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Amazon to the Rescue of the Fashion World! Amazon to the Rescue of the Fashion World!
(about 11 hours later)
Finally, Jeff Bezos is really in fashion.Finally, Jeff Bezos is really in fashion.
On Thursday, Amazon rode to the rescue of the beleaguered American industry — or at least one particularly challenged and particularly notable subsection: independent high-end designers.On Thursday, Amazon rode to the rescue of the beleaguered American industry — or at least one particularly challenged and particularly notable subsection: independent high-end designers.
Along with Vogue and the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the e-commerce giant announced the unveiling of “Common Threads: Vogue x Amazon Fashion,” a new storefront featuring 20 buzzy creative names, including Batsheva Hay, Brock Collection, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Edie Parker.Along with Vogue and the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the e-commerce giant announced the unveiling of “Common Threads: Vogue x Amazon Fashion,” a new storefront featuring 20 buzzy creative names, including Batsheva Hay, Brock Collection, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Edie Parker.
“I’m thrilled to announce this partnership, and want to thank Amazon Fashion, not only for its generous support of ‘A Common Thread,’ but also for so quickly sharing its resources to aid American designers affected by the pandemic,” said Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue and Condé Nast’s artistic director.“I’m thrilled to announce this partnership, and want to thank Amazon Fashion, not only for its generous support of ‘A Common Thread,’ but also for so quickly sharing its resources to aid American designers affected by the pandemic,” said Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue and Condé Nast’s artistic director.
“While there isn’t one simple fix for our industry, which has been hit so hard, I believe this is an important step in the right direction.”“While there isn’t one simple fix for our industry, which has been hit so hard, I believe this is an important step in the right direction.”
The move will create a new outlet for brands that are currently at risk of bankruptcy after Covid-19 forced the closing of the stores that sell them, resulting in canceled orders and piles of unsold stock. Even luxury e-tailers like Net-a-Porter have had to close their warehouses.The move will create a new outlet for brands that are currently at risk of bankruptcy after Covid-19 forced the closing of the stores that sell them, resulting in canceled orders and piles of unsold stock. Even luxury e-tailers like Net-a-Porter have had to close their warehouses.
But it also positions Amazon, which may be the largest fashion retailer in the United States but is often seen as, if not an enemy, at least a questionable suitor when it comes to the designer world, as its white knight. And the move gives Mr. Bezos a certain sway over a community that, until now, was largely suspicious of him.But it also positions Amazon, which may be the largest fashion retailer in the United States but is often seen as, if not an enemy, at least a questionable suitor when it comes to the designer world, as its white knight. And the move gives Mr. Bezos a certain sway over a community that, until now, was largely suspicious of him.
In other words, he is not an entirely selfless savior. There’s something, and potentially a lot, in it for him.In other words, he is not an entirely selfless savior. There’s something, and potentially a lot, in it for him.
Even before he stood next to Ms. Wintour in his Tom Ford tuxedo as a co-host of the Met Gala in 2012, Mr. Bezos had his eye on the shiniest, most eyeball-attracting part of the apparel sector.Even before he stood next to Ms. Wintour in his Tom Ford tuxedo as a co-host of the Met Gala in 2012, Mr. Bezos had his eye on the shiniest, most eyeball-attracting part of the apparel sector.
But the ethos of Amazon — “the everything store” — has never mixed well with that of the fashion week flock, which may best be characterized as “only a few, very special, things,” just as its shopping “environment” never seemed sufficiently glamorous to many luxury brands. Though their products were sold on the Amazon-owned Zappos or Shopbop, those brands shied away from being sucked into the parent company’s maw.But the ethos of Amazon — “the everything store” — has never mixed well with that of the fashion week flock, which may best be characterized as “only a few, very special, things,” just as its shopping “environment” never seemed sufficiently glamorous to many luxury brands. Though their products were sold on the Amazon-owned Zappos or Shopbop, those brands shied away from being sucked into the parent company’s maw.
That did not stop Amazon from trying. In 2011, the company introduced myhabit.com, a flash sale site meant to compete with sites like Gilt Groupe. That closed in 2016, the year after Amazon teamed up with the CFDA to sponsor the first New York Men’s Fashion Week (a relationship that ended in 2017). That same year Amazon Fashion went all-in with private label clothing, a category that now includes 111 different labels and 22,617 products, according to a new report from Coresight Research.That did not stop Amazon from trying. In 2011, the company introduced myhabit.com, a flash sale site meant to compete with sites like Gilt Groupe. That closed in 2016, the year after Amazon teamed up with the CFDA to sponsor the first New York Men’s Fashion Week (a relationship that ended in 2017). That same year Amazon Fashion went all-in with private label clothing, a category that now includes 111 different labels and 22,617 products, according to a new report from Coresight Research.
On an investor call in 2016, Jean-Jacques Guiony, the chief financial officer of LVMH, the largest luxury group on the world, announced: “We believe that the existing business of Amazon doesn’t fit our luxury, full stop, but also doesn’t fit with our brands. If they change the business model, I don’t know, but with the existing business model, there is no way we can do business with them for the time being.”On an investor call in 2016, Jean-Jacques Guiony, the chief financial officer of LVMH, the largest luxury group on the world, announced: “We believe that the existing business of Amazon doesn’t fit our luxury, full stop, but also doesn’t fit with our brands. If they change the business model, I don’t know, but with the existing business model, there is no way we can do business with them for the time being.”
Still, WWD reported in January that Amazon was planning a new luxury platform to compete with the Alibaba Tmall, along with a $100 million marketing campaign; and as recently as February, Mr. Bezos was at Paris Fashion Week celebrating Diane von Furstenberg’s Légion d’Honneur with Ms. Wintour and designers like Christian Louboutin.Still, WWD reported in January that Amazon was planning a new luxury platform to compete with the Alibaba Tmall, along with a $100 million marketing campaign; and as recently as February, Mr. Bezos was at Paris Fashion Week celebrating Diane von Furstenberg’s Légion d’Honneur with Ms. Wintour and designers like Christian Louboutin.
Now the novel coronavirus pandemic has changed the playing field.Now the novel coronavirus pandemic has changed the playing field.
Amazon, Ms. Hay said, “is the one place everyone is shopping.” (Indeed, Mr. Bezos is potentially on his way to becoming the world’s first trillionaire because of it.) Whether they like it or not, designers, especially small ones, have no real choice. They need to move their existing inventory, and they need a partner with the logistics to do it. And one that has access to an enormous ready-made consumer base.Amazon, Ms. Hay said, “is the one place everyone is shopping.” (Indeed, Mr. Bezos is potentially on his way to becoming the world’s first trillionaire because of it.) Whether they like it or not, designers, especially small ones, have no real choice. They need to move their existing inventory, and they need a partner with the logistics to do it. And one that has access to an enormous ready-made consumer base.
The idea for the storefront came out of an initiative created by Vogue and the CFDA, who have been working together on ways to support the industry through the pandemic. Last month they announced the Common Thread grant program, raising over $4 million to be disbursed in small increments to designers, retailers, garment manufacturers, as well as the fashion support system to help them survive until reopening.The idea for the storefront came out of an initiative created by Vogue and the CFDA, who have been working together on ways to support the industry through the pandemic. Last month they announced the Common Thread grant program, raising over $4 million to be disbursed in small increments to designers, retailers, garment manufacturers, as well as the fashion support system to help them survive until reopening.
Amazon is donating $500,000 to the fund (for which many of the designers it will sell have also applied), and when Amazon asked how else it could help, the storefront idea was born.Amazon is donating $500,000 to the fund (for which many of the designers it will sell have also applied), and when Amazon asked how else it could help, the storefront idea was born.
As to what exactly it is: The designers can choose what inventory to sell on Amazon (most likely a mix of current and past stock), and they control their own pricing and imagery. They can opt to use Amazon’s fulfillment platform or do the fulfillment themselves. The standard third party selling fees — typically around 17 percent — apply. According to one participant, however, Amazon agreed to eliminate monthly fees, warehouse fees and packaging fees for the initiative.As to what exactly it is: The designers can choose what inventory to sell on Amazon (most likely a mix of current and past stock), and they control their own pricing and imagery. They can opt to use Amazon’s fulfillment platform or do the fulfillment themselves. The standard third party selling fees — typically around 17 percent — apply. According to one participant, however, Amazon agreed to eliminate monthly fees, warehouse fees and packaging fees for the initiative.
Vogue and the CFDA initially approached most of the designers about the deal because, as Ms. Hay pointed out, Amazon “doesn’t have much of a relationship with many of these brands.”Vogue and the CFDA initially approached most of the designers about the deal because, as Ms. Hay pointed out, Amazon “doesn’t have much of a relationship with many of these brands.”
Now, of course, that will change. “It does feel like lot of things are shifting in the world,” she said.Now, of course, that will change. “It does feel like lot of things are shifting in the world,” she said.
Updated May 28, 2020 Updated June 1, 2020
Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
More than 40 million people — the equivalent of 1 in 4 U.S. workers — have filed for unemployment benefits since the pandemic took hold. One in five who were working in February reported losing a job or being furloughed in March or the beginning of April, data from a Federal Reserve survey released on May 14 showed, and that pain was highly concentrated among low earners. Fully 39 percent of former workers living in a household earning $40,000 or less lost work, compared with 13 percent in those making more than $100,000, a Fed official said.More than 40 million people — the equivalent of 1 in 4 U.S. workers — have filed for unemployment benefits since the pandemic took hold. One in five who were working in February reported losing a job or being furloughed in March or the beginning of April, data from a Federal Reserve survey released on May 14 showed, and that pain was highly concentrated among low earners. Fully 39 percent of former workers living in a household earning $40,000 or less lost work, compared with 13 percent in those making more than $100,000, a Fed official said.
There is an uptick in people reporting symptoms of chilblains, which are painful red or purple lesions that typically appear in the winter on fingers or toes. The lesions are emerging as yet another symptom of infection with the new coronavirus. Chilblains are caused by inflammation in small blood vessels in reaction to cold or damp conditions, but they are usually common in the coldest winter months. Federal health officials do not include toe lesions in the list of coronavirus symptoms, but some dermatologists are pushing for a change, saying so-called Covid toe should be sufficient grounds for testing.
Yes, but make sure you keep six feet of distance between you and people who don’t live in your home. Even if you just hang out in a park, rather than go for a jog or a walk, getting some fresh air, and hopefully sunshine, is a good idea.Yes, but make sure you keep six feet of distance between you and people who don’t live in your home. Even if you just hang out in a park, rather than go for a jog or a walk, getting some fresh air, and hopefully sunshine, is a good idea.
Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.
The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.
Charity Navigator, which evaluates charities using a numbers-based system, has a running list of nonprofits working in communities affected by the outbreak. You can give blood through the American Red Cross, and World Central Kitchen has stepped in to distribute meals in major cities.Charity Navigator, which evaluates charities using a numbers-based system, has a running list of nonprofits working in communities affected by the outbreak. You can give blood through the American Red Cross, and World Central Kitchen has stepped in to distribute meals in major cities.
Whether those shifts include a customer who wants to buy an irony-laden prairie dress (Ms. Hay’s signature) or a very expensive unique floral dress (a trademark of Jonathan Cohen) at the same time and in the same place that she buys toilet paper and nail polish remains to be seen.Whether those shifts include a customer who wants to buy an irony-laden prairie dress (Ms. Hay’s signature) or a very expensive unique floral dress (a trademark of Jonathan Cohen) at the same time and in the same place that she buys toilet paper and nail polish remains to be seen.
After all, at the time of the Common Threads store opening, the three current top-selling items on Amazon, in clothing, shoes and jewelry, were a men’s T-shirt multipack, a Hanes men’s sweatshirt and a classic Croc. Even in the private label offering, the average price tag is only $32, according to Coresight.After all, at the time of the Common Threads store opening, the three current top-selling items on Amazon, in clothing, shoes and jewelry, were a men’s T-shirt multipack, a Hanes men’s sweatshirt and a classic Croc. Even in the private label offering, the average price tag is only $32, according to Coresight.
And many shoppers attracted to the idea of supporting small designers are attracted specifically by their de facto positioning as the anti-Amazon. Now that these brands are a part of the Amazon universe, it could affect how they are perceived, as could the recent controversies around Amazon’s treatment of its warehouse employees.And many shoppers attracted to the idea of supporting small designers are attracted specifically by their de facto positioning as the anti-Amazon. Now that these brands are a part of the Amazon universe, it could affect how they are perceived, as could the recent controversies around Amazon’s treatment of its warehouse employees.
That’s especially so because, even though the designers may control their own products and how they are photographed, the clothes are pictured on the shop “racks” in the classic Amazon square with the same typeface and price tag (albeit a much bigger number) that everybody who uses Amazon is conditioned to seeing when they buy, say, Clorox.That’s especially so because, even though the designers may control their own products and how they are photographed, the clothes are pictured on the shop “racks” in the classic Amazon square with the same typeface and price tag (albeit a much bigger number) that everybody who uses Amazon is conditioned to seeing when they buy, say, Clorox.
On the other hand, this could also be the beginning of high fashion’s slide down the slippery slope into Amazon’s waiting arms.On the other hand, this could also be the beginning of high fashion’s slide down the slippery slope into Amazon’s waiting arms.