'In Poland, Communist-Era Restaurants Are Perfect for the Moment' diff viewer (11/12)

This article is from the source 'nytimes' and was first published or seen on April 21, 2020 16:37 (UTC). It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.

You can find the current article at its original source at https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/21/dining/milk-bar-mleczny-poland.html

The article has changed 31 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.

Previous version 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 Next version

Previous version 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 Next version

Version 11	Version 12
In Poland, Communist-Era Restaurants Are Perfect for the Moment	In Poland, Communist-Era Restaurants Are Perfect for the Moment
2020-06-24 14:08:42 UTC	2020-07-02 18:58:44 UTC (8 days later)
WARSAW — The Polish milk bar is remarkably well suited to the coronavirus lockdown.	WARSAW — The Polish milk bar is remarkably well suited to the coronavirus lockdown.
At these traditional restaurants, diners can pick up orders of ready-made pierogi or get home delivery of the familiar comfort of a barszcz beet soup and stuffed cabbage, to warm in the oven. Much of the menu comes at spectacularly low prices, thanks to the government subsidies that the milk bars receive.	At these traditional restaurants, diners can pick up orders of ready-made pierogi or get home delivery of the familiar comfort of a barszcz beet soup and stuffed cabbage, to warm in the oven. Much of the menu comes at spectacularly low prices, thanks to the government subsidies that the milk bars receive.
“People are struggling with an extremely difficult situation right now,” Kamil Hagemajer, who co-owns one of the most famous milk bars in Warsaw, Bar Prasowy, wrote in an email. “It seems our world has been built on very fragile foundations.”	“People are struggling with an extremely difficult situation right now,” Kamil Hagemajer, who co-owns one of the most famous milk bars in Warsaw, Bar Prasowy, wrote in an email. “It seems our world has been built on very fragile foundations.”
But even before the lockdown, milk bars — so called because they were historically vegetarian — straddled a strange divide in Polish society. Somewhere between a diner and a soup kitchen, they are both hip and vital. They offer both Communist nostalgia and Communist-era prices; even the most eyes-bigger-than-stomach customer will struggle to run a bill of more than $5.	But even before the lockdown, milk bars — so called because they were historically vegetarian — straddled a strange divide in Polish society. Somewhere between a diner and a soup kitchen, they are both hip and vital. They offer both Communist nostalgia and Communist-era prices; even the most eyes-bigger-than-stomach customer will struggle to run a bill of more than $5.
“They are especially needed right now,” Jan Binczycki, a librarian at the Malopolska Public Library in Krakow, said over lunch at that city’s Bar Gornik in February, before the nationwide lockdown and the closing of restaurant dining rooms. “We have a lot of problems with things like gentrification and social stratification. Milk bars are at the front lines of the fight between old and new.”	“They are especially needed right now,” Jan Binczycki, a librarian at the Malopolska Public Library in Krakow, said over lunch at that city’s Bar Gornik in February, before the nationwide lockdown and the closing of restaurant dining rooms. “We have a lot of problems with things like gentrification and social stratification. Milk bars are at the front lines of the fight between old and new.”
Under Communism, they were a forced staple, some of the only places to eat out. But in the years after the old order fell in 1989, international chain restaurants arrived en masse. Poles flocked to try McDonald’s cheeseburgers, kebabs and Vietnamese food, while milk bars came to be seen as a grim reminder of a past pockmarked with scarcity and oppression. Today, there are only a few hundred left, down from thousands in their heyday.	Under Communism, they were a forced staple, some of the only places to eat out. But in the years after the old order fell in 1989, international chain restaurants arrived en masse. Poles flocked to try McDonald’s cheeseburgers, kebabs and Vietnamese food, while milk bars came to be seen as a grim reminder of a past pockmarked with scarcity and oppression. Today, there are only a few hundred left, down from thousands in their heyday.
But in the past decade, milk bars have grown popular again as people seek out familiar food as a way to connect with the past and fashion a contemporary Polish identity.	But in the past decade, milk bars have grown popular again as people seek out familiar food as a way to connect with the past and fashion a contemporary Polish identity.
“Being part of the world once meant having access to the world’s food,” said Fabio Parasecoli, the director of the food studies doctoral program at New York University, who is researching changing attitudes toward traditional Polish foods. “But now, being cosmopolitan means rediscovering one’s traditions.”	“Being part of the world once meant having access to the world’s food,” said Fabio Parasecoli, the director of the food studies doctoral program at New York University, who is researching changing attitudes toward traditional Polish foods. “But now, being cosmopolitan means rediscovering one’s traditions.”
Before the virus hit, a line formed at Bar Bambino, one of the most popular lunch spots in Warsaw, at 11 a.m. and didn’t let up until 2 p.m., as residents of the Polish capital sought a quick bite of cheap, comforting food. Older men, their beards flecked with soup, ate near young parents whose children had spilled food down their sweaters. Artists scrolled through their Instagram feeds while office workers, their ties flipped over their shoulders, ate with one hand and emailed with the other.	Before the virus hit, a line formed at Bar Bambino, one of the most popular lunch spots in Warsaw, at 11 a.m. and didn’t let up until 2 p.m., as residents of the Polish capital sought a quick bite of cheap, comforting food. Older men, their beards flecked with soup, ate near young parents whose children had spilled food down their sweaters. Artists scrolled through their Instagram feeds while office workers, their ties flipped over their shoulders, ate with one hand and emailed with the other.
Recipes are as traditional as they come. There’s zurek, a soup made from fermented rye, and barszcz, the beet soup served with dumplings or sour cream. There are scores of different pierogi: spinach and mushroom, potato and cheese. Kompot, a fruit drink, is popular with older people trying to warm up in winter. And the vegetarian offerings are cheaper, thanks to government subsidies.	Recipes are as traditional as they come. There’s zurek, a soup made from fermented rye, and barszcz, the beet soup served with dumplings or sour cream. There are scores of different pierogi: spinach and mushroom, potato and cheese. Kompot, a fruit drink, is popular with older people trying to warm up in winter. And the vegetarian offerings are cheaper, thanks to government subsidies.
Before the lockdown, milk bar diners ordered at one window and collected their plates from another. There were no waiters. There were no tablecloths. If you forgot to pick up your order, the chefs might have called it out over a loudspeaker, high-school cafeteria style.	Before the lockdown, milk bar diners ordered at one window and collected their plates from another. There were no waiters. There were no tablecloths. If you forgot to pick up your order, the chefs might have called it out over a loudspeaker, high-school cafeteria style.
“It can be a turnoff for people to have mismatched plates,” said Anna Gidynska, a food writer who publishes a popular lifestyle blog. “But I wouldn’t expect perfect plating at my mom’s home, so I wouldn’t expect it here, either.”	“It can be a turnoff for people to have mismatched plates,” said Anna Gidynska, a food writer who publishes a popular lifestyle blog. “But I wouldn’t expect perfect plating at my mom’s home, so I wouldn’t expect it here, either.”
Milk bars predate Communist rule in Poland, but they are strongly associated with that era, and a rising nostalgia has recently renewed interest in the restaurants. Even though those years were difficult, many people miss what milk bars represent: an egalitarian, distinctly Polish place.	Milk bars predate Communist rule in Poland, but they are strongly associated with that era, and a rising nostalgia has recently renewed interest in the restaurants. Even though those years were difficult, many people miss what milk bars represent: an egalitarian, distinctly Polish place.
This mix of traditional and modern is on full display at Bar Prasowy. Once, it was a go-to lunch spot for journalists at a nearby newspaper, the greasiest of greasy spoons. After 1989, it fell into disrepair. But when the city tried to close the space in 2011, neighborhood residents staged something of a squatters’ rebellion, serving free food and chanting anti-gentrification slogans, Mr. Hagemajer said.	This mix of traditional and modern is on full display at Bar Prasowy. Once, it was a go-to lunch spot for journalists at a nearby newspaper, the greasiest of greasy spoons. After 1989, it fell into disrepair. But when the city tried to close the space in 2011, neighborhood residents staged something of a squatters’ rebellion, serving free food and chanting anti-gentrification slogans, Mr. Hagemajer said.
Mr. Hagemajer took over and redesigned Bar Prasowy. Today, it has the same low prices and foods it did before the protest. But it is sleek and hip. Eastern Bloc-era accessories dot a modern interior. Much of the produce comes from local farmers.	Mr. Hagemajer took over and redesigned Bar Prasowy. Today, it has the same low prices and foods it did before the protest. But it is sleek and hip. Eastern Bloc-era accessories dot a modern interior. Much of the produce comes from local farmers.
“I am fond of Polish cuisine, but it’s vanishing,” said Robert Witecki, its chef. “Too often, people go to fast food restaurants. No one else wants to keep the tradition alive.”	“I am fond of Polish cuisine, but it’s vanishing,” said Robert Witecki, its chef. “Too often, people go to fast food restaurants. No one else wants to keep the tradition alive.”
Mr. Hagemajer added, “We wanted to create a place that was modern, one with roots in Communism, but with a modern quality.”	Mr. Hagemajer added, “We wanted to create a place that was modern, one with roots in Communism, but with a modern quality.”
Such yearnings are not unique to Poland. In fact, “Red nostalgia” has swept across the former Warsaw Pact countries. In what was East Germany, “ostalgie” — a portmanteau of the words for “east” and “nostalgia” — is alive and well in tourism, fashion and nightclubs. In Bulgaria, many women yearn for a time when they were compensated by the state for domestic work.	Such yearnings are not unique to Poland. In fact, “Red nostalgia” has swept across the former Warsaw Pact countries. In what was East Germany, “ostalgie” — a portmanteau of the words for “east” and “nostalgia” — is alive and well in tourism, fashion and nightclubs. In Bulgaria, many women yearn for a time when they were compensated by the state for domestic work.
“It is a kind of longing for the kind of sociality that existed under socialism, a feeling that these places represented a less-divided Poland,” said Kristen R. Ghodsee, a professor of Russian and Eastern European studies at the University of Pennsylvania, who has written extensively on the subject.	“It is a kind of longing for the kind of sociality that existed under socialism, a feeling that these places represented a less-divided Poland,” said Kristen R. Ghodsee, a professor of Russian and Eastern European studies at the University of Pennsylvania, who has written extensively on the subject.
~~Updated June ~~24,~~ 2020~~	Updated June 30, 2020
	Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles.	Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles.
A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico.	A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico.
The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth.	The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth.
The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave.	The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave.
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.	So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.	Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.	A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.
The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.	The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)	If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.	If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
Some this is pure performance: Many milk bar patrons born after 1989 come as historical voyeurs, hooked on a bygone aesthetic.	Some this is pure performance: Many milk bar patrons born after 1989 come as historical voyeurs, hooked on a bygone aesthetic.
“They have a certain feel of coolness about them,” said Dr. Parasecoli of N.Y.U. “It’s the hipster projection of what the milk bar experience was. They can look at it with detachment and irony because they didn’t live through a time when the milk bar was a necessity.”	“They have a certain feel of coolness about them,” said Dr. Parasecoli of N.Y.U. “It’s the hipster projection of what the milk bar experience was. They can look at it with detachment and irony because they didn’t live through a time when the milk bar was a necessity.”
But there’s something else. Milk bars are not just peddling a fantasy of the past: The cuisine is an intimate tie to Polish cultural history.	But there’s something else. Milk bars are not just peddling a fantasy of the past: The cuisine is an intimate tie to Polish cultural history.
For Michal Turecki, a food reviewer for the popular website Street Food Polska, a milk bar near his grandmother’s old apartment in Krakow is an essential part of his memories. The milk bar, Bar Mleczny Krakus, has served potato pancakes every Thursday, for as long as he can remember. Before his grandmother died three years ago, they would often go together. When she was sick, he got takeout for them to eat together in her home.	For Michal Turecki, a food reviewer for the popular website Street Food Polska, a milk bar near his grandmother’s old apartment in Krakow is an essential part of his memories. The milk bar, Bar Mleczny Krakus, has served potato pancakes every Thursday, for as long as he can remember. Before his grandmother died three years ago, they would often go together. When she was sick, he got takeout for them to eat together in her home.
“If you want to taste real Polish home cuisine, it’s better to come here,” said Mr. Turecki, 33, slowly chewing those pancakes over lunch in February. “You don’t even get food like this at home.”	“If you want to taste real Polish home cuisine, it’s better to come here,” said Mr. Turecki, 33, slowly chewing those pancakes over lunch in February. “You don’t even get food like this at home.”
For many people opposed to the nation’s current far-right populist government, there’s a reluctance to fly a Polish flag or march in parades for the country, said Monika Kucia, a food writer and artist based in Warsaw.	For many people opposed to the nation’s current far-right populist government, there’s a reluctance to fly a Polish flag or march in parades for the country, said Monika Kucia, a food writer and artist based in Warsaw.