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K2: Climber Denis Urubko aborts 'suicidal' solo ascent | K2: Climber Denis Urubko aborts 'suicidal' solo ascent |
(about 2 hours later) | |
Mountaineer Denis Urubko has quit a dangerous bid to make the first solo winter ascent of K2, the world's second-highest mountain, a spokesman for his Polish expedition says. | Mountaineer Denis Urubko has quit a dangerous bid to make the first solo winter ascent of K2, the world's second-highest mountain, a spokesman for his Polish expedition says. |
Mr Urubko decided on Sunday to set out alone after a row with the expedition. | Mr Urubko decided on Sunday to set out alone after a row with the expedition. |
He is said to have wanted to make the ascent before the arrival of better weather conditions in March. | He is said to have wanted to make the ascent before the arrival of better weather conditions in March. |
Amid concern over his safety, the expedition spokesman said Mr Urubko was now heading down the peak to a base. | Amid concern over his safety, the expedition spokesman said Mr Urubko was now heading down the peak to a base. |
Michal Leksinski told the BBC that he expected Mr Urubko to reach base camp by Tuesday morning at the latest. | Michal Leksinski told the BBC that he expected Mr Urubko to reach base camp by Tuesday morning at the latest. |
The Russian-Polish mountaineer is likely to have spent a night at 7,200m (23,600ft) and decided to turn back after experiencing the severe weather conditions, Mr Leksinski added. | The Russian-Polish mountaineer is likely to have spent a night at 7,200m (23,600ft) and decided to turn back after experiencing the severe weather conditions, Mr Leksinski added. |
He said other climbers on the mountain had seen Mr Urubko descending and reported it to base camp. | He said other climbers on the mountain had seen Mr Urubko descending and reported it to base camp. |
It is thought he wanted to reach the top of the mountain this month so his effort would definitely count as a winter climb. | It is thought he wanted to reach the top of the mountain this month so his effort would definitely count as a winter climb. |
Why did they fall out? | Why did they fall out? |
Mr Urubko reportedly left for the summit without a radio, after refusing to discuss his plans. | Mr Urubko reportedly left for the summit without a radio, after refusing to discuss his plans. |
"He was trying to persuade the team to push for the summit in February," a porter with the group told AFP news agency. | "He was trying to persuade the team to push for the summit in February," a porter with the group told AFP news agency. |
"He has had a heated debate with the team leader and left for the summit without saying a word." | "He has had a heated debate with the team leader and left for the summit without saying a word." |
How dangerous would a solo bid be? | How dangerous would a solo bid be? |
Professional mountaineers expressed dismay at the climber's decision. | Professional mountaineers expressed dismay at the climber's decision. |
"A solo attempt of K2 in winter is completely suicidal," said Pakistani climber Mirza Ali Baig. | "A solo attempt of K2 in winter is completely suicidal," said Pakistani climber Mirza Ali Baig. |
Alan Arnette, a US climber who did make it to the summit of K2, told the BBC: "It's a huge risk. You have to cross a traverse underneath a 30-storey ice serac, a hanging serac of a wall of ice that let loose in 2008 and killed 11 climbers that year." | Alan Arnette, a US climber who did make it to the summit of K2, told the BBC: "It's a huge risk. You have to cross a traverse underneath a 30-storey ice serac, a hanging serac of a wall of ice that let loose in 2008 and killed 11 climbers that year." |
Karim Shah, a mountaineering friend of Mr Urubko, agreed the move was "very risky". | Karim Shah, a mountaineering friend of Mr Urubko, agreed the move was "very risky". |
"He is known as the 'Himalayan expert' among the mountaineering community. But his decision is not correct and does not suit someone of his stature," he said. | "He is known as the 'Himalayan expert' among the mountaineering community. But his decision is not correct and does not suit someone of his stature," he said. |
How good is Denis Urubko? | How good is Denis Urubko? |
He is said to be a highly capable mountaineer who has conquered all of the world's 14 peaks over 8,000m. | He is said to be a highly capable mountaineer who has conquered all of the world's 14 peaks over 8,000m. |
Mr Urubko made headlines just last month by saving a stricken French climber, Elisabeth Revol. | Mr Urubko made headlines just last month by saving a stricken French climber, Elisabeth Revol. |
He and three other team members were flown by helicopter from K2 to the 8,126m Nanga Parbat in Pakistan - nicknamed Killer Mountain - where they performed an audacious night-time rescue. | He and three other team members were flown by helicopter from K2 to the 8,126m Nanga Parbat in Pakistan - nicknamed Killer Mountain - where they performed an audacious night-time rescue. |
K2 stands at 8,611m and is the only peak above 8,000m never climbed in winter. | K2 stands at 8,611m and is the only peak above 8,000m never climbed in winter. |
It has a higher fatality-to-summit rate than Everest, and is known as the Savage Mountain due to its fiendish conditions. | It has a higher fatality-to-summit rate than Everest, and is known as the Savage Mountain due to its fiendish conditions. |
Avalanches are an ever-present risk, and in winter temperatures can fall to -50C (-58F), accompanied by winds of up to 200km/h (124mph). | Avalanches are an ever-present risk, and in winter temperatures can fall to -50C (-58F), accompanied by winds of up to 200km/h (124mph). |
On 1 August 2008, 11 climbers from international expeditions were killed or simply vanished on K2 - in what was one of the deadliest days in mountaineering history. | On 1 August 2008, 11 climbers from international expeditions were killed or simply vanished on K2 - in what was one of the deadliest days in mountaineering history. |
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