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Can Fashion Save Itself? Can Fashion Save Itself?
(about 11 hours later)
The revelation of the crisis in retail caused by the coronavirus and the global response has coincided with the close of the first round of applications for A Common Thread, American fashion’s self-rescue plan. The initiative was created less than a month ago to help the independent designers, stores and contractors that make up the fashion ecosystem.The revelation of the crisis in retail caused by the coronavirus and the global response has coincided with the close of the first round of applications for A Common Thread, American fashion’s self-rescue plan. The initiative was created less than a month ago to help the independent designers, stores and contractors that make up the fashion ecosystem.
Can the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue succeed where the Small Business Administration has stumbled?Can the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue succeed where the Small Business Administration has stumbled?
In the 10-day application period that began April 8, more than 800 companies and individuals from 38 states applied for a slice of what is currently a $4.1 million fund, raised from industry supporters and private individuals, with grants earmarked for business with revenues of under $10 million and fewer than 30 employees.In the 10-day application period that began April 8, more than 800 companies and individuals from 38 states applied for a slice of what is currently a $4.1 million fund, raised from industry supporters and private individuals, with grants earmarked for business with revenues of under $10 million and fewer than 30 employees.
No grant will be more than $100,000.No grant will be more than $100,000.
“We don’t pretend this is a bailout,” said Anna Wintour, the artistic director of Condé Nast and editor of Vogue. “We see this as a grant that will bridge a very difficult time, something to keep the lights on. The goal is to give a little bit of money to as many as possible.”“We don’t pretend this is a bailout,” said Anna Wintour, the artistic director of Condé Nast and editor of Vogue. “We see this as a grant that will bridge a very difficult time, something to keep the lights on. The goal is to give a little bit of money to as many as possible.”
The money could help designers pay the factories that produce their samples, and the fabric suppliers; help stores pay designers for stock that has been ordered and produced; and help factories pay their garment workers.The money could help designers pay the factories that produce their samples, and the fabric suppliers; help stores pay designers for stock that has been ordered and produced; and help factories pay their garment workers.
“What really struck me was the depth and severity of the current crisis, as reflected in the applicant pool,” said Steven Kolb, the chief executive of the CFDA. “There were businesses on it that are 30 years old, who have helped build the American fashion industry, but who have remained content, year in and year out, to operate locally, without the goal of being a global lifestyle brand.”“What really struck me was the depth and severity of the current crisis, as reflected in the applicant pool,” said Steven Kolb, the chief executive of the CFDA. “There were businesses on it that are 30 years old, who have helped build the American fashion industry, but who have remained content, year in and year out, to operate locally, without the goal of being a global lifestyle brand.”
He paused and then added, “It was really difficult to see some of the names.”He paused and then added, “It was really difficult to see some of the names.”
(Mr. Kolb declined to provide the names out of respect for their privacy, but, he said, “You can look at the New York Fashion Week schedule.”)(Mr. Kolb declined to provide the names out of respect for their privacy, but, he said, “You can look at the New York Fashion Week schedule.”)
According to the CFDA, approximately 71 percent of the applicants were brand or designer names, 13 percent independent retailers, 7 percent small factories, and 8 percent associated companies like production and PR companies that help support the industry.According to the CFDA, approximately 71 percent of the applicants were brand or designer names, 13 percent independent retailers, 7 percent small factories, and 8 percent associated companies like production and PR companies that help support the industry.
After an initial vetting by the CFDA to weed out incomplete applications and ineligible names, a committee of 10, which includes Wen Zhou, the chief executive of 3.1 Phillip Lim; Rachna Shah, a partner at KCD; and Jeffery Fowler, the president, Americas at Farfetch, will read the applications and decide on the grants. The committee hopes to have the first money out by mid-to-late May.After an initial vetting by the CFDA to weed out incomplete applications and ineligible names, a committee of 10, which includes Wen Zhou, the chief executive of 3.1 Phillip Lim; Rachna Shah, a partner at KCD; and Jeffery Fowler, the president, Americas at Farfetch, will read the applications and decide on the grants. The committee hopes to have the first money out by mid-to-late May.
A Common Thread is just one of a group of fashion-world initiatives in the major style capitals. In London, the British Fashion Council’s BFC Foundation Fashion Fund for the Covid Crisis is looking to disburse an initial 1,000,000 pounds to independent designers and students, in grants of no more than 50,000 pounds. In Milan, the Camera della Moda is raising money to support independent talent through a campaign called #TogetherForTomorrow, which is also connecting young designers to experts in different fields.A Common Thread is just one of a group of fashion-world initiatives in the major style capitals. In London, the British Fashion Council’s BFC Foundation Fashion Fund for the Covid Crisis is looking to disburse an initial 1,000,000 pounds to independent designers and students, in grants of no more than 50,000 pounds. In Milan, the Camera della Moda is raising money to support independent talent through a campaign called #TogetherForTomorrow, which is also connecting young designers to experts in different fields.
In Paris, the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers — at 300,000 euros, the most lucrative emerging designer award in the world and normally allotted to a single emerging designer — will be shared among the eight current finalists. A second fund, which includes the 150,000-euro Karl Lagerfeld prize, will be available to aid winning designers from the last six years of the LVMH competition, on application.In Paris, the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers — at 300,000 euros, the most lucrative emerging designer award in the world and normally allotted to a single emerging designer — will be shared among the eight current finalists. A second fund, which includes the 150,000-euro Karl Lagerfeld prize, will be available to aid winning designers from the last six years of the LVMH competition, on application.
A Common Thread began as a repurposing of the fund-raising the CFDA and Vogue engaged in for their Fashion Fund prize, and since then, it has been augmented by donations: Ralph Lauren gave $1 million; PVH, the parent company of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, gave $50,000; and hundreds of small donors, many anonymous, have been giving between $5 and $25.A Common Thread began as a repurposing of the fund-raising the CFDA and Vogue engaged in for their Fashion Fund prize, and since then, it has been augmented by donations: Ralph Lauren gave $1 million; PVH, the parent company of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, gave $50,000; and hundreds of small donors, many anonymous, have been giving between $5 and $25.
“I’ve been so moved and touched by the generosity,” Ms. Wintour said. “When Ralph called to tell me of his contribution, I just burst into tears. To have him step in and help us get started had been such a vote of support. And then there were hundreds of small donations, that just break your heart. There have been participants in past Fashion Funds who returned their money from last year who didn’t want their names mentioned. They just said, ‘We are in this together.’”“I’ve been so moved and touched by the generosity,” Ms. Wintour said. “When Ralph called to tell me of his contribution, I just burst into tears. To have him step in and help us get started had been such a vote of support. And then there were hundreds of small donations, that just break your heart. There have been participants in past Fashion Funds who returned their money from last year who didn’t want their names mentioned. They just said, ‘We are in this together.’”
Updated June 16, 2020Updated June 16, 2020
The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth.
The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave.The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave.
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.
The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.
Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission.Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission.
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.
The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.
Jonathan Cohen, a designer who is known for his joyful prints and conscious upcycling, was a runner-up for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2018. He applied for both a small business loan ($200,000) and the A Common Thread grant for $100,000.Jonathan Cohen, a designer who is known for his joyful prints and conscious upcycling, was a runner-up for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2018. He applied for both a small business loan ($200,000) and the A Common Thread grant for $100,000.
“The difference on this application was focusing on how we were affected, as well as what we need to keep going,” he wrote in an email.“The difference on this application was focusing on how we were affected, as well as what we need to keep going,” he wrote in an email.
Mr. Cohen was in San Diego, where he moved to be with his family. It is the first time he has lived at home since he was 19 (he is now 34) and the first time he and his business partner, Sarah Leff, have been separated since starting their business in 2011.Mr. Cohen was in San Diego, where he moved to be with his family. It is the first time he has lived at home since he was 19 (he is now 34) and the first time he and his business partner, Sarah Leff, have been separated since starting their business in 2011.
“At this time, we are paying all expenses out of personal pocket,” he wrote, adding that normally he would have payments from stores for spring-summer merchandise but that most of that money was now on hold and not likely to arrive for months (if at all). “A Common Thread would be very helpful to cover immediate expenses, as well as plan the next six-eight months. For the S.B.A., it is very unclear when/how much money we will get.”“At this time, we are paying all expenses out of personal pocket,” he wrote, adding that normally he would have payments from stores for spring-summer merchandise but that most of that money was now on hold and not likely to arrive for months (if at all). “A Common Thread would be very helpful to cover immediate expenses, as well as plan the next six-eight months. For the S.B.A., it is very unclear when/how much money we will get.”
Mr. Kolb said he expected to be able to award money to 10 percent of the applicants. Those who do not receive funds in the first round, which is earmarked for those in the most immediate need, will be automatically included in the next round. He expects most grants to range between $25,000 and $75,000. (He estimates that $2 million will be disbursed.)Mr. Kolb said he expected to be able to award money to 10 percent of the applicants. Those who do not receive funds in the first round, which is earmarked for those in the most immediate need, will be automatically included in the next round. He expects most grants to range between $25,000 and $75,000. (He estimates that $2 million will be disbursed.)
“We’re not naïve about this,” Ms. Wintour said. “We know we can’t help everybody. And maybe some of the people we do help won’t make it. But we wanted to show there is a support system in fashion. That there is a future.”“We’re not naïve about this,” Ms. Wintour said. “We know we can’t help everybody. And maybe some of the people we do help won’t make it. But we wanted to show there is a support system in fashion. That there is a future.”