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| Part II: The road to Bethlehem | Part II: The road to Bethlehem |
| (29 minutes later) | |
| BBC correspondent Aleem Maqbool is walking from Nazareth to Bethlehem, retracing a journey made by Joseph and Mary in the Christmas story told by Luke the Evangelist. Here is part two of his online diary, beginning in al Fara refugee camp. | |
| Read part one of the diary | Read part one of the diary |
| EVENING, THURSDAY, 18 DECEMBER: AL FAR'A REFUGEE CAMP Away from traffic, in swathes of tranquillity Today was one of the legs of the trek I had been looking forward to the most, and it did not disappoint. | |
| As the village of Zababdeh started to come to life, I met two people who would accompany me and my donkey through the hills and valleys for the coming hours. | As the village of Zababdeh started to come to life, I met two people who would accompany me and my donkey through the hills and valleys for the coming hours. |
| Nedal Sawalmeh would be my guide for two days. George Rishmawi is passionate about walking through the region and has done extensive research into biblical sites here: two Palestinian friends, united by a very apparent love of the land. | Nedal Sawalmeh would be my guide for two days. George Rishmawi is passionate about walking through the region and has done extensive research into biblical sites here: two Palestinian friends, united by a very apparent love of the land. |
| "We're following caravan routes from thousands of years ago," said George. "Walking here and speaking to people we meet on our way is the only way to understand this place." | "We're following caravan routes from thousands of years ago," said George. "Walking here and speaking to people we meet on our way is the only way to understand this place." |
| Roll on, day five!So we did; an elderly shepherd leaning forward on his wooden stick as he sat on a rocky outcrop on a hilltop; the six boys from the refugee camp who had walked for miles to collect the potatoes left behind in the fields after the harvest; the old lady in traditional Palestinian dress, hanging her washing out, who was curious about the new faces going through her village. | Roll on, day five!So we did; an elderly shepherd leaning forward on his wooden stick as he sat on a rocky outcrop on a hilltop; the six boys from the refugee camp who had walked for miles to collect the potatoes left behind in the fields after the harvest; the old lady in traditional Palestinian dress, hanging her washing out, who was curious about the new faces going through her village. |
| In between were vast swathes of tranquil, seemingly untouched, countryside. There was a period during the day when we did not see a road, let alone a car, for well over three hours, something I had not been sure was possible in the West Bank. | In between were vast swathes of tranquil, seemingly untouched, countryside. There was a period during the day when we did not see a road, let alone a car, for well over three hours, something I had not been sure was possible in the West Bank. |
| On one ridge, beside a pine forest, I am certain that, several times, the donkey paused and lifted its head high to admire the view. | On one ridge, beside a pine forest, I am certain that, several times, the donkey paused and lifted its head high to admire the view. |
| Of course, we talked of the political situation and the conflict, but both Nedal and George would happily break off to talk extensively about unusual trees we passed, point out remnants of Canaanite villages, or explain why a farm was laid out in the way it was. | Of course, we talked of the political situation and the conflict, but both Nedal and George would happily break off to talk extensively about unusual trees we passed, point out remnants of Canaanite villages, or explain why a farm was laid out in the way it was. |
| By late afternoon, we reached Nedal's home in Al Far'a (where I would spend the night), and parted company with George. | By late afternoon, we reached Nedal's home in Al Far'a (where I would spend the night), and parted company with George. |
| Around 60 years ago, Al Far'a camp started life as a collection of tents housing some of those Palestinians who had fled, or been forced out of their homes in the year Israel was created. | Around 60 years ago, Al Far'a camp started life as a collection of tents housing some of those Palestinians who had fled, or been forced out of their homes in the year Israel was created. |
| The journey is a lesson in history and geographyBut as time has gone on, there is much more of an air of permanency about this, and all of the other refugee camps in the West Bank, which now look like slightly haphazard, squat, concrete towns. | The journey is a lesson in history and geographyBut as time has gone on, there is much more of an air of permanency about this, and all of the other refugee camps in the West Bank, which now look like slightly haphazard, squat, concrete towns. |
| Nedal's home is cosy, and brought to life by his six children. | Nedal's home is cosy, and brought to life by his six children. |
| If my diary entry is a bit late it is because I have been having an engaging (if unintelligible) conversation with a 13-month-old, while the entire contents of my radio recording and broadcasting kit have been systematically displayed around the living room by a seven and 10-year-old, who also demanded an explanation of each component. | If my diary entry is a bit late it is because I have been having an engaging (if unintelligible) conversation with a 13-month-old, while the entire contents of my radio recording and broadcasting kit have been systematically displayed around the living room by a seven and 10-year-old, who also demanded an explanation of each component. |
| Earlier, Nedal's eldest son, Abed, who is 15, thoughtfully gave me the gift of an mp3 file on my arrival. It is a song by a rapper from Jenin, Abu Hattah, called "Weyn Ehmaray?"â¦.."Where's my Donkey?" | Earlier, Nedal's eldest son, Abed, who is 15, thoughtfully gave me the gift of an mp3 file on my arrival. It is a song by a rapper from Jenin, Abu Hattah, called "Weyn Ehmaray?"â¦.."Where's my Donkey?" |
| Roll on, day five. | Roll on, day five. |