This article is from the source 'nytimes' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.
You can find the current article at its original source at https://www.nytimes.com/2020/05/08/nyregion/small-farms-ny-coronavirus.html
The article has changed 28 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.
Previous version
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
Next version
Version 5 | Version 6 |
---|---|
Small Farms in N.Y. Are Experiencing a Surprising Boom. Here’s Why. | Small Farms in N.Y. Are Experiencing a Surprising Boom. Here’s Why. |
(about 20 hours later) | |
One Wednesday in early March, Abra Morawiec realized something seismic was happening at her farm stand. The month had been pretty quiet at the Feisty Acres table in the Union Square Greenmarket in Manhattan. But that day, at the very start of social distancing, she had sold out of everything by 2 p.m. | One Wednesday in early March, Abra Morawiec realized something seismic was happening at her farm stand. The month had been pretty quiet at the Feisty Acres table in the Union Square Greenmarket in Manhattan. But that day, at the very start of social distancing, she had sold out of everything by 2 p.m. |
“I had to go home three hours early,” Ms. Morawiec said. After wondering whether her small farm on the North Fork of Long Island would survive the pandemic, this was good news. | “I had to go home three hours early,” Ms. Morawiec said. After wondering whether her small farm on the North Fork of Long Island would survive the pandemic, this was good news. |
But the boom for Feisty Acres has coincided with a virtual collapse at large-scale operations like Crescent Duck Farm, also based on Long Island. In operation for more than a century, Crescent produces a million ducks a year — about 4 percent of the industry total — and was the supplier of choice for fine-dining restaurants in New York, including Jean-Georges and the River Cafe. Those restaurants are closed now, and Crescent has been forced to lay off 80 percent of its workers. | But the boom for Feisty Acres has coincided with a virtual collapse at large-scale operations like Crescent Duck Farm, also based on Long Island. In operation for more than a century, Crescent produces a million ducks a year — about 4 percent of the industry total — and was the supplier of choice for fine-dining restaurants in New York, including Jean-Georges and the River Cafe. Those restaurants are closed now, and Crescent has been forced to lay off 80 percent of its workers. |
When the lockdown came to the metropolitan area, the earth shifted under New York’s farm-to-table supply chain. All farms are reckoning with the disappearance of the restaurant market and the logistics of getting food directly to consumers. But the agricultural landscape has completely reversed. | When the lockdown came to the metropolitan area, the earth shifted under New York’s farm-to-table supply chain. All farms are reckoning with the disappearance of the restaurant market and the logistics of getting food directly to consumers. But the agricultural landscape has completely reversed. |
Farms with a single crop meant for use in restaurants, like microgreens or edible flowers, face disaster, while those with diverse offerings (and especially root vegetables) have become bulwarks of the social order. After decades of struggle to prove they are sustainable businesses, small farms seem to be flourishing, while factory farms, in many cases, find themselves too big to pivot. | Farms with a single crop meant for use in restaurants, like microgreens or edible flowers, face disaster, while those with diverse offerings (and especially root vegetables) have become bulwarks of the social order. After decades of struggle to prove they are sustainable businesses, small farms seem to be flourishing, while factory farms, in many cases, find themselves too big to pivot. |
Blue Star Farm, a 10-acre operation in the Hudson Valley north of New York City, is feeling a kind of uncomfortable success since Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo issued a stay-at-home order. The farm’s sales have increased during the quarantine. | Blue Star Farm, a 10-acre operation in the Hudson Valley north of New York City, is feeling a kind of uncomfortable success since Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo issued a stay-at-home order. The farm’s sales have increased during the quarantine. |
Blue Star sells at a weekend farmers’ market in Hudson, N.Y., that was a social hub before the pandemic, and is now on the front line for feeding the community. “We thought we’d feel the pinch of losing the restaurant business, but we’re hitting demand now that we would usually see in July,” said Mark Decker, who owns the farm with his wife, Susan. “Our sales are up 25 or 30 percent from what we would normally do this time of year. | Blue Star sells at a weekend farmers’ market in Hudson, N.Y., that was a social hub before the pandemic, and is now on the front line for feeding the community. “We thought we’d feel the pinch of losing the restaurant business, but we’re hitting demand now that we would usually see in July,” said Mark Decker, who owns the farm with his wife, Susan. “Our sales are up 25 or 30 percent from what we would normally do this time of year. |
“The market opens at 9 a.m., and one day we sold out by 12:15,” he added. “I told Sue it’s lucky she didn’t take the dog.” | “The market opens at 9 a.m., and one day we sold out by 12:15,” he added. “I told Sue it’s lucky she didn’t take the dog.” |
Because they have been able to shift their sales directly to consumers — at farmers’ markets and through C.S.A. subscriptions — farms like Blue Star and Feisty Acres are ideally suited to survive a pandemic. | Because they have been able to shift their sales directly to consumers — at farmers’ markets and through C.S.A. subscriptions — farms like Blue Star and Feisty Acres are ideally suited to survive a pandemic. |
A C.S.A. (community-supported agriculture) program — which essentially allows people to buy shares in a farm’s produce before it is harvested — has been vital to the success of Sang Lee, an 80-acre organic farm in Southold on Long Island. The farm is known for its salad greens, organic vegetables, and hard-to-find radishes, ginger and bok choy. | A C.S.A. (community-supported agriculture) program — which essentially allows people to buy shares in a farm’s produce before it is harvested — has been vital to the success of Sang Lee, an 80-acre organic farm in Southold on Long Island. The farm is known for its salad greens, organic vegetables, and hard-to-find radishes, ginger and bok choy. |
Lucy Senesac, a manager at Sang Lee, said the farm has been inundated since mid-March, when throngs of New Yorkers headed to second homes on Long Island. “Insane crowds,” she said. “Everyone is out on the North Fork all of a sudden, and everyone wants vegetables, more than we can supply,” she said. “It’s hard managing all the phone calls. I’m having to hide a little bit.” | Lucy Senesac, a manager at Sang Lee, said the farm has been inundated since mid-March, when throngs of New Yorkers headed to second homes on Long Island. “Insane crowds,” she said. “Everyone is out on the North Fork all of a sudden, and everyone wants vegetables, more than we can supply,” she said. “It’s hard managing all the phone calls. I’m having to hide a little bit.” |
The crowds at the Sang Lee farm stand were so large that Ms. Senesac decided to close it. She retooled the farm’s website to offer pickup options, so customers could show up, immediately get their vegetables and go home. | The crowds at the Sang Lee farm stand were so large that Ms. Senesac decided to close it. She retooled the farm’s website to offer pickup options, so customers could show up, immediately get their vegetables and go home. |
Before the pandemic hit, Norwich Meadows, a 230-acre farm three and a half hours north of New York City, sent most of its organic fruits and vegetables to restaurants; the rest went to farmers’ markets and its C.S.A. It is not a small farm, but the wide variety of crops it offers has saved it. | Before the pandemic hit, Norwich Meadows, a 230-acre farm three and a half hours north of New York City, sent most of its organic fruits and vegetables to restaurants; the rest went to farmers’ markets and its C.S.A. It is not a small farm, but the wide variety of crops it offers has saved it. |
“We don’t mess around,” said Zaid Kurdieh, the owner of Norwich Meadows, on his approach to planting a huge number of crops, including ground cherries, an addictive, candy-sweet tomato that he helped establish as a garnish at chef-forward restaurants. | “We don’t mess around,” said Zaid Kurdieh, the owner of Norwich Meadows, on his approach to planting a huge number of crops, including ground cherries, an addictive, candy-sweet tomato that he helped establish as a garnish at chef-forward restaurants. |
Now that few chefs are looking for clever garnishes, Norwich Farms has come to rely on the Union Square Greenmarket to sell sunchokes, daikon radish, lettuce and purple carrots. It also has developed a robust delivery service. Near the farmers’ market, in the now-shuttered restaurant Loring Place, furloughed cooks, bartenders and waiters assemble boxes of produce for delivery to Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan and suburban Westchester County. | Now that few chefs are looking for clever garnishes, Norwich Farms has come to rely on the Union Square Greenmarket to sell sunchokes, daikon radish, lettuce and purple carrots. It also has developed a robust delivery service. Near the farmers’ market, in the now-shuttered restaurant Loring Place, furloughed cooks, bartenders and waiters assemble boxes of produce for delivery to Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan and suburban Westchester County. |
Mr. Kurdieh has also expanded his C.S.A., transitioning in three weeks from offering a box of vegetables and recipes to a market box that includes his produce and products from other Union Square Greenmarket vendors. | Mr. Kurdieh has also expanded his C.S.A., transitioning in three weeks from offering a box of vegetables and recipes to a market box that includes his produce and products from other Union Square Greenmarket vendors. |
His success hinges on his six- and 12-month subscriptions boxes, which provide cash for Norwich Farms to plant, harvest and distribute in the coming season. Mr. Kurdieh said it was promising that 400 customers signed up in the first three weeks. | His success hinges on his six- and 12-month subscriptions boxes, which provide cash for Norwich Farms to plant, harvest and distribute in the coming season. Mr. Kurdieh said it was promising that 400 customers signed up in the first three weeks. |
Recalibrating has proved considerably more difficult for commercial operations like Crescent Duck Farm. | Recalibrating has proved considerably more difficult for commercial operations like Crescent Duck Farm. |
In early February, weeks before there were any known Covid-19 cases on Long Island, Doug Corwin began to scale back production at Crescent, where his family has raised birds since 1908. He had been closely following news about the outbreak in China. | In early February, weeks before there were any known Covid-19 cases on Long Island, Doug Corwin began to scale back production at Crescent, where his family has raised birds since 1908. He had been closely following news about the outbreak in China. |
“When I saw them building that hospital in Wuhan, I started reducing my supplies of breeding stock and eggs,” Mr. Corwin said. “The last thing I want is to have product stuck in the freezer. All the better chefs only want it fresh.” | “When I saw them building that hospital in Wuhan, I started reducing my supplies of breeding stock and eggs,” Mr. Corwin said. “The last thing I want is to have product stuck in the freezer. All the better chefs only want it fresh.” |
When an employee tested positive for the coronavirus, Mr. Corwin, unable to provide safe work conditions, shut down production on March 30 and laid off 47 unionized workers — more than 80 percent of his employees. | When an employee tested positive for the coronavirus, Mr. Corwin, unable to provide safe work conditions, shut down production on March 30 and laid off 47 unionized workers — more than 80 percent of his employees. |
Updated June 5, 2020 | Updated June 5, 2020 |
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement. | |
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. | A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study. |
The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April. | The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April. |
Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission. | Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission. |
Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home. | Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home. |
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people. | States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people. |
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. | Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks. |
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. | Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days. |
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) | If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.) |
Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications. | Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications. |
The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing. | The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing. |
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. | If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others. |
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested. | If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested. |
“I’m thankful that I stopped it when I did,” he said. “We had one person test positive, and now she’s fine.” | “I’m thankful that I stopped it when I did,” he said. “We had one person test positive, and now she’s fine.” |
Mr. Corwin says an operation the size of his can’t make it on retail sales alone, even when the demand for fresh meat on Long Island has risen to height-of the-summer levels. Currently, one of Crescent’s best customers is Miloski’s, a poultry farm and meat store in Calverton known for its rotisserie duck to-go. “Miloski has gone from buying 10 boxes a week to 25 boxes a week,” he said. “But I need to sell 3,000 a week.” | Mr. Corwin says an operation the size of his can’t make it on retail sales alone, even when the demand for fresh meat on Long Island has risen to height-of the-summer levels. Currently, one of Crescent’s best customers is Miloski’s, a poultry farm and meat store in Calverton known for its rotisserie duck to-go. “Miloski has gone from buying 10 boxes a week to 25 boxes a week,” he said. “But I need to sell 3,000 a week.” |
Mr. Corwin said the presidential executive order invoking the Defense Production Act to keep meat processing plants open was encouraging. He is retrofitting his plant with Plexiglas partitions, and has gloves and masks on order, and is hoping to bring back his workers and reopen in early summer. | Mr. Corwin said the presidential executive order invoking the Defense Production Act to keep meat processing plants open was encouraging. He is retrofitting his plant with Plexiglas partitions, and has gloves and masks on order, and is hoping to bring back his workers and reopen in early summer. |
But for that to happen, his restaurant clients must reopen and start serving duck again. “Let’s hope that the powers that be have the foresight for what’s best for us,” Mr. Corwin said, “so we can climb out of this.” | But for that to happen, his restaurant clients must reopen and start serving duck again. “Let’s hope that the powers that be have the foresight for what’s best for us,” Mr. Corwin said, “so we can climb out of this.” |
But adaptation is possible, even for the narrowest of farms. | But adaptation is possible, even for the narrowest of farms. |
Taylor Knapp is the proprietor of Peconic Escargot, a Long Island farm that supplied restaurants with the rarest of luxuries — fresh snails. | Taylor Knapp is the proprietor of Peconic Escargot, a Long Island farm that supplied restaurants with the rarest of luxuries — fresh snails. |
The snail market, no surprise, has collapsed. But Mr. Knapp is also a chef. So over a weekend, he turned his pop-up dinners, held in empty restaurants, into a fine-dining takeout in the parking lot of a former inn. Customers pop the trunk just long enough to receive a six-course meal, a votive candle and a long-stem rose. | The snail market, no surprise, has collapsed. But Mr. Knapp is also a chef. So over a weekend, he turned his pop-up dinners, held in empty restaurants, into a fine-dining takeout in the parking lot of a former inn. Customers pop the trunk just long enough to receive a six-course meal, a votive candle and a long-stem rose. |
The snail farm is on pause. “Thankfully, the creatures we raise have a five-year life span,” Mr. Knapp said. “I don’t think we are at risk of closing, but even if restaurants reopen in June, fine dining is going to be changed — if not forever, for a very long time.” | The snail farm is on pause. “Thankfully, the creatures we raise have a five-year life span,” Mr. Knapp said. “I don’t think we are at risk of closing, but even if restaurants reopen in June, fine dining is going to be changed — if not forever, for a very long time.” |