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Diary: The road to Bethlehem Diary: The road to Bethlehem
(about 1 hour later)
BBC correspondent Aleem Maqbool keeps an online diary in text and video as he walks from Nazareth to Bethlehem, retracing a journey made by Joseph and Mary in the Christmas story told by Luke the Evangelist. TUESDAY, 16 DECEMBER: MOKEBLE The morning began with a beautiful walk, but ended with a stark reminder that this trail takes us through what remains a conflict zone that impacts on people's lives every day. BBC correspondent Aleem Maqbool keeps an online diary in text and video as he walks from Nazareth to Bethlehem, retracing a journey made by Joseph and Mary in the Christmas story told by Luke the Evangelist. TUESDAY, 16 DECEMBER: MOKEBLE Advertisement
The journey ends sooner than expected for Aleem's donkey
The morning began with a beautiful walk, but ended with a stark reminder that this trail takes us through what remains a conflict zone that impacts on people's lives every day.
The final few kilometres to the checkpoint took us past small communities, again, divided into those which were predominantly Jewish, and those that had a mix of Christians and Muslims, like the village of Mokeble, the last stop before the barrier that separates Israel from the West Bank.The final few kilometres to the checkpoint took us past small communities, again, divided into those which were predominantly Jewish, and those that had a mix of Christians and Muslims, like the village of Mokeble, the last stop before the barrier that separates Israel from the West Bank.
Two donkeys down, I crossed into the West Bank alone There, I got talking to Adala, a teacher, who was keen to show off the Christmas tree in her school hall. She said that since the barrier had been put up, her husband had been separated from his brothers and sisters who were in a village a few hundred metres on the Palestinian side.Two donkeys down, I crossed into the West Bank alone There, I got talking to Adala, a teacher, who was keen to show off the Christmas tree in her school hall. She said that since the barrier had been put up, her husband had been separated from his brothers and sisters who were in a village a few hundred metres on the Palestinian side.
She said they could no longer come to visit him, but that her and her husband, as Israeli ID card holders, could sometimes cross the other way into the West Bank if the checkpoint was open.She said they could no longer come to visit him, but that her and her husband, as Israeli ID card holders, could sometimes cross the other way into the West Bank if the checkpoint was open.
After a wait at the checkpoint, I was happy to be told that I would be allowed to pass. However, the Israeli authorities informed us that our donkey did not have the correct paperwork. Donkey number two would have to be left behind.After a wait at the checkpoint, I was happy to be told that I would be allowed to pass. However, the Israeli authorities informed us that our donkey did not have the correct paperwork. Donkey number two would have to be left behind.
I would like to think her stubborn resistance to getting into the animal trailer was because she wanted to stay with me. However, I have a feeling it was more the prospect of a bumpy ride home.I would like to think her stubborn resistance to getting into the animal trailer was because she wanted to stay with me. However, I have a feeling it was more the prospect of a bumpy ride home.
For those Palestinian farmers in the West Bank who have land on the "wrong side" of the barrier (in many places it runs well inside West Bank, leaving Palestinian land outside), such bureaucracy can really impact on working life. Many farmers have given up tending their land in these circumstances.For those Palestinian farmers in the West Bank who have land on the "wrong side" of the barrier (in many places it runs well inside West Bank, leaving Palestinian land outside), such bureaucracy can really impact on working life. Many farmers have given up tending their land in these circumstances.
Two donkeys down, I crossed into the West Bank alone.Two donkeys down, I crossed into the West Bank alone.
Jihad Nawahda was killed during a raid in the village of al-Yamon The Israeli government says the barrier, and the checkpoints, are necessary for the security of its citizens - to keep potential Palestinian bombers out. It is one of the main reasons given for the massive decrease in the number of suicide bombings in Israel.Jihad Nawahda was killed during a raid in the village of al-Yamon The Israeli government says the barrier, and the checkpoints, are necessary for the security of its citizens - to keep potential Palestinian bombers out. It is one of the main reasons given for the massive decrease in the number of suicide bombings in Israel.
But the Israeli army has also arrested and killed hundreds of people it suspects of militancy, in regular raids on West Bank towns and cities.But the Israeli army has also arrested and killed hundreds of people it suspects of militancy, in regular raids on West Bank towns and cities.
On the news of one such raid, on a village close to the border crossing, I decided to take a detour.On the news of one such raid, on a village close to the border crossing, I decided to take a detour.
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Funeral for a Palestinian man allegedly killed in an Israeli raidFuneral for a Palestinian man allegedly killed in an Israeli raid
The raid was over, and the army had gone. They had killed a 22-year-old man, Jihad Nawahda. We were told he was a local leader of the Islamic Jihad militant group and had been wanted by the Israeli army for some time.The raid was over, and the army had gone. They had killed a 22-year-old man, Jihad Nawahda. We were told he was a local leader of the Islamic Jihad militant group and had been wanted by the Israeli army for some time.
Funeral prayers had already been carried out, and by the time I arrived, hundreds of men escorted the body to the cemetery for immediate burial, in accordance with Muslim tradition. A few black and yellow Islamic Jihad flags were carried in silence by the mourners.Funeral prayers had already been carried out, and by the time I arrived, hundreds of men escorted the body to the cemetery for immediate burial, in accordance with Muslim tradition. A few black and yellow Islamic Jihad flags were carried in silence by the mourners.
I headed back to continue on my way to Jenin. EVENING, MONDAY, 15 DECEMBER: AFULAI headed back to continue on my way to Jenin. EVENING, MONDAY, 15 DECEMBER: AFULA
This was never supposed to be about the donkey, but it dictated the first leg of this journey to such an extent that I cannot start my diary anywhere else.This was never supposed to be about the donkey, but it dictated the first leg of this journey to such an extent that I cannot start my diary anywhere else.
Cynthia's lack of commitment brought an end to her part in the journeyThis morning, Cynthia, the animal I had met and tried to build trust with, decided she did not fancy walking a single step out of her village.Cynthia's lack of commitment brought an end to her part in the journeyThis morning, Cynthia, the animal I had met and tried to build trust with, decided she did not fancy walking a single step out of her village.
She may have been put off by the heavy traffic on the roads leading to the centre of Nazareth, so rather than force her, we opted for another donkey, with no name.She may have been put off by the heavy traffic on the roads leading to the centre of Nazareth, so rather than force her, we opted for another donkey, with no name.
It soon became clear that, unlike towns in the Gaza Strip or northern West Bank, donkeys are no longer a common sight in Nazareth.It soon became clear that, unlike towns in the Gaza Strip or northern West Bank, donkeys are no longer a common sight in Nazareth.
Children and adults alike were drawn to ours and came over to pet her, admire her and even, in one case, spend rather a long time chatting to her, as she happily munched on her sack of hay outside the Church of the Annunciation.Children and adults alike were drawn to ours and came over to pet her, admire her and even, in one case, spend rather a long time chatting to her, as she happily munched on her sack of hay outside the Church of the Annunciation.
When we eventually began on our way south, cars slowed down as people shouted greetings through the window.When we eventually began on our way south, cars slowed down as people shouted greetings through the window.
"You going to Bethlehem then," one woman joked in Arabic. It was impossible for me to reply as I tried to control an animal that was, at that stage, undoubtedly controlling me."You going to Bethlehem then," one woman joked in Arabic. It was impossible for me to reply as I tried to control an animal that was, at that stage, undoubtedly controlling me.
Here, there was relative peace, and just a hint of those biblical landscapes.Here, there was relative peace, and just a hint of those biblical landscapes.
Progress was slow down the slopes of Nazareth, as my travelling companion felt the magnetic pull of anything green and leafy to chew on.Progress was slow down the slopes of Nazareth, as my travelling companion felt the magnetic pull of anything green and leafy to chew on.
It was not until we reached Balfurya, an Israeli community named after the Earl of Balfour - who in 1917, as foreign secretary, declared British government backing to the idea of a Jewish homeland in historic Palestine - that I felt the donkey and I finally reached an understanding.It was not until we reached Balfurya, an Israeli community named after the Earl of Balfour - who in 1917, as foreign secretary, declared British government backing to the idea of a Jewish homeland in historic Palestine - that I felt the donkey and I finally reached an understanding.
It was thanks mainly to the sage words of the donkey's usual handler, Munder. "Walk as if you are strong and know where you are going and she will feel happy." It seemed to work.It was thanks mainly to the sage words of the donkey's usual handler, Munder. "Walk as if you are strong and know where you are going and she will feel happy." It seemed to work.
However, by that stage, so much of the day had been spent learning to deal with these donkey dramas, that I had taken in little of my surroundings, spoken to few people, and was well behind schedule.However, by that stage, so much of the day had been spent learning to deal with these donkey dramas, that I had taken in little of my surroundings, spoken to few people, and was well behind schedule.
Donkeys are no longer a common sight in NazarethI am afraid I called Munder to take the still rather slow donkey off my hands for a few hours so I could walk to the Israel-West Bank border myself by nightfall.Donkeys are no longer a common sight in NazarethI am afraid I called Munder to take the still rather slow donkey off my hands for a few hours so I could walk to the Israel-West Bank border myself by nightfall.
Waking through the predominantly Jewish town of Afula, it was striking just how different it was from the heart of Nazareth, just 15km or so earlier.Waking through the predominantly Jewish town of Afula, it was striking just how different it was from the heart of Nazareth, just 15km or so earlier.
I had heard Hebrew spoken in one, Arabic in the other; church bells and calls to prayer in one, neither in the other; and seen Israeli flags fluttering from houses of only one of them.I had heard Hebrew spoken in one, Arabic in the other; church bells and calls to prayer in one, neither in the other; and seen Israeli flags fluttering from houses of only one of them.
It was only after Afula, when I got to stride out over fields towards the border on my own, that I can say there was anything spiritual about Day One of this Mary and Joseph trek.It was only after Afula, when I got to stride out over fields towards the border on my own, that I can say there was anything spiritual about Day One of this Mary and Joseph trek.
Here, there was relative peace, and just a hint of those biblical landscapes.Here, there was relative peace, and just a hint of those biblical landscapes.
I am staying in a chalet next to a dairy farm overnight - now reunited with donkey - before heading to the Jalama military checkpoint a few kilometres away, in the morning, where we are hoping the Israeli army will let us into the West Bank. MORNING, MONDAY, 15 DECEMBER: NAZARETHI am staying in a chalet next to a dairy farm overnight - now reunited with donkey - before heading to the Jalama military checkpoint a few kilometres away, in the morning, where we are hoping the Israeli army will let us into the West Bank. MORNING, MONDAY, 15 DECEMBER: NAZARETH
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The road to Bethlehem: Day oneThe road to Bethlehem: Day one
I am due to start where tradition has it that Mary and Joseph started. Two thousand years ago, Nazareth is thought to have been a tiny agricultural hamlet.I am due to start where tradition has it that Mary and Joseph started. Two thousand years ago, Nazareth is thought to have been a tiny agricultural hamlet.
Now, the remains of what many people believe to be Mary's home are enshrined in a massive basilica.Now, the remains of what many people believe to be Mary's home are enshrined in a massive basilica.
A little way up the hill, another church houses the excavated ruins of what was thought to be Joseph's carpentry workshop.A little way up the hill, another church houses the excavated ruins of what was thought to be Joseph's carpentry workshop.
My guide, Najib, proudly told me that St Joseph's had always been his local church, and the place where he was baptised.My guide, Najib, proudly told me that St Joseph's had always been his local church, and the place where he was baptised.
Nazareth is thought to have remained mainly Christian until 1948. Then it took in a massive influx of refugees, as people from surrounding Arabs towns (mainly Muslims) fled, or were forced out of their homes, when the state of Israel was created.Nazareth is thought to have remained mainly Christian until 1948. Then it took in a massive influx of refugees, as people from surrounding Arabs towns (mainly Muslims) fled, or were forced out of their homes, when the state of Israel was created.
While a lot of the people that live here now are happy to be called "Arab Israelis", many of even the younger generations identify themselves as Palestinian.While a lot of the people that live here now are happy to be called "Arab Israelis", many of even the younger generations identify themselves as Palestinian.
People in a kebab shop on the main street told me that a lot of young people are choosing to move away.People in a kebab shop on the main street told me that a lot of young people are choosing to move away.
Fitness concernsFitness concerns
Tourism to Nazareth, and employment here, suffered greatly in the early part of this decade, with an upsurge in the conflict.Tourism to Nazareth, and employment here, suffered greatly in the early part of this decade, with an upsurge in the conflict.
News of the frequent bomb attacks around Israel, and retaliatory military action, caused many potential pilgrims to think twice about their trip.News of the frequent bomb attacks around Israel, and retaliatory military action, caused many potential pilgrims to think twice about their trip.
Now, the suicide bombings have become relatively rare, and the tourism industry is slowly picking up again, but this remains, of course, an unpredictable region.Now, the suicide bombings have become relatively rare, and the tourism industry is slowly picking up again, but this remains, of course, an unpredictable region.
It is close to the Church of the Annunciation - where many Christians believe the angel, Gabriel, appeared to Mary in her home - that I have arranged to meet Cynthia, the donkey.It is close to the Church of the Annunciation - where many Christians believe the angel, Gabriel, appeared to Mary in her home - that I have arranged to meet Cynthia, the donkey.
From there, the two of us will head south (mainly downhill, thankfully) to the town of Afula, towards the Israeli checkpoint that I hope to cross into the West Bank, on Day Two.From there, the two of us will head south (mainly downhill, thankfully) to the town of Afula, towards the Israeli checkpoint that I hope to cross into the West Bank, on Day Two.
I am worried about my fitness... 150km in 10 days suddenly seems like quite a lot.I am worried about my fitness... 150km in 10 days suddenly seems like quite a lot.
However, I have a had a final read of Luke's Gospel (though it is thin on details about the journey), and have downloaded the rest of the New Testament onto my mp3 player, so feel ready to hit the road.However, I have a had a final read of Luke's Gospel (though it is thin on details about the journey), and have downloaded the rest of the New Testament onto my mp3 player, so feel ready to hit the road.