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Ksenia Sobchak: celebrity presidential candidate travels to Chechnya to confront Kadryov on gay rights - but finds nobody home Ksenia Sobchak: Russian celebrity presidential candidate travels to Chechnya to confront Kadyrov on human rights – but finds nobody home
(about 2 hours later)
It was supposed to take everyone by surprise: a campaign trip to Chechnya and Ingushetia, volatile republics at Russia’s southern border that are considered political no-go areas to all but the invited. It was supposed to take everyone by surprise: a campaign trip to Chechnya and Ingushetia, volatile republics at Russia’s southern border that are considered political no-go areas to all but the invited. 
Ahead of presidential candidate Ksenia Sobchak’s trip, the few details of the journey were discussed in conspiratorial tones. Journalists were sworn to secrecy. After all, there was no guarantee a visit by the liberal, pro-gay, celebrity candidate would be met particularly well.  Ahead of presidential candidate Ksenia Sobchak’s trip, the few details of the journey were discussed in conspiratorial tones. Journalists were sworn to secrecy. After all, there was no guarantee a visit by the liberal, pro-gay celebrity candidate would be met particularly well. 
The reality on the ground, of course, turned out somewhat different. Every step of the way, police were waiting, checking passports and filming the proceedings. Meetings were cancelled before they began. On one occasion, lights were even turned out in the middle of discussion. By the time Ms Sobchak arrived in the Chechen capital Grozny midday on Sunday, it was already clear she would not be getting the scoop she had looked for — a showdown with the most irascible leader in the region, Ramzan Kadyrov. The reality on the ground, of course, turned out somewhat different. Every step of the way, police were waiting, checking passports and filming the proceedings. Meetings were cancelled before they began. On one occasion, lights were even turned out in the middle of a discussion. By the time Ms Sobchak arrived in the Chechen capital, Grozny, midday on Sunday, it was already clear she would not be getting the scoop she had hoped for – a showdown with the most irascible leader in the region, Ramzan Kadyrov.
In the event, the celebrity presidential candidate spent barely an hour in the Chechen capital before leaving for the airport. In the absence of meetings, she settled on two media narratives. First, she presented herself as a one-woman picket in protest at the trial of local activist Oyub Titiev, 60, who was detained on bogus drugs charges two weeks ago. Second, a walkabout of the Vladimir Putin Prospect, a highlight of a city centre largely devoted to Putin and the Kadyrov family.In the event, the celebrity presidential candidate spent barely an hour in the Chechen capital before leaving for the airport. In the absence of meetings, she settled on two media narratives. First, she presented herself as a one-woman picket in protest at the trial of local activist Oyub Titiev, 60, who was detained on bogus drugs charges two weeks ago. Second, a walkabout of the Vladimir Putin Prospect, a highlight of a city centre largely devoted to Putin and the Kadyrov family.
On Sunday, however, Vladimir Putin Prospect was deserted. The shops were shut, despite advertising to the contrary. It seemed no accident. One of the only signs of life was a man minding an expresso van, and Ms Sobchak duly made her way to speak to him. This was where the first call went out.  On Sunday, however, Vladimir Putin Prospect was deserted. The shops were shut, despite advertising to the contrary. It seemed no accident. One of the only signs of life was a man minding an espresso van, and Ms Sobchak duly made her way to speak to him. This was where the first call went out. 
“Why are you drinking coffee,” a bearded man of veined features and rotten teeth, shouted out. “Coffee is bad for horses.” “Why are you drinking coffee,” a bearded man of veined features and rotten teeth shouted out. “Coffee is bad for horses.”
The coarse joke referred to an internet meme, now several years old, which unfavourably compared Ms Sobchak’s facial features to those of a horse. The candidate took the prepared slight in her stride: surely a self-respecting Chechen man could not dare to be so rude to women, she asked?  The coarse joke referred to an internet meme, now several years old, which unfavourably compared Ms Sobchak’s facial features to those of a horse. The candidate took the prepared slight in her stride: surely a self-respecting Chechen man would not dare to be so rude to women, she asked?
“Push off, leave,” said the man. “My home is no place for you.”“Push off, leave,” said the man. “My home is no place for you.”
The man was one of a group of perhaps a dozen men, aged 25-30, who all appeared to be communicating their actions via mobile or walkie talkie. They shouted “go home,” “horsey,” and “Dom-2,” in reference to the trashy Big Brother reality show she once fronted.  The man was one of a group of perhaps a dozen men, aged 25 to 30, who all appeared to be communicating their actions via mobile or walkie talkie. They shouted “go home”, “horsey”, and “Dom-2”, in reference to the trashy Big Brother reality show she once fronted.
The leader of the group, who had been hidden under a hood, made the final confrontation to Sobchak.  The leader of the group, who had been hidden under a hood, made the final confrontation to Ms Sobchak. 
“Why have you come now? You’re a failed journalist!" “Why have you come now? You’re a failed journalist!”
“I came here to talk about Titiev." “I came here to talk about Titiev.”
“Titiev is a nobody." “Titiev is a nobody.”
“He was investigating missing people.” “He was investigating missing people.” 
“No one goes missing here in Chechnya.” “No one goes missing here in Chechnya.” 
“You think it’s normal that people come here to be attacked like this?” “You think it’s normal that people come here to be attacked like this?” 
“You have a reputation here.” “You have a reputation here.” 
By the end of the day, it seemed, Ms Sobchak had, in fact, “met” with the Chechen leader. He had not, it seems, been able to hold back from the offence of seeing an enemy in his home and thus ensured Ms Sobchak’s visit made the headlines across the country.  By the end of the day, it seemed Ms Sobchak had, in fact, “met” with the Chechen leader. He had not, it seems, been able to hold back from the offence of seeing an enemy in his home and thus ensured Ms Sobchak’s visit made the headlines across the country. 
Ms Sobchak’s decision to come to the region today was controversial not only with local strongmen. Coinciding as it did with a nationwide day of protests called by Alexei Navalny, some suggested that she was looking to undermine her opposition rival. Mr Navalny, a presidential hopeful who has been barred from running, has been increasingly critical of Ms Sobchak’s campaign. He describes her candidature as “unserious,” and compromised, and is calling for a boycott of the elections to scupper the government’s hopes of a strong turnout.  Ms Sobchak’s decision to come to the region was controversial not only with local strongmen. Coinciding as it did with a nationwide day of protests called by Alexei Navalny, some suggested that she was looking to undermine her opposition rival. Mr Navalny, a presidential hopeful who has been barred from running, has been increasingly critical of Ms Sobchak’s campaign. He described her candidature as “unserious” and compromised, and called for a boycott of the elections to scupper the government’s hopes of a strong turnout. 
Mr Navalny was one of the 240 estimated arrested nationwide in protests as of 5pm Moscow time. The numbers attending the unsanctioned demonstrations are significantly less than other demonstrations last year. Police had been especially active in the run-up, targeting Mr Navalny’s regional headquarters and blocking the charitable foundation that funds them. On the day of the protests, one of his YouTube channel presenters was arrested live on air. His alleged crime? Making a hoax bomb threat for Navalny’s office — ie where he was broadcasting.  Mr Navalny was one of the 240 estimated arrested nationwide in protests as of 5pm Moscow time today. The numbers attending the unsanctioned demonstrations were significantly less than other demonstrations last year. Police had been especially active in the run-up, targeting Mr Navalny’s regional headquarters and blocking the charitable foundation that funds them. On the day of the protests, one of his YouTube channel presenters was arrested live on air. His alleged crime? Making a hoax bomb threat to Navalny’s office... where he was broadcasting. 
Ms Sobchak initially tells The Independent that she had not planned her dates to coincide with the protests. “It was prepared a long time ago — perhaps four weeks ago,” she said. Granted, this was about the same time that Mr Navalny declared his boycott, but that’s a detail: “I’m not here to talk about other opposition candidates. My competitor is not Navalny, but Putin!”  Ms Sobchak initially told The Independent that she had not planned her dates to coincide with the protests. “It was prepared a long time ago – perhaps four weeks ago,” she said. Granted, this was about the same time that Mr Navalny declared his boycott, but that’s a detail: “I’m not here to talk about other opposition candidates. My competitor is not Navalny, but Putin!” 
Ms Sobchak relents: “You know, Alexei and I just believe in different things. I respect his work — I just don’t believe that it will leave to positive changes. I’ve always been against unsanctioned protest. I think you should only attend demonstrations that have been agreed in advance. Like Bolotnaya.”  Ms Sobchak relents: “You know, Alexei and I just believe in different things. I respect his work – I just don’t believe that it will lead to positive changes. I’ve always been against unsanctioned protest. I think you should only attend demonstrations that have been agreed in advance. Like Bolotnaya.” 
The Bolotnaya protests of 2011-12 were the last major opposition protests to have been given a green light from above. Since then, authorities have been reluctant to grant permission for rallies near to the centre of major cities. The Bolotnaya protests of 2011-12 were the last major opposition protests to have been given a green light from above. Since then, authorities have been reluctant to grant permission for rallies near to the centre of major cities. 
Ms Sobchak says the aim of her trip was to highlight pressing human rights rights issues in a region usually ignored by the Russian media. No doubt, the visit was well-received by some. In Ingushetia, raw emotion often pierced through during Sobchak’s meetings. Many complained of pressure from the local authorities, who, they said were unaccountable to anyone but Moscow.”  Ms Sobchak said the aim of her trip was to highlight pressing human rights issues in a region usually ignored by the Russian media. No doubt, the visit was well-received by some. In Ingushetia, raw emotion often pierced through during Ms Sobchak’s meetings. Many complained of pressure from the local authorities, who, they said, were unaccountable to anyone but Moscow. 
As the evening drew to a close, a man rose to address the audience. “I have three sons. One of them was killed. No one said anything about it – no information about the investigation,” he said. “Then my second son disappeared two years ago… It’s the truth – Vakha, who is my relative, will back me up. ” As the evening drew to a close, a man rose to address the audience. “I have three sons. One of them was killed. No one said anything about it – no information about the investigation,” he said. “Then my second son disappeared two years ago… It’s the truth – Vakha, who is my relative, will back me up.”
“Vakha,” who turned out to be one of Sobchak’s local organisers, confirms the tale and before too long he is in tears and asks for water. “When I said I wanted to help Sobchak, they started to threaten me and my family. I hope that this publicity will protect us.”  “Vakha,” who turned out to be one of Ms Sobchak’s local organisers, confirmed the tale and before too long he was in tears and asked for water. “When I said I wanted to help Sobchak, they started to threaten me and my family. I hope that this publicity will protect us.” 
“I will be your microphone,” Ms Sobchak offered in return. “I will be your microphone,” Ms Sobchak offered in return. 
It was, of course, hardly a security guarantee.It was, of course, hardly a security guarantee.