórter Brasil’s investigation into conditions at the market will run later this week.
Earlier this afternoon Jon Watts and Dom Phillips met with São Paulo’s mayor, João Doria. Their wide-ranging interview will appear in stories still to come this week, but they tweeted some highlights below.Earlier this afternoon Jon Watts and Dom Phillips met with São Paulo’s mayor, João Doria. Their wide-ranging interview will appear in stories still to come this week, but they tweeted some highlights below.
2 years after drought crisis in São Paulo, Mayor João Doria recognises link between Amazon and city water supply. "We need to preserve rainforest to preserve cycle of rain in southeast Brazil," he tells me and @domphillips #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/0ZwYwCGWxI2 years after drought crisis in São Paulo, Mayor João Doria recognises link between Amazon and city water supply. "We need to preserve rainforest to preserve cycle of rain in southeast Brazil," he tells me and @domphillips #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/0ZwYwCGWxI
São Paulo Mayor João Doria tells Guardian that building occupations "are not part of the (housing shortage) solution, nor part of the problem, they are part of the reality." Interview by me and @domphillips #guardiansaopaulo pic.twitter.com/cSohTee9tHSão Paulo Mayor João Doria tells Guardian that building occupations "are not part of the (housing shortage) solution, nor part of the problem, they are part of the reality." Interview by me and @domphillips #guardiansaopaulo pic.twitter.com/cSohTee9tH
Doria told Jon and Dom that there had been no cuts to education spending – which raised Dom’s eyebrows at least. You’ll find out why in his forthcoming feature.Doria told Jon and Dom that there had been no cuts to education spending – which raised Dom’s eyebrows at least. You’ll find out why in his forthcoming feature.
São Paulo mayor João Doria tells Guardian there have been no cuts to education spending. Really? See my story tomorrow. #GuardianSaoPauloSão Paulo mayor João Doria tells Guardian there have been no cuts to education spending. Really? See my story tomorrow. #GuardianSaoPaulo
But one topline for now?But one topline for now?
Doria has refused to rule out running for president next year. Brazil needs a centrist candidate, he told the Guardian.Doria has refused to rule out running for president next year. Brazil needs a centrist candidate, he told the Guardian.
São Paulo Mayor João Doria refuses to rule out a 2018 presidential bid. In Guardian interview, he says Brazil needs a candidate from the centre. Interview by me and @domphillips #guardiansaopaulo pic.twitter.com/GncbhWOzqfSão Paulo Mayor João Doria refuses to rule out a 2018 presidential bid. In Guardian interview, he says Brazil needs a candidate from the centre. Interview by me and @domphillips #guardiansaopaulo pic.twitter.com/GncbhWOzqf
Many of our roving reporters are apparently caught in traffic jams, compounded by sudden rainfall – not for nothing is São Paulo known as the city of drizzle.Many of our roving reporters are apparently caught in traffic jams, compounded by sudden rainfall – not for nothing is São Paulo known as the city of drizzle.
São Paulo's famous Minhocão highway, just as a heavy cloud of rain descends on the city. Photo by Andre Lucas #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/OjN4gJloohSão Paulo's famous Minhocão highway, just as a heavy cloud of rain descends on the city. Photo by Andre Lucas #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/OjN4gJlooh
It seems an opportune moment to hear from some of our readers.It seems an opportune moment to hear from some of our readers.
Cracolândia has, unsurprisingly, proved especially shocking to readers outside of Brazil, with The Wire’s Hamsterdam proving a crude frame of reference for those of us who can’t begin to comprehend what life may be like in this community.Cracolândia has, unsurprisingly, proved especially shocking to readers outside of Brazil, with The Wire’s Hamsterdam proving a crude frame of reference for those of us who can’t begin to comprehend what life may be like in this community.
A reader, Marcelo, shared this paulistano perspective on Twitter.A reader, Marcelo, shared this paulistano perspective on Twitter.
#GuardianSaoPauloCracolândia is a sureal place even to us. But it can also be seen as a signal of our openness to the less advantaged who need drugs to face the difficulties of life. Brazil hasn't legalize drugs as Canada, Uruguay or Portugal, but at least we tolerate it there#GuardianSaoPauloCracolândia is a sureal place even to us. But it can also be seen as a signal of our openness to the less advantaged who need drugs to face the difficulties of life. Brazil hasn't legalize drugs as Canada, Uruguay or Portugal, but at least we tolerate it there
Guardian reader Istvan singled out the final paragraph of Sam Cowie’s report.Guardian reader Istvan singled out the final paragraph of Sam Cowie’s report.
the last point here is so touching . heartbreaking , if you think about it : ..."....Crackland's main appeal is its community feel ----we are like a family of the excluded"the last point here is so touching . heartbreaking , if you think about it : ..."....Crackland's main appeal is its community feel ----we are like a family of the excluded"
Beneath this blog, another reader remarked on the spirit of camaraderie apparent in the occupations.Beneath this blog, another reader remarked on the spirit of camaraderie apparent in the occupations.
The best thing is the warm camaraderie of people inside the camp who are working for each other,” said Joana Nunes, who describes the occupation as a symbolic cry for help by people who lack access to decent housing, healthcare and education.The best thing is the warm camaraderie of people inside the camp who are working for each other,” said Joana Nunes, who describes the occupation as a symbolic cry for help by people who lack access to decent housing, healthcare and education.
And yet many in the UK who have access to decent housing, healthcare and education do absolutely nothing to help anyone.And yet many in the UK who have access to decent housing, healthcare and education do absolutely nothing to help anyone.
Marcelo’s follow-up point also seemed pertinent:Marcelo’s follow-up point also seemed pertinent:
#GuardianSaoPauloThis city never, ever, stops.#GuardianSaoPauloThis city never, ever, stops.
Let us know what you think of our coverage so far in the comments; by using the hashtag #GuardianSaoPaulo, or emailing saopaulo.week@theguardian.com.Let us know what you think of our coverage so far in the comments; by using the hashtag #GuardianSaoPaulo, or emailing saopaulo.week@theguardian.com.
There are two occupations in Avenida São João: buildings number 288, and 588. Ana Terra Athayde is there this afternoon, talking to residents and coordinators.There are two occupations in Avenida São João: buildings number 288, and 588. Ana Terra Athayde is there this afternoon, talking to residents and coordinators.
588 is the former Columbia Palace Hotel. It had been closed for 27 years when it was occupied in October 2010. Today 81 families live there – 225 residents total, including 38 children. Here are some of their portraits.588 is the former Columbia Palace Hotel. It had been closed for 27 years when it was occupied in October 2010. Today 81 families live there – 225 residents total, including 38 children. Here are some of their portraits.
There are 225 people living in the São João 588 occupation in São Paulo. Here are some of them: pic.twitter.com/L1p6kkECo9There are 225 people living in the São João 588 occupation in São Paulo. Here are some of them: pic.twitter.com/L1p6kkECo9
The Columbia Palace Hotel occupation is known for its lively schedule of cultural activities, organised by and for its tight-knit community. It hosts capoeira, theatre, language classes and movie nights for its residents – there’s even a library.The Columbia Palace Hotel occupation is known for its lively schedule of cultural activities, organised by and for its tight-knit community. It hosts capoeira, theatre, language classes and movie nights for its residents – there’s even a library.
This building, previously known as the Columbia Palace Hotel, is now the home of 225 people. The families occupied it in 2010, renovated the abandoned rooms and built a cultural center, which hosts activities such as capoeira and French classes. Mildo Ferreira [last photo] has been here since 2011. A social worker and former piano teacher, he says that there are many artists living in this tight-knit community. #onassignment #GuardianSaoPauloThis building, previously known as the Columbia Palace Hotel, is now the home of 225 people. The families occupied it in 2010, renovated the abandoned rooms and built a cultural center, which hosts activities such as capoeira and French classes. Mildo Ferreira [last photo] has been here since 2011. A social worker and former piano teacher, he says that there are many artists living in this tight-knit community. #onassignment #GuardianSaoPaulo
A post shared by Ana Terra Athayde (@anaterrathayde) on Nov 27, 2017 at 8:29am PSTA post shared by Ana Terra Athayde (@anaterrathayde) on Nov 27, 2017 at 8:29am PST
91-year-old Elca Cartum has lived with the constant roar and pollution of the Minhocao a few metres from her living room window for 32 years #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/NvlqbmN8oB91-year-old Elca Cartum has lived with the constant roar and pollution of the Minhocao a few metres from her living room window for 32 years #GuardianSaoPaulo pic.twitter.com/NvlqbmN8oB
“I remember when our street had trees on it. It was so nice,” 91-year-old Elca Cartum told me as she sat in her living room, metres away from the incessant stream of cars and trucks on the elevated highway which passes right outside her window.“I remember when our street had trees on it. It was so nice,” 91-year-old Elca Cartum told me as she sat in her living room, metres away from the incessant stream of cars and trucks on the elevated highway which passes right outside her window.
In the late 1960s Brazil’s military dictatorship decided São Paulo needed an elevated highway to help link the east and west of the city. So began the largest infrastructure project in South America at the time, and the result was the Elevado Presidente Costa e Silva, named after a key figure in the military government. It has since been renamed, but everyone knows it as the Minhocão – after a giant mythical worm which roams the forests of South and Central America.In the late 1960s Brazil’s military dictatorship decided São Paulo needed an elevated highway to help link the east and west of the city. So began the largest infrastructure project in South America at the time, and the result was the Elevado Presidente Costa e Silva, named after a key figure in the military government. It has since been renamed, but everyone knows it as the Minhocão – after a giant mythical worm which roams the forests of South and Central America.
“As soon as they built it many of our neighbours moved away,” Elca recalls, but her husband wanted to stay near his dental surgery downtown, and the children were settled at school. “Once most of them had left it was too late for us. The price had fallen too far and we couldn’t make up the difference if we moved anywhere else. It was a sad time.”“As soon as they built it many of our neighbours moved away,” Elca recalls, but her husband wanted to stay near his dental surgery downtown, and the children were settled at school. “Once most of them had left it was too late for us. The price had fallen too far and we couldn’t make up the difference if we moved anywhere else. It was a sad time.”
But on Saturday afternoons, all day Sunday and weeknights, the highway is closed to cars and the residents take over. People skate, run, ride bikes, play football … Another kind of occupation by the people of São Paulo.But on Saturday afternoons, all day Sunday and weeknights, the highway is closed to cars and the residents take over. People skate, run, ride bikes, play football … Another kind of occupation by the people of São Paulo.
Irene Guimarães, who hosted us at Occupation Esperança, told us that the community is led by women – first out of necessity, as men worked during the day, and then because of the strength of their relationships. This video was again shot by Ana Terra Athayde.Irene Guimarães, who hosted us at Occupation Esperança, told us that the community is led by women – first out of necessity, as men worked during the day, and then because of the strength of their relationships. This video was again shot by Ana Terra Athayde.