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As Coronavirus Slams Small Business, a Noodle Shop Fights for Life | As Coronavirus Slams Small Business, a Noodle Shop Fights for Life |
(3 days later) | |
BEIJING — The stone counters where customers normally crowd at Pang Mei’s Noodle Shop in Beijing have been turned into an assembly line of workers folding dumplings or measuring out noodles, sauces and other ingredients into plastic containers. | BEIJING — The stone counters where customers normally crowd at Pang Mei’s Noodle Shop in Beijing have been turned into an assembly line of workers folding dumplings or measuring out noodles, sauces and other ingredients into plastic containers. |
The restaurant has been closed to the public for more than a month. Its customers, like all Beijingers, have been all but ordered to stay at home and avoid any public gatherings. | The restaurant has been closed to the public for more than a month. Its customers, like all Beijingers, have been all but ordered to stay at home and avoid any public gatherings. |
Its owners are trying to make up for the loss in business with an improvised delivery menu of boil-it-yourself noodles — with only a little success. | Its owners are trying to make up for the loss in business with an improvised delivery menu of boil-it-yourself noodles — with only a little success. |
“I mean, now, we’re not really making any profits,” said one of the owners, Du Tianqi. | “I mean, now, we’re not really making any profits,” said one of the owners, Du Tianqi. |
The coronavirus epidemic, which has infected more than 82,000 people and spread to at least 48 countries, has rattled markets globally and disrupted business for some of the biggest corporations in the world. It is also ravaging smaller businesses in Beijing and other cities in China that do not have the resources to endure an economic crisis that has yet to ease its grip. | The coronavirus epidemic, which has infected more than 82,000 people and spread to at least 48 countries, has rattled markets globally and disrupted business for some of the biggest corporations in the world. It is also ravaging smaller businesses in Beijing and other cities in China that do not have the resources to endure an economic crisis that has yet to ease its grip. |
They include corner markets, bookstores, barbershops, bars, restaurants and cafes — all the places that are essential to a vibrant urban society, and a huge source of employment. The country’s 80 million “household” businesses employ more than 200 million people, government officials say. Small and medium-size businesses make up over half of the country’s economic output. | They include corner markets, bookstores, barbershops, bars, restaurants and cafes — all the places that are essential to a vibrant urban society, and a huge source of employment. The country’s 80 million “household” businesses employ more than 200 million people, government officials say. Small and medium-size businesses make up over half of the country’s economic output. |
The Chinese government must now balance its drive to stop the outbreak — and, by extension, salvage its political credibility — with its need to get the economy moving again. | The Chinese government must now balance its drive to stop the outbreak — and, by extension, salvage its political credibility — with its need to get the economy moving again. |
Recognizing the threat, an emergency task force led by China’s premier, Li Keqiang, on Tuesday pledged support for the country’s small and medium-size businesses, including a deferral of pension, health and housing payments and promises to lower rents and interests on loans. | Recognizing the threat, an emergency task force led by China’s premier, Li Keqiang, on Tuesday pledged support for the country’s small and medium-size businesses, including a deferral of pension, health and housing payments and promises to lower rents and interests on loans. |
Beijing’s restaurants and cafes have been hit particularly hard. A survey commissioned by the Beijing Catering Industry Association and posted this week found that nearly 70 percent of them remain closed in the city, which has slowed to an eerie crawl. | Beijing’s restaurants and cafes have been hit particularly hard. A survey commissioned by the Beijing Catering Industry Association and posted this week found that nearly 70 percent of them remain closed in the city, which has slowed to an eerie crawl. |
They have been hampered not only by a staggering drop in customers, but also by the difficulty of procuring supplies and getting workers back to the city from holiday travels that were supposed to have ended nearly a month ago. | They have been hampered not only by a staggering drop in customers, but also by the difficulty of procuring supplies and getting workers back to the city from holiday travels that were supposed to have ended nearly a month ago. |
The industry survey estimated that the cost to the restaurant and catering industry across the country had already reached $85 billion. It called the epidemic the industry’s Waterloo, after the final defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1815, and warned that enterprises with insufficient cash flow or popularity would likely never reopen. | The industry survey estimated that the cost to the restaurant and catering industry across the country had already reached $85 billion. It called the epidemic the industry’s Waterloo, after the final defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1815, and warned that enterprises with insufficient cash flow or popularity would likely never reopen. |
“Yes,” said Ms. Du, “there will be a lot that can’t survive.” | “Yes,” said Ms. Du, “there will be a lot that can’t survive.” |
Pang Mei’s Noodle Shop opened in 2015 in one of Beijing’s distinctive alleyways known as hutongs, offering pungent, chili-soaked noodles in the style of Chongqing, the city in central China. It is an offshoot of a chain from Chongqing owned by a cousin of Ms. Du’s husband, Yuan Jie, and has won a devoted following. (A year after it opened, Eater included it as one of 38 “essential Beijing restaurants.”) | Pang Mei’s Noodle Shop opened in 2015 in one of Beijing’s distinctive alleyways known as hutongs, offering pungent, chili-soaked noodles in the style of Chongqing, the city in central China. It is an offshoot of a chain from Chongqing owned by a cousin of Ms. Du’s husband, Yuan Jie, and has won a devoted following. (A year after it opened, Eater included it as one of 38 “essential Beijing restaurants.”) |
In the last days before the Lunar New Year holiday in January, Ms. Du recalled in an interview, she felt anxious as she worked the register. The first worrisome reports of the coronavirus were emanating from Wuhan, she said, referring to the city now recognized as the center of the outbreak. The regular crowd was “very much at ease, happily slurping noodles.” | In the last days before the Lunar New Year holiday in January, Ms. Du recalled in an interview, she felt anxious as she worked the register. The first worrisome reports of the coronavirus were emanating from Wuhan, she said, referring to the city now recognized as the center of the outbreak. The regular crowd was “very much at ease, happily slurping noodles.” |
“People did not really take it seriously,” Ms. Du, 34, said. That was five weeks ago. | “People did not really take it seriously,” Ms. Du, 34, said. That was five weeks ago. |
Like most small shops and restaurants in Beijing, the couple planned to close for the holiday and reopen on Feb. 6. But the epidemic, and the government’s efforts to contain it, had ripple effects that disrupted the restaurant’s supply of spices and peppers from Chongqing. | Like most small shops and restaurants in Beijing, the couple planned to close for the holiday and reopen on Feb. 6. But the epidemic, and the government’s efforts to contain it, had ripple effects that disrupted the restaurant’s supply of spices and peppers from Chongqing. |
The ones in Beijing are “not as flavorful,” Ms. Du explained. In any case, many of the city’s markets also closed. “We didn’t even have the very basic seasonings.” | The ones in Beijing are “not as flavorful,” Ms. Du explained. In any case, many of the city’s markets also closed. “We didn’t even have the very basic seasonings.” |
By Feb. 14, they had cobbled together a new supply chain. It was enough to offer a reduced menu of ready-to-cook noodles and dumplings for delivery, complete with instructions for people to finish the dish at home. (Noodles, she said, are best eaten immediately after being cooked and would suffer unconscionably from the time it would take to deliver them.) | By Feb. 14, they had cobbled together a new supply chain. It was enough to offer a reduced menu of ready-to-cook noodles and dumplings for delivery, complete with instructions for people to finish the dish at home. (Noodles, she said, are best eaten immediately after being cooked and would suffer unconscionably from the time it would take to deliver them.) |
The crisis has defied conventional wisdom that the epidemic would mean a boon for delivery services. According to the industry association’s survey, food deliveries have also plummeted — in part because too few drivers of the ubiquitous scooters have been able to return to work, and in part because customers do not seem to want any contact with strangers zipping around town. | The crisis has defied conventional wisdom that the epidemic would mean a boon for delivery services. According to the industry association’s survey, food deliveries have also plummeted — in part because too few drivers of the ubiquitous scooters have been able to return to work, and in part because customers do not seem to want any contact with strangers zipping around town. |
Updated July 7, 2020 | |
The coronavirus can stay aloft for hours in tiny droplets in stagnant air, infecting people as they inhale, mounting scientific evidence suggests. This risk is highest in crowded indoor spaces with poor ventilation, and may help explain super-spreading events reported in meatpacking plants, churches and restaurants. It’s unclear how often the virus is spread via these tiny droplets, or aerosols, compared with larger droplets that are expelled when a sick person coughs or sneezes, or transmitted through contact with contaminated surfaces, said Linsey Marr, an aerosol expert at Virginia Tech. Aerosols are released even when a person without symptoms exhales, talks or sings, according to Dr. Marr and more than 200 other experts, who have outlined the evidence in an open letter to the World Health Organization. | |
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. | Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. |
Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles. | Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles. |
A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico. | A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico. |
The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth. | The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth. |
The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave. | The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave. |
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. | So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. |
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. | Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. |
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. | A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. |
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) | If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) |
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. | If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. |
Ms. Du said the restaurant’s revenues were now only a third of what they had been. That has already forced them to reduce costs. They normally have 20 employees, but only eight have resumed work. She handles the online orders through WeChat, China’s messaging and mobile payment app, on her computer. Her husband, who is also a pop singer, fries the peppers in a warehouse in another part of the city. | Ms. Du said the restaurant’s revenues were now only a third of what they had been. That has already forced them to reduce costs. They normally have 20 employees, but only eight have resumed work. She handles the online orders through WeChat, China’s messaging and mobile payment app, on her computer. Her husband, who is also a pop singer, fries the peppers in a warehouse in another part of the city. |
In Beijing, the municipal government has issued conflicting guidance. Officials encouraged restaurants to remain open, for example, even while encouraging people to avoid public spaces. This week, the city announced a rule requiring people to sit at least one meter, or more than three feet, apart and not face each other while eating — something that would be all but impossible in a place like Pang Mei’s. | In Beijing, the municipal government has issued conflicting guidance. Officials encouraged restaurants to remain open, for example, even while encouraging people to avoid public spaces. This week, the city announced a rule requiring people to sit at least one meter, or more than three feet, apart and not face each other while eating — something that would be all but impossible in a place like Pang Mei’s. |
Ms. Du said she had not yet heard of any potential government assistance she could tap, though she keeps in touch with others in the industry, comparing notes. She worries about meeting rent and loan payments. | Ms. Du said she had not yet heard of any potential government assistance she could tap, though she keeps in touch with others in the industry, comparing notes. She worries about meeting rent and loan payments. |
Until the coronavirus emerged, business had been booming, after a complete renovation that coincided with a campaign to refurbish Beijing’s hutongs. The old wooden slats hung on the wall that described the day’s dishes — which would be removed when ingredients were exhausted — have been replaced with new plastic ones. | Until the coronavirus emerged, business had been booming, after a complete renovation that coincided with a campaign to refurbish Beijing’s hutongs. The old wooden slats hung on the wall that described the day’s dishes — which would be removed when ingredients were exhausted — have been replaced with new plastic ones. |
Some owners that Ms. Du knows have already given up, including a Japanese restaurant nearby. She is hoping that a loyal fan base, and the craving for the distinctive flavor of Chongqing noodles, will get them through the epidemic. | Some owners that Ms. Du knows have already given up, including a Japanese restaurant nearby. She is hoping that a loyal fan base, and the craving for the distinctive flavor of Chongqing noodles, will get them through the epidemic. |
As a worker filled a plastic bag with the makings of xiao mian, one of Chongqing’s signature noodle dishes, she confided that a famous singer had placed that order. Many customers even seem to enjoy the novelty of boiling and assembling their own bowls of noodles, sending Ms. Du photographs of their results. | As a worker filled a plastic bag with the makings of xiao mian, one of Chongqing’s signature noodle dishes, she confided that a famous singer had placed that order. Many customers even seem to enjoy the novelty of boiling and assembling their own bowls of noodles, sending Ms. Du photographs of their results. |
A local brewery has also asked about joining forces and including its beer in deliveries. “They gave us a very detailed proposal of cooperation that I couldn’t say no to,” she said. “This is a very special period of time. Everyone is just trying to survive by huddling for warmth together.” | A local brewery has also asked about joining forces and including its beer in deliveries. “They gave us a very detailed proposal of cooperation that I couldn’t say no to,” she said. “This is a very special period of time. Everyone is just trying to survive by huddling for warmth together.” |
She does not expect to reopen fully until the end of March at the soonest, but is trying to remain optimistic. “At the end of the day,” she said, “people always need to eat.” | She does not expect to reopen fully until the end of March at the soonest, but is trying to remain optimistic. “At the end of the day,” she said, “people always need to eat.” |
Zoe Mou and Claire Fu contributed research. | Zoe Mou and Claire Fu contributed research. |