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‘It's like a meteorite has fallen on us’: Madrid empties as coronavirus spreads ‘It's like a meteorite has fallen on us’: Madrid empties as coronavirus spreads
(about 1 hour later)
Once bustling Spanish capital falls silent as tourist numbers dwindle and lockdown loomsOnce bustling Spanish capital falls silent as tourist numbers dwindle and lockdown looms
August has come early to Madrid. This March, a month when the warm spring weather would usually compel the shedding of hats and scarves and the return of tables and chairs to pavements outside bars and cafes, the coronavirus has forced the capital on to a high-summer footing.August has come early to Madrid. This March, a month when the warm spring weather would usually compel the shedding of hats and scarves and the return of tables and chairs to pavements outside bars and cafes, the coronavirus has forced the capital on to a high-summer footing.
As in August, schools and shops are closed and the city is quiet. But Madrileños have not abandoned the capital for the mountains or the coast, and the suddenly loud birdsong owes less to an absence of human activity than to the fact much of it is now having to take place behind closed doors.As in August, schools and shops are closed and the city is quiet. But Madrileños have not abandoned the capital for the mountains or the coast, and the suddenly loud birdsong owes less to an absence of human activity than to the fact much of it is now having to take place behind closed doors.
By Friday morning, Spain had confirmed 3,754 cases of the coronavirus – 2,000 of them in and around the capital – and the mayor of Madrid had called for the closure of cafe terraces and shuttered children’s play areas. He warned that a lockdown of the city could not be ruled out. On Friday morning, hours before the government announced the declaration of a two-week state of emergency, Madrid’s mayor had called for the closure of cafe terraces and shuttered children’s play areas. He warned that a lockdown of the city could not be ruled out.
Face masks and gloves are becoming occasional accessories on the Madrid metro. Many of the capital’s Chinese-run grocery shops and bazaars have paused trading through fear of contagion and a slump in shopper numbers, while supermarkets are enjoying a roaring trade as families stock up on food to see them through a school closure scheduled – in theory at least – to last a fortnight.Face masks and gloves are becoming occasional accessories on the Madrid metro. Many of the capital’s Chinese-run grocery shops and bazaars have paused trading through fear of contagion and a slump in shopper numbers, while supermarkets are enjoying a roaring trade as families stock up on food to see them through a school closure scheduled – in theory at least – to last a fortnight.
The city’s big cultural draws are out of bounds to locals and visitors, with the Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza musuems closing their doors until further notice.The city’s big cultural draws are out of bounds to locals and visitors, with the Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza musuems closing their doors until further notice.
In place of the habitual crowds outside the Prado on Thursday afternoon lounged a handful of people and four police officers mooching around their patrol cars.In place of the habitual crowds outside the Prado on Thursday afternoon lounged a handful of people and four police officers mooching around their patrol cars.
A stall-holder who has made his living selling pictures in gaudy frames opposite the museum for the past 20 years had decided to call it a day by 4.45pm.A stall-holder who has made his living selling pictures in gaudy frames opposite the museum for the past 20 years had decided to call it a day by 4.45pm.
“The number of tourists has dropped by half since they closed the museum,” he said. Still, he added, the situation would improve eventually. “All this will pass and things will be OK again. The situation will change.”“The number of tourists has dropped by half since they closed the museum,” he said. Still, he added, the situation would improve eventually. “All this will pass and things will be OK again. The situation will change.”
Gran Vía, one of the city’s main thoroughfares, was far quieter than usual, its normally bustling McDonald’s decidedly calm.Gran Vía, one of the city’s main thoroughfares, was far quieter than usual, its normally bustling McDonald’s decidedly calm.
A few minutes’ walk away, the Puerta del Sol – famed for its Tio Pepe sherry sign and as the focus for Madrid’s New Year’s Eve festivities – still echoed with the sound of the odd wheelie case, but the mood was subdued and the individuals in animal and Disney costumes appeared to have gone home in the absence of tourists with whom to pose for pictures.A few minutes’ walk away, the Puerta del Sol – famed for its Tio Pepe sherry sign and as the focus for Madrid’s New Year’s Eve festivities – still echoed with the sound of the odd wheelie case, but the mood was subdued and the individuals in animal and Disney costumes appeared to have gone home in the absence of tourists with whom to pose for pictures.
As the pandemic stretches on, the mixed metaphors of the hotel owner’s association do not seem all that far-fetched. “A tsunami has arrived,” Ramón Estalella of the Confederation of Spanish Hotels told Reuters on Thursday. “A meteorite has fallen on us and we have to see how we survive.”As the pandemic stretches on, the mixed metaphors of the hotel owner’s association do not seem all that far-fetched. “A tsunami has arrived,” Ramón Estalella of the Confederation of Spanish Hotels told Reuters on Thursday. “A meteorite has fallen on us and we have to see how we survive.”
His bleak appraisal was endorsed by someone who knows a thing or two about intergalactic peril. As he wandered, a little disconsolately, down Calle Preciados, Buzz Lightyear – or rather the young Peruvian man inside the costume – offered his thoughts.His bleak appraisal was endorsed by someone who knows a thing or two about intergalactic peril. As he wandered, a little disconsolately, down Calle Preciados, Buzz Lightyear – or rather the young Peruvian man inside the costume – offered his thoughts.
“Business has gone down a lot,” he said. “It started to drop off about two weeks ago. The tourists have gone away and now it’s just Madrileños. I used to work from 5pm til 10pm, and earn about €40 or €50. But I’ve been working since 9am today and I’ve only made €5.”“Business has gone down a lot,” he said. “It started to drop off about two weeks ago. The tourists have gone away and now it’s just Madrileños. I used to work from 5pm til 10pm, and earn about €40 or €50. But I’ve been working since 9am today and I’ve only made €5.”
The idea of coming to Spain, he added, was to send money back to Peru: “But I don’t have any money to send.”The idea of coming to Spain, he added, was to send money back to Peru: “But I don’t have any money to send.”
The first two bullfights of the season have been cancelled at the city’s Las Ventas bullring and there were no tourists to study its Neo-Mudéjar splendour, or to visit the nearby statue of Alexander Fleming, saviour of many a gored torero thanks to the discovery of penicillin.The first two bullfights of the season have been cancelled at the city’s Las Ventas bullring and there were no tourists to study its Neo-Mudéjar splendour, or to visit the nearby statue of Alexander Fleming, saviour of many a gored torero thanks to the discovery of penicillin.
Animal rights campaigners have been celebrating the cancellation. The coronavirus is nothing if not an equal opportunities infector.Animal rights campaigners have been celebrating the cancellation. The coronavirus is nothing if not an equal opportunities infector.
The two most senior leaders of the far-right Vox party, a staunch defender of bullfighting, have tested positive for the virus, and the party has apologised for holding a 9,000-person rally in Madrid last Sunday.The two most senior leaders of the far-right Vox party, a staunch defender of bullfighting, have tested positive for the virus, and the party has apologised for holding a 9,000-person rally in Madrid last Sunday.
Meanwhile, two members of the socialist-led coalition government – including its equality minister, Irene Montero – have also contracted the virus, and the administration has been accused of putting politics before public health by allowing large International Women’s Day events to go ahead on 8 March.Meanwhile, two members of the socialist-led coalition government – including its equality minister, Irene Montero – have also contracted the virus, and the administration has been accused of putting politics before public health by allowing large International Women’s Day events to go ahead on 8 March.
Montero’s diagnosis also led to King Felipe and Queen Letizia being tested after the queen participated in a joint event with the minister last Friday. The tests were negative.Montero’s diagnosis also led to King Felipe and Queen Letizia being tested after the queen participated in a joint event with the minister last Friday. The tests were negative.
In Madrid’s Retiro park, once home to a royal palace, a children’s play area was taped off and the boating lake had been commandeered by gulls while the rowboats bobbed in their chains.In Madrid’s Retiro park, once home to a royal palace, a children’s play area was taped off and the boating lake had been commandeered by gulls while the rowboats bobbed in their chains.
Sitting by the lake, close to a living statue in full Predator costume and a brave soul in an outsized Panda suit, sat a phlegmatic busker in a huge sombrero. Despite his songs and mariachi hat, the singer was not Mexican. “I’m from Honduras – it’s close enough,” he said.Sitting by the lake, close to a living statue in full Predator costume and a brave soul in an outsized Panda suit, sat a phlegmatic busker in a huge sombrero. Despite his songs and mariachi hat, the singer was not Mexican. “I’m from Honduras – it’s close enough,” he said.
Nor was he worried about the disease encircling the city. “Things aren’t so bad yet,” he said as he tuned his guitar. “You just have to trust in God. And anyway, it’s like the Bible says, ‘For dust thou art and unto dust shalt thou return’.”Nor was he worried about the disease encircling the city. “Things aren’t so bad yet,” he said as he tuned his guitar. “You just have to trust in God. And anyway, it’s like the Bible says, ‘For dust thou art and unto dust shalt thou return’.”