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Christian Siriano and Dov Charney Are Making Masks and Medical Supplies Now Christian Siriano and Dov Charney Are Making Masks and Medical Supplies Now
(2 months later)
Last week the American fashion industry went dark as stores and factories closed, both voluntarily and by government decree, to help prevent the spread of the new coronavirus.Last week the American fashion industry went dark as stores and factories closed, both voluntarily and by government decree, to help prevent the spread of the new coronavirus.
Yet by this weekend, lights had flicked on again on both coasts as designers and manufacturers began to pivot from making dresses, jeans and bathing suits to making surgical face masks and other protective gear — even as President Trump addressed the United States, saying unspecified help would be on the way for hospitals that expect to be overwhelmed and under-resourced.Yet by this weekend, lights had flicked on again on both coasts as designers and manufacturers began to pivot from making dresses, jeans and bathing suits to making surgical face masks and other protective gear — even as President Trump addressed the United States, saying unspecified help would be on the way for hospitals that expect to be overwhelmed and under-resourced.
Los Angeles Apparel is making surgical masks; it will on Monday begin making hospital gowns as well. Dov Charney, the company’s founder and the former head of American Apparel, hopes his 150,000-square-foot factory can produce 300,000 masks and 50,000 gowns in a week.Los Angeles Apparel is making surgical masks; it will on Monday begin making hospital gowns as well. Dov Charney, the company’s founder and the former head of American Apparel, hopes his 150,000-square-foot factory can produce 300,000 masks and 50,000 gowns in a week.
Christian Siriano, the fashion designer, has reassigned his 10 seamstresses in New York. They are beginning to make masks and hope to produce a few thousand a week.Christian Siriano, the fashion designer, has reassigned his 10 seamstresses in New York. They are beginning to make masks and hope to produce a few thousand a week.
The swimwear company Karla Colletto had closed its factory in Virginia, but planned to retool and reopen it shortly to help combat the critical shortage of personal protective equipment that faces hospitals and health care workers.The swimwear company Karla Colletto had closed its factory in Virginia, but planned to retool and reopen it shortly to help combat the critical shortage of personal protective equipment that faces hospitals and health care workers.
Though they make a strange trio — Mr. Siriano, the former “Project Runway” star and current host who has become famous for his inclusive approach to dressing and has been championed by Michelle Obama; Mr. Charney, the embattled chief executive who was once forced to leave his post, accused of misuse of funds and of knowingly allowing sexual harassment; and a high-end bikini manufacturer — the group of companies reflects as much as anything the current confusion over the best response to the coronavirus crisis, and the way individuals are beginning to take action into their own hands.Though they make a strange trio — Mr. Siriano, the former “Project Runway” star and current host who has become famous for his inclusive approach to dressing and has been championed by Michelle Obama; Mr. Charney, the embattled chief executive who was once forced to leave his post, accused of misuse of funds and of knowingly allowing sexual harassment; and a high-end bikini manufacturer — the group of companies reflects as much as anything the current confusion over the best response to the coronavirus crisis, and the way individuals are beginning to take action into their own hands.
Or headquarters, as it were.Or headquarters, as it were.
None of the three manufacturers are making N95 respirator masks — medical grade protection recommended for medical professionals — though they are all responding to government calls for businesses to aid in combating the shortage of general medical supplies.None of the three manufacturers are making N95 respirator masks — medical grade protection recommended for medical professionals — though they are all responding to government calls for businesses to aid in combating the shortage of general medical supplies.
Mr. Charney and Mr. Siriano are each designing their own washable, reusable masks. They are not “medical grade,” though Mr. Siriano intends to make masks that meet F.D.A. standards as soon as he can acquire approved materials and patterns, and begin prototyping. Karla Colletto is planning to replicate masks made by 3M, using patterns and fabric sent from that long-established hospital supplier.Mr. Charney and Mr. Siriano are each designing their own washable, reusable masks. They are not “medical grade,” though Mr. Siriano intends to make masks that meet F.D.A. standards as soon as he can acquire approved materials and patterns, and begin prototyping. Karla Colletto is planning to replicate masks made by 3M, using patterns and fabric sent from that long-established hospital supplier.
The moves follow the decision by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the European luxury giant, and L’Oreal and Coty, the beauty conglomerates, to use their facilities to produce large quantities of hand sanitizer for European hospitals. In Spain, Inditex, the parent company of Zara, is also looking into refitting its textile factories to make hospital gowns.The moves follow the decision by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the European luxury giant, and L’Oreal and Coty, the beauty conglomerates, to use their facilities to produce large quantities of hand sanitizer for European hospitals. In Spain, Inditex, the parent company of Zara, is also looking into refitting its textile factories to make hospital gowns.
As an industry, fashion has been particularly affected by the mass business closings — and particularly active in offering resources to assist the fight against the coronavirus, stepping up as governments and the medical community scramble to respond to the crisis. In the same way automotive factories and upholsterers were retooled during World War II to supply the military, fashion is rethinking its manufacturing capabilities.As an industry, fashion has been particularly affected by the mass business closings — and particularly active in offering resources to assist the fight against the coronavirus, stepping up as governments and the medical community scramble to respond to the crisis. In the same way automotive factories and upholsterers were retooled during World War II to supply the military, fashion is rethinking its manufacturing capabilities.
“A week ago, our machines were humming along,” Karla Colletto said via phone on Saturday. During normal business times, her Vienna, Va., factory can produce 800 to 1,000 pieces of swimwear each week.“A week ago, our machines were humming along,” Karla Colletto said via phone on Saturday. During normal business times, her Vienna, Va., factory can produce 800 to 1,000 pieces of swimwear each week.
But like many other companies, as the coronavirus diagnosis count rose in the United States, the made-to-order swimwear company decided to cease production. Ten percent of its orders had already been canceled and the rest postponed, said Lisa Rovan, a co-founder of the brand, with Ms. Colletto.But like many other companies, as the coronavirus diagnosis count rose in the United States, the made-to-order swimwear company decided to cease production. Ten percent of its orders had already been canceled and the rest postponed, said Lisa Rovan, a co-founder of the brand, with Ms. Colletto.
Yet as their factory went dark, Ms. Colletto and Ms. Rovan were formulating a plan to bring as many of their 40 employees (including two dozen sewers) as possible back to work making masks and gowns for hospitals in need.Yet as their factory went dark, Ms. Colletto and Ms. Rovan were formulating a plan to bring as many of their 40 employees (including two dozen sewers) as possible back to work making masks and gowns for hospitals in need.
“Because we have our own facility, we can be flexible and switch gears quickly,” Ms. Colletto said. That means separating machines within the factory to be six feet apart to help prevent transmission between workers, following OSHA safety guidelines, and staying in communication with workers about any exposure to the virus.“Because we have our own facility, we can be flexible and switch gears quickly,” Ms. Colletto said. That means separating machines within the factory to be six feet apart to help prevent transmission between workers, following OSHA safety guidelines, and staying in communication with workers about any exposure to the virus.
This week, they’re awaiting fabric and patterns for disposable surgical procedure masks and gowns from 3M, the company that also produces N95 respirator masks. Once the protective gear is made, both Ms. Colletto and Ms. Rovan said they could not sell it directly to hospitals, so the products would go through a hospital supply distributor. The sales will help fund the factory employees’ paychecks.This week, they’re awaiting fabric and patterns for disposable surgical procedure masks and gowns from 3M, the company that also produces N95 respirator masks. Once the protective gear is made, both Ms. Colletto and Ms. Rovan said they could not sell it directly to hospitals, so the products would go through a hospital supply distributor. The sales will help fund the factory employees’ paychecks.
On Friday, Gov. Andrew Cuomo of New York issued an appeal during his daily news conference for businesses to “get creative” and manufacture protective equipment. In response Mr. Siriano tweeted: “If @NYGovCuomo says we need masks my team will help make some. I have a full sewing team still on staff working from home that can help.” (Governor Cuomo responded with a request to “follow back and we will DM you.”)On Friday, Gov. Andrew Cuomo of New York issued an appeal during his daily news conference for businesses to “get creative” and manufacture protective equipment. In response Mr. Siriano tweeted: “If @NYGovCuomo says we need masks my team will help make some. I have a full sewing team still on staff working from home that can help.” (Governor Cuomo responded with a request to “follow back and we will DM you.”)
Mr. Siriano said he had been wondering how to help his employees, who were at home, and the chance to make masks was both a way to keep them occupied and to give purpose to their work.Mr. Siriano said he had been wondering how to help his employees, who were at home, and the chance to make masks was both a way to keep them occupied and to give purpose to their work.
Since then, Mr. Siriano has been in daily touch with the governor’s office, he said, as they work out how the masks should be made. He has 10 seamstresses who are working from home and are available to make the masks, which are intended both for hospital support staff and private individuals.Since then, Mr. Siriano has been in daily touch with the governor’s office, he said, as they work out how the masks should be made. He has 10 seamstresses who are working from home and are available to make the masks, which are intended both for hospital support staff and private individuals.
Mr. Siriano has continued to provide updates on Twitter; he said he was making “a few versions” to “help as many people as we can” and “get a perfect fit.” On Friday, he posted that “prototypes are happening.” The masks, which were made from a poly-lycra-cotton blend fabric that the company already had in the stockroom, are being tested according to regulations from the governor’s office.Mr. Siriano has continued to provide updates on Twitter; he said he was making “a few versions” to “help as many people as we can” and “get a perfect fit.” On Friday, he posted that “prototypes are happening.” The masks, which were made from a poly-lycra-cotton blend fabric that the company already had in the stockroom, are being tested according to regulations from the governor’s office.
“They have to be white, so they can be bleached,” Mr. Siriano said on a call from Connecticut, noting that they also had to withstand multiple washings.“They have to be white, so they can be bleached,” Mr. Siriano said on a call from Connecticut, noting that they also had to withstand multiple washings.
He hopes to begin actually manufacturing the nonmedical grade masks by Monday, and projects he can produce 1,000 by the end of the week. He is also hoping to get a special exemption to reopen his office to make the masks, after sanitizing it and complying with official regulations, and is aiming to create medical-grade masks in the future.He hopes to begin actually manufacturing the nonmedical grade masks by Monday, and projects he can produce 1,000 by the end of the week. He is also hoping to get a special exemption to reopen his office to make the masks, after sanitizing it and complying with official regulations, and is aiming to create medical-grade masks in the future.
Though the masks would initially be offered free of charge during the crisis, at a certain point, Mr. Siriano said, if demand kept rising, they “can’t afford to keep going forever” since the rest of his business, which is self-funded, was largely on hold.Though the masks would initially be offered free of charge during the crisis, at a certain point, Mr. Siriano said, if demand kept rising, they “can’t afford to keep going forever” since the rest of his business, which is self-funded, was largely on hold.
“Every manufacturer is at something of a standstill anyway,” he said. “This gave us something to do and a way to help even a little.”“Every manufacturer is at something of a standstill anyway,” he said. “This gave us something to do and a way to help even a little.”
On the West Coast, Mr. Charney began manufacturing his masks a few weeks ago, when he became aware of the growing shortage in the market. Because his company largely produces T-shirts and other apparel for the music and merchandising industry, many of his employees already wear masks to protect themselves from the dust involved in textile manufacturing. He began to look into designing his own products, and last week began production.On the West Coast, Mr. Charney began manufacturing his masks a few weeks ago, when he became aware of the growing shortage in the market. Because his company largely produces T-shirts and other apparel for the music and merchandising industry, many of his employees already wear masks to protect themselves from the dust involved in textile manufacturing. He began to look into designing his own products, and last week began production.
“These are not N95 masks, but they are the equivalent of surgical masks,” he said over the phone. Made from a sweatshirt-like fabric, they fit closely over the face and are held on by two straps with a metal adjuster on the nose. They are intended for reuse, which surgical masks are not, and are intended to be washed in hot water.“These are not N95 masks, but they are the equivalent of surgical masks,” he said over the phone. Made from a sweatshirt-like fabric, they fit closely over the face and are held on by two straps with a metal adjuster on the nose. They are intended for reuse, which surgical masks are not, and are intended to be washed in hot water.
Updated June 2, 2020
Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission.
Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
More than 40 million people — the equivalent of 1 in 4 U.S. workers — have filed for unemployment benefits since the pandemic took hold. One in five who were working in February reported losing a job or being furloughed in March or the beginning of April, data from a Federal Reserve survey released on May 14 showed, and that pain was highly concentrated among low earners. Fully 39 percent of former workers living in a household earning $40,000 or less lost work, compared with 13 percent in those making more than $100,000, a Fed official said.
Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.
The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.
Mr. Charney is in talks with both federal and municipal agencies to supply large quantities of the masks. He said he had made deliveries to hospitals in Seattle, New Mexico, New York and Las Vegas. Hospitals in Los Angeles receive the masks free of charge; consumers can purchase them on the Los Angeles Apparel website for three for $30. (The C.D.C. recommends people wear masks if they are sick. People who are well do not need to wear masks, and are encouraged to save masks for caregivers.)Mr. Charney is in talks with both federal and municipal agencies to supply large quantities of the masks. He said he had made deliveries to hospitals in Seattle, New Mexico, New York and Las Vegas. Hospitals in Los Angeles receive the masks free of charge; consumers can purchase them on the Los Angeles Apparel website for three for $30. (The C.D.C. recommends people wear masks if they are sick. People who are well do not need to wear masks, and are encouraged to save masks for caregivers.)
The approximately 450 people who work in Mr. Charney’s factory all wear the masks, as does any third party vendor who enters the space. They are all also subject to daily temperature checks — once upon entering and again later in the day — and efforts have been made to move the machinery farther apart to maintain social distancing, though Mr. Charney acknowledges that is “not always possible.” So far, no one has tested positive for the virus that causes Covid-19.The approximately 450 people who work in Mr. Charney’s factory all wear the masks, as does any third party vendor who enters the space. They are all also subject to daily temperature checks — once upon entering and again later in the day — and efforts have been made to move the machinery farther apart to maintain social distancing, though Mr. Charney acknowledges that is “not always possible.” So far, no one has tested positive for the virus that causes Covid-19.
The decision to step up and begin manufacturing masks marks a return to public life for Mr. Charney, who has been lying low since his ouster from American Apparel in 2014.The decision to step up and begin manufacturing masks marks a return to public life for Mr. Charney, who has been lying low since his ouster from American Apparel in 2014.
Even beyond manufacturing, fashion companies are using their manufacturing networks to find masks.Even beyond manufacturing, fashion companies are using their manufacturing networks to find masks.
Both Inditex and LVMH have used their distribution networks to gain access to Chinese manufacturers of face masks; LVMH announced on Saturday it had ordered 40 million face masks from a Chinese supplier, bound for France.Both Inditex and LVMH have used their distribution networks to gain access to Chinese manufacturers of face masks; LVMH announced on Saturday it had ordered 40 million face masks from a Chinese supplier, bound for France.
The first 10 million masks will begin arriving on Wednesday, and amount to 5 million euros, paid for by Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH. Inditex had shipped 10,000 face masks from China and were expected to ship another 300,000.The first 10 million masks will begin arriving on Wednesday, and amount to 5 million euros, paid for by Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH. Inditex had shipped 10,000 face masks from China and were expected to ship another 300,000.
In New York, Kerby Jean-Raymond, the owner and designer behind the label Pyer Moss, also issued a call on Instagram for masks and other protective supplies.In New York, Kerby Jean-Raymond, the owner and designer behind the label Pyer Moss, also issued a call on Instagram for masks and other protective supplies.
He notes in his post that his sister is a nurse and that she and many of her colleagues “have not had enough N95 masks and some are without gloves.”He notes in his post that his sister is a nurse and that she and many of her colleagues “have not had enough N95 masks and some are without gloves.”
“My sister was exposed to Covid-19 and her elder patients’ safety have been compromised due to some professionals having to wear makeshift masks,” Mr. Jean-Raymond added.“My sister was exposed to Covid-19 and her elder patients’ safety have been compromised due to some professionals having to wear makeshift masks,” Mr. Jean-Raymond added.
Mr. Jean-Raymond said in the post he was converting the Pyer Moss office into a donation center for masks, gloves and gowns, and included an email address where medical officials in need could reach out. (Its address: wanttohelp@yourfriendsin.nyc.)Mr. Jean-Raymond said in the post he was converting the Pyer Moss office into a donation center for masks, gloves and gowns, and included an email address where medical officials in need could reach out. (Its address: wanttohelp@yourfriendsin.nyc.)
All of the brands involved in the masks programs are hoping their example starts a new trend.All of the brands involved in the masks programs are hoping their example starts a new trend.
“We are a tiny company,” Mr. Siriano said, continuing, “if a giant company with a lot of manpower were to take a similar initiative, it could change everything.”“We are a tiny company,” Mr. Siriano said, continuing, “if a giant company with a lot of manpower were to take a similar initiative, it could change everything.”