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With Most Weddings Still on Hold, Italian Designers Struggle With Most Weddings Still on Hold, Italian Designers Struggle
(1 day later)
At 7 a.m. on April 30, Pietro Demita and Silvana Persano, the owners of Diamond Couture, which specializes in wedding gowns, were already busy in their atelier in Veglie, Italy.At 7 a.m. on April 30, Pietro Demita and Silvana Persano, the owners of Diamond Couture, which specializes in wedding gowns, were already busy in their atelier in Veglie, Italy.
The business partners had chosen nine gowns from their latest collection, hung them on a rack and dragged them in front of their warehouse. Scissors in hand, Mr. Demita and Ms. Persano, each wearing face masks, cut through corsages of white lace and skirts of tulle, thrusting the shreds into a large yellow and blue bin. Mr. Demita set the pile on fire with a lighter.The business partners had chosen nine gowns from their latest collection, hung them on a rack and dragged them in front of their warehouse. Scissors in hand, Mr. Demita and Ms. Persano, each wearing face masks, cut through corsages of white lace and skirts of tulle, thrusting the shreds into a large yellow and blue bin. Mr. Demita set the pile on fire with a lighter.
The burning was filmed by a friend and used to address “people in power,” he said, about the plight of the country’s wedding industry.The burning was filmed by a friend and used to address “people in power,” he said, about the plight of the country’s wedding industry.
According to the Italian National Institute of Statistics, 190,000 to 195,000 weddings are registered every year in Italy. When these are celebrated with a party, they sustain an industry worth an estimated 40 billion euros ($44 billion) employing 83,000 companies. Additionally, 540 million euros ($593 million) are generated by about 10,000 wedding celebrations organized by foreigners in Italy, who often purchase their wedding dresses in the country.According to the Italian National Institute of Statistics, 190,000 to 195,000 weddings are registered every year in Italy. When these are celebrated with a party, they sustain an industry worth an estimated 40 billion euros ($44 billion) employing 83,000 companies. Additionally, 540 million euros ($593 million) are generated by about 10,000 wedding celebrations organized by foreigners in Italy, who often purchase their wedding dresses in the country.
“If my dreams have to be turned into ashes, I prefer doing it myself,” Mr. Demita said.“If my dreams have to be turned into ashes, I prefer doing it myself,” Mr. Demita said.
Diamond Couture presented its latest collection in April 2019 at Sì Sposaitalia Collezioni, an international trade show in Milan for bridal and formal wear. The event showed 220 bridal collections in 2019. Orders for gowns were taken during the buying appointments at the fair and delivered between September and October. The company always agreed to start crafting the ordered dresses without a deposit. The payments would be sent in March of the following year.Diamond Couture presented its latest collection in April 2019 at Sì Sposaitalia Collezioni, an international trade show in Milan for bridal and formal wear. The event showed 220 bridal collections in 2019. Orders for gowns were taken during the buying appointments at the fair and delivered between September and October. The company always agreed to start crafting the ordered dresses without a deposit. The payments would be sent in March of the following year.
Mr. Demita’s and Ms. Persano’s annual production grew from 49 gowns to more than 1,000 within 13 years.Mr. Demita’s and Ms. Persano’s annual production grew from 49 gowns to more than 1,000 within 13 years.
But on March 9, the Italian government announced stringent quarantine measures. Eighty percent of the weddings for which Diamond Couture had orders for gowns were postponed with the rest being canceled. Mr. Demita and Ms. Persano faced empty cash registers.But on March 9, the Italian government announced stringent quarantine measures. Eighty percent of the weddings for which Diamond Couture had orders for gowns were postponed with the rest being canceled. Mr. Demita and Ms. Persano faced empty cash registers.
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Italy was the first Western country to impose a national lockdown, on March 4, which suspended all businesses. With 33,072 Covid-19-related deaths as of May 27, Italy has the third-highest figure, only ranking behind the United Kingdom (37,460) and the United States (101,392).Italy was the first Western country to impose a national lockdown, on March 4, which suspended all businesses. With 33,072 Covid-19-related deaths as of May 27, Italy has the third-highest figure, only ranking behind the United Kingdom (37,460) and the United States (101,392).
Restrictions in Italy were lifted May 18, but social-distance measures are still being enforced throughout the summer, pushing most weddings planned during the sought-after period from April through September to the fall or next year.Restrictions in Italy were lifted May 18, but social-distance measures are still being enforced throughout the summer, pushing most weddings planned during the sought-after period from April through September to the fall or next year.
“It is a climate that certainly does not invite to celebrate,” Michela Gombacci, a business consultant, said about her postponed May wedding on the Italian island of Capri with her American fiancé, Stefano Minoli. “We thought it would have been almost out of place.”“It is a climate that certainly does not invite to celebrate,” Michela Gombacci, a business consultant, said about her postponed May wedding on the Italian island of Capri with her American fiancé, Stefano Minoli. “We thought it would have been almost out of place.”
The practice of delayed payments is common among small businesses in Italy, and it is especially widespread in the wedding industry as it allows retailers to collect the payments for the gown in installments.The practice of delayed payments is common among small businesses in Italy, and it is especially widespread in the wedding industry as it allows retailers to collect the payments for the gown in installments.
Larger companies and small outfits operating in the higher-end segment try to steer clear of it. Nicole Spose by Nicole Cavallo has asked brides to pay off dresses by the date on which the wedding was originally planned, not the newly scheduled date in the future. “The majority understands the situation and has agreed,” Ms. Cavallo said in a phone interview. But, she noted, “some aren’t that happy about it.”Larger companies and small outfits operating in the higher-end segment try to steer clear of it. Nicole Spose by Nicole Cavallo has asked brides to pay off dresses by the date on which the wedding was originally planned, not the newly scheduled date in the future. “The majority understands the situation and has agreed,” Ms. Cavallo said in a phone interview. But, she noted, “some aren’t that happy about it.”
The payments are necessary, Ms. Cavallo said, to cover the cost of keeping gowns in her atelier for longer than originally planned.The payments are necessary, Ms. Cavallo said, to cover the cost of keeping gowns in her atelier for longer than originally planned.
Still, shops are without their usual orders and deposit money. To make up for the canceled fashion show in April, Ms. Cavallo offered future brides online consultations to jump-start new orders and deposits.Still, shops are without their usual orders and deposit money. To make up for the canceled fashion show in April, Ms. Cavallo offered future brides online consultations to jump-start new orders and deposits.
A similar service will be rolled out by Antonio Riva in Milan at the beginning of June. Mr. Riva, who starts producing only upon receipt of a deposit and delivers only when gowns are paid in full, hopes to be able to deliver his gowns by October, as usual. “We are in a lucky position because everything is made in Italy and our business partners understand our needs,” he said.A similar service will be rolled out by Antonio Riva in Milan at the beginning of June. Mr. Riva, who starts producing only upon receipt of a deposit and delivers only when gowns are paid in full, hopes to be able to deliver his gowns by October, as usual. “We are in a lucky position because everything is made in Italy and our business partners understand our needs,” he said.
Larger losses were suffered by companies like Carlo Pignatelli in Turin, Italy, which specializes in formal attire for men. “While brides start looking for a gown nine to six months before the event, men start only three to two months before,” said Francesco Pignatelli, the creative director of the house. His company received all payments for its 2019 bridal dress collection in the fall of the same year. However, since 80 percent of the company’s total sales is generated by men’s suits, which typically sell between February and April, Mr. Pignatelli expects a 50 percent drop in the companies’ annual revenue.Larger losses were suffered by companies like Carlo Pignatelli in Turin, Italy, which specializes in formal attire for men. “While brides start looking for a gown nine to six months before the event, men start only three to two months before,” said Francesco Pignatelli, the creative director of the house. His company received all payments for its 2019 bridal dress collection in the fall of the same year. However, since 80 percent of the company’s total sales is generated by men’s suits, which typically sell between February and April, Mr. Pignatelli expects a 50 percent drop in the companies’ annual revenue.
Updated June 30, 2020
Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.
Scientists around the country have tried to identify everyday materials that do a good job of filtering microscopic particles. In recent tests, HEPA furnace filters scored high, as did vacuum cleaner bags, fabric similar to flannel pajamas and those of 600-count pillowcases. Other materials tested included layered coffee filters and scarves and bandannas. These scored lower, but still captured a small percentage of particles.
A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico.
The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth.
The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave.
So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.
Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.
A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.
The unemployment rate fell to 13.3 percent in May, the Labor Department said on June 5, an unexpected improvement in the nation’s job market as hiring rebounded faster than economists expected. Economists had forecast the unemployment rate to increase to as much as 20 percent, after it hit 14.7 percent in April, which was the highest since the government began keeping official statistics after World War II. But the unemployment rate dipped instead, with employers adding 2.5 million jobs, after more than 20 million jobs were lost in April.
If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)
If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.
To date, no company in Italy has received the government’s monetary aid to provide for furloughs. Businesses have had, instead, to advance salaries for about two months, putting their finances under further strain.To date, no company in Italy has received the government’s monetary aid to provide for furloughs. Businesses have had, instead, to advance salaries for about two months, putting their finances under further strain.
Wedding gown makers remain hopeful that they will recover in 2021; they expect to set a record in the production of gowns after social restrictions are lifted.Wedding gown makers remain hopeful that they will recover in 2021; they expect to set a record in the production of gowns after social restrictions are lifted.
Yet, it seems inevitable that smaller businesses will suffer.Yet, it seems inevitable that smaller businesses will suffer.
“The year 2020 is compromised,” said Serena Ranieri, the president of Feder Matrimoni ed Eventi Privati, a group that represents businesses involved in weddings and private events. “It is a collapse that the sector is unable to absorb and which will cause closures and bankruptcies, with consequent job losses and a devastating impact also for the companies in the supply chain which miss most of the customers.”“The year 2020 is compromised,” said Serena Ranieri, the president of Feder Matrimoni ed Eventi Privati, a group that represents businesses involved in weddings and private events. “It is a collapse that the sector is unable to absorb and which will cause closures and bankruptcies, with consequent job losses and a devastating impact also for the companies in the supply chain which miss most of the customers.”
Mr. Demita said he and Ms. Persano are using their savings to get by, “but sooner or later, the water in the well runs out.”Mr. Demita said he and Ms. Persano are using their savings to get by, “but sooner or later, the water in the well runs out.”
In the meantime, in Milan, Emanuele Guido, the director of Sì Sposaitalia Collezioni, is working on the next edition of the fair, which has been postponed from April until September. “It is an experiment,” Mr. Guido said of how many exhibitors will actually show up in the month when they usually deliver gowns.In the meantime, in Milan, Emanuele Guido, the director of Sì Sposaitalia Collezioni, is working on the next edition of the fair, which has been postponed from April until September. “It is an experiment,” Mr. Guido said of how many exhibitors will actually show up in the month when they usually deliver gowns.
Will Diamond Couture attend? Mr. Demita sighed. “Frankly, I do not know.”Will Diamond Couture attend? Mr. Demita sighed. “Frankly, I do not know.”
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