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A Reporter’s Journey Across a Resuscitating, and Oddly Changed, Europe A Reporter’s Journey Across a Resuscitating, and Oddly Changed, Europe
(3 days later)
ROZVADOV BORDER CROSSING — “Can you please,” said the policeman at the Czech-German border, “step out of the car?”ROZVADOV BORDER CROSSING — “Can you please,” said the policeman at the Czech-German border, “step out of the car?”
He and a colleague rummaged through the vehicle, muttering to each other about the possibility of a secret compartment. By the time they finished 11 minutes later, they had strewn the contents of my suitcase, backpack and medical bag across the passenger seats.He and a colleague rummaged through the vehicle, muttering to each other about the possibility of a secret compartment. By the time they finished 11 minutes later, they had strewn the contents of my suitcase, backpack and medical bag across the passenger seats.
I was now free to enter Germany, they said.I was now free to enter Germany, they said.
It was only a mildly inconvenient episode, but nevertheless illustrative — an encapsulation of how haphazard and disorientating life in Europe has become since the start of the coronavirus pandemic.It was only a mildly inconvenient episode, but nevertheless illustrative — an encapsulation of how haphazard and disorientating life in Europe has become since the start of the coronavirus pandemic.
Three months ago, I could have driven from the Czech Republic into Germany without even noticing where exactly the border was, thanks to an agreement that allows free movement between most countries in the European Union.Three months ago, I could have driven from the Czech Republic into Germany without even noticing where exactly the border was, thanks to an agreement that allows free movement between most countries in the European Union.
Now, there’s a checkpoint on the Czech side, and another one just inside Germany. And initially, not even a letter from The New York Times, a diplomatic note from the British embassy (I’m a British citizen), a German press card and a certificate confirming I was virus-free were enough to persuade the Germans that I had legitimate reason to be traveling this way.Now, there’s a checkpoint on the Czech side, and another one just inside Germany. And initially, not even a letter from The New York Times, a diplomatic note from the British embassy (I’m a British citizen), a German press card and a certificate confirming I was virus-free were enough to persuade the Germans that I had legitimate reason to be traveling this way.
It’s exactly this kind of odd encounter that I’m trying to document as I drive through a Europe in the process of waking up after the lockdown.It’s exactly this kind of odd encounter that I’m trying to document as I drive through a Europe in the process of waking up after the lockdown.
Accompanied by Laetitia Vancon, a Times photojournalist, I am in the middle of what will likely end up as a 3,700-mile journey through as many as six countries in various stages of emerging from a virus-induced slumber.Accompanied by Laetitia Vancon, a Times photojournalist, I am in the middle of what will likely end up as a 3,700-mile journey through as many as six countries in various stages of emerging from a virus-induced slumber.
Over the next few days, we will be publishing our dispatches and photographs from this changed world — from an eccentric drive-in theater in Prague to a dystopically long line at a food bank in Geneva, one of the world’s richest cities.Over the next few days, we will be publishing our dispatches and photographs from this changed world — from an eccentric drive-in theater in Prague to a dystopically long line at a food bank in Geneva, one of the world’s richest cities.
So far, it has been an absurdly privileged experience, at a time when many people are still confined to their neighborhoods. It has also been predictably strange — a journey in which surreal moments seem normal, and normality seems surreal.So far, it has been an absurdly privileged experience, at a time when many people are still confined to their neighborhoods. It has also been predictably strange — a journey in which surreal moments seem normal, and normality seems surreal.
In Berlin, we spent a day at a newly reopened restaurant, something that wouldn’t have merited a mention three months ago. Now it seems remarkable.In Berlin, we spent a day at a newly reopened restaurant, something that wouldn’t have merited a mention three months ago. Now it seems remarkable.
It has been bewildering to witness different countries — and even different regions within individual countries — open up at different speeds and with different priorities.It has been bewildering to witness different countries — and even different regions within individual countries — open up at different speeds and with different priorities.
That day in Berlin, diners could already eat inside restaurants. Yet simultaneously in Munich, they could still only sit at tables outside.That day in Berlin, diners could already eat inside restaurants. Yet simultaneously in Munich, they could still only sit at tables outside.
In Switzerland, most people didn’t seem to be wearing masks in the street. But a day later in the Czech Republic, it was still the law to wear a mask anywhere outside the house.In Switzerland, most people didn’t seem to be wearing masks in the street. But a day later in the Czech Republic, it was still the law to wear a mask anywhere outside the house.
Then the next morning, we emerged into the sunlight to see people’s faces again: The law had changed overnight.Then the next morning, we emerged into the sunlight to see people’s faces again: The law had changed overnight.
The logistics of travel have proved infinitely more challenging than usual.The logistics of travel have proved infinitely more challenging than usual.
Most hotels were closed. Those that remained open were eerily empty.In Prague, I paid for a hotel in advance — but on arrival, it turned out to have shut weeks ago. The lights were off and a sign on the door advised us to contact another hotel in the same chain.Most hotels were closed. Those that remained open were eerily empty.In Prague, I paid for a hotel in advance — but on arrival, it turned out to have shut weeks ago. The lights were off and a sign on the door advised us to contact another hotel in the same chain.
When traveling through Europe for work last year, I sometimes flew overseas at a few hours’ notice. But this journey took weeks to organize, and for safety reasons we decided to travel by car instead of plane. It would minimize our exposure to public spaces, and other people’s exposure to us.When traveling through Europe for work last year, I sometimes flew overseas at a few hours’ notice. But this journey took weeks to organize, and for safety reasons we decided to travel by car instead of plane. It would minimize our exposure to public spaces, and other people’s exposure to us.
The journey also required liaising with several national governments to work out whether they would allow journalists to enter their territory, and if so, under what conditions.The journey also required liaising with several national governments to work out whether they would allow journalists to enter their territory, and if so, under what conditions.
It was a flat “no” from the Polish border guard. But the Belgian interior ministry said we merely needed a press card and a blue sign we could download from its website, print out and place behind the windshield.It was a flat “no” from the Polish border guard. But the Belgian interior ministry said we merely needed a press card and a blue sign we could download from its website, print out and place behind the windshield.
The Danes wanted a letter from my editors. The Swiss only needed to know our dates of travel, before providing a laissez-passer for us to present on the border. The authorities in Germany, where I live, said I could leave the country for only 48 hours at a time, unless I wanted to spend two weeks in quarantine on my return.The Danes wanted a letter from my editors. The Swiss only needed to know our dates of travel, before providing a laissez-passer for us to present on the border. The authorities in Germany, where I live, said I could leave the country for only 48 hours at a time, unless I wanted to spend two weeks in quarantine on my return.
Updated June 5, 2020Updated June 5, 2020
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.
The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.
Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission.Mass protests against police brutality that have brought thousands of people onto the streets in cities across America are raising the specter of new coronavirus outbreaks, prompting political leaders, physicians and public health experts to warn that the crowds could cause a surge in cases. While many political leaders affirmed the right of protesters to express themselves, they urged the demonstrators to wear face masks and maintain social distancing, both to protect themselves and to prevent further community spread of the virus. Some infectious disease experts were reassured by the fact that the protests were held outdoors, saying the open air settings could mitigate the risk of transmission.
Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.Exercise researchers and physicians have some blunt advice for those of us aiming to return to regular exercise now: Start slowly and then rev up your workouts, also slowly. American adults tended to be about 12 percent less active after the stay-at-home mandates began in March than they were in January. But there are steps you can take to ease your way back into regular exercise safely. First, “start at no more than 50 percent of the exercise you were doing before Covid,” says Dr. Monica Rho, the chief of musculoskeletal medicine at the Shirley Ryan AbilityLab in Chicago. Thread in some preparatory squats, too, she advises. “When you haven’t been exercising, you lose muscle mass.” Expect some muscle twinges after these preliminary, post-lockdown sessions, especially a day or two later. But sudden or increasing pain during exercise is a clarion call to stop and return home.
States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.States are reopening bit by bit. This means that more public spaces are available for use and more and more businesses are being allowed to open again. The federal government is largely leaving the decision up to states, and some state leaders are leaving the decision up to local authorities. Even if you aren’t being told to stay at home, it’s still a good idea to limit trips outside and your interaction with other people.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.Taking one’s temperature to look for signs of fever is not as easy as it sounds, as “normal” temperature numbers can vary, but generally, keep an eye out for a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. If you don’t have a thermometer (they can be pricey these days), there are other ways to figure out if you have a fever, or are at risk of Covid-19 complications.
The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.The C.D.C. has recommended that all Americans wear cloth masks if they go out in public. This is a shift in federal guidance reflecting new concerns that the coronavirus is being spread by infected people who have no symptoms. Until now, the C.D.C., like the W.H.O., has advised that ordinary people don’t need to wear masks unless they are sick and coughing. Part of the reason was to preserve medical-grade masks for health care workers who desperately need them at a time when they are in continuously short supply. Masks don’t replace hand washing and social distancing.
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.If you’re sick and you think you’ve been exposed to the new coronavirus, the C.D.C. recommends that you call your healthcare provider and explain your symptoms and fears. They will decide if you need to be tested. Keep in mind that there’s a chance — because of a lack of testing kits or because you’re asymptomatic, for instance — you won’t be able to get tested.
Sometimes, the officials weren’t even sure what to tell us.Sometimes, the officials weren’t even sure what to tell us.
The Czechs initially wanted just a letter from The Times, and a diplomatic note from our respective embassies in Prague. Then, days before we traveled, the rules changed.The Czechs initially wanted just a letter from The Times, and a diplomatic note from our respective embassies in Prague. Then, days before we traveled, the rules changed.
To enter the Czech Republic, we now also needed an invitation from a Czech company (the drive-in theater eventually provided one) — and, trickiest of all, a virus test that had been completed within four days of crossing the border.To enter the Czech Republic, we now also needed an invitation from a Czech company (the drive-in theater eventually provided one) — and, trickiest of all, a virus test that had been completed within four days of crossing the border.
That was challenging because the results can take three working days to process, whereas we had only two. By the time the results arrived, we were already in Switzerland, forcing the clinic to send them, slightly grudgingly, by email.That was challenging because the results can take three working days to process, whereas we had only two. By the time the results arrived, we were already in Switzerland, forcing the clinic to send them, slightly grudgingly, by email.
After all that, the Czech police barely glanced at the results before waving me onward at the border.After all that, the Czech police barely glanced at the results before waving me onward at the border.
To my surprise, it was the German police on the Czech border who were the most suspicious.To my surprise, it was the German police on the Czech border who were the most suspicious.
Crossing to and from Switzerland, the German border guards hadn’t even pulled me over. But now their colleagues several hundred miles to the east couldn’t fathom why I was traveling in this way and at this time.They pressed me about certain stamps in my passport. Eerily, they also asked about an old passport I lost years ago in Berlin, which still seemed to be logged on their database.Crossing to and from Switzerland, the German border guards hadn’t even pulled me over. But now their colleagues several hundred miles to the east couldn’t fathom why I was traveling in this way and at this time.They pressed me about certain stamps in my passport. Eerily, they also asked about an old passport I lost years ago in Berlin, which still seemed to be logged on their database.
“Do you have anything in the car like weapons, knives?” one officer said.“Do you have anything in the car like weapons, knives?” one officer said.
“Or drugs?” he added. “Marijuana?”“Or drugs?” he added. “Marijuana?”
I have spent much of my career investigating smugglers. But in this world turned upside down, the policeman seemed to think I might be one myself.I have spent much of my career investigating smugglers. But in this world turned upside down, the policeman seemed to think I might be one myself.