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Independent Restaurants Brace for the Unknown Independent Restaurants Brace for the Unknown
(3 days later)
It took two months for JoAnn Clevenger to reopen Upperline, a traditional Creole restaurant in New Orleans, after Hurricane Katrina devastated that city in 2005. This time, a virus has closed the place, probably for a lot longer.It took two months for JoAnn Clevenger to reopen Upperline, a traditional Creole restaurant in New Orleans, after Hurricane Katrina devastated that city in 2005. This time, a virus has closed the place, probably for a lot longer.
It didn’t take long for her to realize that a takeout operation wouldn’t keep the business alive, and the odds that she will reopen anytime soon are against her. On Thursday, Ms. Clevenger wrote out the last paychecks to her 24 employees, some of whom had been with her for more than 25 years.It didn’t take long for her to realize that a takeout operation wouldn’t keep the business alive, and the odds that she will reopen anytime soon are against her. On Thursday, Ms. Clevenger wrote out the last paychecks to her 24 employees, some of whom had been with her for more than 25 years.
“Stay safe, stay in touch,” she wrote on each one. “You’re what makes the Upperline great.”“Stay safe, stay in touch,” she wrote on each one. “You’re what makes the Upperline great.”
The prognosis for independent operations like hers seem dire. From big cities like New York to smaller ones like Birmingham, Ala., restaurants have been forced to close their dining rooms; many have simply shuttered, while others are relying on takeout and delivery. Cities like Omaha and Tempe, Ariz., have limited the number of guests, but closings are on the horizon.The prognosis for independent operations like hers seem dire. From big cities like New York to smaller ones like Birmingham, Ala., restaurants have been forced to close their dining rooms; many have simply shuttered, while others are relying on takeout and delivery. Cities like Omaha and Tempe, Ariz., have limited the number of guests, but closings are on the horizon.
Large chains and well-funded restaurant groups have the resources to ride out a protracted shutdown, but the independent restaurants that make up about two-thirds of the American dining landscape — noodle shops, diners and that charming urban restaurant that always had a line out the door — may not survive.Large chains and well-funded restaurant groups have the resources to ride out a protracted shutdown, but the independent restaurants that make up about two-thirds of the American dining landscape — noodle shops, diners and that charming urban restaurant that always had a line out the door — may not survive.
Restaurant analysts and operators have been quoting an estimate that 75 percent of the independent restaurants that have been closed to protect Americans from the coronavirus won’t make it. The National Restaurant Association estimated this week that the entire industry would lose $225 billion in the coming three months and shed five to seven million employees.Restaurant analysts and operators have been quoting an estimate that 75 percent of the independent restaurants that have been closed to protect Americans from the coronavirus won’t make it. The National Restaurant Association estimated this week that the entire industry would lose $225 billion in the coming three months and shed five to seven million employees.
“It’s a lot more difficult than saying, ‘Let’s hunker down for a month and a half, and then we open and everything is fine,’ ” said Tom Colicchio, the New York chef and television personality who himself laid off 300 people across seven restaurants.“It’s a lot more difficult than saying, ‘Let’s hunker down for a month and a half, and then we open and everything is fine,’ ” said Tom Colicchio, the New York chef and television personality who himself laid off 300 people across seven restaurants.
Mr. Colicchio on Friday released a detailed set of recommendations to Congress from a newly formed group of independent restaurant owners who are scrambling to put pressure on the federal government.Mr. Colicchio on Friday released a detailed set of recommendations to Congress from a newly formed group of independent restaurant owners who are scrambling to put pressure on the federal government.
“This is going to take a year,” said Mr. Colicchio, who believes that the 75 percent failure rate isn’t an exaggeration. “The world just changed. The enormity of the problem here is so big people can’t wrap their heads around it.”“This is going to take a year,” said Mr. Colicchio, who believes that the 75 percent failure rate isn’t an exaggeration. “The world just changed. The enormity of the problem here is so big people can’t wrap their heads around it.”
But many restaurants, both big and small, aren’t going down without a fight. Customers and owners, including Mr. Colicchio, are staging a fast-growing offensive, from selling groceries to lobbying governments for policy changes and financial help.But many restaurants, both big and small, aren’t going down without a fight. Customers and owners, including Mr. Colicchio, are staging a fast-growing offensive, from selling groceries to lobbying governments for policy changes and financial help.
The National Restaurant Association asked the federal government Wednesday for a $145 billion recovery fund. The request, sent to President Trump and Congress, includes loan programs, $35 billion in grants for restaurant disaster relief in regions and communities especially hard-hit, and help in paying unemployed workers.The National Restaurant Association asked the federal government Wednesday for a $145 billion recovery fund. The request, sent to President Trump and Congress, includes loan programs, $35 billion in grants for restaurant disaster relief in regions and communities especially hard-hit, and help in paying unemployed workers.
The package also proposes a series of tax cuts and credits, and federally backed business-interruption insurance. Traditional business-interruption policies are expensive, and some exclude coverage for pandemics.The package also proposes a series of tax cuts and credits, and federally backed business-interruption insurance. Traditional business-interruption policies are expensive, and some exclude coverage for pandemics.
Restaurants with those policies are already taking on their insurers. Oceana Grill, in New Orleans, filed a lawsuit Monday asking a state judge to affirm that the restaurant’s business-interruption policy covers its current closing.Restaurants with those policies are already taking on their insurers. Oceana Grill, in New Orleans, filed a lawsuit Monday asking a state judge to affirm that the restaurant’s business-interruption policy covers its current closing.
Chefs and restaurant owners are also banding together to maximize their lobbying power. Chris Cosentino is one of several chefs trying to organize political efforts under the hashtag #saveamericanhospitality.Chefs and restaurant owners are also banding together to maximize their lobbying power. Chris Cosentino is one of several chefs trying to organize political efforts under the hashtag #saveamericanhospitality.
“Takeout and delivery would only have been a Band-Aid,” said Mr. Cosentino, who this week shuttered his restaurant in San Francisco. “The amount wouldn’t have been worth risking health and safety for my employees, their families.”“Takeout and delivery would only have been a Band-Aid,” said Mr. Cosentino, who this week shuttered his restaurant in San Francisco. “The amount wouldn’t have been worth risking health and safety for my employees, their families.”
A group of New York’s top chefs and restaurant groups have formed Relief Opportunities for All Restaurants, a coalition to pressure state and local governments to help save the industry. “We are on the brink of extinction,” reads the group’s petition on change.org.A group of New York’s top chefs and restaurant groups have formed Relief Opportunities for All Restaurants, a coalition to pressure state and local governments to help save the industry. “We are on the brink of extinction,” reads the group’s petition on change.org.
Their first initiative is pushing Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo to postpone sales tax payments. The coalition also wants the state to help ease rents, provide emergency employment benefits and make speedy changes to zoning and permit laws so restaurants can sell alcohol to take away or use their spaces as boutique groceries.Their first initiative is pushing Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo to postpone sales tax payments. The coalition also wants the state to help ease rents, provide emergency employment benefits and make speedy changes to zoning and permit laws so restaurants can sell alcohol to take away or use their spaces as boutique groceries.
In Tampa, Fla., Jordan Johnson is betting on the grocery idea. He spent nearly a year preparing to open Naked Farmer, a fast-casual restaurant serving food from local farms. He was planning to start training 20 employees next week for a grand opening on April 1 when it became clear that it wouldn’t happen.In Tampa, Fla., Jordan Johnson is betting on the grocery idea. He spent nearly a year preparing to open Naked Farmer, a fast-casual restaurant serving food from local farms. He was planning to start training 20 employees next week for a grand opening on April 1 when it became clear that it wouldn’t happen.
So he pivoted. He cut his staff to four, and decided to become a digital farmers’ market that home-delivers fresh produce like arugula and sweet potatoes. The goal is to expand to prepared foods, all in an attempt to keep a few people employed and pay the crushing $6,000 in rent on a dining room he can’t use.So he pivoted. He cut his staff to four, and decided to become a digital farmers’ market that home-delivers fresh produce like arugula and sweet potatoes. The goal is to expand to prepared foods, all in an attempt to keep a few people employed and pay the crushing $6,000 in rent on a dining room he can’t use.
“We’re not as devastated as maybe a fine-dining restaurant that didn’t have a delivery mechanism,” he said. “If we didn’t come up with this idea, we would just be sitting on the couch doing nothing and looking at all the conspiracy theories.”“We’re not as devastated as maybe a fine-dining restaurant that didn’t have a delivery mechanism,” he said. “If we didn’t come up with this idea, we would just be sitting on the couch doing nothing and looking at all the conspiracy theories.”
Customers are trying to do their part, too. Online fund-raising campaigns for individual restaurants are popping up almost by the hour. The visitors’ bureau in Charlotte, N.C., is keeping a running list of restaurants providing food for takeout or delivery. A national social-media campaign with the hashtag #toosmalltofail was started Friday, urging customers to call lawmakers and lobby for help on behalf of independent restaurants.Customers are trying to do their part, too. Online fund-raising campaigns for individual restaurants are popping up almost by the hour. The visitors’ bureau in Charlotte, N.C., is keeping a running list of restaurants providing food for takeout or delivery. A national social-media campaign with the hashtag #toosmalltofail was started Friday, urging customers to call lawmakers and lobby for help on behalf of independent restaurants.
On Thursday, before the debut of the latest season of “Top Chef,” Padma Lakshmi, one of the show’s stars, posted a video on social media urging people to buy gift certificates or merchandise from their favorite restaurants. “See if they have anything like hats and T-shirts you can buy,” she said.On Thursday, before the debut of the latest season of “Top Chef,” Padma Lakshmi, one of the show’s stars, posted a video on social media urging people to buy gift certificates or merchandise from their favorite restaurants. “See if they have anything like hats and T-shirts you can buy,” she said.
In Brooklyn, the Gowanus Dredgers Canoe Club, a crew who regularly ply the Gowanus Canal, posted a crowdsourced list of restaurants and other businesses in the neighborhood that are still open. Members have started paddling along the canal with a hand-painted sign urging people to buy gift certificates.In Brooklyn, the Gowanus Dredgers Canoe Club, a crew who regularly ply the Gowanus Canal, posted a crowdsourced list of restaurants and other businesses in the neighborhood that are still open. Members have started paddling along the canal with a hand-painted sign urging people to buy gift certificates.
“Every individual out there has agency,” said Brad Vogel, who painted the sign. “Even if you’re home alone you can do something,”“Every individual out there has agency,” said Brad Vogel, who painted the sign. “Even if you’re home alone you can do something,”
Still, the realization is sinking in that many restaurants will be able to survive only so long on takeout. Gift cards help, but many customers buy them knowing they are likely microloans, with no guarantee that the restaurant will be around long.Still, the realization is sinking in that many restaurants will be able to survive only so long on takeout. Gift cards help, but many customers buy them knowing they are likely microloans, with no guarantee that the restaurant will be around long.
Gadi Peleg owns Nur, a 59-seat modern Middle Eastern restaurant in the Flatiron district of Manhattan whose menu is overseen by the Israeli chef Meir Adoni. He doesn’t know how long it and LamaLo, his other restaurant, will able to keep going offering food to go, or the direction his other business, Breads Bakery, will take.Gadi Peleg owns Nur, a 59-seat modern Middle Eastern restaurant in the Flatiron district of Manhattan whose menu is overseen by the Israeli chef Meir Adoni. He doesn’t know how long it and LamaLo, his other restaurant, will able to keep going offering food to go, or the direction his other business, Breads Bakery, will take.
Mr. Peleg wouldn’t say how many people he has laid off, but said he has consolidated the two restaurants into one kitchen, has cross-trained cooks to produce both menus and is doing everything he can to keep people working.Mr. Peleg wouldn’t say how many people he has laid off, but said he has consolidated the two restaurants into one kitchen, has cross-trained cooks to produce both menus and is doing everything he can to keep people working.
“We’ve cut it to a point where we are trying to remain sustainable,” he said. “What I am telling my staff is that the present is impossible to decipher right now. We are trying to focus on the future.”“We’ve cut it to a point where we are trying to remain sustainable,” he said. “What I am telling my staff is that the present is impossible to decipher right now. We are trying to focus on the future.”
When that future comes, reopening restaurants will come as a slow wave. Chains, which have the legal resources and corporate structures to navigate the complex process of securing government loans and grants, will probably reopen quickly, analysts say. Small, nimble places with simple menus, like burger joints and taco stands, may also be able to react quickly. But the longer the shutdown goes on, the more lead-time fine-dining restaurants and places with complex menus to execute will need.When that future comes, reopening restaurants will come as a slow wave. Chains, which have the legal resources and corporate structures to navigate the complex process of securing government loans and grants, will probably reopen quickly, analysts say. Small, nimble places with simple menus, like burger joints and taco stands, may also be able to react quickly. But the longer the shutdown goes on, the more lead-time fine-dining restaurants and places with complex menus to execute will need.
“Even if we’re only off for three months, you can’t just turn the light switch back on,” said Danny Meyer, who this week laid off 2,000 employees, about 80 percent of his Union Square Hospitality Group work force. “It will take at least four to six weeks to get back on your feet.”“Even if we’re only off for three months, you can’t just turn the light switch back on,” said Danny Meyer, who this week laid off 2,000 employees, about 80 percent of his Union Square Hospitality Group work force. “It will take at least four to six weeks to get back on your feet.”
Updated June 5, 2020 Updated June 12, 2020
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.
The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.
Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission.Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission.
Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.
The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.
And the restaurant landscape will likely look very different. Daniel Shein, a partner in Nur, is trying to raise capital for Agnoris, a start-up software company designed to help restaurants use data to run more efficiently. He presented the idea to investors Monday as part of “demo day” at Y Combinator, a Silicon Valley initiative that helps start-ups refine their products and pitch them to selected audience of investors.And the restaurant landscape will likely look very different. Daniel Shein, a partner in Nur, is trying to raise capital for Agnoris, a start-up software company designed to help restaurants use data to run more efficiently. He presented the idea to investors Monday as part of “demo day” at Y Combinator, a Silicon Valley initiative that helps start-ups refine their products and pitch them to selected audience of investors.
The paradox of pitching a product for future restaurants while trying to save one from dying is not lost on him. Like others, including Mr. Colicchio, Mr. Shein said the only bright spot in the crisis is a chance for the restaurant industry to renew itself.The paradox of pitching a product for future restaurants while trying to save one from dying is not lost on him. Like others, including Mr. Colicchio, Mr. Shein said the only bright spot in the crisis is a chance for the restaurant industry to renew itself.
Before the virus hit, the nation’s restaurant business was almost overheated, with new places opening faster in many cities than diners could keep up with. Restaurants were essential amenities for developers and gentrification markers in neighborhoods. Rising rents, labor shortages and struggles to find a better way to care for and compensate employees were constant topics of conversation.Before the virus hit, the nation’s restaurant business was almost overheated, with new places opening faster in many cities than diners could keep up with. Restaurants were essential amenities for developers and gentrification markers in neighborhoods. Rising rents, labor shortages and struggles to find a better way to care for and compensate employees were constant topics of conversation.
When the industry does start up again, many say it will be a time to let go of outdated business practices and develop new, more creative ways to feed people.When the industry does start up again, many say it will be a time to let go of outdated business practices and develop new, more creative ways to feed people.
“The industry has been needing a correction, and none of us wanted what’s going on now, but this is going to force people to revisit the business side and not just the culinary side,” Mr. Shein said. “It’s going to be a very painful few months, but I hope people don’t give up, and come back with this desire to change the game.”“The industry has been needing a correction, and none of us wanted what’s going on now, but this is going to force people to revisit the business side and not just the culinary side,” Mr. Shein said. “It’s going to be a very painful few months, but I hope people don’t give up, and come back with this desire to change the game.”
Until then, some analysts say, smaller independent restaurants have a better shot at survival.Until then, some analysts say, smaller independent restaurants have a better shot at survival.
One example is Porridge & Puffs, in Los Angeles. A week ago, its chef and owner, Minh Phan, was canceling events faster than she could rewrite contracts. In the span of two hours, all her reservations evaporated.One example is Porridge & Puffs, in Los Angeles. A week ago, its chef and owner, Minh Phan, was canceling events faster than she could rewrite contracts. In the span of two hours, all her reservations evaporated.
She has only six employees, and made a promise to keep everyone for as long as she could. So far, none have had their hours cut, but she is dipping into her savings to pay them.She has only six employees, and made a promise to keep everyone for as long as she could. So far, none have had their hours cut, but she is dipping into her savings to pay them.
On Thursday, the team cleared out the dining room to make the restaurant into a food shop, selling comforting rice porridge, prepared foods like pickles and jams, bundles of flowers and bulk pantry staples for home cooks, from rice to two-pound bags of dried chickpeas. The restaurant’s website now allows customers to place orders in advance, and the staff packs to-go boxes for curbside delivery in Historic Filipinotown.On Thursday, the team cleared out the dining room to make the restaurant into a food shop, selling comforting rice porridge, prepared foods like pickles and jams, bundles of flowers and bulk pantry staples for home cooks, from rice to two-pound bags of dried chickpeas. The restaurant’s website now allows customers to place orders in advance, and the staff packs to-go boxes for curbside delivery in Historic Filipinotown.
“But it’s not a great long-term plan,” Ms. Phan said. Supplies will be increasingly difficult to buy, and labor is expensive. If the situation goes on for six months or a year, Ms. Phan will figure out another plan, adapting to keep the lights on.“But it’s not a great long-term plan,” Ms. Phan said. Supplies will be increasingly difficult to buy, and labor is expensive. If the situation goes on for six months or a year, Ms. Phan will figure out another plan, adapting to keep the lights on.
“I’m optimistic,” she said. “I’m scrappy. I thrive during wartime.”“I’m optimistic,” she said. “I’m scrappy. I thrive during wartime.”
Brett Anderson contributed reporting from New Orleans, Julia Moskin from New York and Tejal Rao from Los Angeles.Brett Anderson contributed reporting from New Orleans, Julia Moskin from New York and Tejal Rao from Los Angeles.
Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.