This article is from the source 'nytimes' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.

You can find the current article at its original source at https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/15/dining/lamb-flatbread-recipe.html

The article has changed 2 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.

Version 0 Version 1
A Taste of Lebanon via Paris A Taste of Lebanon via Paris
(6 days later)
My introduction to Lebanese street food was at an outdoor market in Paris, when I had just moved there in the early days of the 21st century. As I would learn, Lebanese savory treats are common at Parisian markets, a great boon to the hungry shopper.My introduction to Lebanese street food was at an outdoor market in Paris, when I had just moved there in the early days of the 21st century. As I would learn, Lebanese savory treats are common at Parisian markets, a great boon to the hungry shopper.
You get to the market by 10 a.m., when everything is fresh, glistening and appealingly displayed. After perusing the offerings and filling your bag with the produce that will be dinner, you may feel a bit peckish. Then you notice the aroma of little flatbreads wafting from a hot griddle, and you head to the Lebanese stand.You get to the market by 10 a.m., when everything is fresh, glistening and appealingly displayed. After perusing the offerings and filling your bag with the produce that will be dinner, you may feel a bit peckish. Then you notice the aroma of little flatbreads wafting from a hot griddle, and you head to the Lebanese stand.
The typical griddle for baking these flatbreads is a superheated iron dome called a saj. The baker rolls out a thin round of soft dough and quickly slaps it against the hot iron.The typical griddle for baking these flatbreads is a superheated iron dome called a saj. The baker rolls out a thin round of soft dough and quickly slaps it against the hot iron.
The flatbread, flipped once, cooks for a few minutes until lightly browned and pliable. Then, still warm, it is brushed generously with the Middle Eastern spice blend called za’atar, which is mixed with olive oil to make a paste.The flatbread, flipped once, cooks for a few minutes until lightly browned and pliable. Then, still warm, it is brushed generously with the Middle Eastern spice blend called za’atar, which is mixed with olive oil to make a paste.
It is a pleasure to eat one of these breads, called ma’noushe, whether at the market, or on the way home.It is a pleasure to eat one of these breads, called ma’noushe, whether at the market, or on the way home.
An ancient mixture, za’atar normally contains a few types of wild thyme, sumac, sesame seeds and salt. The combination is extremely satisfying: The wild thyme is herbal, the sumac sour and the sesame nutty, and there’s just enough salt to make it the perfect seasoning for any number of ingredients and dishes.An ancient mixture, za’atar normally contains a few types of wild thyme, sumac, sesame seeds and salt. The combination is extremely satisfying: The wild thyme is herbal, the sumac sour and the sesame nutty, and there’s just enough salt to make it the perfect seasoning for any number of ingredients and dishes.
You can find authentic za’atar at Middle Eastern groceries or online spice merchants. (Or make a version at home, using toasted sesame seeds, dried thyme, marjoram and oregano, adding sumac and salt to taste.) The mixture can vary greatly throughout the Levant. Lebanese, Syrian, Jordanian and Israeli za’atar differ in color and pungency, depending on the balance of wild thyme to sumac, and other spices, like cumin or fennel seed, are sometimes added.You can find authentic za’atar at Middle Eastern groceries or online spice merchants. (Or make a version at home, using toasted sesame seeds, dried thyme, marjoram and oregano, adding sumac and salt to taste.) The mixture can vary greatly throughout the Levant. Lebanese, Syrian, Jordanian and Israeli za’atar differ in color and pungency, depending on the balance of wild thyme to sumac, and other spices, like cumin or fennel seed, are sometimes added.
A simple way to enjoy za’atar is sprinkled on fresh bread that has been dipped in fruity olive oil, but it’s easy to make za’atar flatbreads. I call for baking them on a sheet pan, but you could use a pizza stone or hot cast-iron skillet, or cook them on a charcoal grill.A simple way to enjoy za’atar is sprinkled on fresh bread that has been dipped in fruity olive oil, but it’s easy to make za’atar flatbreads. I call for baking them on a sheet pan, but you could use a pizza stone or hot cast-iron skillet, or cook them on a charcoal grill.
For a grander version without much more effort, you can make a meaty topping with spiced ground lamb that is briefly cooked with sautéed onions. Baked on a za’atar-dabbed dough with crumbled feta and a few pine nuts, it’s a bit more pizza-like.For a grander version without much more effort, you can make a meaty topping with spiced ground lamb that is briefly cooked with sautéed onions. Baked on a za’atar-dabbed dough with crumbled feta and a few pine nuts, it’s a bit more pizza-like.
As your kitchen fills with the scent of savory baking, you can daydream about a trip to Beirut, with a stopover in Paris.As your kitchen fills with the scent of savory baking, you can daydream about a trip to Beirut, with a stopover in Paris.
Recipe: Lamb Flatbread With Za’atarRecipe: Lamb Flatbread With Za’atar
This savory Middle Eastern dish calls for a juicy red with lively acidity, which will both refresh and cleanse the palate after each sip. Any number of wines match this description, starting with old favorites like Beaujolais or barberas from the Piedmont region of Italy. You could try a younger Rioja, labeled crianza, a less-expensive Ribeira Sacra from northwestern Spain or a Portuguese red from the Bairrada region. You could also try some of the fascinating wines from the Canary Islands. Don’t want a red? Dry rosés will go well with this dish. Try any from the Mediterranean. For a radical departure, why not a good retsina? This traditional Greek wine, flavored with pine resin, exists to go with food like this. ERIC ASIMOV
Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.