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On the Road to Sinjar, Armed Men With Shifting Allegiances Decide Who Can Pass In Iraq, I Found Checkpoints as Endless as the Whims of Armed Men
(about 20 hours later)
Few American reporters have spent more time reporting from Iraq in the last 15 years than Alissa J. Rubin, who served as both a correspondent and the Baghdad bureau chief for The New York Times at the height of the conflict. Rubin returned to Iraq in 2014 to cover the rise of the Islamic State and was severely injured in a helicopter crash on Mount Sinjar while reporting on targeted attacks against the Yazidi population. She once again returned to the region in January 2018 for a coming article in The Times Magazine. On a drive to the Iraq-Syria border during her last trip, Rubin found that competing military and militia groups had set up checkpoints everywhere, making travel increasingly difficult. The following is an account of the nine hours it took her and her companions to drive 130 miles through more than 26 checkpoints.Few American reporters have spent more time reporting from Iraq in the last 15 years than Alissa J. Rubin, who served as both a correspondent and the Baghdad bureau chief for The New York Times at the height of the conflict. Rubin returned to Iraq in 2014 to cover the rise of the Islamic State and was severely injured in a helicopter crash on Mount Sinjar while reporting on targeted attacks against the Yazidi population. She once again returned to the region in January 2018 for a coming article in The Times Magazine. On a drive to the Iraq-Syria border during her last trip, Rubin found that competing military and militia groups had set up checkpoints everywhere, making travel increasingly difficult. The following is an account of the nine hours it took her and her companions to drive 130 miles through more than 26 checkpoints.
We were headed from Dohuk, a city in Iraqi Kurdistan, to Sinjar, near the Syrian border — a journey, at slightly more than 130 miles, that should be traversable in three hours. Before leaving, I asked around about the route. Answers were ominous. “It’s impossible to get there,” one person said. Another seconded that we’d never get through. “There are 40 checkpoints,” another man said.
[The Times is reintroducing At War, a forum for the firsthand experiences of global conflict.][The Times is reintroducing At War, a forum for the firsthand experiences of global conflict.]
We were headed from Dohuk, a city in Iraqi Kurdistan, to Sinjar, near the Syrian border — a journey, at slightly more than 130 miles, that should be traversable in three hours. Before leaving, I asked around about the route. Answers were ominous. “It’s impossible to get there,” one person said. Another seconded that we’d never get through. “There are 40 checkpoints,” another man said.
A professor described a circuitous route. “I went around through Syria, but I don’t think you can do that.”A professor described a circuitous route. “I went around through Syria, but I don’t think you can do that.”
It seemed that although open conflict was over, the region was partially locked down by a heavy and confusing armed presence, in places with factional undertones. Driving from east to west, the groups governing the roads morphed from the Peshmerga into the Iraqi Army into a variety of Shiite-connected militias and finally into militias run by the Syrian Kurds and Turkish Kurds. Each had their own flags, alliances and reasons for being there.It seemed that although open conflict was over, the region was partially locked down by a heavy and confusing armed presence, in places with factional undertones. Driving from east to west, the groups governing the roads morphed from the Peshmerga into the Iraqi Army into a variety of Shiite-connected militias and finally into militias run by the Syrian Kurds and Turkish Kurds. Each had their own flags, alliances and reasons for being there.
I departed in the freezing fog of a winter morning with two companions: Kamil Kakol, a seasoned multilingual Iraqi journalist, and Khalaf Shamdeen, a Yazidi driver who spoke no English but could translate the Yazidi dialect into Kurdish. He was from Sinjar and knew back roads and shortcuts.I departed in the freezing fog of a winter morning with two companions: Kamil Kakol, a seasoned multilingual Iraqi journalist, and Khalaf Shamdeen, a Yazidi driver who spoke no English but could translate the Yazidi dialect into Kurdish. He was from Sinjar and knew back roads and shortcuts.
The first checkpoints were run by the Peshmerga, the Kurds’ fighting force. We were waved through. Our names had been sent to each Kurdish-controlled checkpoint, just as Kurdish officials had promised.The first checkpoints were run by the Peshmerga, the Kurds’ fighting force. We were waved through. Our names had been sent to each Kurdish-controlled checkpoint, just as Kurdish officials had promised.
After the last Kurdish position, everything changed. We were diverted onto a minor road that twisted through the desert scrub of the Nineveh plains. We emerged at a large Iraqi Army checkpoint with cars and trucks parked haphazardly on either side.After the last Kurdish position, everything changed. We were diverted onto a minor road that twisted through the desert scrub of the Nineveh plains. We emerged at a large Iraqi Army checkpoint with cars and trucks parked haphazardly on either side.
A soldier asked if I was a foreigner. Yes, we said.A soldier asked if I was a foreigner. Yes, we said.
We were not allowed to pass. At a dilapidated concrete building surrounded by mud and pickup trucks, we were told we could plead our case.We were not allowed to pass. At a dilapidated concrete building surrounded by mud and pickup trucks, we were told we could plead our case.
The one dubious comfort was that there seemed to be others waylaid.The one dubious comfort was that there seemed to be others waylaid.
We entered a room with scuffed walls. Soiled, sunken couches lay along two sides of the room. There was a large battered desk along the third wall. On the fourth wall was an army cot. The only light came through windows so dirty it was hard to see out. A soldier smoked a hookah pipe.We entered a room with scuffed walls. Soiled, sunken couches lay along two sides of the room. There was a large battered desk along the third wall. On the fourth wall was an army cot. The only light came through windows so dirty it was hard to see out. A soldier smoked a hookah pipe.
A man wearing jeans and a leather jacket restlessly paced. He appeared to be in charge. “Papers,” he snapped.A man wearing jeans and a leather jacket restlessly paced. He appeared to be in charge. “Papers,” he snapped.
We produced press cards. Looking around, I saw other idled travelers with forms bearing official-looking stamps. The soldier reviewed each form carefully.We produced press cards. Looking around, I saw other idled travelers with forms bearing official-looking stamps. The soldier reviewed each form carefully.
He seemed decent enough. He said he would call his supervisor, and if we had permission, we could cross.He seemed decent enough. He said he would call his supervisor, and if we had permission, we could cross.
We called our bureau in Baghdad. We did have government approval. We asked our office manager to try to get someone with authority to call the checkpoint on our behalf.We called our bureau in Baghdad. We did have government approval. We asked our office manager to try to get someone with authority to call the checkpoint on our behalf.
We waited. We waited some more. Other travelers came and went. Our office in Baghdad recommended we call local army commanders. We texted, we called, then we pleaded some more with the checkpoint chief. Nothing happened.We waited. We waited some more. Other travelers came and went. Our office in Baghdad recommended we call local army commanders. We texted, we called, then we pleaded some more with the checkpoint chief. Nothing happened.
I looked at my watch. It had been an hour and five minutes. I turned to Kamil: “What can we do?”I looked at my watch. It had been an hour and five minutes. I turned to Kamil: “What can we do?”
“You know Jabouri, right?” he said.“You know Jabouri, right?” he said.
No, I answered.No, I answered.
Kamil was referring to Gen. Najim Abed al-Jabouri, the Iraqi Army commander in charge of Mosul and the surrounding territory, who had a reputation for being reasonable.Kamil was referring to Gen. Najim Abed al-Jabouri, the Iraqi Army commander in charge of Mosul and the surrounding territory, who had a reputation for being reasonable.
“Even if you don’t know him, why don’t you call him?” Kamil said.“Even if you don’t know him, why don’t you call him?” Kamil said.
More calls to Baghdad. Jabouri’s number was sent to me. As I typed him a text message, the checkpoint soldier dialed a number on his phone, muttering in Arabic.More calls to Baghdad. Jabouri’s number was sent to me. As I typed him a text message, the checkpoint soldier dialed a number on his phone, muttering in Arabic.
Kamil had been watching. He spoke softly to me. “The guy just made a phone call and said, ‘Now they are calling Jabouri, I’m going to let them go.’ ”Kamil had been watching. He spoke softly to me. “The guy just made a phone call and said, ‘Now they are calling Jabouri, I’m going to let them go.’ ”
An hour and 15 minutes after arriving, we were free. We rushed to our car before anyone of them could change their minds.An hour and 15 minutes after arriving, we were free. We rushed to our car before anyone of them could change their minds.
Checkpoints, often subject to inscructable rules and the whims of armed men, are hardly an anomaly in Iraq. So it was no surprise finding them on our journey. But with the possible exception of the weeks after the Islamic State seized Mosul in 2014, I had never traveled through a rural area of Iraq with checkpoints as dense and as shifting in their allegiances as the network around Sinjar.Checkpoints, often subject to inscructable rules and the whims of armed men, are hardly an anomaly in Iraq. So it was no surprise finding them on our journey. But with the possible exception of the weeks after the Islamic State seized Mosul in 2014, I had never traveled through a rural area of Iraq with checkpoints as dense and as shifting in their allegiances as the network around Sinjar.
The next two checkpoints we encountered were also run by the Iraqi Army. After inspecting our press cards, they waved us through.The next two checkpoints we encountered were also run by the Iraqi Army. After inspecting our press cards, they waved us through.
We approached the Mosul Dam. The water of the Tigris River ran between low hills on either side.We approached the Mosul Dam. The water of the Tigris River ran between low hills on either side.
The dam ranks among Iraq’s most important infrastructure. If the Islamic State had blown it up, as the United States Army Corps of Engineers feared, it would have done untold damage downstream, flooding villages and farmland.The dam ranks among Iraq’s most important infrastructure. If the Islamic State had blown it up, as the United States Army Corps of Engineers feared, it would have done untold damage downstream, flooding villages and farmland.
Once it was recaptured in August 2014, security was tightened to the point that hardly anyone was permitted to cross the bridge below it, unless they worked there.Once it was recaptured in August 2014, security was tightened to the point that hardly anyone was permitted to cross the bridge below it, unless they worked there.
I had not appreciated what that meant. The checkpoint was manned by Iraqi Counterterrorism Service forces wearing skeleton-face masks and armed almost as if they were U.S. Special Operations troops. One looked into our car.I had not appreciated what that meant. The checkpoint was manned by Iraqi Counterterrorism Service forces wearing skeleton-face masks and armed almost as if they were U.S. Special Operations troops. One looked into our car.
“No badge, no permission,” he said. “Turn around.”“No badge, no permission,” he said. “Turn around.”
It was an order. He was not interested in discussion.It was an order. He was not interested in discussion.
We retreated about 150 meters. The office manager in Baghdad started calling counterterrorism officers. We waited. Twenty five minutes later, we were summoned. A general in the counterterrorism force had called. We were cleared. It felt miraculous.We retreated about 150 meters. The office manager in Baghdad started calling counterterrorism officers. We waited. Twenty five minutes later, we were summoned. A general in the counterterrorism force had called. We were cleared. It felt miraculous.
On we went, past attractive ranch houses where the dam’s Iraqi and Italian engineers lived, past the playground for their kids, finally over the bridge and through a checkpoint on the far side.On we went, past attractive ranch houses where the dam’s Iraqi and Italian engineers lived, past the playground for their kids, finally over the bridge and through a checkpoint on the far side.
It was 1 p.m. We were five hours into a trip that was supposed to take three.It was 1 p.m. We were five hours into a trip that was supposed to take three.
The next checkpoint appeared as our car crested a hill. No cars were waiting to go through. But when the soldier took away our passports and press cards to inspect them closely, my stomach tightened. It was better when they just glanced and waved us through.The next checkpoint appeared as our car crested a hill. No cars were waiting to go through. But when the soldier took away our passports and press cards to inspect them closely, my stomach tightened. It was better when they just glanced and waved us through.
The commander was a second lieutenant from the 15th Iraqi Army Division. He said he had to check with his superiors before letting a foreigner pass.The commander was a second lieutenant from the 15th Iraqi Army Division. He said he had to check with his superiors before letting a foreigner pass.
The midday winter sun was high. It was slightly warmer outside than in the car. I walked around. The commander disappeared for lunch.The midday winter sun was high. It was slightly warmer outside than in the car. I walked around. The commander disappeared for lunch.
Time passed. The commander reappeared and gave us sugary tea in plastic cups. The cups were too hot to hold, so we kept shifting them from one hand to the other. He tried to make conversation.Time passed. The commander reappeared and gave us sugary tea in plastic cups. The cups were too hot to hold, so we kept shifting them from one hand to the other. He tried to make conversation.
Where was I from?Where was I from?
When was I last in Baghdad? How were things there?When was I last in Baghdad? How were things there?
How could I leave my family to come here? What did my husband think of my traveling alone?How could I leave my family to come here? What did my husband think of my traveling alone?
More time lost. Ninety minutes; two hours. The sun began to descend.More time lost. Ninety minutes; two hours. The sun began to descend.
Finally, someone in the army hierarchy called the commander. We could go.Finally, someone in the army hierarchy called the commander. We could go.
Northern Iraq has a polyglot population of ethnic Kurds, Arabs and Turkmens. Religiously it is just as diverse. Today it is predominantly Muslim, with primarily Sunni but also Shiite populations, although Christian sects have made the area their home almost since the faith’s earliest days. It is also home to little-known religions — including that of the Yazidis — that hardly exist elsewhere.Northern Iraq has a polyglot population of ethnic Kurds, Arabs and Turkmens. Religiously it is just as diverse. Today it is predominantly Muslim, with primarily Sunni but also Shiite populations, although Christian sects have made the area their home almost since the faith’s earliest days. It is also home to little-known religions — including that of the Yazidis — that hardly exist elsewhere.
Although not truly integrated, these communities lived side by side until the Islamic State’s incursion upended the entente and displaced many of the local populations. Now, even though ISIS was mostly gone, the area remained partitioned between groups with unclear motives.Although not truly integrated, these communities lived side by side until the Islamic State’s incursion upended the entente and displaced many of the local populations. Now, even though ISIS was mostly gone, the area remained partitioned between groups with unclear motives.
At the next checkpoint, outside Tal Afar, all Iraqi government flags were gone. A flag bearing the image of Imam Ali waved in the breeze. Another carried the Iraqi colors with a logo at the bottom.At the next checkpoint, outside Tal Afar, all Iraqi government flags were gone. A flag bearing the image of Imam Ali waved in the breeze. Another carried the Iraqi colors with a logo at the bottom.
The flag belonged to Hashd al-Shaabi, or the Popular Mobilization Forces, an umbrella name for an array of deputized Shiite-majority militias that organized in 2014 to fight the Islamic State as complements to government units. Technically under the authority of Iraq, many of the militias have received extensive assistance from Iran.The flag belonged to Hashd al-Shaabi, or the Popular Mobilization Forces, an umbrella name for an array of deputized Shiite-majority militias that organized in 2014 to fight the Islamic State as complements to government units. Technically under the authority of Iraq, many of the militias have received extensive assistance from Iran.
Because the checkpoint was controlled by a Shiite group and was flying flags typically favored by Shiites, many Sunnis would see it as sectarian, if not threatening.Because the checkpoint was controlled by a Shiite group and was flying flags typically favored by Shiites, many Sunnis would see it as sectarian, if not threatening.
The Hashd were young, tough-looking fighters. At their first checkpoint, they stopped us. We explained where we were going.The Hashd were young, tough-looking fighters. At their first checkpoint, they stopped us. We explained where we were going.
“You can’t go that way,” one of them said. “Two ISIS fighters were arrested on that road last night. No one can go through.”“You can’t go that way,” one of them said. “Two ISIS fighters were arrested on that road last night. No one can go through.”
True? Not true? We asked if there was another route.True? Not true? We asked if there was another route.
“Yes, via Rabia.”“Yes, via Rabia.”
Satisfied that we would not stray where Hashd forces were still operating, they waved us on.Satisfied that we would not stray where Hashd forces were still operating, they waved us on.
Now checkpoints came thick and fast — one every kilometer, some closer together than that.Now checkpoints came thick and fast — one every kilometer, some closer together than that.
One checkpoint was nothing more than two boys leaning against a wall. They looked into the car, holding their Kalashnikovs awkwardly. We told them we were journalists headed to Sinjar.One checkpoint was nothing more than two boys leaning against a wall. They looked into the car, holding their Kalashnikovs awkwardly. We told them we were journalists headed to Sinjar.
“Write that they should pay us more,” one said.“Write that they should pay us more,” one said.
The other asked for food.The other asked for food.
Before we could answer, he opened our car’s back door and was reaching into our cooler, taking bananas and drinks.Before we could answer, he opened our car’s back door and was reaching into our cooler, taking bananas and drinks.
We drove on. Each checkpoint had a slightly different collection of flags. Almost all were Shiite. It seemed that on the Sunni frontier, the Shiite militias had put down markers.We drove on. Each checkpoint had a slightly different collection of flags. Almost all were Shiite. It seemed that on the Sunni frontier, the Shiite militias had put down markers.
The second-to-last checkpoint flew a different flag — an orange sun against a red-and-white background. I recognized it with relief.The second-to-last checkpoint flew a different flag — an orange sun against a red-and-white background. I recognized it with relief.
This was the flag of a Yazidi militia led by Haider Sheshu. Sheshu had refused to leave Sinjar when ISIS came. He stayed on the mountain and led a guerrilla war against them. His fighters waved us through with a nod.This was the flag of a Yazidi militia led by Haider Sheshu. Sheshu had refused to leave Sinjar when ISIS came. He stayed on the mountain and led a guerrilla war against them. His fighters waved us through with a nod.
I could have hugged them. After more than two dozen checkpoints, a journey that should have taken three hours had stretched to nine. When we pulled into the village of Snuny, at the base of Mount Sinjar, the sun had long since set; it was pitch black.I could have hugged them. After more than two dozen checkpoints, a journey that should have taken three hours had stretched to nine. When we pulled into the village of Snuny, at the base of Mount Sinjar, the sun had long since set; it was pitch black.