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As the Restaurant Industry Struggles, the President Talks About Butter As the Restaurant Industry Struggles, the President Talks About Butter
(12 days later)
I once knocked on the back door of a cheesemonger in Brooklyn and waited outside for a lump of hard-to-find, extremely expensive, unmarked butter produced by Diane St. Clair at her tiny creamery in Orwell, Vt.I once knocked on the back door of a cheesemonger in Brooklyn and waited outside for a lump of hard-to-find, extremely expensive, unmarked butter produced by Diane St. Clair at her tiny creamery in Orwell, Vt.
It was delicious — sunshine-yellow and sweet — but the last thing I expected was that President Trump would discuss it in a meeting at the White House. On Monday, he did just that.It was delicious — sunshine-yellow and sweet — but the last thing I expected was that President Trump would discuss it in a meeting at the White House. On Monday, he did just that.
At the gathering, fast-food executives and owners of fine-dining restaurants sat down with the president, Vice President Mike Pence and other administration officials to discuss plans for reopening and the government’s relief programs for the industry.At the gathering, fast-food executives and owners of fine-dining restaurants sat down with the president, Vice President Mike Pence and other administration officials to discuss plans for reopening and the government’s relief programs for the industry.
But as restaurateurs tried to steer the conversation toward topics like Paycheck Protection Program loans, extending the window for spending relief money, public health and economic uncertainty, Mr. Trump repeatedly went off course.But as restaurateurs tried to steer the conversation toward topics like Paycheck Protection Program loans, extending the window for spending relief money, public health and economic uncertainty, Mr. Trump repeatedly went off course.
He claimed he’d already “saved” the restaurant business, and at one point asked the chef Thomas Keller about his favorite butter:He claimed he’d already “saved” the restaurant business, and at one point asked the chef Thomas Keller about his favorite butter:
THE PRESIDENT: What’s the difference in butter? Tell me. The difference in butter between what she sells you and what you would normally be able to buy. Out of curio- — I don’t want to —THE PRESIDENT: What’s the difference in butter? Tell me. The difference in butter between what she sells you and what you would normally be able to buy. Out of curio- — I don’t want to —
MR. KELLER: It’s — it is extraordinary because it is — it is truly a seasonal product, so the butter changes flavor and color depending on the season. So in the early —MR. KELLER: It’s — it is extraordinary because it is — it is truly a seasonal product, so the butter changes flavor and color depending on the season. So in the early —
THE VICE PRESIDENT: There’s no comparison.THE VICE PRESIDENT: There’s no comparison.
MR. KELLER: — in the spring, when they’re eating green, when they’re grazing on grass — green grass — the butter is —MR. KELLER: — in the spring, when they’re eating green, when they’re grazing on grass — green grass — the butter is —
THE PRESIDENT: That’s fantastic.THE PRESIDENT: That’s fantastic.
MR. KELLER: — a beautiful orange hue. And, of course, in the summertime, it turns lighter because they’re eating hay. So — and the flavors taste —MR. KELLER: — a beautiful orange hue. And, of course, in the summertime, it turns lighter because they’re eating hay. So — and the flavors taste —
THE PRESIDENT: Mike just said there is no comparison. He knows. (Laughter.)THE PRESIDENT: Mike just said there is no comparison. He knows. (Laughter.)
MR. KELLER: There’s a —MR. KELLER: There’s a —
THE PRESIDENT: He knows. (Inaudible) from Indiana. He knows.THE PRESIDENT: He knows. (Inaudible) from Indiana. He knows.
MR. KELLER: There’s a tremendous — a tremendous difference in the butter from —MR. KELLER: There’s a tremendous — a tremendous difference in the butter from —
THE PRESIDENT: No kidding. So, that’s good.THE PRESIDENT: No kidding. So, that’s good.
MR. KELLER: Oh, yeah. It’s extraordinary.MR. KELLER: Oh, yeah. It’s extraordinary.
For those watching the remarks, or reading the transcript published by the White House, it often seemed like a few men — and all 10 of the restaurant representatives at the table were men — tipsily chatting over their picket fences on a summer afternoon.For those watching the remarks, or reading the transcript published by the White House, it often seemed like a few men — and all 10 of the restaurant representatives at the table were men — tipsily chatting over their picket fences on a summer afternoon.
It did not seem like a conversation happening in the workplace of the president of the United States in the middle of a global pandemic. It did not seem as if many thousands of Americans had died, and millions were out of work, or as if one of the nation’s most important economic engines — the hospitality industry — was in a tailspin.It did not seem like a conversation happening in the workplace of the president of the United States in the middle of a global pandemic. It did not seem as if many thousands of Americans had died, and millions were out of work, or as if one of the nation’s most important economic engines — the hospitality industry — was in a tailspin.
Days later, I’m still bewildered. Mr. Trump’s response didn’t just minimize the most urgent concerns of millions of people, it tried to joke them away.Days later, I’m still bewildered. Mr. Trump’s response didn’t just minimize the most urgent concerns of millions of people, it tried to joke them away.
I’d expected little from the discussion. Small-restaurant owners and workers — among them the women, immigrants and undocumented people who work behind the scenes — weren’t represented at the table.I’d expected little from the discussion. Small-restaurant owners and workers — among them the women, immigrants and undocumented people who work behind the scenes — weren’t represented at the table.
Mr. Keller brought up diversity within the industry in a roundabout way, saying: “We don’t really care about your education. We’re not concerned about where you come from, your religious beliefs. We are open to everybody.”Mr. Keller brought up diversity within the industry in a roundabout way, saying: “We don’t really care about your education. We’re not concerned about where you come from, your religious beliefs. We are open to everybody.”
But this didn’t ring true. Restaurants may hire people of color, immigrants, undocumented people and Indigenous people, but they are generally relegated to low-paying kitchen jobs. And many of those workers struggle to secure benefits and move up in a system that depends on their cheap labor.But this didn’t ring true. Restaurants may hire people of color, immigrants, undocumented people and Indigenous people, but they are generally relegated to low-paying kitchen jobs. And many of those workers struggle to secure benefits and move up in a system that depends on their cheap labor.
The pandemic has only made the disparities within restaurants more obvious, and the need for changes more urgent.The pandemic has only made the disparities within restaurants more obvious, and the need for changes more urgent.
The meeting sputtered and went off on tangents — like the one about the butter — devolving again and again into empty superlatives and the smallest of small talk. Mr. Trump made several sweeping promises of “coming back stronger,” but shared no vision of how to accomplish that.The meeting sputtered and went off on tangents — like the one about the butter — devolving again and again into empty superlatives and the smallest of small talk. Mr. Trump made several sweeping promises of “coming back stronger,” but shared no vision of how to accomplish that.
By the end of the roughly 100-minute meeting, it was painfully apparent that there was no plan, no strategy, no blueprint in the works for the restaurant industry. It was up to restaurants to figure it all out for themselves.By the end of the roughly 100-minute meeting, it was painfully apparent that there was no plan, no strategy, no blueprint in the works for the restaurant industry. It was up to restaurants to figure it all out for themselves.
On Monday, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention also released its guidelines for the reopening of restaurants, after the White House shelved an earlier draft. Among other straightforward suggestions, the C.D.C. mentions masks, recommending that all restaurants reopening “require the use of cloth face coverings among all staff.”On Monday, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention also released its guidelines for the reopening of restaurants, after the White House shelved an earlier draft. Among other straightforward suggestions, the C.D.C. mentions masks, recommending that all restaurants reopening “require the use of cloth face coverings among all staff.”
Updated June 1, 2020
Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
More than 40 million people — the equivalent of 1 in 4 U.S. workers — have filed for unemployment benefits since the pandemic took hold. One in five who were working in February reported losing a job or being furloughed in March or the beginning of April, data from a Federal Reserve survey released on May 14 showed, and that pain was highly concentrated among low earners. Fully 39 percent of former workers living in a household earning $40,000 or less lost work, compared with 13 percent in those making more than $100,000, a Fed official said.
Yes, but make sure you keep six feet of distance between you and people who don’t live in your home. Even if you just hang out in a park, rather than go for a jog or a walk, getting some fresh air, and hopefully sunshine, is a good idea.
Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.
The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.
Charity Navigator, which evaluates charities using a numbers-based system, has a running list of nonprofits working in communities affected by the outbreak. You can give blood through the American Red Cross, and World Central Kitchen has stepped in to distribute meals in major cities.
This seems like a simple directive, but because the federal government and many states have failed to issue clear, consistent rules, restaurants are largely left to make up their own. Many are not allowing staff to wear masks, or making that protection optional. For now, it’s unclear how severe the consequences will be.This seems like a simple directive, but because the federal government and many states have failed to issue clear, consistent rules, restaurants are largely left to make up their own. Many are not allowing staff to wear masks, or making that protection optional. For now, it’s unclear how severe the consequences will be.
Mr. Keller brought up that butter, made in a small creamery with just a few cows, to try to illustrate the symbiotic relationship between restaurants and farms. It was an esoteric example, sure, but it made a crucial point: Restaurants are inextricably connected to fisheries, farms, florists and hundreds of other kinds of small businesses across the country.Mr. Keller brought up that butter, made in a small creamery with just a few cows, to try to illustrate the symbiotic relationship between restaurants and farms. It was an esoteric example, sure, but it made a crucial point: Restaurants are inextricably connected to fisheries, farms, florists and hundreds of other kinds of small businesses across the country.
Shuttered restaurants create an extended national network of suffering — unemployment, missed rent payments, lapsed health insurance.Shuttered restaurants create an extended national network of suffering — unemployment, missed rent payments, lapsed health insurance.
A thoughtful, coordinated, government-led initiative to protect restaurant workers, owners and diners, and control the spread of the coronavirus as businesses reopen, is essential. And it’s already disturbingly late.A thoughtful, coordinated, government-led initiative to protect restaurant workers, owners and diners, and control the spread of the coronavirus as businesses reopen, is essential. And it’s already disturbingly late.
What happens next affects millions of lives, but as the conversation wound down, the president seemed to turn from the story about the desperation of the restaurant business and its critical needs, and focus on another.What happens next affects millions of lives, but as the conversation wound down, the president seemed to turn from the story about the desperation of the restaurant business and its critical needs, and focus on another.
“Beautiful story,” he said, “with a woman with the eight cows.”“Beautiful story,” he said, “with a woman with the eight cows.”
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