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Pipes, monks and glaciers: Climbing Everest, 1920s-style | Pipes, monks and glaciers: Climbing Everest, 1920s-style |
(about 4 hours later) | |
British mountaineer George Mallory took his last breath on the imperious slopes of Everest in 1924. | British mountaineer George Mallory took his last breath on the imperious slopes of Everest in 1924. |
But three years before that, he made history as part of the first British reconnaissance expedition to the world's highest peak. | But three years before that, he made history as part of the first British reconnaissance expedition to the world's highest peak. |
Led by soldier and explorer Charles Howard-Bury, this was the first group of Westerners to set foot on Everest. | Led by soldier and explorer Charles Howard-Bury, this was the first group of Westerners to set foot on Everest. |
Mallory and fellow climber Guy Bullock made it 23,000ft up the mountain via the North Col, on Everest's north ridge, before searing winds forced them to turn back. | Mallory and fellow climber Guy Bullock made it 23,000ft up the mountain via the North Col, on Everest's north ridge, before searing winds forced them to turn back. |
Their journey proved that there was indeed a path to the top of the world. These are the pictures they took on the way: | Their journey proved that there was indeed a path to the top of the world. These are the pictures they took on the way: |
The rocky shot below was captured on the Kyetrak Glacier on Cho Oyo, a mountain whose name means Turquoise Goddess in Tibetan. The peak is the world's sixth-highest. | |
The team were lucky to get it, as they encountered some early technical difficulties. Specifically, Mallory realised a month into the trip that he had put the glass-plate negatives in his camera the wrong way round. | The team were lucky to get it, as they encountered some early technical difficulties. Specifically, Mallory realised a month into the trip that he had put the glass-plate negatives in his camera the wrong way round. |
He had clearly mastered photography to a greater degree by the time the team reached these cairns, at a rest stop on the way up to the Kharta Glacier: | He had clearly mastered photography to a greater degree by the time the team reached these cairns, at a rest stop on the way up to the Kharta Glacier: |
The three below are some of the Sherpas who helped the British team ascend the mountain, pictured climbing a ridge. | The three below are some of the Sherpas who helped the British team ascend the mountain, pictured climbing a ridge. |
The accomplished local mountaineers are toting the climbing tools of the age - not to mention the clothing. | The accomplished local mountaineers are toting the climbing tools of the age - not to mention the clothing. |
The British reconnaissance team, which took no oxygen equipment, would be considered dangerously ill-equipped by modern standards. | The British reconnaissance team, which took no oxygen equipment, would be considered dangerously ill-equipped by modern standards. |
Some parts of the trek featured deep snow conditions, as this Mallory snap demonstrates. | Some parts of the trek featured deep snow conditions, as this Mallory snap demonstrates. |
Guy Bullock, who took this picture, captioned it, "George Mallory climbing like a spider". It shows Mallory leading a team up Everest's North Col. | Guy Bullock, who took this picture, captioned it, "George Mallory climbing like a spider". It shows Mallory leading a team up Everest's North Col. |
Charles Howard-Bury, the expedition leader who later became an MP, took this picture from the team's Everest base at 22,500ft - described as "windy Col Camp". | Charles Howard-Bury, the expedition leader who later became an MP, took this picture from the team's Everest base at 22,500ft - described as "windy Col Camp". |
Also immortalised were these Tibetan monks. This arresting picture shows the abbot of Shekar Chote monastery. | Also immortalised were these Tibetan monks. This arresting picture shows the abbot of Shekar Chote monastery. |
This image, another by Mallory, was one of the first ever to capture the snow-capped majesty of Earth's highest mountain range. | This image, another by Mallory, was one of the first ever to capture the snow-capped majesty of Earth's highest mountain range. |
The location was described as, "Camp at 20,000ft - the last day". | The location was described as, "Camp at 20,000ft - the last day". |
This collection of pictures was digitised by the Salto Ulbeek studio in Belgium from the original silver nitrate negatives. | This collection of pictures was digitised by the Salto Ulbeek studio in Belgium from the original silver nitrate negatives. |
They will go on display in a free exhibition - Everest - A reconnaissance - at the Royal Geographical Society (RGS) in London from 29 October. | They will go on display in a free exhibition - Everest - A reconnaissance - at the Royal Geographical Society (RGS) in London from 29 October. |
All images subject to copyright | All images subject to copyright |
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